steve

Hello all. I have recently aquired a varieze that was abandoned and left for dead. The over all apperance was very drab, but I decided to give it shot and see if this bird can fly again. The fiberglass is dried out and the previous micro was cracked and peeling. I have spent about 2 weeks sanding off all the dead material and geting down to a good solid surface. I would like to get some experienced advice about this project. Is it possible to revive old fiberglass and what should be my first concerns with respect of getting back to a workable surface. I would like to post some pictures but it appears this forum wants a url to post from, is it possible to post from my hard drive? thanks in advance for any help or assistance given.

but only 499 kb per shot.

as per your post, i think you mean to say "revive the micro/paint not the glass work, because if the glass is dry then it was junk and never should have been flying. just don't cut the top glass over 50% and balance the ailerons and elevators, do a wb. clear as mud right ?

you should know how they are built so you can see if something is bad and going to kill you(or me on the ground). find someone close that can oversee some of the repair in the start then rock and roll.

if you have already sanded to much, it can be fixed easy.

lots of help can be found on this forum for that bird (plans,layups,parts,est.)

wow, it sure looks big !

i have my last wing on the floor doing the rear spar in the am and the aileron in the pm. soon i will be as you and mount them:D

Those bolts are not stripped out and will not be replaced with clickbonds. I have had those bolts covered since day one. I also welded welding rod onto the heads of the bolts and then floxed them in. They wont turn either. STeve

good time to replace the striped out bolts in the fire wall with click bonds;)

I'm not part of the cozy collective, but am glad I have properly fastened joints on my ailerons and rudder hinges.

 

Please don't tell me you're doing this for aesthetics...

i had the bolts in as per plans and was ready to mico but i could tell already that i was going to have to remove the bolts in order to do that:mad:

so i thought to my self "if i had used jd's bolts I'd be micoing now:p "

so in just a minute or two had the click bonds in and the bolts out.

(I'm sure they are stronger then the stock application when it comes to riping out)imo

I am getting ready to mount my ailerons and rudders and will be using click-bonds from Infinity.

 

I had planned to utilize three (3) click bonds for the 4" rudder hinges, four (4) click bonds for the 6" rudder and aileron hinges, and 5 clickbonds for the 8" aileron hinge.

 

However, in looking over a few websites, including the Infinity website, I see where they used two click bonds on the small 4" hinges and only three click bonds on the larger 6" and 8" hinges.

 

Is this right? Is this what the "Cozy Collective" would suggest?

 

Thanks.

3=6" 2=4" 3=8"

so most just trade an3's for the click bonds. (i did) same for rudder..7

i think its mico pin hole, if the mico is to thick and you blade it on then remove as much as you can, you are left with the fruits of your labor and in your case not all the fome was filled. then you got it wet with epoxi and the epoxi filled the holes giving you the look you see in the pic.YMMV

try a layup with thiner mico (creamy penutbutter) and i think(baring what others has said) it will go away

sounds like good old fish eye

put a drop of killer in your gun and re-shoot.

look at the hole with a magnuifin glass and see if you see the basecoat to confirm.(pin hole will be much deeper)YMMV

Christmas came early this year. My materials for chapters 4 through 7 arrived today after being on back order for over a month.

 

Most everything seemed to be in good shape, but some of the foam has a few gouges or the edges are kinda pushed in. My biggest concern is that two or three of the pieces of foam have black smudges on them...possibly from greasy hands at the warehouse. Anyone think this will be a problem?

Prior to the seminar, Charlie Gray had got hold of a reject canard that

we looked at and Burt agreed that it should not be installed on an

airplane. We decided to do an informal static load test to

destruction. So we called for people weighing about 175 lb. With Burt

positioning each person for correct load distribution, we proceeded to

try to fail the canard. We got 18 people (not an easy task, very

little room!) on it before we finally got a few minor cracks. At this

point, Burt calculated we had 11.54 g's on it, and it still would have

got the airplane home. It did not fail catastrophically. Someone must

have photos of the 18 people on it. We didn't get one, unfortunately.

pic, would be nice. first guess would be not, you can work around it,or clean it. chapter 4 is seat back and ? bulk heads. it would be hard to mess them up.

if the grease is .05 of the part and will only allow 45% bond, so you will lose .000001% so in short you seat back is 120% - .000001 = 119.00001%

this math will not work on all parts. but its safe to say your seat back will still fly. remember this.....in 2-10 years your butt will fly this ! so do what feels right to you, not me (i have 10 in my plane i bet)

very cool.....

if you have a layup done on a scrap piece how do you look under it?))

Steve, do your build in the proper order. The seat back layup is much easier outside the fuse. : ))

i cant find the thread, but it was stated that the ailerons were cut 90 deg from the TE so they would clear the wing as they moved up and down

(and have a small low-drag gap).

last month a had asked that very same question about the rutter cut out:confused:

no reply, from the forum so i guessed

and based on that thread my cut will not work.

or will it...........

.

 

#3. Why bother? The winglet doesn't see enough force on it to require a thick spar. The plans method of using BID layups seems to work fine. I'd rather not add weight.

when you the sheer web, jig like the plans and support the end of the winglet

and lay up the hole web at one time.[\end]

i did the bottom tapes as one, but cut them 3 feet longer for the stab and let them dangle until i got the wing part done then trimmed and did the stab.

but it was a lot of work and later just tapered the wing tape then the next night i did the stab and tapered over the wing tape. doing it in two parts was a lot smarter.

#3. it was tested to 175knt in a full slip (can we say the force of a sail boat)

if you blend it, there is no way to keep the top and bottom skins from coming apart as you load the winglet. the old way has inside layups to do that very thing. that is why i did the sher web (I-BEAM), you have something holding it together. the rest is simple. i don't know about Jacks but mine is the same hight as per plans and has the same "wrt "mark. but if i stand back and look, i thing it has a one deg tilt inward.

PS. Marc has never seen my plane or my work on it, and has not helped build it. there are lots of builder that have seen it and " all " of them do not need or want a ten foot pole.*end of rant*

4000 and 10 hour build....very cool

Had to go check our drawing, ours are 4130

the bearing is recessed and will need to be supported on both sides.

girls, do you sell a .2 to go with the .6 spacer ? one for both sides ?

or do you just washer one side ?

(i cant believe jerry tryed to swipe my thread, probably a boring flt anyway:thumbsup: )

.Unless a builder either follows a proven structural methodology or full Limit Load static proof testing, I would not touch their aircraft with a blended winglet implementation with a 10-foot pole, much less fly in it. My reading of Mr. Parkins' actions along this line put his airplane into this category (not withstanding any other issues I've got with it).

 

 

the blend i did turns out to be the same you told jack to do

did you forget what you said?

Steve,

 

P. 16-1 has it in the Schedule C box

 

They're correct

that jerry guy just cant be trusted, did you know he lives in a tent ?

I'm working from memory here, (Plans are at the hangar), but aren't those the little 1/8"-1/4"spacers made from tubing and go up against the canard push rod/canard attach point?

If so, use 4130.

 

I remember having a dickens of a time finding the drawing on them as well.

 

Of course, I could be totally wrong.....

the two thin al bkts that bolt to the rear of the wing have a bolt(an4) that holds the bearing. this spacer is inside the bkts.

mud,clear as

was looking for the cs 131 in the book and it said to look on page 16-3, so i did. and there is nothing there:yikes:

is this mistake # 32 or did i miss something ?

CG's can you help me plz:o

is it 2024 ? 0r 4130?

on my seat back it looked like i had lots of air.

it turned out to be epoxy bubbles.

as my wet layup was squeegeed out, it mix with the micro.

if you have a old dry scrap, try looking under the layup.

on the brite side, your seat will be just fine as is:D

but do find out whats going on !

I used Lexan for my strake windows. Over the years, theyve become scratched and dirty. I find that I can't buff out the scratches and now wish I had used regular plexiglass.

 

Any thoughts on this?

 

Waiter

sand it with 1000 for about a day (this is the last chance you'll have to remove any flaw at all) then go up in grit IE 1500, 2000,4000...polish with a fine grit. all rags need to be cotton with no thread or seams.

bad windows may need 400 but you'll be sanding with 600 for two days to remove the 400 .

I'm confused, but thats nothing new. What foam were you taking OFF of the seat-back? Maybe OUT of but not OFF of? Why are you removing foam off of something there?

Also, the flox fillets are used when you are stripping the seat back [and bulkheads] to the fuse sides with the 2" BID tapes.

and you(we) carved out the foam and replaced it with flox (but you know that:p ).

What is the best way to prep a flox or micro outside corner. I had to really work at it to get all the foam off of the cured glass on the seatback.

What are others doing on this?

i go fast untill i hit white micro then i slow way down and cut away at it a little bit at a time. i have other air tools that work, but this is the best for me.

tool town and its 150.00

2.conceited and overconfident of knowledge but poorly informed and immature

sounds just like you:D

fun to read..............now wheres the photo bub