cncdoc

Chris (and csccs) My opinion is that a 2004 AIM book would be of more value with the older Jep flying manual. A comprehensive look at current FARs is available on the internet at at the FAA gov site along with to-the-minute updates, including the old FARs and which new ones replaced them. So any new FAR book will contain marginally contemporary information. Fortunately (for PP student pilots) most of the new stuff is about the security issues and the ever changing Part 135. So I would use the Jep manual with a new AIM and use the internet for current FAR info. But that's just me. I'm sure there are other opinions among us pilots here..... Kevin

The basics are the same, but some of the info pertaining to FARs is already out of date in the 1999 version. The 1996 version would probably get you the basics, but you need a 2004 AIM to supplement/replace out of date info on airspace, airport operations TFRs and other updates - especially since 9-11. My brother just got his Private license and he had a 2000 Gleim's manual, but he still had to use a current (then 2003) AIM. Hope this helps.. Kevin

Hi Jim, I have a suggestion for helping us customers here in the SE USA to buy materials from your GA location. As we have come to find out, there is an additional $20 per box (hazmat)charge for shipping MGS (and probably other) epoxy resin. In order to find out how many gallons fit into a box, you have to place an order and see what the shipping department says as to cost. Is there any way we can get the cost for shipping before we order (including hazmat charges)? Also, MGS 285 is in short supply in GA and more is expected in about a month and a half. If we want to buy from you until then, it will have to come from CA, which adds more to the shipping. (Do you see where I'm going with this?) I am not sure how many, but there are quite a few builders here in Florida and I think I can speak for most of them when I say that we would rather not pay for shipping from California (on anything). I was speaking to one of your sales reps and it appears most of the GA location gets it's stock from CA. Logistically, that's not very cost effective, especially when there is a MGS epoxy plant IN Georgia. (Ask Tangee, I talked to her about it) Just tryin' to help out. So, how 'bout it? Can you hook a "brutha" up? Kevin Ready for Chapters 10-14 Lotsa Moxey, NO Epoxy.. :cool:

Not being new to flying, but being new to airplane building, I too had a lot of questions. I did the research and read the plans and still didn't get an answer. So, I asked a few APs and some here on the forum and some in person to other builders. I got different answers. Some were a little condescending. But as the one asking, I could accept or reject the answers. But, lacking experience, what could I base my rejection of certain answers? On emotion? On the way the answer was presented? Allow me to offer this: Many have climbed Mt Everest, I am sure that if you asked each one what they would recommend, you would get a common thread of similar answers interspersed with personal preference and different experience. I am sure you would even get at least one "gruff" response. What's the difference between climbing Mt Everest and building an airplane? Building an airplane takes longer. But you can still get killed if you do it wrong. Some take that aspect of it VERY seriously. (like your Dad when you were a kid. He seemed a little "gruff" about that crossing the street "thing") Later on in life you appreciate his intensity as it may have saved your life. As the ones asking, we can accept or reject answers and make our decisions. "A wise man has the power to reason". Consider the source. Avoid personal confrontation (attacks) and allow for some interpretation because of the medium and remember that the guy who has been there and back probably knows a little more than the guy just starting out. He may not know how to express himself (or herself) but if you read the answer, you can learn something (even if it's the fact that he is a jerk). Then, as you build, your opinion of other's opinions will grow in respect and the words you have to eat will lessen. In any case, if you don't enjoy doing something you don't have to do, don't do it. If you really enjoy doing it, then ignore the naysayers and keep on keeping on. my 2% of a buck..

I was into body and paint for awhile (did a few Vette clips, LOTS of fiberglass) The only problem I had with "long johns" (the long 2.5" x 16" straightline sander) and the DA (dual action 6" orbital sander) was that I really couldn't tell how the finish was until I sprayed some primer or water on the surface to minimize the dulling effects of the dust left on the part. Sometimes I was surprised at the subtle waves caused by a little too much pressure. It was good for large areas that needed more than .30" to .125" material (resin) removed. But to preserve the integrity of "flow" over large areas the staightline sander was angled and ran over the length of the area being repaired. Then there was repeat episodes of priming and blocking.... I have one and I intend to use it (later) Lots of things show up after a good layer of glossy coating (can I get an "amen" Dust?). I also remember getting in a hurry caused a lot of problems. Did anyone see that industrial dust collector in the Harbor Freight flyer for about $129.00?? OK...I must be off...

I'd go to Kinkos and make copies of the templates (they get cut up and PASTED and WASTED afterwards) but that's just me. The rest of it is pure inspiration, perspiration and exhalation followed by jubilation and other 'tions..... knock yerself out....

OK. I respect the man. And his credendtials. But when I say his name (never on vain) is it with a Zeee sound (long e) or a Zye sound (long i) ???? just curious.

2 things: 1. Different epoxies have different ratios for mixing, some are more suited to measure by weight, others by volume. 2. If the pump (Sticky stuff) had some sort of CD player or light show or SOMETHING that would make this simple device worth the price ??? $$$. I dunno, it just seems a little high for what it is. I'll have to bite the "bullet" and buy one some day, because after searching the internet for another usable pump, I couldn't find one. I DID find a few sites where guys have made their own pumps from condiment pump from the restaurant industry at a fraction of the cost. But hey, if price were an object, would I even be building an airplane? That's one question you NEVER ask (even rhetorically) the GIB! ....back to "pumping" the wallet...

well, it works, but the text entry hangs occasionally, (probably due to my bandwidth handicap). I like the idea: Upside: Realtime communication with fellow builders, technical tips while-U-wait etc.. Somewhere to go when Epoxy is drying. Downside: One more thing to take time away from GIB with the usual consequenses (so use sparingly) and person with info may not be there when I am. Potential for childish word battles and the like. Overall good outweighs bad (my opinion) What's my share of the fee? Kevin

I would like to use a CS prop, but I'm hoping a year or so from now the other shoe will drop (instead of other airplanes) and there will have been advancement made in the semi-non-FAA-certified CS prop arena. I'd like to think that the term "experimental", referring to the Cozy, is just a technicality. When it comes to a propeller (air slicing device), I want someone else to get all the experimenting out of the way before I lash it to my backside and point myself in harm's way (anywhere from up is down). There is enough trouble with known good prop systems. I am keeping an eye out for changes though. CS propeller equipment would complete the rotary ensemble, especially if it is as light as they say it is... If you change your mind, it's one of the last things to do and a retrofit is not that big of a deal...

I have to admit, when I got into the build, I was predisposed to finding an improvement for every aspect of it. The one improvement I thought would give me an edge, would be the use of carbon fiber in the airframe and Kevlar in certain other strategic places. After talking to builders who have tried it, it is not worth the trouble unless you want to increase the build/experiment/teardown/rebuild time expotentially. Kevlar and carbon fiber fabric doesn't want to lay down in epoxy, so vacuum bagging becomes a necessity. Mistakes become costly and time flies just as fast when rebuilding a boo - boo as it does doing it the recommended way. This brings me to the other point of this post. A wise man (with an English accent) once said (in so many words) "The perfect airplane being built sits in a hangar, while the other [imperfect] planes fly over it". (brackets mine) So basically, anything is possible, but as Dust put it so succinctly : New materials = re-engineering I will add: re-engineering = time lost not flying. So, do you want to build a perfect Cozy? (just in time to watch your grandchildren finish the sanding?)or do want to fly in one with minor mods? But, to each his own. It may be worth waiting for. It's good to visit a builder and talk to him (or her) about the time it took to build it according to plans and then about whether or not they would have spent the months or years making changes . From what I have seen and from the general knowledge base here and elsewhere, there is very little to be gained in making changes in the "plans build". Engines, retractable gear, constant speed props, heavy epoxy loading notwithstanding, even upper end speed can be limited by other factors (see post on Mach Stall). With all of the same type (Rutan designs and knock-offs) you dont see that many with exotic modifications flying about. Maybe there's a reason for that. Ok Jim, you can come out now..

I'm with you on the hanging receptacles. I use a 12 ga SO cord with a 4 gang box just about 6 inches over my head. I have worked in shops with table plug-ins and they work, but the cord is always getting in the way. With the SO cord and a kellums grip providing stress relief, I can bully the receptacle box around a bit. I also mounted 8 new flourescent fixtures spread out over the work area (I gots to see what Im a doin') the attic looks like a plate of romex spaghetti right now. I have done a lot of rebuilding work and lighting is extremely important...Im surprised is isn't addressed here more fully. After all, we may not be dealing with microns on the build, but splitting the line of a pencil mark is within .020" range and that needs to be illuminated. I have done body work on Corvettes in poorly lit garages and when it gets outside to wash or buff I have seen subtle waves and dips that poor lighting didn't show. I am getting older too (isn't everyone?) and my squint factor is increasing every year. One more question for Dust, couldn't you slot the table to allow access to the inside without compromising the structural integrity of the design? Ciau fer now......

Thanks again guys, I was thinking of putting the table on casters with leveling jacking screws on it. That way I can move it around and re - level it when convenient to do so. I already have 2 workbenches, but they are 10' together but they have a lab type surface that nothing sticks to and nothing can burn or dissolve (if it's dropped it cracks) I wanted to join them all together. This table will be around when I am flying to the Bahamas waving at John sitting in his hot - tub, so I want to build it right. It seems pretty stout by description. Nobody said anything about using screws so I guess it's OK to use the 3" coated decking screws. I might even bolt the legs on so I can take the whole thing over to a local shop and have them run a 6" wood-working fly cutter over it to make sure it's flat. Side point: I might be over in your neck of the woods next week John, I'll call first. - I finally got the shed built, junk transferred from the garage/studio into it. Now the beast is perched on saw-horses in the middle of everything on the ground floor instead of occupying the recording booth. So, 7 weeks, 10 yards of concrete, $770 worth of lumber and building materials, a little blood, sweat and tears (not the musical group) and Voila! A (personal hobby on hold) recording studio is now an aircraft manufacturing facility (too). I remember you told me to not let these things keep me from progressing for very long, so I didn't. Now it's getting more difficult to decide who to buy from and where to get it (MGS = hazardous material = more $$$ per gallon) I'll tell you more about it later, but February is CHAPTER 10 Month!! oooops midnight. Gotta go! Im turning into a pumpkin...

Thank You O great Dusty One. That is what I had in mind, I wasn't sure about some of the pine 1 X 10s at the local Home Repo Depot. But you took the guess work right out of it. What about the legs and the height? 4 X 4s or more 2 x 6s for legs? Toe nail them at the end or screw them on. What do you think about using decking screws for the table (I have an framing air nailer that shoots glued nails into anything, I have a air brad nailer too, but it doesn't go berserk like the framing nailer does and shoots 3 nails in the same hole) I feel safer using screws (So does my dog). Height is a big concern, because of the "bend over" back pain while working on bench projects. What's the major factor there? One more thing....... I read somewhere (and could probably quote it, but I won't) that someone made an 8ft table and a 4ft table and then put them together for the wings 'n longer stuff. Now, I am getting ready for the canard wing (Chapter 10) I may be beyond the little pieces, but just for the record, would the split table be a good idea or a waste of saw power... Thanks for the brain "pickings"! FYI: When I think of my time repairing dust collection systems and machines that are victims of poor dust collection (sometimes I have to wallow in MDF dust, I look like a turkey refugee from a "shake and bake" bag and itch in various places as the dust finds it's own escape route) I have to remind myself that when there's dust present, it's good to have adequate suction. So when something "sucks" it's not necessarily bad.... Need I say more.

Or should I say THE TABLE discussion... When looking at the "plans table" for building the wings, etc., it shows a picture of a table with MDF supported by 1 " X 10" on legs (not sure what size) and the width is 42" to 48" wide and 12' to 14' long. OK. What is the purpose of the 1X10's wouldn't a 2 x 6 do just as well? or is there a reason why the front is 10"? LEGS: At least 2 x 6 right? Or is this just a suggestion. I have read about others' tables. Some say 14' is a good length, some say they barely need 12'. Is 42" too wide? or do you need as much width as is practicable? To those almost done: If you could have made it different, how would you have done it? What would you have added? Too tall? Too short? Better materials? ugly? Inquiring minds want to know, and ironically, so does mine. After all, this thing is going to be around the length of the project. Dangling my toe in the pirahna tank.....

Wow! Am I relieved! I have always hated the "Mach Stall", lost the index finger on my left hand during the first one (picking my nose). You would have thought I would have learned my lesson, but during a trial run of my J3 Cub (modified) "Mach stall" claimed my left earlobe (ruined my soccer career), I should have never mounted that 450 BHP engine and modified the drag component of the wing! By now I could have learned my lesson, and I might have, but now I am building a Cozy with a 200 HP engine and I was worried that during re-entry I might miscalculate the angle and bounce off the stratosphere and into oblivion! Thanks! I feel better now.

Oh, I dunno. I never paid much attention to what the players were wearing. There are others close to the field of play that are more interesting to look at (what they're NOT wearing) if-you-know-what-I mean-and-I-think-you-do! It is kind of funny though, my wife is Cuban and her Father has been here for 40+ years. He is still glued to the TV watching "Futbol" and knows who is winning and losing etc. I don't know why it never caught on here, maybe it's the clothes! I hear the first rule is: If you can't kick the ball, kick a man! But what's that got to do with the forum? I sure wish I knew.

Us licensed pilots in the US of A have this little thing called FARs we have to contend with. FAR 91.211 (formerly 91.32) has set 12,500 ft msl for the maximum altitude a pilot may fly without Ox. This is one reg that applies to experimental AC as well. Personally, I always try to abide by the FARs (it's always saved my life) but I have never seen the FAA police plane pull anyone over at 12800 for not using Ox. As a matter of fact, Ive never seen an FAA police plane. If there was one, I don't think they would pull you over anyway. Most pilots that push the limit on Ox use (especially at night when eyesight is affected) usually turn themselves in - to dirt. The FAR isn't my idea or my opinion, but the rest is. Now...back to making airplane parts.. Kevin

So I guess it's come to this eh? A challenge? Well, I went to a fight one time and a Rugby game broke out.... I wish I could give MY real name, but I'm just a figment of John Slade's imagination come to life in one of his brighter programming days (you've seen the movie "Tron" haven't you? well....) now I show up every once in awhile at his hanger and watch him struggle with the iniquities of mechanical construction and as he bends metal objects using pure will power (and a pair of pliers). I personally would like to see the ability to bookmark certain posts to keep in the archive (you know, crumbs, Hansel and Gretel??), that way, we can decide to leave the posts that are truly informative, noteworthy or copy-able. The rest could stay until the newer ones bump them off.. But, that's just my opinion. What do I know? Lycra hot pants?

Ordinarily I would have put this under the last topic where Marbleturtle alluded to a Ducted Fan being used on a Cozy. I searched for the topic in the forum search tool and ended up with very little. So, has anyone (besides me) researched the PSRU-less alternative to a prop? From what the research says, it is pretty awesome up to about 160 mph where intrinsic design encumberances take over. So now at least we'll have a seperate thread for it anyway. Twin ducted fans? Hmmmm. One in front and one in back or nacelles on the wings? Makes for interesting pictures in one's mind. Did I mention they don't use PSRUs?

I guess I will have to trust the "powers that be" to do what is best for the Forum. I find it quite entertaining at times. Perhaps someone starting a thread in the coffee house (topic) could be moved eventually to the proper "bracket" for future search purposes. Some could easily make it to the trash can. Either way, I have an airplane to build and I won't be able to participate as often in these forums. So, do what you must, but don't take away my coffee (house)!! Oh, and one more thing: I use Netscape 7.1. IE 6.0 came with the new computer. It's like certain forms of birth control, I hate it, but I'll use it if I have to...... Keep up the good work! Kevin

When I read about rotary engine racers using ceramic coatings I had to do some research: It has it's good and bad points. Good: Different coatings do different things, reflect heat, absorb heat, conduct heat, reduce friction and so on. When pieces come off (see "Bad") it doesn't cause damage, or very little. Bad: MUST be properly applied to a properly prepared surface and "cooked" at the correct temp for the correct duration. Some shops will do the job cheap but not right. Sometimes, improperly applied ceramic will come off of the part. My understanding is that the coatings enhance or retard the temperature carrying properties of metal in an engine, depending on which type of coating was applied and where it was applied. Other coatings reduce bearing friction. The pieces are sandblasted and chemically treated to allow a good adhesion and then the coating is applied very carefully (like a good enamel paint job....no runs) and then it is heated to the proper temp (400 degrees f ..example) some coatings "break in" during exhaust temp "treatment" after initial heat treatment. One can order the coatings and do the treatment himself (or herself) as well, but an experienced tech can be of great help as there are numerous technigues involved in prep and application. There. Another general overview. Im going to do it for sure. Kevin

Or should I say, V speeds - what? a crock? Before I start writing this stuff down in my Owner's Manual and order my custom airspeed indicator face, I was wondering, where does the data come from that you base your mathematical computations about Vne Va etc. Especially + and - G's. If it is from Nat's specs, are those based on tested flying product or extrapolation derived from other known values of similar craft. The reason I say this is because not all planes are built the same. (I think you all know where I am going with this) I am not one for pushing the envelope of design specs in practice, but atmospheric conditions and the ooops factor which tightens the sphincter factor has been known to cause good pilots to push an airframe to it's "known" limits and beyond. Icing and overloading don't hold a candle to a bellyflop landing when it comes to strain. So has this data been tested? Is it based on spam can engineering? Curious minds want to know.. and, strangely enough, I do too.

I looked for a good deal on a high compression 13B and I found one for 200 bucks. I saw what I wanted and went after it. Now I can afford some goodies and ceramic coatings and stuff to make it as good as the renesis. I'll have more in it than what the guy is asking for the Renesis by the time I install it. Hmmmmm.

Sorry I couldn't get back to you LargePrime, I had to drive 600 miles. Quote:"I know of no EFI systems that use the crank sensor as an input to the flow Pulse width Modulation. Could you point to any referance that says that the Fuel injector PWM function concerns itself with the port opening event." I suppose you were referring to a stand-alone system? The one reference I can give that offers an answer is the Haynes manual for 86-91 Mazda RX-7 page 114 I can't reprint it legally, but the part that I was talking about is the first sentence that says that the ECU alters the the injector opening duration among other things using various sensor inputs etc etc. A throttle body injector is a whole different story, but I thought we were helping the gentlemen understand the basics of "general" theory of the benefits of a stratified charge. PWM is a side issue of the timing I was talking about. It's more important for attaining peak power/economy than for pure function. A carb will work on a EFI engine if you mount it in front of the intake where it used to go....... So the ECU takes the data and compares it with MAF, TPS, CPS Camshaft PS (Ford) and other sensors and then times the opening and duration of each single injector in a multiport injection system. It has to be coordinated with the ignition timing to work. As far as a "port opening event": Camshaft position sensors provide that information to the ECU on some typical piston engines. The Rotary doesn't have valves so the rotor acts as a valve when it turns and allows opening to the combustion chamber. The CPS is the only practical way to get this info to the ECU for injector opening and endurance and ironically, it's what MAzda used in many of their RXs. To change "valve timing" in a rotary, you have to physically change the port opening. In the early days of EFI Volkswagen had a system that didn't rely on pure electronics (I had a Scirocco with a little EFI engine that ran like the dickens.......whatever that is) It used a seperate injector in the throttle body for cold starting. Now, the ECU can control the duration of newer systems and they just make the duration longer. Does that answer your question?