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steve

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Posts posted by steve

  1. is there washout in the cozy wing ?

    if you order a flat wing will the washout still be there ?

    what is washout in a wing ? and is it twist ?

    will i have it in my cozy and how do i check it ?

    is there other places to look for my answer's ?

  2. i have drilled the top outer bolt hole, and have it snug.

    i have lifted the wing tip so the water line is dead on the forward LE.

    i can see a smidgen(3/16") of the wing sticking down past the spar root.

    i think this is the best i can get it.

    i will now drill the lower/outer and inner bolt hole.

    PS. i had to grind out a little glass to get the nut on, any tricks to getting glass back in side the hole ? or will flox do it ?

  3. just set up the wings so i can drill the spar.

    after setting up a water level it looks like the wing fits the spar fine, but the water is off by 1/2" Wing tip low.

    if i fix the wing so the water line 17.4 is right then i have the root of the wing a little lower then the spar 1/4".

    can i build the plane with the wing tips 1/2" low ?

    or do i fill the strake ?

  4. STeve

     

    Corona is where I flew my Longeze for the first time. They let me take off there but I had to land at chino. Also drinking a lot of soda probably is not good for you either. STeve

    yes you are so right, trying to cut back on soda as well (on doing so good)

    and coffee,

    lynn, you and the boys working on anything over chrisX that i could help on ?

  5. first mistake you talked to the FAA. but you know that now. and those pictures that you had of the beginning of the build. you know the ones that got burned up in the fire. and the others that were looted from the house after the fire. with the receipts. the only way they know it was not owned by you is because someone told them. to bad you don't remember the name of your partner on this project. you know the one that you have known all your life and is now deceased. the same one that they would not know about unless someone tells them. so the local FAA knows about a vari eze that has no owner and some guy is trying to get it registered. I don't think they know about the new plane that someone and their wife build over 51% of called a eze vari. the one that they are trying to register in their wifes name with the help of an out of state DAR .

    lol, what plane,who said that, and where was he going ? what day is this ?..

    Lynn, you crack me up, good answer.

  6. Metal Superstore in Lakewood (I think) should have Aluminum and 4130. Probably not cheap but available. If they don't have it they can send you in the right direction.

    QUOTE]

    10.00 wicks,100.00 MS....nope

    try the store next to the old boeing surplus(kent) good price but still 2 times the price of ACSS plue you pay a 25.00 cut charge for under 12-24 feet

    if they dont have scrape

  7. You NEVER want to put a structural fiberglass layer over micro. The possibility of lamination and failure is too great. The manuals are clear on this. The less sanding you do into the top layer of glass the better. It's almost better to not sand down into the top layer at all. That IS the structure.

    true, but you must abrade the old surface, so the statement is worded a pinch to the unsafe side

    "The less sanding you do into the top layer of glass the better" so no sanding is best ?....can we say..peel-and-fly :P

    a little sanding with 36# over the hole plane is what i think i have read over and over again from are designers but you knew that....he he:D

  8. I've been really picking up steam on chapter 4 and only have the front side of the IP, the landing gear bulkheads and firewall to do.

     

    I have a new question. On some of the layups, specifically f-22, 28 and the IP, I had a helluva time keeping excess expoxy from running off and then under the foam. For F-22 and 28 there was only a bit and I easily sanded it off but on the IP I've got a spot that's about 9 sq. in. Do I really need to get that off or can I just rough it properly with 30grit and glass over it?

     

    as usual, thanks for any input.

    some of us do it with templets and a router, so all the over-spill is cut off

    a fast clean way to do all the bulk heads. no cutting, no sanding,

    you do all your fussing with masinit 1/4".

  9. I hardshell both sides prior to glassing. End of problem.

     

    Foam that has not been sealed with micro can wick up a lot of epozy adding weight. Think of the micro-slurry as you would sanding sealer.

    hard shell all the parts? you mite end up with a heavy plane that you wont like to fly, have you ever grabed on to the side of a bulk head and tryed to remove the glass ? you mite find its as easy as peep ply.
  10. Steve .... not sure I understand the question but I'll take a shot at it.

     

    My layups were left long. If you look at the pictures you can see where I added a trim strip to the top of the form/jig. I extended the layup up and over that to help keep everything in place until it was in the vacuum bag. Of course once the vacuum was applied, it all stayed in place.

     

    Once I got to the point of adding the forward face, I pulled the trim strips and (using a Fien) cut everything flush to the edge of the original jig/mold.

     

    Is that the question you had?

    we have the same spar ? i remember haveing 3 sides done and it calling for a large 3 layer thick uni layup going inside of the spar...
  11. I used masking tape to mark the places where I was cutting the UNI (a little wider than what I needed) and cut down the middle of the tape and left it on. The tape made the UNI much more managable while I was working on it. When I did my scissors trim at the end, it was removed with the trim.

     

    Worked for me..... but again, it was a second attempt and I ended up 9 lbs lighter in the end.

    i did you do the inside lay-up one at a time ? and if you did, how did you get the strands straight on the second and 3rd layer? mine stuck like glue
  12. I documented my process on my website:

    http://www.n200lz.com/Chapters/BuildersNotes.aspx?Chapter=14

     

    I vacuum bagged mine.

    If you are going to use the plans method, I would suggest adding MDF for the side that becomes the bottom vs. the 'sticks' method. It is a flat plane until you get to the center piece which (IIRC) on a Long-EZ was 18 inches. So three pieces..... an 18 inch mid section an two outer.

     

    As Waiter said, the additional layups for the Infinity gear should be done at this time and is documented in my processes.

    i did the layups for the gear and will be paying for it with 1/4" of micro on my strakes:mad: o well, to late to try and un-do it now

    on the inside big layup (uni times 3 i think) lay out one layer full size, wet then the next layer est. over 4-7 mill plastic, then place foil over the hole mess and cut one inch bigger then the inside span of the main spar.

    get help or cut in the center, and lay it in the 14' hole (remove the plastic prier to install). after you press and scwiggee it it you can remove the foil or let it stay. some mite say to put peel over the glass then the foil to sponge up the extra epoxy, but i just pull the foil and use my bondo knife and fuss with it till dark..lol

    start 6 hours befor you think you will start(i did not do it the way i type, but wish i new then what i know now). i was in tears trying to get my uni to shape after pulling it out of shape, the foil should stop that

  13. Not on the stock COZY MKIV. The spring is added IF you install the hidden rudder belhorns - NOT with the stock plans system.

    is there a # for the spring ? i tried the 4" x .35 OD .050 wall,

    it feels like it needs to be at lest two times stronger ?

  14. After the Hurricane Katrina, many states adopted new building codes requiring a single header to go completely over both doors clear to the wall. The single header may to be put in anyways. So structurally one door and two doesn't matter. If this is the case, building the center column to be removed is very doable. Maybe not easy done, but you'll be doing it rarely.

     

     

     

    If two single doors are required, then simple get wider doors. They're available in about any width and height you want. Heights are avialable in 3" increments and widths in about anything you need, but normally 1 or 2 foot increments. I don't know you'd need to get a cozy on it's wheels, but on an incline should be doable.

    one more thing, with the cozygirls strakes or with the mod i did, there will be a saw needed. but dont remove the center! remover the left or right outer side. 15 min and it can be put back(not brick).
  15. ... Yes, I didn't mean to imply anything negative for this particular idea... like I said I hope it works out.

    i sat with 40 people and 4 used them at much improvement from the props they had been using...but what do they know !

    them's pilot types cant be trusted:p

  16. Thanks for the reply, Yes I believe what was dry is the micro and I have not sanded through layers of fiber glass, there are some existing areas that will need some repair though.Are there any composite builders here in houston tx that would be able to view and give me an opinion. Im still not sure how to post a picture,tried to click manage attachments but nothing is happening.Maybe I can do better with photo bucket!

    you need to hit save at the very bottom,there is a save above but that would save just the type and not the photo

    do you have a tweety page or a face plant book:p

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