steve

looks good Mr Normin, but is that primer i see ? on the hole bottom?

what year did you start ?

3-r sales (i got the landing bolts there aswell)

I also sharpened the pin, but not symetrically - IOW the "point" is off-set. This, in combination with a very low-speed drill is what worked for me.

 

Here's a hint for getting the little washers in - put little release-tape tabs on the washers so you can hold them in place while your helper guides the pin in.

 

I'm not sure I would recommend the use of a compound that has grit in it, though. Not sure how you'd get the stuff out so as not to cause excess wear on the hinges. For lubrication, I put Marvel Mystery oil on a rag and ran it over the hing pin before inserting it.

i used rubbing compound and a drill, it will brake down to fine then wash with water.

vote .............gu out

I took the PDF files to 3 different printers, Kinko's and two companies that print blueprints and got three different sizes. Kinko's - was off from 1/32" to 1/8", one other company(A) was off by 1/4"(both off length wise). The last one(B) suggested not using a laser printer but an ink jet, it was almost perfect using the tic marks Adrian provided. Company (B) also mentioned that they can adjust the PDF file so that the tic marks will align perfectly at the time of printing, they do that a lot. They mentioned that several variables come into play each time you print large format like this, type of paper, moisture, etc. Both (A) and (B) said having a .dwg file would make no difference in the end result when printing. PDF is less expensive.

 

When comparing the actual templates with the OpenEZ's, Kinko's and company (A) was off in the shear web from 1/16" to 1/8" in the width, depth was fine. Company (B) was a perfect match.

 

The other issue, the canard profile is off by quite a lot as you can see in the attached picture. Bottom profile, is from the OpenEZ plans.

the top is a lot like my cozy

Winglets - Vertically Oriented, VHF Comm. Put one in each winglet, that way your covered for Comm1 and Comm2 (Comm transmitters cannot share same antenna)

 

Canard - Horizontally Oriented - Nav, is best, but, this will also work as a Comm. Your range will be significantly reduced because of the orientiation. It will work, I use it for my comm2 (I didn't install antennas in both winglets, and I no longer have a Nav). it works OK for ATIS, ground control, anything that is close.

 

Gear leg - Loran (No longer used, but connects to my AM/FM radio.

 

Waiter

thanks , i'll follow your lead !

i wanted to make jacks bell-crank and there is no size, just the work "full size"

and i asked my printer to print full size and it did:p

where did you cut the nylaflow off at ?.....flush both ends ?

i have the outer skin on and have drawn the location of the future cut-out of the rudder on the inboard side.

the plans call out a 90deg cut from the leading edge of the rudder but the pencil sketch from jack shows it cut to follow the horizon. i will follow jacks way.

i lost 25q in's from the rudder, because of the blend.

so i added 1" from top to bottom (plans have the with at 7.5, i made it 8.5).

and its 40" high so i added 40q in" ?

what ant. did you put in yours ?

i have the cable in and awaiting.................................

My recommendation would turn on which 3" section of the antenna you cut out ~ end, middle, first? 3" off he end shouldn't hurt much ~ just make it your Nav-2 or something. Your primary is GPS anyway isn't it? ) If it's a critical section, you might want to bury a new antenna under one ply of glass.

Now I've already told you more than I know ... Jim

RST reading said to soder a 14(romex) gage down the foil to complete it.

what ant will go in the winglet left and in the right ?

com,vor,elt,gps ?

Just to post a couple of pics of Jack's and my work on my wings over last weekend to show the spar cap assemblies since many are wondering about the blended cores structure. Veru easy to accomplish and is now ready to cut out the rudders.

Yes, I am not just "winging" it...but am working with the brightest in our community. Looking at a "system" using oversize wet strake leading edges, longer original canard etc to fulfill my 540 powered Cozy with regards to Cg and performance across the board.

Thanks, Marc, Jack, Chris, Lynn for all your help and input.

i don't see the rudder root end is cut yet, will it be horizontal ?

or will it be 90 deg from the LE (rudder) ?

will (did) you add to the overall size ?

any chance you know how long your bell crank is (bolt-to-bolt,est) ?

did you do any rudder work be for you skinned the top ?

how can the te be kinked if all the wood jiggs are cut at the same spot ? ie 7"" up from the table ???

your right steve, but your TE is not right ! sand it flat and you good to go

there is no kink in the TE of the cozy but there is in the foam leading away from the TE. so much care will be needed to get it flat

if you did it right you will have flat at the same time you have strate.

if you are close you should have flat and convect or curved

then just sand the TE at the root block till its flat

That explains it Steve! My trailing edge is dead-on straight in planform, but rises about an inch starting at BL 67.5.

 

Thanks for the explanation! Much appreciated!

i found the kink ! the te was not straite (close).

as the thread went from end to end i could see there was a bow in it

to flaten it out, i needed to sand mostly on the jc1(root block)

and as i sanded it, it got lower (becase the TE is a big V at one end)

So, if you want you kink gone just file your TE in or out .

ok, clear as mud right.....heres a pic

you can see from the bottom right, how sanding will lower the TE .

this will not work if you have a top skin on

this repair is done when you remove the TE hump.

Steve fly over and pick me up I will help:D

It is to far to drive for a weekend. STeve building on

Wow, i would but now i have mico up to my you-know-what...

As far as I know I cut the aileron in the correct place, but I guess I'm going to have to check. Isn't BL 67.5 the root rib where the linkages go?? If this is where the kink is supposed to be, then I'm totally hosed, and have no idea what I've done wrong.

i have the kink about 67 (the inner block of foam outboard seam)

i will check wing#2 tonight (glassing side one today) and see where the kink ends up, i will be there to help put it where i want it !

dont worry about it, you can press it out (or in) with heat and clamps

Cool. Next time I am up in the Tacoma area I will swing by and pick em up. I would like to see how those wings are comming along too.

layup glass starts in 30 mins......hint,hint,

I hope you are talking about my bolts!?

yuppers, longEZ landing bolts

your bolts are in....landing gear

plane site...

you don't decrease you stall speed, you decrease your margin to stall speed, instead of rotating at 1.2x stall speed, you rotate at 1.1 (fake values, for example) once you rotated, it's the same deal as before, same stall speed, same everything, and by doing that you do increase your angle of attack on the ground compared to a standard landing gear arrangement

 

i was confusing attack and incidence... in french, angle of attaque and angle of incidence is the same thing, the angle of incidence in english is the wedging of the wing (calage) in french...

 

From the stagger EZ website :

"The aircraft will “sit” at a +1.5 degree angle on the ground which should allow for a “shorter” takeoff roll as the EZ is being pushed down the runway by 190 HP"

http://www.wrightaircraft.com/Stagger_EZ/body_stagger_ez.htm

we sat at RR and looked at TO roll's and we could see the planes that would lift off early because of the aoa to the ground the higher the canardthe faster they fly(nutting was helped by this posting)

Hi guys

I don’t know what happened with this thread, I couldn’t find it any more so I came to a different area “General construction”

I hope the ones that were advising me about what to do with this Varieze 0-200 mount with a bent tube can see this post.

The mount was mounted so I don’t think any other tube was affected; I took it off to take better pics and have it ready for the repair.

Another question is: Is this material so fragile that can not be bent back to the right position? It looks very flexible.

I was thinking after bending it back; have it inspected with Magnaflux if it’s not more expensive than changing the tube.

Here are the pictures

 

Forward view – Upper right bent tube – Upper left good tube

[ATTACH]2965[/ATTACH][ATTACH]2966[/ATTACH][ATTACH]2967[/ATTACH]

bolt it down then build a pee-vee, ill draw it faster then i can type it.....ok here it is as you can see the end is very importent so you can bend a little bit at a time moveing up and down the tube, spent 10 min not 10 sec and you will be good to go (we hope) or pay for shiping and i can weld on a new tube for free (well, a ride)

G'day

 

welcome ideas and constructive comments....

 

Thanks for looking;

 

Jeff

trailing edge.... your wing looks good so you may not need anything, but mine needed help. i used Angle aluminum 6' and some other scrap to hold up the trailing edge.

but remember the "dip". when all was flat there was lots of pressure because i was trying to fores the TE into the rough shape. if i just clamped the first 2 feet or so, then clamped the next 2/3rds all was well.

trim back the sher so there is no buildup (but you new that).

after you lay it flat, i use thread (unbrakeabl) then i pull the thread over the wing and put 1/16th shim under both ends, that way i can see how flat it is.

if a can fit the same size shim under the thread in the center of the wing then i'm happy

4-8 was my order.

shipping was/is a big killer

50.00 dollar washer, if you know what i mean.

order a roll of bid and a roll of uni

i payed 100. for a semi to drop off my longerons (10feet long)

cut the dumb things (ups is 8 feet i think)

a big bucket full of an bolts would be cool in the start as-well

order extra 7 ply

find a 4'x4' of 1/8" 2024t3 locally (1/4" 2'x2')

buy a started cozy save big(not as much fun as starting from scratch)

lots more if you are moding it(strkes, FHC, wider,longer,rotary,est)

I bought a set of plans from a guy up north, after they where shipped to me, guess what? they where not complete! My fault for trusting! Anyway does any one have a copy of Ch 4 pages 1 & 2? Also I need canard pusher Ch 71. Thanks for any help!

it would help if we new what plane, i have a cozy4 with ch4 page1 and 2:confused:

and by ch71, do you mean cp 71? (googal)

i think thats what i did. i had my spar in the plane and needed to invent a way to drill it.

BIG STEVE, any chance you could slow down a bit, we cant see a thing in all this dust !

(looking good buddy)

stupid question:

¿is possible buy and fly one starship today?

nope, i think 3 are left . the rest are boxed up and will never be for sale.

they were sold with a unlimited warranty and there for were all(most) sold back to the manufacturer:sad: