JTest-EZ Progress report

[JTest]

Looking good Jeff.

I'm just about to start on my spar.

 

T Mann

G'day TMann

 

Thanks, I am sorry for the slow reply. I have been moving hangers and setting up the shop. I missed this post until last weekend, but didn't have time to post and reply. I wanted the pics up for comments, but don't have any (Yet).

 

I lost my tech advisor due to a move. He moved out of town and I moved hangers....

 

I am now building in a vacuum, the feedback here is about all the outside help I get. If you see anything please post to me. I need the advise more than ever now.

 

Oh. how did your spar turn out? Mine is done and is around 54 lbs.

 

Thanks again.

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

Here are some pictures of the spar that I finished back in Mid-July. It seems I didn't post them due to the hanger move...

 

Sorry they are a little out of sequence. The spar is around 54 lbs. I used the plans layup with the extra glass.... I figured I could lose the extra weight myself and wanted the spar to be as strong as possible.....

 

The SPAM CAN in the background is my 1956 Cessna. If you look behind the Cessna you will see my foam wings.

 

Hope you enjoy. I welcome any comments.

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

Here is the Shear Web layup on the Canard I completed on Sunday, but didn't get time to post.

 

I marked 1/2" from the "Joggle" and put some Duct Tape to keep the epoxy from getting where it shouldn't. I didn't see this anywhere, but gravity seems to cause my epoxy to flow. I work by myself (most of the time) with limited assistance so I knew I would be busy just putting on the glass...

 

It wasn't until after I finished this layup that I saw some advise to measure and trim all the Uni and Bid for the layup before wetting. I followed the plans, but wish I had trimmed before.... Oh well, live and learn.....

 

If you look in the background you will see the old refrig that I use to keep my epoxy pump and epoxy warm when I am not building. I use a 25 Watt bulb and it keeps the space around 82 F. I tried a 40 W bulb and it was around 100 F. Your milage may be different.... Oh, I drilled the back and put the light in at the bottom in the back and then used insulation foam to seal the drill hole. I put all my chemicals in it and keep them warm. I don't need to run the room heaters during the week when I am in the office and not building.

 

Hope you enjoy. I welcome constructive comments.

 

Jeff

[steve]

G'day

 

Here is the Shear Web layup on the Canard I completed on Sunday, but didn't get time to post.

 

I marked 1/2" from the "Joggle" and put some Duct Tape to keep the epoxy from getting where it shouldn't. I didn't see this anywhere, but gravity seems to cause my epoxy to flow. I work by myself (most of the time) with limited assistance so I knew I would be busy just putting on the glass...

 

It wasn't until after I finished this layup that I saw some advise to measure and trim all the Uni and Bid for the layup before wetting. I followed the plans, but wish I had trimmed before.... Oh well, live and learn.....

 

If you look in the background you will see the old refrig that I use to keep my epoxy pump and epoxy warm when I am not building. I use a 25 Watt bulb and it keeps the space around 82 F. I tried a 40 W bulb and it was around 100 F. Your milage may be different.... Oh, I drilled the back and put the light in at the bottom in the back and then used insulation foam to seal the drill hole. I put all my chemicals in it and keep them warm. I don't need to run the room heaters during the week when I am in the office and not building.

 

Hope you enjoy. I welcome constructive comments.

 

Jeff

did you cut the peel-ply to size?, and i over wet to remove the dry spots that get in the peel (it looks better when i remove it).

[JTest]

G'day Steve

 

Thanks for the reply, I used 4" Peel Ply on the top (front) and 2" Peel Ply on the sides. I then apply some epoxy to make sure it is wet all over. So I guess yes I do wet the Peel Ply.

 

I have had good success with my method in the past.

 

I removed the Duct tape today and only had to do some light trim with th dremmel. On the positive side the 1/2 inch above the joggle is very clean. It worked well.

 

I also drilled the holes and mounted the tab.

 

I hope to get some more work completed over the next weekend.

 

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

I am posting a couple of pictures of the bottom of the canard. I managed to get the nav antenna built and installed (sorry no pictures). I used two strips of copper foil cut 22.8" and then soldered some RG-400 (50 ohm) to the two strips. I installed the antenna on the lower left canard bottom.

 

I used a female BNC (RG-58) connector and installed the connector to provide easy access and connect/disconnect for canard removal/maintenance. I used a crimp lug to connect the RG-400 shield and a large 2" shim washer to mount to the foam. I cut a channel for the cable and I used micro to cover the install.

 

I then covered with Uni and BID per plans. The pictures still have the 4" peel ply on the lower skin.

 

I welcome any constructive comments or questions.

 

Thanks;

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

Spent the day trimming the canard bottom and getting the top ready for the spar and skin. I have posted a couple of pictures of the canard top waiting the cutouts install and glassing.

 

I hope next weekend to get the spar and skin on the top side of the canard.

 

I welcome comments.

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

Had a few hours over Thanksgiving day to get some work done on the canard top. I have attached a couple of pictures of the 1" foam and cutouts I make. I used 4 6"X10" 1/4" foam and micro them together and then put into a large ziplock bag. I then placed a 1/4" piece of plywood and weights on top and let cure overnight. I used a some scrap foam to make a template for the foam 8 plugs that are placed into the cutouts.

 

I welcome constructive comments. Hope you had a great turkey day!

 

Enjoy!

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

Today is Black Friday 2008, I didn't do any shopping but did get the Glideslope antenna, foam cutouts, and canard top spar cap installed.

 

I have attached some pictures of the antenna install. I made the copper foil dipole antenna and routed the RG400 cable in front of the canard shearweb.

 

I also installed duct tape around the layup areas to protect the foam during the layup. I removed the tape after the layup was completed.

 

I welcome constructive comments.

 

Jeff

[TMann]

Another day closer, Jeff.

Looking good.

[JTest]

Another day closer, Jeff.

Looking good.

G'day TMann

 

Thanks! I didn't plan to get that much done. I usually over estimate what can be done. I have started a new policy not to start a layup after 3:00 PM. The other day I got back from the hanger at 7:00 PM for dinner because I started a layup after 3:30 PM. My wife was not impressed.

 

I use the time to prep for the next day or clean-up the work area. It seems there are an endless number of 45 minute jobs....

 

What has been your progress on the basement shop and the Main Spar?

 

I have so many parts in the hanger I will need to start sticking them together soon.

 

Thanks again;

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

I want to thank my friend Bernie for his assistance with the upper skin of the canard layup. He got to mix epoxy and helped get the glass cloth on the foam. He was a big help. Thanks again, Bernie! I'm sorry the lunch wasn't that good maybe next time.

 

Oh, we managed to get about 4 hours of work on the canard. We managed to install the two layers of UNI, one layer of BID, the last layer of UNI, and peel ply the canard. We then went for a plane flight for lunch.

 

A GREAT day!

 

I have attached two pictures of the canard as it sits curing in the hanger. I will do the finish work on Sunday.

 

I welcome constructive comments or questions.

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

Here are some pictures of the spar that I finished back in Mid-July. It seems I didn't post them due to the hanger move...

 

Sorry they are a little out of sequence. The spar is around 54 lbs. I used the plans layup with the extra glass.... I figured I could lose the extra weight myself and wanted the spar to be as strong as possible.....

 

The SPAM CAN in the background is my 1956 Cessna. If you look behind the Cessna you will see my foam wings.

 

Hope you enjoy. I welcome any comments.

 

Jeff

G'day all

 

It was pointed out to me that in the first picture I have made a mistake. Please note the spar ends have the 2 1/4 " diameter holes cut in them called out in step 21 of chapter 14. Well after I reviewed the plans I see that these holes should be cut from the bottom of the spar at B.L. 53.5 (just like the Bloody plans instructs). I mounted and Sc#*%d the pooch on this one. Page 14-4 of the plans shows B.L. 53.5 between the aluminum inserts.

 

I plan to correct this bloody stupid mistake by glassing some extra foam and floxing into the spar endcaps. This should enclose the spar endcaps and I will then cut the 2 1/4" diameter holes in the bottom as instructed in step 12 of the plans.

 

I welcome any other ideas or opinions. It seems others have cut access holes in the endcaps (I have been told the Cozzzy girls did on their cozy to mount landing gear). Any ideas would be some help.

 

Thanks in advance for any constructive ideas.

 

Jeff

[TMann]

.....In retrospect........ If I was to build another CS Spar, I would go the extra 10% with the jig and make it a mold and do all of my layups from the outside in. Exterior dimensions would end up perfect. You could vacuum bag the works right up to closure. There would be no discrepancies with the thickness of the spar cap.......and on....and on

[JTest]

G'day

 

Yesterday, I had a couple of hours to Alodine the Elevator Tubes. I went to the hardware store and purchased two 10' PVC electrical conduit tubes (cheaper than 4' plumbing PVC). Be sure to measure the inside diameter of one of the PVC tubes is about 1 1/2" diameter. The second 10' PVC tube should have an outside diameter of 1 1/4".

 

Cut the PVC tubes into two 4' lengths. I PVC glued a PVC end cap on one end and cut the tube just over 4' long. Cut a second 4' tube and also PVC glue an encap on it. (See Picture) The second tube will be used to rinse.

 

Prep the aluminum tubes by rubbing them inside and out with steel wool.

 

Then using Dawn dish soap and water to wash the tubes. Rinse with distilled water. Dry the Aluminum elevator tubes. Empty the dish soap (I use this to clean my windows and aircraft windshild). Leave the Rinse (you will use it later)

 

I put the 80" aluminum tube into the alodine and moved the aluminum up and down for about 3 minutes. (See picture) Rinse in the second tube and then treat the opposite side and rinse. Let dry. Repeat for the 64" tube. Drain the Alodine into a plastic container (a funnel is useful here). Drain the rinse out also.

 

The second tube should have the outside diameter of 1 1/4". This will be the sanding tube. I saw this idea on a Cozy builder website. I modified it some. I mixed some 5 minute epoxy and glued some 50 grit sand paper to the outside of the second tube. I then placed the tube inside the other tube to hold for the epoxy dry. I then taped the edges with duct tape. I ran the tube inside the elevator foam cores to sand them so the aluminum tubes would fit. (see picture)

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

Today I managed to epoxy the elevator foam cores to the elevator tubes. I clamped the tubes to steel beams covered with plastic. I then made some wed micro and costed inside the foam cores. I then attached the foam cores to the alodined elevator tubes. I have attached a couple of pictures.

 

Jeff

[TMann]

G'day

 

Yesterday, I had a couple of hours to Alodine the Elevator Tubes. I went to the hardware store and purchased two 10' PVC electrical ..........

I found a faster way to get the same effect ........... I called the Cozy Girrrls. It only took about 10 minutes.

 

It looks like you're making great progress Jeff. I've been plotting out my long nose configuration in CAD. I had to drag out my plotter and get that setup but now I have my NG30 cut out as well as the FS 0.0 bulkhead.

 

I'll be starting my elevators this coming week as well.

 

You're keeping me motivated! Hopefully we can show off our birds at Rough River 2009!

[mfryer]

G'day

 

Today I managed to epoxy the elevator foam cores to the elevator tubes. I clamped the tubes to steel beams covered with plastic. I then made some wed micro and costed inside the foam cores. I then attached the foam cores to the alodined elevator tubes. I have attached a couple of pictures.

 

Jeff

Perhaps it is my eyes, or perhaps the photo. I don't see the insert cutouts in the torque tubes. Are you building a GU canard or Roncz?

[JTest]

Perhaps it is my eyes, or perhaps the photo. I don't see the insert cutouts in the torque tubes. Are you building a GU canard or Roncz?

G'day mfryer

 

I am building a Roncz canard. You are correct the cutouts are not in the tubes. The plans don't call for the cut outs to be cut into the tube until after the skins are layed up.

 

Jeff

[JTest]

G'day

 

I managed to get the top skins layup applied today. I have attached a couple of pictures.

 

I welcome constructive comments.

 

Jeff

[rickh]

I welcome constructive comments.

 

Jeff

STOP!

 

Speaking out of my blow-hole, it looks like your plans say the elevators are connected together with a straight tube... everything is inline.

 

You'd be wise to look at how the Cozy-IV elevators are constructed. I think this is an approved mod for LE's too. There's an offset in the tube, right where it passes through the fuse sidewalls. Advantage is there is almost no air blowing inside from around the torque tube.

 

As far as the elevator hinge inserts installed later.... that don't seam rite ether.

 

But I'm building a Cozy, so...

 

Rick

[mfryer]

G'day mfryer

 

I am building a Roncz canard. You are correct the cutouts are not in the tubes. The plans don't call for the cut outs to be cut into the tube until after the skins are layed up.

 

Jeff

The plans call for the tubes to me machined and the NC-2 inserts should be riveted in place. These steps are described at the very beginning of the elevators section of the Roncz canard plans. With the elevators all glassed up, how do you intend to rivet the NC-2 inserts?

 

Perhaps someone might be able to find a way to machine and install the inserts with the foam and glass inplace, however I fear you may have to do them over again.

[Lynn Erickson]

G'day mfryer

 

I am building a Roncz canard. You are correct the cutouts are not in the tubes. The plans don't call for the cut outs to be cut into the tube until after the skins are layed up.

 

Jeff

I believe they are talking about the hinge cutouts about 1/4" wide that are cut after the skin is applied. the cutouts in the aluminum tube about 3/4" wide are to install the pivot inserts and need to be done before the tube is installed into the elevator. hinge points need to be aligned with the angle fixtures to locate the hinge point correctly in the elevator. if you did not cut the slots in the aluminum tube and rivet in the inserts and you would remember that job, check the plans again.

[JTest]

STOP!

 

Speaking out of my blow-hole, it looks like your plans say the elevators ...

Rick

 

G'day all OPEN EZ Builders

 

First I want to thank Rick and several other folks in this forum. You may have just saved my arse! I managed to do a real OMG! It seems I used the TERF CD LONGEZ Chapter 10 & 11 to build my Roncz Canard and elevator. PLEASE NOTE all OPEN EZ Builders to use the Roncz Canard instructions posted in another .PDF on the TERF CD. If you don't you just may DIE.

 

Please take a few minutes and look at the last two months postings.... They will need to be redone. I do not trust my life with them. I think the canard is good, but not willing to die if it isn't.

 

Oh, I do think we need to rewrite Chapters 10 & 11 and get them posted in the OPEN EZ project. I feel kind of stupid, but I hope somebody else doesn't make this mistake.

 

Thanks again for the folks that pointed out that my bacon was hanging out. Now I will need to pony up the money to make another canard.

 

This is one big do over..... I guess it is cheap compared to cashing in the chips early.

 

Oh, I have ordered the Parts from the Cozy Girrls. You were right again TMann. I will cut the foam cores this weekend.

 

Jeff

[rickh]

... Oh, I do think we need to rewrite Chapters 10 & 11 and get them posted in the OPEN EZ project.

My data may be old, but the Open-EZ drawings I have appear to be the GU canard. I grabbed them in Oct of 2006, from a file named: Open-EZDrawingsRev5.zip". The files are of the form: "Open-EZ r5 a"x".tif" (or pdf, depending).

 

Nice save though, recreating the canard (and elevators) is relatively minor $ in the grand scheme of things.

 

Rick