rnbraud

I have already purchased the Fein, the Dritz, and a rotary cutter. I have practiced with the rotary cutter, but not yet the Fein or the Dritz. Busy building the table and the fabric cabinet. I think I need to just cut up my practice pieces with my brand new Fein and get the hang of it. Thanks for all the info. Hopefully, if AS&S "EAST!" comes through with my first materials delivery I will be building, and cutting, real stuff real soon. Later.

Even though cutting through cured fiberglass isn't too difficult, it would seem so much easier to have the basic shape their in the foam and then the knife trim would be a "piece of pie!". Also, knife trimming removes any chance of delam and so forth. Finally, the other bulkheads are indeed "pre-cut" so it would seem the seatback could be also.

Justa curious newbie, but are the seatback bulkhead cutouts called out for after the first layup. Wouldn't be easier to cut the raw foam first then do the layups? This way we would only have to knife trim all cutouts, with the dritz, and sand when cured. Also, when should we remove the peel ply, after compete cure or after we knife trim? Thanks.

John Matcho said: # Put the longerons flush with the outside of the fuselage skin (as opposed to the behind the foam on the inside) John, I would like to hear more about this mod. It seems like an easy change, however, I haven't found much discussion on it. Later.

Ok, I am diving in and will be placing my initial material order tomorrow or this weekend. I will be purchasing materials for Chaps 4-7. I checked both AS&S and Wicks and to my surprise Wicks comes out $125 more than AS&S for the same material! Now I am aware of past posting concerning customer service from AS&S and the consensus was that Wicks was better at it but possibly AS&S was improving. Does anyone know why there is such a difference in price? It isn't much, but still almost the price of a Fein! Is Wicks materials of better quality? I know this has been discussed and will probably lead to a mini flame war, but I am just curious about such a discrepancy on the same material. Thanks.

What is the best route from Louisville (SDF) Airport to Rough River? Looks like I can either take I-65 down or take "the back way" over US-60? Thanks.

Thanks. An you are right, I haven't spilled any epoxy yet. However, I am looking through glasses right now that have some dried epoxy on the corners which was deposited there during my practice layups! When I get the first epoxy on the first bulkhead then, and only then, wiill I be a "real" builder. Thanks again and I hope to meet you at Rought River this weekend! Later.

Received the plans from Aircraft Spruce yesterday and signed the license agreement. I guess I am now "officially" a Cozy builder. YaaaaHooooo! WIll probably start construction right after I get back from RR. Later.

Thanks for the info. Omar, where are you located in the Dallas area? I am in north Plano? Later.

Yep, kinda came to the same conclusion. My main driver for this was with the PSRU, however, there still needs to be some way to attach the prop to the crank which would mean some sort of housing. PSRU's are more comples than asimple connection to the crank, but if you still need a housing, and therefore bearings and such, than a PSRU isn't all that much more complex. Later.

Thanks for the info. I agree on the first couple of chapters. I was thinking more of a local supplier for epoxy, I am going with MGS, since it has a definite shelf life. The only other thing I would consider locally would be bulk rolls of fiberglass. I will be ordering the plans this week in order for them to arrive by Sept. 23! Thanks again.

(caution newbie) Why do auto conversions require PSRU's. I understand that auto engines rev at a higher RPM, but, is the need to reduce the propellor speed for the sake of the prop or the engine? I guess I am wondering if normal prop cruise speed is between 2500-3000 rpm why not just put a different prop on an auto-conversion which operates at the 4000-6000 rpm range? Or, is it possible to add more smaller blades to a prop, i.e. 5, 6, or 8 blade props of a smaller diameter, which would either slow down the engine or would be able to operate at higher rpms. Just asking.

Just curious what the current scoop is on the new AeroCad? Thanks.

Hello all, Well it is three weeks away from my B-Day, which means I will be getting my plans soon. I am getting the shop (garage) ready. I was wondering if anyone know of a local supplier for MGS expoxy and/or the BID and UNI in the Dallas/Fort Worth, TX area? Thanks.

Thanks for the insight. I looks like there is no clear winner in this category. It seems any of the approved Epoxies will work under most if not all conditions. The decisions seem to be based on cost and workability, not necessarily finished quality or durability. That is a good thing! Still thinking of going with MGS since, IMHO, this is a pretty important part of the aircraft. Thanks.

Hello all, Sorry to have to ask this question, but have been unable to find any mention of it in the archives. Which epoxy is best suited for the hot climate of Dallas, TX. I know it isn't as hot as Mojave, CA, been there, felt it, but it still gets pretty hot here in the summer. I have a feeling any of the approved epoxies are ok, just curious. Thanks. P.S. Haven't got the plans yet. Waiting for b-day excuse. Am leaning toward MGS but want to do my due-diligence on the homework front.

Hello PaulL, That is exactly what I was planning, except it was for general ventilation. The dust control was for sucking up dust and particulates at the source; i.e. when cutting and sanding the foam ro when finishing. I was thinking of using a shop vac connected to some 2" PVC pipe along the wall and connecting some 1" tees 1ft intervals with simple valves. kinda like those central vacumming systems you see in expensive homes. That way I just need to connnect some flexible tubing to the valve output and locate the other end near the work and it will suck up any particles before they get in the air. Just thinking at this point. I hate, I mean really hate, the sound of Shop Vacs. Later.

Hello all, New to the forum and starting the planning work for my cozy. I will be getting my plans in September! I will be doing the majority of my building in the garage. I plan to utilize one side for layups, sanding, and finishing. I will enclose this area with simple wall made up of 2x3's and plastic. I am wonder how much ventalation to include. I was thinking of two box fans, one on each end. The "intake" would be located in the inner most part of the garage with a conventional A/C filter. The "exhaust" would be located at the outer most part venting out of the garage under the door, also with a conventional A/C filter in front of it. Finally, since I live in Dallas, I will have a small window A/C unit for cooling. I also plan to utilize some sort of dust collection system to capture as much as possible at the source of sanding and foam conturing. Is this enough, too much, or too little for ventilation? I have direct access to the roof over the outermost 1/2 of the garage where I could install an exhaust fan, with filter, similar to bathrooms. Any advice or tidbits will be greatly appreciated.

Great, I was hoping that was the case. Now on to the Big Decision! Thanks again.

Kewl, thanks for the info. I was hoping that was the case. Thanks again.

Hello All, I know this may sound knit-picky, but how long does it take for Aircraft Spruce to deliver a set of plans for the Cozy MkIV? Is it a few days or a few weeks? Thanks.

Hello all, I am in the final stages of selecting either the Cozy Mk IV or the Aerocanard. I plan to do a plans build version with only a few pre-maid parts: landing gear and canopy. I was wondering if I choose AeroCad plans, can I use the same building material bundles that Aircraft Spruce and Wicks offer for the Cozy? Thanks.