rnbraud

I have completed 1/2 of my Ng-30's. Foam cut to plans, middle section extended one inch up. Inside layups done, 4 bid, 2 uni per newsletter recommendation. Outside prepped for layup. Foam for glass hardpoints removed and blended. Plywood hardpoint fabricated and beveled and floxed in. I have read several posts concering keeping the NoseGear standard length, i.e. do not remove 1.0-1.5 inch as received from featherlite. In order to do this, some have suggested making the NG-30's1.0-1.5 inches. Now since I have already completed one side of the NG-30's, is it possible to add 1.0-1.5 inches before completing the outside layups? I am considering adding 1 inch of foam flush with the outside, then complete the outside layup. Then after cure, flip them over and add a 6 ply 1.0 inch tape to build up the bare foam. Then apply a 2.5 inch 2 ply tape covering the 1.0 inch build up tape lapping 1.5 inches onto the NG-30. Is this a good plan? Is it advisable to lengthen the NG-30's to accodomate a longer Nose Gear? Thanks

TMann, thanks for the research. I have decided to revert back to the original plans instructions. Mainly since I was unable to locate phenolic nor G-10 today and want to get the layups done this evening. Also, I didn't realize the 15 layers for the hardpoints didn't equal to 1/4". I assumed it did and therefore was considering 1/4" thick phenolic or G-10.

I read somewhere someone was using 1/4" phenolic, the kind called out in the plans for bearings, as hardpoint material for the NG-30. Is this an acceptable hardpoint material? Also, along the same lines, I have seen some websites where builders made a 15+ layup that was 1/4" thick, then let it cure, then cut out circles. Then they removed the foam down to the inner skin, floxed in the hardpoints, THEN, completed the 4 plies of the outside layup. Is it a good idea to put the hardpoints below the layup, instead of on top as in the plans? Later.

WARNING: NEWBIE QUESTION FOLLOWS I have just re-read the Contact Magazine 88.5 highlighting Paul Lipps inventions. One of the pics shows a harmonic balancer on his engine. This piqued my interest. Why don't Lyc's and Conti's have harmonic balancers similar to automotive engines? Seems like an easy thing to add and wouldn't it make the engine run smoother? The Franklin has one, why not the others? later.

Hello Antonio, Unfortunately, I haven't found any local suppliers. The only thing local was the West epoxy used for finishing. I found it at a local West Marine store. Also, I was able to find Alodine for the aluminum parts at the local autobody store, English paint supply. They had to order it, but there were no hazardous charges. Good luck.

Thanks for the info. I think Wicks includes the $20 HazMat fee in the shipping charge. Later.

Just curious, what wer the shipping/hazardous charges?

Hello All, I just cut the trough for the rudder conduit in my right wing. I am planning on installing the hidden bellhorns. The RAF plans call for the conduit to curve around the top outermost corner of the airelon, cleared by at least one inch, then angles down toward the trailing edge, and then curves again to become parallel to the trailing edge about 1.2 inches from it. This is how I just cut it. aka 2 kinks Now I have seen/read where some people simlply ran the conduit in a straight line from the root all the way across the wing to the 1.2 inch point forward of the trailing edge. I believe the intent of this "direct" route is to obtain smoother motion of the cable/rudder without any bends. However, if we go directly from the root to this point the cable will be pointed aft towards the trailing edge and not parallel to it. I was wondering if a compromise would be to go directly from the root to a point about 12 inches from the end and 1.2 inches above the T.E. then make one gradual curve to make the rest of the conduit parallel to the T.E. 1.2 inches forward. I am just curious since the RAF routing creates two bends/kinks for the cable to "rub" against while this new routing would create only one bend/kink therefore making the cable movement smoother and yet still exiting parallel to the T.E. What do you experts think??

Hello all, I am just starting Chapter 10 and am cutting out the foam cores. When I inventoried my order, from Wicks, I noticed it listed two (2) blocks of 7"x14"x64" and two (2) blocks of 7"x14"x41" foam blocks. Now I see where the two 64" blocks are used for the left and right side of the canard. However, I only see where one 41" block is used for the center core. What is the other 41" block for? I hope it is extra, since I screwed up cutting my center core and need to make a new one. Thanks.

I have just finished constructing the hot-air duct and the seatback support and fuel selector bracket. I am ready to assemble them and was wondering when the recessed area, for the fuel lines to pass, is cut out. I looked ahead to Chapter 7 and didn't see any mention of it. Once the seatback support and bottom are in place, I don't see how I will have access to this recessed area. Should I go ahead and cut out this area right now prior to assembling the seatbac support and hot-air duct, or is there somewhere else in the instructions where this will be done? Thanks.

John, thanks for looking into this. Another quick question. Is it fair to say that the Aluminim hardpoints, which the engine mount connects to, is stronger or equally strong as the fiberglass layups which surroud it.? The reason I am asking, is if the Aluminum hardpoints are enlarged or extended, the intent is to maintain the strength of the connection to the longerons while at the same time accomodating a standard-sized engine mount. If the Aluminum isn't as strong as the surrounding fiberglass, then I would revert to utilizing a custom engine mount. Thanks.

John, thanks for the information. I was really hoping for the cowling to fit, oh well. I am curious about the engine mount Aluminum hardpoints. If the rear is wider, and the hardpoints are in the same place, ie right next to the longerons, how can the engine mount be standard width? Do the hardpoints extend inward to meet the mount? Thanks.

Hello all, I have a quick question about the Aerocanard firewall. I was wondering that since the AeroCanard is 3 " wider in the back seat, does that mean the firewall is 3" wider? The Cozy plans show the firewall to be 18 1/2 inches x 2 = 37" wide at the bottom of the main spar, and 15 1/4 x 2 = 30 1/2" wide at the top of the spar "between" the longerons. If you measure outside the longerons it would be 17" x 2 = 34". Is the Aerocanard firewall wider than these dimensions? The reason I am asking, it if I widen my Cozy MkIV firewall three inches I was wondering if I could get a engine mount and cowling from AeroCad pre-built. Thanks for the info.

I build my landing gear bulkheads using the Lo-Vac technique. When I removed the peel ply last night, I was mortified to see a "DRY LAYUP". It looks way to dry, and when I weigh them they were below the avg amounts by a few ounces. This is worse than you think when youconsider I made them 3" wider and made each hard point 1 1/2" wider. I am pretty sure I have convinced myself that these are too dry to use and I am planning to re-do them. However, as a sanity check, please refer to the attahced photos and comment on them. The second to last one, the 03 pic, has my good F-28 on top for comparison. I am looking for extra reassurance before I cut into them to remove the hardpoints. Thanks. P.S. This is my first image post, and the digital camera is kinda crappy.

Now I am totally inexperinced, just starting building, and am not a bona-fide engineer, but ... I just gotta throw out an option: Jabiru 5500. It is an "airplane" engine, designed from the start. It is simple internal combustion engine, it is air-cooled just like Lycommings and continentals. It is priced well, and it is very light and compact. From the outside looking in, it seems it has all the features we are looking for: 180 hp, smooth operation via 8 cylinders, very light being mostly aluminum, an airplane design from the start, quiet, my personal pet peeve, witha muffler, compact size, and I think burns both mogas and avgas. I bring it up here because it doens't get mentioned often, but seems to be the ultimate alternative to Lycommings and Continentals. Please comment or flame!

Is RAF the only place for the hidden bellhorn plans? DId you order the "Flush Bellhorn Plans" from the RAF website for $14? Thanks.

Yep, that would seem to be true. Hadn't thought of that. Glad I asked, now. Thanks.

Preface: This is not a criticism of Larry Wimbles constructions methods. Conversely, he is very meticilous. I noticed when he built F-22 he used strips of fiberglass, overlapped by about 1", over the "skinn" pieces. Up until then I would have thought we needed a complet sheet of fiberglass cloth. His "strip" method seems a lot easier and uses less cloth. Is this ok? Stronger or weaker? What's everybody's opinion? Thanks.

Jon, thanks for the comments. It is encouraging to see I am makeing the same mistakes/observations as other newbies. Carlos, that is a good idea, I hadn't thought of it. I may try it for the bacside. Later.

Nope, the butcher paper isn't waxed. I hadn't thought of that one, thanks. Yes it was AS&S, but I am still okay with what I have experienced so far. I unrolled about 3 yards last night for my first layup, and the fraying got better as I got into the rolll. I haven't unwrapped my BID yet, but hope it is ok. Goog to know about Wick's cloth packaging. I would have thought a box would have been better, but I guess the plastic bag and paper is ok then. I don't think I will return the stuff since it is getting better as I get deeper into the roll. Thanks for the insight.

Yes, you are right Jon, but as a newbie any mistakes are cause for panick. I did my first layup last night. All seemed to go well. I really didn't like the butting of the small triangular piece to get complete coverage, but it was unavoidable. I did have one problem, well really two. I made my slurry really thick and it went on well. I did as advised,and poured on the epoxy for the first layup, spread it around, then laid down the first layup. Man, it takes a lot of epoxy for coverage. After getting the first layp wetted out, I made a new batch of epoxy and poured it on top of the first ply. When I placed the second ply on and started to wet it out, I discovered the poured on epoxy "pooled" underneath the first and second ply causing epoxy bubbles, not air, but epoxy. When I tried to spreat out the epoxy, it mixed in with the micro slurry and caused some cloudy spots. The second problem was with the 4-mil plastic. I was only able to obtain some folded stuff from the depot, so it had creases. Even thought it is on top of the peel ply, I am sure it will cause ridges. I haven't checked the layup since last night since I have a piece of plywood on top to keep it flat. Oh, yeah, I seem to be having trouble getting the MGS 335 to cure fast enough. I am using the slow hardner with Larry Wimbles spreadsheet; i.e. 100:38, but it is taking 10 to 12 hours to fully cure. My garage dips down into the upper 60's at night, but in the upper 80's during the day. Could this temp be causing the slow cure. I am hesitant to add the fast hardner, but I may need to in order to make better progress. Later.

Thanks for the quick replayl. I re-read Chap 3, Page 4. I guess I just needed a lil extra confidence before making the plunge. Later.

Well I have gotten around to unpacking my fiberglass cloth for the initial bulkhead construction and am a lil perplexed. When I removed the protective plastic wrap and butcher paper from the UNI roll, I noticed the edges were really frayed. Like about 1 to 2 inches of the ends were frayed. Is this normal? Initially, I was surprised the rolls of fiberglass were shipped wrapped in butcher paper an just placed in a plastic bag. They arrived all "shifted" to the end of the roll. I was kinda expecting them to be delivered ina box similar to the way the peel ply was delivered from another company. Didn't think much of it, but now that I have unpacked them just seems odd the ends are all frayed. Oh well, live and learn.

Ok, I was all ready to do my very first layup on the seatback when I went into mini panic mode. I went to cut my UNI cloth when I realized the with of the cloth would not completly cover the seatback since it would be laid diagonally. The diagonal length is 50+ inches while the cloth width is only about 36 inches. Now I am pretty sure I need to use two pieces of cloth per ply and simply but up the ends, since this is UNI. BUT, I just wanted to be extra sure since this is the very first layup. So, please confirm that I will need two pieces of UNI, butted together, to get complete coverage of the seatback bulkhead? Thanks.

I totally agree. As I reviewed successive chapters and noted how the turtleback and canopy attached, I realized it would be a substantial undertaking. More and more I realize I better follow the plans as close as possible. Later.