tonyslongez

NO The nose gear position does NOT change all we are doing is extending the material of the NG30 bulkhead from the gear mounting point out and up. Do not change the pivot location. Tony

Here are some cool pics of the Lancair gear, this type of setup might work well for my application. I'm not real familiar how the down lock works on these gear, if anyone can shed some light on that I would appreciate it. Tony

Here are some pics of the Bearkut gear.

Here is what my "210 type" mains might look like. The top and bottom bulkheads will more than likely be aluminum. The front bulkhead I want to make from birch glass and carbon. The rear bulkhead will be the extended lower portion of the firewall. I'd rather try to find away to make the square retracts work simply because they will be easier to machine than the "210" type. Tony

Here are my main retracts. The retract side plates would be ideal if I could keep them square, however, I don't think that is going to be the case. I will have to model them closer to the older style Cessan 210 gear that I have. The difference will be very obvious when you look at the other pics I have posted. Tony

Dave I planned on just running the outer glass of the nose up the inside of the NG30 only about 3in Dave don't be mad;) but I'm not sure what you mean by that question can you give me a reference. The NG30 position is the same as the plans and the clearances for the strut are the same as plans. I hope that helps Roofing Sux!! was a summer job for me when I was in J.R. High no fun at all I feel for you buddy. As far as the RAF templates what exactly are you doing with them? is there anything I can do to help you? let me know. Tony

Here are the "pot hole" NG30's no holes drilled as of yet, I'll take care of that tomorrow. This is, at least for me, the final design for the NG30 bulkheads. Tony

BIG DAAAAVE Good to hear from you buddy, glad you like the work. Yeah I'm not sure what to do about that bulkhead at the end of NG3o if you look close it does have a hole in it to run the Pitot tubing. I would like to hollow out that bulkhead, it's just a piece of 1/2in birch. The nose cone itself I made from a piper Arrow spinner. I put duct tape all over the spinner filled the inside with pour foam banged the prop flanges down smooth with the rest of the spinner and layed up 2 plys of BiD let it cure and popped it off the next day PERFECT nose cone. anyway I'll keep putting pics up to show my progress. As far as your airplane Dave!! go out and buy some darn foam and fiberglass and get to building man, we aint gettin no younger shonneeee Tony _____________________________________ Why is that goat standing on a cloud

Here is what NG30 looks like in the nose of the airplane. It's hard to see but I extended the bottom of the NG30 so that it would sit flush with the bottom of the nose what I want to do is glass the sides of the foam where the NG30 sit inside the foam well, then I'll glass the NG30 to that then I'll wrap the outer glass of the nose around the bottom of the nose and up into the inside of the NG30. It's hard to explain I'll draw some arrows on the pics. maybe that will shed some light. Now keep in mind this is NOT the new NG30 that Marc Z. wanted a little more material below the battery area this is the first one I cut out, but keep in mind the other one is very similar to this one. Tony

CNCDOC I'm sure it was a typo or more to the the point a memory lapso I can't find my sheet we did the w&b on I'm pretty sure it was 200 something? or another, because I'm 230lbs (full back) and I thought at some point I would find myself in the back Randy I think all of those questions could be answered best by Jon Matcho. velocity dreamer I didn't do the math initially when I stretched my fuse I just did what I was told I needed to do. My thought was I could move the batterys around to compensate for any ballast I might need. I don't know if that will work but I'm confident I can make it balance out at some point. Tony (why is that goat standing on a cloud)

cncdoc I do want ideas and I have ideas. the drawings I have are posted on the long nose thread, which has 4 pages of comments and drawings, go thru those first and then post your ideas this way you can catchup with where we are on the whole SNG issue. I would love to see your ideas on this. Tony

Yes all the numbers that I have are very preliminary just to kinda get me in the ball park. Once I get closer i'll put the wheels on the scales and see how good of a guesser I am

Lynn I worked up the W&B on my Long Ez, preliminary showed that I was full fuel and a 250lb GIB I was at the rear most Cof G envelope, using a 13b N/A with Tracys redrive. On landing I think it showed that I would be a bit nose heavy but not out of the envelope. I'll do a W&B chart again to see where I'm at. My buddy and I did this about a 1yr ago so my numbers may be off a bit I'll check. As far as the baggage strakes go I did not extend them forward with the longer fuse, I just planned on using wing pods. I think you can extend the strakes forward but I think you would have to change the leading edge angle Tony

I'll use this thread for my main landing gear drawings and ideas.

I'll use this thread from now on for the steerable nose gear drawings and ideas.

Velocity dreamer definitely follow the advise given to you. Without a doubt, if you are new to laying up fiberglass, I strongly recommend you start with the fuse. Your going to be very upset if you build a wing or two and find out you did it wrong, that is a sure fire way to get you divorced or worse buying an RV kit (that was really funny) You can make your fuse wider you won't regret it. It's nice to have a little extra room for those big coats during winter flying. Also think about this, if you ever find yourself in the backseat of your own airplane the extra inches bak there will really come in handy. I fit very well in the back seat of my Long with just 2in wider than stock. I can't fit in the back of a stock Long Ez my shoulders are far to wide. Just trying to help you along here. You have alot of work in front of you. you'll have plenty of time to get stuck on other issues. One last thing if you are going to use a heavier engine you might want to consider stretching the fuse from the front seat bulkhead to the rear seat bulkhead. I streched mine 6in" it helps with W&B and gives TGIB a little more leg room. Good Luck Tony

Now What we need to do now is find an acceptable way to spread the side loads without adding to much weight. I'll draw it up to what I think it should look like and Marc you can critique it if you would. Tony

Got it. Essentially where the battery is suppose to go, You want it extended up. How does this look?

here is the long nose hollowed out. Here is the new Ng30. This may change slightly to accomodate for some added bulkheads. As Marc Z. pointed out that sharp corner above the trunion pivot point is cause for concern, so that will have to be radiused a bit. I'll have to go back into autocad and see what kind of radius I can put there.

Here is the shock

Marc That is unfortunate that happened to your Cozy. Since I started building this Long Ez I thought the NG30 was a weak link in the nose. This won't make you feel any better but I saw the same thing happen to a guy in a Long Ez at Sun N Fun a couple of years ago do the exact same thing only he hit a pothole. Don't we think that NG30 should be able to with stand more trauma than taxing thru a pothole? I mean not a pothole that is going swallow your airplane but one that is moderate in size. I'm all for building lite but NG30 IMO should be birch not foam. I think your out come would've been less severe. I've laid up some birch carbon pieces before and that stuff is harder than my head:D I understand that it's suppose to yield to prevent further damage but my problem with that thinking is no matter when or how it fails it does substantial damage. I can't imagine I could make NG30 so strong that the entire nose and floor would fail before it did. But I can imagine making it strong enough to handle a moderate pothole or in your case a stuck breeak O.K. but look what happens if we slap the nose down with our current system it is going to shimmy violently and has shown in the past, at least for the Longs, to break the caster. If we have a bad landing the nose gear is going to break period. I mean look at the thing it's so flimsy, (Lite) yes, but flimsy at best. I think it could absolutely stand to be beefed up a little. I don't want to add 50lbs of glass and carbon but maybe 2.5lbs could be strategically placed in and around the area to handle some off roading at Oshkosh. How about if I just layup the whole nose in carbon (in and out) then I would have to rip off half of the fuselage in order for it to fail and if that happens we can call it a CRASH:D . I can do all of that. The other thing is, if I land with max rudder input and the side load is say 225lbs or so. The wheel is going to snap forward because the gas struts are only about 10lbs of preasure they can't hold the wheel in that position but they are strong enough to steer the wheel. Does that make sense:rolleyes: BTW Marc that was a very helpful post thanks. Tony

I think this will be close to the final design for damping. I decided to keep the spacer that is sitting over the steering fork it is housing the needle bearings and an oilite bushing. I have some more work to do on the steering fork obviously but that is easy to fix. All of this will fit inside the NG30. I really want it to be retrofit. Now how do I solve for the side load issues? Marc if your watching do you have any idea what type of loads are on the NG30's now? Can I solve for the extra loads with a few well placed halfround bulkheads or implement Carbon/Kevlar onto the new NG30, What if I made them out of 1/4in birch with a carbon layup? (you can't say I don't use my imagination)

The other shock tower that I have planned will hold the steering fork in place and not allow it to move upward during damping. Obviously that is not possible with this particular shock tower. I'll try and have that finallized this week. Tony

O.k Here we go What you are looking at is the damping portion of my gear the shock is from FOX Racing. These shocks are very small and are fully adjustable, they are used primarilly on pocket bikes they will not bottom out, (at least if your 200+lbs and jump the thing about 3ft in the air it won't bottom out.) You can get these from FOX Racing, custom fit to your needs. The drawing of the shock is scale. What I'm trying to accomplish is to keep everything within NG30, if I can keep the shock position where it is that will be easy to accomplish. The needle bearings (RED) will allow the steering fork to rotate easily under the loads of damping. I drew the shock tower a little high so the shoulder under the needle bearings won't necessarily be there. The steering rod moves up and down inside the steering fork (Gold). I can steer at all times because the rod has a portion of its radius milled flat, this flat spot is just slightly longer than the travel of the shock which in this case is about (2") that length can be adjusted if I need more travel. The wheel fork is attached to a larger diameter bar 1.25in dia than the steering rod itself this larger bar is supported with 2 oilite bearings top and bottom for about 4in total. that bar will translate the impact loads into the steering rod which in turn will be dampend out by the shock. the strut is attached to the top of the lower bar assembly. about (3in") I'm sure this won't be the final design the trunion isn't very machine friendly. Tony

Marc Did you see the last rendering on this post? Was that what you where reffering to for the rake and trail? I haven't finished the rendering for the damping but you are either going to laugh or think it is a good idea. I'm going to hang it out there anyway. I'm a glutton for punishment. Also I don't think that I/you /we, will be able to retract the nose gear half way as I intended to do earlier in the rendering. I think it will compromise the NG30. I've seen a few guys with small dollys under the nose to move the plane around in the hanger. I think I'm willing to give that up for steering. But I may be able to simplify the other design to work but for now this looks like the most practical retrofit. I want to be able to just retrofit this into any long Ez or Varie. without alot of fuss. I have to see if Pazmany has the side load formulas. I'll try come up with a way to use the existing NG30 to handle those loads without alot of added weight, give me a day or two to get the drawing together. Tony