steve

very well done, did you lose a shirt ?

me meet and greet you, not sure what day, fri to sat ? still open

360 286 6911

Whatever you do---make sure you leave some room for the gear to flex---or you will locally crinkle the fuselage.

thanks, the fitting must be installed into the caliper, then the Nilaflow will mount to the fitting. acssc sent the fitting with no glue or tape:mad:

the flaring I'm referring to is the part that covers the gear where it meets the tub. i got some pic (if there under 500mb)

looking for a web that shows flairing for main gear.

what do i seal the fitting that fits into the brake caliper with ?

i am trying to flair mine today and redo the naca and gear cover.

here a some pic from today. ty in advance

That look good rich, mine looked just like that ! befor i found the missing 40 layers of bid. the plans have you do 2 big layups then you do 2 more the next day. i must have gotten that day off...lol

so i did the 20 and 20 and there was just bearly room for the washer

i see in your pic what looks like 2 colors of glass on you tab (not 4),

is that right ? i can show you mine after i get some light up in the hell hole but my tab is 1/4" bigger than my thumb:p

not to get off topic but this has been bugging me for over a year.. 2 things

i see from your web that you cut the rear of the main bow for caliper clearance

? matco's right ? i see in the plans it said in front and horizontal.

i missed it and cut the rear as well, it seemed the only way to fit it, your thoughts?

next is(dont get mad) the bow, you stated 2x8" and all would be in tow

last year i followed your thinking and set the bow up on a table with the ends lifted to the 8 deg so the squares would define the trailing edge. then i marked the full side,flipped it and did the leading edge, but i noted that the marks were tapered and it would take the full 8" to get a good wing shape as you stated. the leading and trailing edge looked so close i tried flopping it opposite and redoing the square's to find center and it all lined up, the 1/2 way point was dead on from top to bottom....add 1" for brake line and your done.

Go to this page and see the pictures under explanation #3. It shows the tube set between the landing gear tabs and the bushing sticking out from the tube.

 

This page, first picture shows the bushing/bushing/tube/bushing/bushing arrangement set between the landing gear bulkheads.

 

This page, very last picture shows the bushing sticking out from the rectangular plates on the landing gear bulkheads.

i see from your web that you cut the rear of the main bow for caliper clearance

? matco's right ? i see in the plans it said in front and horizontal.

i missed it and cut the rear as well, it seemed the only way to fit it, your thoughts?

next is(dont get mad) the bow, you stated 2x8" and all would be in tow

last year i followed your thinking and set the bow up on a table with the ends lifted to the 8 deg so the squares would define the trailing edge. then i marked the full side,flipped it and did the leading edge, but i noted that the marks were tapered and it would take the full 8" to get a good wing shape as you stated. the leading and trailing edge looked so close i tried flopping it opposite and redoing the square's to find center and it all lined up, the 1/2 way point was dead on from top to bottom....add 1" for brake line and your done.

nope, the bushings stick out a 1/16" from the bulk heads.

the gear tabs are, at there widest point are glass

(because you covered them with glass when you installed the washers)

or you had wimpy tabs and the bushings at the end of the tubes stuck out past the washers/bid, i need to look at the m's i guess.

i have the same thing going on, i had a 1/2" wide tab and i put the tube inside the two tabs getting ready to do the last 2 layups(2bidover washers)(2bidover the tube) but the tube was to long ??? so i when back to look for my sharpy dots in the reading and there where no dots put next to "now add 20 layers outside and 25 layers inside over the 50 you just did"

shoot, now the tube is fine and glassed in and main is back in the plane and is very close in toe (1/16" from Axel to tip-of bl -0) both sides.

i just got my studs in the mail and need to ask.....there is a space in the bulk head (1/8-1/4) where the gear fits in. do i shim with a washer or did i miss some layups in the landing-gear-bulkhead ?

I never installed them. Instead. I added 5 layers of the BID tape (the stuff used for wing spars) to strengthen the hoop part.

 

I also added a bar across the mid section to support the gas spring to open/close the canopy.

 

Check out the installation at

 

http://www.iflyez.com/Canopy_Stay.shtml

 

Waiter

?

I just placed my first order with Aircraft Spruce.

 

Its just a composite practice kit, but I think I can officially say that I have started chapter 3.

 

I also spent the last few days cleaning up the "shop" and today I installed some florescent lighting, seems about 10 times as bright in there.

 

Tomorrow my brother is headed over to help me build a work table and spruce up the shop some more.

 

Also I started a blog to track my progress. I don't know how often I will update it but if anyone is interested in checking it out goto:

 

http://flyingbackward.blogspot.com/

 

If anyone has any suggestions about the blog or my progress please please feel free to let me know what you think.

 

Martin

i got stuck with the dumb things hope to get back 1/2 pm me if interested

heavy and bad to breath. rocks or pavers work good in the drive..

Unless you're the glass up onto foam, then you do everything in one fell swoop. Curing the micro on the foam first -- forming a hard skin and then sanding BEFORE applying the glass -- is known as 'hard shelling', which there's been a fair amount of discussion here and on the other lists/forums.

 

Personally, I don't believe that 'hard shelling' is better than the plans instructions. I recall reading about concerns relating to delamination.

HARD SHELLING

Hard shelling is a procedure (not recommended) of

covering foam with micro, letting it cure, and sanding the

surface prior to covering it with fiberglass.

Paul Kuntz, a Boeing engineer presently stationed in

England, did some experiments which he reported on the

internet 09/01/01. His conclusions were:

“After doing some two-layer uni layups over the hardshelled

sample surfaces, I attempted to peel the layups from

the foam to see how well they had bonded to the hard shell. I

found that where the hard shell was merely filling the usual

roughness in the foam surface, the glass remained bonded to

the hard shell and what failed was the foam beneath. That is, I

was breaking the foam itself when I stripped the glass… ..The

bad news was that everywhere the hard shell had filled in a

void, even as small as one-eighth inch in diameter and perhaps

one-sixteenth inch deep, and everywhere the hard shell had

been used to create even a very thin filler layer on top of the

foam, the glass skin popped right off the hard shell as clean as

a whistle… … Scary!…

My advice has been, and continues to be, stick to the

plans................

could you start with a water bound craft first ? i would love to build/buy a water landing cozy.

can you look at the pics and see what mite be the best spot for the butterfly ?

it looks like i need to scant it to the top of the t/b:confused:

down looks a little bissy with the exost and cs 124's.

darn to big 560kb and up. ill post on johns site if you want to see

ty in advance

the best way to pull out the cross strands is to cut the strand in the middle and then pull the outboard end out from each end. this will pull the strands in the same way you are squeegeeing and will not catch and drag the fiber the wrong way

, and that let my other hand lightly hold down the tape. gr8 where you don't have a lot of room to move.

looking very nice...

Why are the left/right sides of the seatback glassed and not the other bulkheads? Is it because of the thicker foam or just becuase this is the first part we make and Nat wanted to cover a lot of different techniques? or, is it a different answer I'm totally missing?

i ran out of wing tape so i moved on the the engine and started welding all the intake, runners, water stuff ,oil fill ,est.

my plane looks done but no lift yet, cash flow is....well you know !

i do have the brakes but no time to flip the bird over and drill the bow.

how fun......the old seat back, mine got floxed not micoed

read up on router templeting (fast clean) but not on the seat back.

just the 1/4" stuff (3/8) and move the arm rest up 1/2" so the cozy girl straks fit flat at the elbow (to late for me).

time for me to chime in here, got the fine about a year ago and i was very disappointed in the power, so today I'm at a show and they have the fine demo there and i tell the guy and even have the fine to show him and guess what?

the dam thing in veritable speed (i was at 1/3 power the hole time).

i now take back all the horrible things i said to you Chrissy;)

at some stage there is a mis print and it shows the left wing (dont be fooled)

That is incorrect and extremely bad advice. Whether there are air bubbles in the urethane or not is immaterial - the hot-wire goes through the urethane and releases isocyanurates.

 

You really shouldn't address issues on which you are not in the least conversant.