mfryer

I just don't get the point when I see these sites with rendered graphics of some "cool" looking airplane. I would be more convinced with some real data, or at least a flying scale model. Some proof that some work and study is behind the promisess before asking others to spend there time and $$$ to explore the idea.

My first experience with composite (fiberglass and epoxy) was also with a Kayak I completed about 4 years ago. One can spot a couple shots of it on my project website. http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2007-09-02T22%3A51%3A00-07%3A00&max-results=7

Thanks for the advise. You now have made this step far more involved than I was anticipating. However I will forgive you as you probably have saved some future headaches.

I do not see anything in the plans about camber. If I spread the bow apart untill the flats are vertical and set the axles to level, will not the natural angle of the flat still determine the camber? (I suppose we are ensuring here that they are both equal.) Is all this work done with the bow installed on the fuse?

Oh, I am in no hurry to start drilling anything, hence my questions. I am still a little unclear though. My confusion here is that I am bolting flat axle and flat aluminum plates to an oval shaped strut. Should I sand the strut to flat, or build up more glass plys. Perhaps a little of both? (I think this is what this plans are trying to indicate). Am I just over thinking this a little? It seems that every time I get to a scary step, its really not that bad, rather EZ in fact. Still, I prefer to use some caution and get some advise.

I am about ready to install the axles and I am getting nervous. The plans are not very detailed about this step and I want to make sure I get this right the first time. That primary concern I have is the shape of the main gear strut where the axles attach. It is still somewhat airfoil shaped and I do not feel the 3 plys of bid will not even come close to producing a flat surface for the aluminum plate and axle to mate to. Should I sand the area flat? Should I build with glass layups untill I have more glass to ensure a flat surface? How do I keep the aluminium plate axle and glass from moving during cure (I know that the clamps are there for that, but perhaps there is a more secure method?). One thought I had was to go ahead and pre drill the bolt holes. I have a template that I can use. My thought was that I could layup the glass plys then bolt the who mess together and use the bolts to adjust tow-in. Thoughts? Also the plans method for ensuring proper toe in seem to me to require at least two four armed people. Any hints, tips and advise are greatly appreciated. Here are a couple of photos of my gear with an axle staged. The bottom of the strut is carved out a little differently than plans because I am using Matco brakes....

I think that many of these recent post (the alternative fuselage designs aside) only reinforce the need for some sort of collaboration. I too have developed roncz cad drawing, but i have not shared them with many because they needed to be checked for accuracy. I have worked on other drawings as well. Many of us are performing duplicating the work. Does anyone out there have any experience with open source development? Jon, thanks for taking the lead on the versioning site.

I seems to me that at this point there is gathering a great deal of information and input from many different directions and that is a good thing. However I wonder if perhaps there would be a better format for consolidating this information. Perhaps a wiki site, or some format that open software uses to collect and maintain the information.

Perhaps the problem was due to some sort of technical error....

Thanks, that was my last project I finnished a few years ago.

She stands!!!! Not much work to report, but for the first time the bird is standing on it's own two feet! Of course as always there are more photos at: http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/ Flying Backward

That shape is etched in my mind...... http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/ Flying Backward

Not much to report here, but I have almost finished the landing gear attachment procedures.. Of course as always there is more details and photos at... http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/ Flying Backward

I have no doubt that even if feather lite and the other few suppliers were to cease manufacturing that a suitable alternative could be found.

You only need one of those if you want to purchase an original set of drawings from Rutan or require reasonable gas prices.

This weekend I refurbished an engine mount I acquired with the help of my brother and a couple of his co-workers who provided some bead blasting and minor welding work. More of this process can be read and seen at: http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/ Flying Backward

The engine mount is off to be beadblasted. I will keep the powder coat option in mind, however I have been hearing from others (machinist that I know) that powder coating might not be a good idea. Perhaps if someone could point me in the direction of some literature or an FAA AC it might help me to educate myself. After finishing (or sooner if I do not get to that soon). I will add more oil to the inside to ensure it has a fresh coating to limit corrosion. Thanks.

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Of course safety is of paramount (no pun intended) importance, this is why I am asking these questions and I truly appreciate the input of everyone here who takes the time to read and discuss these topics. I do not have a history of the mount. I will attempt to get that info, but I doubt I will glean much information from its source. However, I can say the the mount defiantly is used, it was delivered to me with oil and dirt lightly coating its exterior and included some tubing clamps and wire ties that I have removed. I see no signs of cracks or stresses. I got a very good deal on the mount and I intend to use it unless I have any indication it is unsafe. I have decided to follow Crissi's advise as to its finish. I appreciate your arguments, however no one has pointed out a significant benefit to power coating and when considering the caveat that the mount might need to be repared or replaced I do not see the justification for the additional expense and perhaps risk it might conceal a crack. To put it another way.... Perhaps there is no risk to powder coating, however there is also no or little risk to a more conventional paint and it will save me some money. I will leave the screw in. However is it your opinion that the mount should be filled with oil, or merely coating the interior?

While I have not had time to work on these much lately, I do have more... If any one is interested in seeing what I have to date please PM or email me.

Ok, the NG-16 part is sold, but is there anything else available?

It seems that my question has opened up a can of worms. Let me analyze the responses.... Powder coating is not recommended due to its possible concealment of stress cracks. Rather a more conventional white paint over a corrosion resistant primer is recommended. The holes are either for injection of linseed oil for corrosion protection and as a side benefit will assist in detection of stress cracks, or for releasing hot gasses during manufacture. What I would like to know at this point is... Is my mount is safe? What sorts of inspection should I perform to ensure the mount is safe? What should I do with the holes? (should they be welded over? floxed? left alone with the screws in place?) Unless someone has a good reason for me to alter my plan I will have the mount bead blasted, inspected for cracks, primered and painted white (while I would like the mount to be pretty, function trumps pretty). I will leave the holes as is and use the existing screws. Thanks for all of your inputs.

Thanks for the insights. I am very glad I asked before I jumped the gun on powder coating. I presume the bead blasting is ok? Chrissi, can you provide more information on the recommended primer and paint, for instance what brand would you recommend?

I acquired a used engine mount for my EZ project. I noticed numerous tiny screws all over the mount. Can anyone enlighten me as to there purpose? Also, I am considering having the mount bead blasted and powder coated. I anyone knows of any reason not to do that please let me know. Thanks

I see the emphasis "do not allowing the canard to go above the horizon". Is this solely to prevent a prop strike, or is there some aerodynamic reason for that mantra? Lets say I have climbed to 50 or 100 feet, can I then raise the cannard above that position to perhaps clear an obstacle?