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steve

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Posts posted by steve

  1. Has there ever been an accident in a Cozy IV where it rolled over and came to rest upside down? Or within the accidents ground speed bleed off, flipped and had to withstand deceleration upside down?

    sq2000 is a cozy right ? flipped over onto its top (total-loss) and c6 incomplete for the pic ( didnt read the post on johnson)

    and a c6 is by all means a snaped neck but with long pins to hold it together. 30% lose of body movement with high hopes and a cane.

    post-474-141090170313_thumb.jpg

  2. i found the answer on a different forum..nn.

     

    i still see a few mistakes in the 3rd planes. are we calling up spruce to have them fixed or would that be a waist of time ?

    Nat emailed me and said there were no mistakes that he was a were of:irked:

    i just found one in the wing layup.

    " #1 layup is a 2 bid liner......

    next is layup #1 the first of many sheer web......

    just do 1, 2 times.....and lwa6 is 2 by 2.3 not 2 x 2 ;) easy to miss.

  3. I am going to perform tests myself with the plans foam and my local foam. Will test both peel-strength and compression. I have already tested that the plans foam are much more brittle and will break off / snap with less pressure than my local foam. If I press with a finger on the plans foam the cells will chrush leaving a big indentation while the same pressure on my local foam will result in a much smaller indentation as the cells will decompress slightly when the pressure is gone.

     

    What I need to know is the compressive-strength on the plans foam. This value is not mentioned anywhere as far as I have managed to search. I have found tech-specs of the Dow Styrofoam FB - but this is the small-cell foam as far as I know. Does anyone have the brand-name of the large-cell-foam? Or even better - does anyone know the values of the compressive-strength? My local foam - with the same density as the plans foam (2lbs/cu.feet) has a compressive-strength at 300kN/m2 (43.5 PSI). Styrofoam FB has a compressive-strength at 200kN/m2 (29 PSI) at the same density.

    could you plz tell me how to lay out the foam to do the psi test?

    i have both foams and can do it tonight.

  4. is this the one? some people have had the clear plastic one crack. I have been using them for 5 years with no problem

    http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/reservoirs.php

    Some of the master cylinder have different bore and stroke. Give Matco a call they will know which one goes on the cozy. I have the Matco triple brake with 1.5" pistons and I use the MC 4 with the longest stroke

    i have the matco 2 puck, what master cyl. do i want ?
  5. For someone with prior skills, that may be true.

     

    But you left out the time and money to build the hot wire tool, for one thing. And the fact that you need TWO people to do the cutting.

     

    I bought the cores and am very glad I did. The way I work, it saved me WEEKS. The idea of cutting all that foam, with the likelyhood that I'd mess up at least one part and have to order replacement foam and do it over again, and the effort of cutting a second set of parts backwards...and the skills needed to get the shape just right with no twist...

     

    Not for me. I bought the CNC cut parts, checked them against the plans, and started assembly. No time spent sanding the wire marks - there were none. No worries as to the shape or making a mistake in aligning a template...

     

    I'd say it was a very good investment! :cool:

    Nat messed up a wing core then added 1" to the center and recut it and it was like new :P
  6. For the Aussie builders - just thought Id pass on this info.

     

    I have not purchased anything from him, just passing on the details - might be handy for sourcing the odd bolt etc, other than waiting a week or two for stuff from the US.

     

    Regards,

    Andrew

     

    AN Hardware

    Looking for AN Bolts here is another source you may not have tried. See email below.

     

    Hi Everyone especially the Aussies.

    I have been busy over the last 4-5 months setting up a new business dedicated to Australian aircraft builders.

    It's called AN-BOLTS www.an-bolts.com.au

    I have built the site myself and so can easily make additions and changes at the drop of a hat so let me know what you think. Stock is arriving on a regular basis and am looking to expand the range so if you are after something not listed on the site, shoot me an email.

    Add it to favourites and give it a try next time you are ordering hardware.

    All the best.

    Darren Crompton

    AUSTRALIA

    My web site: www.kr-2s.com

     

     

     

    i loved the kr2 as a kid, was looking at his web site and he had build a tank for his plane but was useing a car tubing flar tool:confused: 45 deg and an aircraft fittings 37 deg..........has he still alive ? or can he just smell lots of gas on long trips ? hope he can read this and change out the lines

    i got a small cheep aircraft flair tool online for 49.00 usd with free shiping.

  7. Not me. I don't let that stuff eat at me. I found that it takes less time overall to go back and address the issue. I don't need another thing to think about.

     

    You minimize the risks as much as you can then you go.

     

    Have you minimized the risks?

    not yet but i will.
  8. As the photo below shows, someone has drilled through the FS-22 bulkhead in order to run lines through. Is this acceptable, and if not how could it be repaired?

     

    (I am leaning toward acceptable :( )

     

     

    [ATTACH]2800[/ATTACH]

    thats a sticky one, i would(mine, not yours) look at the attach layers to see they were 110%, then lay up 2 bid over the hole and over the tab so the tab would be covering the new lay-up and 2-3" over the side of fuz.

    BUT all bets are off if i could not clean the hole area.i dont like going over crappy bid tapes.

    ps. you would need to pad the canard to fit when done.

    as marc is a little over the top and im a little under, you have to fly it like tman said. its not my butt on the line.

    i have 10 things on my bird i dont like and at some point i said "this will do"

    even now as i type i still worry about them.......so keep track of the "O well's"

    and add them to your pre-flight check list.;)

  9. it looks like the N# can go on any plane.......(see 210 below)

     

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  10. Will do, good idea to do more practice on cheap stuff first. I burned through my first order of 4130 tubing practicing on the bigger tip.

     

    I have more 4130 now, and its tempting to start working with it.

    you get the spendy rod to go with that 4130 ? like metals weld better and crack less. :P
  11. Thanks, guys.

    I've been looking at various solutions on the turtleback but I haven't come so far that I have given it much thought. I have more or less decided to go the FHC-route, I have an E-racer "nearby", and I will study how he have done the hinges.

    my hinges are in the removable dash cover.

    so i can remove(or install) the fhc with the pull of two piano hing pins

  12. i have both small and large and in the testing i have done, there is nothing that the eye can see. the peel on the small cell seams to hold up better them the large. but it is so close you could change the results with room heat. so i could not find a difference.

  13. Steve there are two types of wing templates. the stock long ez and cozy 3 and 4 have a trailing edge that is bent up at the inboard foam block. the Eracer, aero canard and sq 2000 the trailing edge is straight. the angle on the forward edge of the spar mounting surface does have a slight angle change at the outboard block because the spar is tapered at a different angle then the outboard wing taper. just make sure that both wings have the same angle.

    that is what it looks like on my other wing.

    So denice must have the eracer jigs?

    i have cut the end block lose and will match it to my other wing.

    thanks lynn

    ps. will be in your neck of the woods on the 16th to the 29, you boys need help building anything ?

  14. i think because of the way the paper m's are that the jig 5 (the short one) opens up as it gets wet, and some how my box in storage must of got very moist:mad: i put all the wood jigs side by side and that jig is open 1/4" at the top, in short it lets the end foam(next to spar) lift up in comparison to the rest of the wing. easy fix now, not so easy after you skin and then find it.

    builder tip, cut the jigs and stack them together, you will see the need to trim just a smidgen off them.

     

    ps. if you look in the back ground you will see the other 1/2 tip setting up.

    the wing has bin cut at the sheer web (good eye)

  15. one more thing, i cut my wing and fixed a offset (my jigs suck).

    i have one more cut left to do.

    can some one tell me if they can lay a straight line down the top of there wing ? look at the pic, you can see 1/4" of air under the bar, bad or good?

    post-474-141090169634_thumb.jpg

    post-474-141090169646_thumb.jpg

  16. Steve,

    You set up the Vert Stabilizer winglet foam blank on top of the 8" block so that it sights -in line up- with the sightline of the long line of the front wing LE. Then you sand off the front of the 8" block so that the winglet LE and the wing LE meet. First though, the plans vert stabilizer winglet is reduced in size by cutting off the lower 4 to 6 inches. I did 5 I think. .

    all that is true, but there is something missing.

    if you go back to the plans set up and tape out the top of the stab, the tip will be 4" (?) back from where you have yours now because you did away with the setback at the root. so to get a good flow on the LE you will change the angle so the stab is canted rearward more than stock. ill draw it

    clear as mud right ?

    i just think the winlet with the most set back will have the less drag

    we will need to barow some wings to tell..lol marc?

    do you think we could get marc to fly are wings on his plane ?

    post-474-141090169623_thumb.jpg

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