rnbraud

Hello all, I don't recall seeing anything in the plans concerning a seal under the canopy lip. I could be mistaken since I read through all of the plans a few years ago. I am getting ready to build my canopy FHC frame and am wondering what is the best spacing between the rail and the longeron to build in to it. Based on the plans description (both standard Cozy and Uli Walter's plans) and the number of layers of duct tape to put on the longerons, it seems there is only about 1/16" spacing there. That doesn't seem like much room for adding any kind of seal. I would think 1/4" would be better, but I would appreciate confirmation of this hunch. Also, what is the current trend/state-of-the-art/consensus on seal type/material/shape? Also, any suggestions for modifying the inside foam shape/layups for the canopy frame? Thanks.

K, here is my current plan: 1. Cut my "mega" canopy to match the normal Cozy canopy cut-line; i.e. the aft canted edge. 2. Mount canopy on fuse and jig it in place. Temporarily install temporary upper firewall piece 3. Stuff blue foam in the area between the canopy and the firewall. 4. Shape the foam to follow the contour of the Canopy to the firewall. Keep in mind the engine cowling shape. 5. Apply release tape to foam, mask off canopy plexi, and apply normal turtleback layups on foam area only. Let cure. 6. Add multi-layer (# TBD) layup to aft edge of canopy on the exterior about 2"-3" wide ala Long-EZ canopy. 6. Proceed with normal Cozy Canopy construction for foam and outer layups. 7. Build jig to hold the Canopy and fixed mini-turtleback shell in place. Remove from fuse and flip over. 8. Apply 1-inch strips of normal turtleback foam to the inside of the rear/fixed mini-turtleback and apply normal plys to the inside of the mini-turtleback. 9. Proceed with normal Cozy Canopy construction for the interior fiberglass layups. 10. Add multi-layer (# TBD) layup to the aft edge of canopy on the interior about 2"-3" wide ala Long-EZ canopy. 11. Build-up normal Cozy drip-rail attached to mini-turtleback. Next steps may occur here or after installing Front Hinged Canopy hardware and seeing how rigid the canopy is. If canopy is sufficiently rigid, the following will be done. 12. Add roll-over structure in a similar fashion as detailed in the Long-EZ/Rutan/Melville instructions. The sub-structure will resemble Dennis Passey's design which I call the "T-Top" structure. Kids, if you don't know what a T-Top is, Google "Smokey and the Bandit"!. The primary benefit of this approach is that the roll-over sub-structure is not bonded to the plexi, but is a seperated from it by about 1/8"-1/4" away from the plexi; i.e. not touching. If the canopy is not rigid enough, then the following will be done. 12. Build up roll-over structure as in Long-EZ/Rutan/Melville instructions, except no separation from the canopy. Not bonded. Let cure and remove. 13. Trace outline of roll-over structure to inside of canopy and apply Sika-Flex primer where the roll-over structure will touch the plexi according to application guidelines. Either White or Black, not sure. 14.Bond roll-over structure to canopy with Sika-Flex 295 UV adhesive. 15. Connect roll-over structure to canopy edge layups and possibly incorporate Long-EZ/Rutan/Melville roll-over attachments to seatback and longerons. I will update the list as this progresses.

I would think it would be no more difficult then current design. Further, check back with my new approach based on the LongEZ/Rutan/Melleville roll-over approach. Then it would be very EZ.

Yep, I got a response back from them which said the same thing. Seems while curing, the epoxy will give off chemicals which will weaken the bond with the primer. They suggest plexi, primer, adhesive, "cured" fiberglass. Later.

Hello Lynn, I will post a complete plan in a subsequent posting, but as to this problem, I plan to warp the aft edge of the canopy with fiberglass layups, inside and out, ala Long EZ Canopy. This should fix the problem. Later.

Hello Lynn and Marc, I think my idea may have been lost my wording. If you are still interested, take a look at this pic on my website: http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/tripleseven/mycanopy.jpg This is the "effect" I am trying to recreate. You can see the substructure under the canopy plexi in the photo. What I am talking about is bonding/adhereing that substructure to the inside of the canopy plexi. Also, the Sika Primer 206 I mentioned is a black colored liquit and is supposed to provide real good adhesion to the plexi. The added benefit is that from the outside it looks like that coating we see on the edges of our cars windshields and windows. From what I read it seems the primer provides a real good bond with the plexi, provides UV protection, and makes for a very nice looking cover under the plexi. My concern is in the bonding of a "wet layup" to this primer which is why I posted the original question. Thanks for your previous comments and I look forward to any and all future comments on this.

Hello Marc, Thanks for responding. First please note that I am "considering" doing this, I haven't decided yet. The primary reason for considering this approach is appearance. A secondary reason was ease of construction, however, this is turning out to be not the case, duh. Anyway, in considering this approach one of the major problems, from my perspective, is how to best bond the canopy to the turtleback structure. Later.

Hello Lynn, Yes I am considering building the canopy/turtleback a little differently than standard. I had a one-piece canopy blown/made that goes "on top" of the turtleback and covers all the windows. This way the turtleback will be under the full length canopy. Therefore the glass that is bonded to the canopy would be exposed to sunlight; i.e. no layups on the outside of the canopy.

Hello all. I have a question about bonding fiberglass to the underside of our canopy. I came across a product called Sikaflex that the RV guys use to bond there canopies to a metal frame. It is a two part product which consists of a Primer/UV (Sika 206) protector applied to the canopy, and an adhesive (Sikaflex 295UV) applied to the metal frame. This is in lieu of rivets or screws. I would like to bond fiberglass to the underside of the Cozy canopy material via a "wet layup". However, this would leave it exposed to UV radiation. So I am considering laying up the fiberglass over Sikaflex Primer 206 which has been applied to the canopy which would give me UV protection and adhesion to the canopy. My question is if anyone knows/speculates/guesses whether this will provide a good/sufficient bond between the plexi and the fiberglass once it cures? My other option is to use the canopy as a sort of mold by covering the inside with tape to form a mold release, layup the fiberglass and let it cure. Remove the cured fiberglass, remove the tape from the canopy, apply the Sikaflex primer 206 to the canopy, apply the 295 UV adhesive to the primer, then replace the cured fiberglass. As you can see the second option is way more time consuming. What are you guys thoughts?

Thanks all for your info. I didn't consider making the canopy all out of CF. Hmmmm. Will probably just stay with Uli's intructions for simplicity.

Ok, I have run this around my head enough times to make me dizzy. I am hoping to receive my Canopy plexiglass later this week or early next. I am doing a Front-Hinged Canopy ala Uli Walter's plans. Now, my gut feeling, not scientific nor engineerific, is that a FHC would benefit from a stiffer structure. Of course, the compromise is additional plys adding weight vs stiffness gained. However, we have this wonderful product called S-Glass! I have poured over the archives and other websites and understand the intricacies of fiberglass design/selection. So, I am curious, if conventional wisdom. Is there any benefit to using S-Glass BID and UNI in place of the usual E-Glass BID and UNI? The S-Glass I would possibly use the the BID and UNI available from AS&S and Wicks. Sufficient plys would be used to match the oz/sq yd specs of the usual E-glass. Any and all comments, advice, banishment, encouragement, are welcome. Later.

Please heeeeeelllllpppp a newbie. I am getting ready to drill my MKNG-4A/MKNG-3A combination and am confused about the instructions. These are the stainless steel items from Jack Whilem.... ( I can never spell his last name) Electric Nose Lift. MKNG4-A came pre-drilled. This is the lil INSIDE one. MKNG3-A, the OUTSIDE one is NOT drilled. Now, I have already installed them on the strut and did all the glass work for the cover and reinforcing glass work for these brackets. In other words, they are already on there real nice and good. Now, the problem. When I installed them the inside bracket (MKNG4-A) sat about 1/8" below the top of the outside one (MKNG3-A). I didn't realize I need to build up that guy with flox and glass till after it was installed. (More on this later) I also didn't realize it was odd that the inside one (MKNG4-A) was already pre-drilled. It would seem to me the outside (MKNG3-A) should have been pre-drilled. Anyhoo, I re-read, and re-read again, the instructions from Jack W. and it says clearly as follows: "You will now install the new heavier NG3A and NG4A (made of stainless steel). Please pay special attention to this step." ..... "2. Be careful when you drill the holes in the brackets that there is enough clearance for the actuator to rotate without binding. The position of the holes may vary to allow fitting but should not be closer to the inside bottom of the bracket than .70 inches or farther from the top of the bracket than .625 inches." Now the pre-drilled hole in MKNG4-A (the inside one) is centered .55 inches from the bottom of the bracket and .50 inches from the top of the bracket. So, there is no way to drill a hole in the MKNG3-A/MKNG4-A combination and still meet the above directions. Did I get the wrong MKNG4-A Bracket???? Shouldn't MKNG3-A bracket have been pre-drilled instead of MKNG4-A???? Any advice on how to resolve this issue????? Help.

Never mind I found it. Page 8 Chapter 13. But the description of CS-13 was a diagram, not in the text where I was looking. I am embarrassed, but relieved to have found it. Later.

I am planning to upgrade the bolts in my Dennis Oelman rudder pedals to taper pins. Now, what about the "thru bolts" that form the bearing at the ends of the pedals near the fuselage sides? Should they be upgraded to AN4 hardware? Or are the AN3 bolts sufficient? Also, the CS-13. I assume they are steel and not aluminum. Duh. Anyone have the specs on the CS-13? I made some out of aluminum for aligning things, but will need steel versions of them later. Thanks.

I am installing the rudder pedals and drilled out the holes in NG-30 as per plans. I am using Dennis Oelman's 3/4" rudder pedals. They fit ok, but the fit in NG-30 isn't all that snug and already it is squeaking when they rotate. I am considering some sort of bearing, however, due to the really nice coating Dennis applied, standard 3/4" bearings are a little too small on the inside diameter. So, I could sand off the nice coating, but then it would leave bare metal exposed in the nose gear leg well. I could grind or machine the brass/bronze bushing to size but would that nice white coating hold up for very long in the bushing or the ball bearing. I am leaning towards the nylon/delrin flanged bearing and either machining out the inside diameter to fit the 3/4" shaft the the white coating or split the nylon bearing and flox it into the NG-30 for a sorta interference fit onto the shaft. Any advice? Doesn't the plans method allow air infiltration or is it not an issue since it is in the nose gear leg well? Thanks.

Are those bearings on the ends? If so, could you elaborate on how you did them? Thanks.

Thanks for all the advice. I went ahead and left it as is and completed the "top" layup last night. I was really concerned about removing the first "bottom" layup and damaging the strut. Will see how bad it turns out when I put it in the fuse. Thanks again. Later.

K, long story short: Working on main landing gear, yada, yada, ... build jig using wall and shelf board, yada, yada, ... build attach tab box, yada, yada, ... check alignment, right leg a little off, assume top of box not square, yada, yada, ... in a hurry to get something done, go ahead and do "bottom" attach tab layup, yada, yada, ... let cure, yada, yada, ... misalignment bothering me, check gear in jig Oh Snap!!! If I line up gear legs at the 9.25" alignment line, the aft right attach tab is about 1/4"-3/8:" away from the jig board. Oh Snap!!! If I line up the attach tab with the jig board, the left gear leg is about 1/2" forward of the 9.25" alignment line. Please refer to my crummy website for pictures: http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/tripleseven/index.html So, now what do I do. The lazy in me says go ahead and continue and simply place the left axle 1/2" back from the normal position. Shouldn't be a problem, right, since we remove all that material back there for the brake caliper anyway. Or even better spit the difference and make the right axle 1/4" forward and the left axle 1/4" aft. The other side of me says to cut off the 1/2 complete attach tabs, peal back and/or sand off the glass attached to the gear leg, rebuild the jig and re-do the attach tab jig box thingy. In fact I started doing this tonight before writing this e-mail. Soooooooooo, what advice can you fellow oaf's give me on this one? P.S. Upon reflection of this incident I realize now the shelf board on the ground must have shifted away from the wall making the gear not sit flush with my alignment board. Must be the damn kids. Yeah, it was them, that was the ticket. It could not possibly have been me and my urge to hurry up and get something done!

Hello All, While my main gear hoop torsional layup cures, I will be working on my nose gear doors. I plan to make them a pair, the front of which are each 1/2" wider than the aft so the hinges from a "V" opening towards the front. This is due to a tip form Wayne Hicks website and is there to keep the door open via wind blast. After tracing the outline on the fuse, 1/2", for each, looks kinda wide. Just curious what others have done in this regard for their nose gear doors??? Later. P.S. Yes I plan to e-mail Wayne directly, but am curious about others opinion. P.S.S. Not that Wayne's opinion isn't important, but .... oh nevermind.

Hello All, I am getting ready to add the brake line conduit to the landing gear and was wondering what is the best/largest size for the conduit in which the brake fluid line will reside in? I am using the brake kit from Infinity Aerospace, Matco, and it includes 6' of 1/4" nylon tubing instead of the 3/16" tubing called out in the plans. So I will be continuing with the 1/4" tubing throughout the airplane. I would also like to run 2 to 4 small diameter wires down this same conduit for possible instrumentation signal wires. I plan on doing the Wayne Hicks Fairing mod. So, about what is the approximate largest size of this conduit do you guys/gals think I can use? I was thinking 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID. What diameter conduit did youse guys use? Thanks.

Hello Chrissi, Sorry for not getting back sooner. "home" work. Good point on the NG-30 attachment. I plan to leave a 1 inch "rib" top and bottom and several inches on the side. Should be ok this way. Thanks for the info. Will post pictures when I get back to working on the airplane. Gotta finish up that 2007 "Home" work duties. Later.

If so how much? The reason I ask is that I am contemplating/struggling with the ballast compartment door. I have the floor of the compartment already formed and laid up three layers of glass. I would prefer not having nose ballast door, but I do want a nose ballast compartment. Then it came to me while researching several of the builder websites that a few fellas/gals bore through F-0 in order to place landing lights or to provide access to landing lights. So I was thinking, why not cover the nose cone completely and access the ballast compartment through the nose cover via access doors cut out of F-0! What do you guys/gals think about cutting an access door in F-0 on either side of NG-30? Will it compromise the structure "significantly"? Later. P.S. My nose is going to contain only a ballast compartment, no pitot and no landing lights. Those are both another discussion.

Thanks Lynn, That one looks way better than mine. Then again mine only cost $9 bucks at Harbor Freight. It is Christmas time, so I think I will add it to my list. Later.

I would appreciate some advice. I am working on the nose and while waiting for parts, I got a lil impatient and built and installed the NG-30's before receiving my MKNG-6A. The NG-30s are installed, the nose bottom is installed, the nose sides are installed, and the inside layups are complete. Now, to my major disappointmnet, the MKNG-6A bolt won't go through the hole in the NG-30's. Hmmm, so I re-read Chap 13 for the n'th time, and dammit,there it is on page 5, the end of the first paragraph: After cure, open up the holes for the MKNG-6 to 5/16" I.D. Dohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! My MKNG-6 hole is still 1/4". So, I look inside and I can't see anyway to fit a drill and 5/16" drill bit in there. I have a 90 degree attachment for both my drill and dremel. For the Drill once you add the drill bit I won't be able to get it in there. For the Dremel, it might fit, but they don't make 5/16" drill bits. So, here are my options: 1) Cut the drill bit down to a knub, and see if it will fit with the 90 degree attachment. 2) Use the Dremel 90 degree attachment with a 5/16" cylinder HSS cutter. Followed up with a 5/16" grinding stone for clearance. Any other ideas you guys might have??

Dangit Edge, I had just convinced myself that I didn't need sliding front and rear canopies :yikes: and "setteled" for a FHC canopy. Now I see yours and it got me debating the issue again. I too am curious about the "complexity" issue which made you abandon your approach? I am also curious who made the canopy for you? Thanks. I will be back to discuss this later.