Kent Ashton

This B-stormers project in Pennsylvania. I think I paid $2K for a tub with no nose, a cracked canopy, and some foam years ago so it sounds like a good deal to me. A Cozygirrls Long-ez engine mount is going for $1050, let that sink in. Brakes, gear hoop, canopy, cowls, preformed strakes. Those are all nearly $1K items. Imagine! A Long-ez quickbuild kit for $3K or so. What a deal! GU canard. Bonus: LORAN antennas! LONG EZ • $3,500 • PROJECT FOR SALE • Long ez for sale. Have to many projects and someone should really fly this one. What you see plus a few boxes of misc parts. Excellent build quality. Call or text for more details. • Contact Willie Hege, Owner - located Shippensburg, PA USA • Telephone: 7179777436 • Posted May 16, 2019

Might I suggest that you pick up that give-away Cozy IV project in Waller, Texas for $1500. See my "Sales I've seen" thread.

Sorry, I did not mean to say "conventional" gear (what an outdated name for a taildragger!). I meant to mount the main wheels nearer the centerline. 🙂 I see that the Washington estate-sale EZ sold. This one: https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/?do=findComment&comment=63091 Man, the Facebookers were swarming around that airplane like bees. No idea what it went for. The $1500 Cozy-Texas-Ebay sale got no bids and it was a NO RESERVE auction! https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/?do=findComment&comment=63456

This Quickie with an interesting story. A 570 lb load does not seem that extreme but with the sun beating down . . .. I mean, who's going to load three 190 lb persons in that cockpit for 8 hours in the summer heat. He was asking for it, I'd say. Oh well, I imagine it can be rebuilt pretty easily. Cut out the canard, build new. I understand they behave better on more conventional landing gear. Perhaps it is a blessing. 🙂 Q1 QUICKIE W/RT CANARD FAIL • $2,100 • FOR SALE AS IS • Q1 Quickie broken right front canard. Canard broke while test loading aircraft with 70lbs engine and 500 lbs load ON THE GROUND. Had emergency, left 8 hours fully loaded 100 degree heat/sun. Came back, Right Canard had failed. Diid not build the aircraft.Aiircraft flew years before with an Onan. Metal parts restored. New canopy included (paid $600) No engine, instruments/radios. Do not enter a deal unless you intend to complete it. Aircraft based Fallbrook, CA. Buyer pays shipping. Carbon fiber spar retrofit available Quickheads site, (NI) Questions (760) 419-1301 • Contact George H. Dawe, Owner - located Fallbrook, CA USA • Telephone: 760.419.1301 . 760 419-1301 • Posted May 15, 2019

No intent to knock your airplane, Joe--it looks pretty nice. It just gives me a chuckle when folks advertise in MPH. Got any late-model Camrys on your lot? 🙂

I suspect it is the Lawrenceville, GA chapter. The OP lives NE a few miles. http://joomla.eaa690.net/index.php An older EZ by the look of the [low] performance rudder mod but it ought to be worth $15K. Certainly $10K. The discussion at PilotsOfAmerica says they just want to get rid of it--too many projects. https://www.pilotsofamerica.com/community/threads/suggestions-please.118660/

I see that you have a Long-ez. I measured the cups on a standard Dynafocal Type 1 ring and they are 2.75" ID. Does your "2.25" refer to the cup-size or the donut diameter? In the picture below, the gent is showing a Lord J-7402-24 donut in an O-360 mount. http://www.supercub.org/forum/showthread.php?46285-NEED-INFO-on-engine-mounts The donut appears to be about 2.25" wide. The engineering sketch below shows them to be about 2" wide. Maybe this is what you are seeing and what you want (or the -16). The Cozygirrls recommend the Lord J-7402-24 for their Long-ez mounts. http://www.cozygirrrl.com/aircraftparts.htm Here is a conversation about donuts from the Cozybuilders group: The VIP donuts are cheaper. https://vipmounts.com/aircrafts-mounts/ See bottom of the page for Lord/Barry equivalents. I have read of an alarmed owner who saw the interior rubber piece around the space on the -24 donuts deteriorating and "leaking" out of the donut. So since the -24 extra rubber feature is unnecessary and the -16 is the same in flight, I would guess the -16 version or VIP equivalent would do. There is an older Lord product guide here which has more info and drawings. http://www.n2999c.com/N2999C-info/aircraft/Skyranch_Information/enginemount_lord.pdf That empties my clue bag. 🙂 Lord mount S-4258.pdf

Dang! Correcting the picture I posted above .

More bad ideas from the world of FB: This chap (pic 1) is planning to put these intake holes in his NACA inlet. The NACA flow, which is already swirling at the sides due to the design of the scoop, and turbulent, will flow toward that 3-hole arrangement. He is expecting to get, say, 24 sq inches of airflow into three holes of about 9.5 sq inches total. As a result, most of it will spill-over out of the NACA and create turbulence outside and behind the NACA. That spilled air, slowing down as it encounters the 3-hole air-dam and then having to accelerate back to freestream velocity outside the fuselage, uses energy to slow it down and energy to speed it up again. That's drag. In addition, the molecules, which have momentum (air is heavy!) are going to impact the flat surfaces surrounding the intake holes and cause a backpressure to incoming flow which will increase the spill-out tendency. Then as the molecules bounce off the flat surfaces and try to enter those small holes, they will tumble (arrows added). They will not enter his holes in an orderly non-turbulent stream, therefore, fewer of those little buggers will crowd through the holes as they bump and jostle each other. The effect will be to reduce his 9.5 sq inches to maybe 5-7 sq inches. In addition, the choke-like design of his holes is attempting to accelerate air through the holes. That will also cause backpressure and spillout. And normally you would want to decelerate air entering a plenum to raise its pressure. On my Long-EZ project, I had downdraft cooling so I used a smaller-size NACA on the bottom for carb and oil cooler air using two large square holes (pic 2). These holes turned out to be larger than needed. I closed them down with some aluminum as a test (pic 3) and eventually raised the floor of the NACA (i.e., made the NACA shallower) to make the holes smaller. For this fellow, I imagine intake holes like pic 4 would work much better.

I saw this pic (#1) on a FB page and edited it below. It is an old one from newsletters and the arrangement doesn't work but it got several "likes". There is a fair amount of bad info on FB. The attach point for the master cylinder must be lower on the pedal to achieve sufficient leverage. Matco says the leverage must be at least 2.5:1. This pic caused me some grief in the past. Pic 2 shows a laydown pedal arrangement that works pretty well but it could use a little more leverage.

Generally, Lord J7402-24 is recommended for the Cozy. That's what the Cozygirrls show. If you look at the Lord manual you will see -24 and -16 listed for Pipers PA-28s between 150 and 180 hp so I don't think it matters much which one I think there is subtile differences in the rubber composition. Doubt you could tell in use. https://www.lord.com/china/sites/china/files/PB6304_MountsGeneralAviation.pdf

Lest you think that a hanging prop balancer is some sort of imaginary device conceived by an addled brain, I offer exhibit 1 https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/section/news/propeller-balancing-bushing-kit/ Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha

No Reserve! This Texas Cozy project on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Cozy-Mark-IV-Aircraft-Project/202673159561? Here is his website http://www.ez.org/pages/mattstecher/index.html It looks very nice. The only thing I would question are his fuselage antennae which are oriented for 3/9 o'clock. He probably has $4-$5K in materials, not to mention 300-400 hrs labor. The Lightspeed Plasma III mentioned above did not meet the reserve. High bid $1075. Ebay is good for a quick sale but I think you do better having a little patience on Barnstormers.

Saw this accident writeup recently: 300 hour pilot, non-IFR, night IMC, wife + two kids. http://www.kathrynsreport.com/2019/05/cirrus-sr22-owned-by-linds-plumbing-and.html No need to say how dumb this was however, the question that interests me is whether the pilot was trying to fly through a gap in the weather he saw on Nexrad, but due to Nexrad broadcast delay--which can be 8-10 minutes, he ended up flying into the green blob that moved north into his flight path? There is no way to know but that has caused crashes before. In another crash recently, a chap flew into a line of thunderstorms moving in his direction that he thought he was avoiding on Nexrad. It is often some small deficit of knowledge or the unwillingness to take decisive action that kills a pilot. Maybe this pilot did not know about Nexrad delay. Even so, had this fellow acknowledged the danger of his situation, climbed straight ahead to a safe sector altitude and relied on the autopilot, his family would likely be alive today. It should have been an easy decision, actually. It's a big sky. All he had to do was to not hit the ground. He lacked a little voice to say, "This has gone far enough. Admit you're screwed. Climb. Use your autopilot", yet he mucked around with it too long for what? Pride? Panic? Fear of not staying VFR? Information overload? Or perhaps, with all the mucking about, he finally met the old killer, vertigo. It is hard to develop that judgement with only 150 hrs PIC. No one goes out thinking "I'm going to be stupid today." We fly ourselves into precarious situations step-by-step. Often each step seems reasonable until collectively, they are not.

Maple. I started from a desired pitch at the 75% station and a blade length. I will make a writeup on the process soon.

Yeah, me too. I read that a lot of prop builders will slightly rework a prop (repitch it) for a customer but I committed to glassing both sides out of fear it might come apart so I am pretty much committed to the pitch and twist I used. In the Dynavibe check, I got static of about 2300 rpm which might work for a spare prop if I can fix the balance. It may have too much pitch but you can only really tell that by flying it. Next time I would try to precut the layers (pic 1) so there is less carving and wood-removal required. You could build them pretty fast that way. It is easy to cut into the blade profile while bandsawing-off the excess wood so one tends to leave too much wood to be removed by hand. CNC? What's that? 🙂

Here's a tip worth repeating: You can google-search a particular website by using the syntax "site:craigslist.org long-ez" (leave off the quotes). I saw this California EZ project today with that. The workmanship looks very good. Don't let the dark-colored epoxy bother you; Ez-Poxy does that after a while. The centerspar was placed in the wrong orientation for the pic. Comes with lots of do-dads; the price is reasonable, I think. Left hand stick? It can moved. https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/avo/d/corona-rutan-long-ez-80-built-plans/6874274828.html

Prop woes: Here's where a bit of poor craftmanship leads to a world of woe but it has been very interesting puzzling this out. My first run of the new prop showed a bad vibration. Checking the tracking I found I had a 1/4" to 5/16" tracking error at the blade tips (see diagram #1 in the first pic). This was just careless building--not checking it while building. So I had the bright idea to shave a bit off the hub to bring the tips into the plane of rotation (pic 2, halfway thru the process) (also see diagram #2 in the first pic). I only shaved off a tiny bit to move each blade 1/8" to 5/32" toward the plane of rotation. I rebalanced the prop through the center hole using both a static balancer and hanging balancer and ran it again using a Dynavibe prop balancer. Still had a strong vibration. The Dynavibe showed over 1.5O IPS which is off the chart. A good prop will be .07 or less. We added some weight to the heavy side but it was still very unbalanced. Tracking was within 1/16". After a bit of head-scratching I surmised that while my hub-shave moved the tips into the plane of rotation, it also moved the center of mass of each blade OUT of the plane of rotation which was, I suppose, was causing a coupling imbalance (see diagram #3 in the first pic). I figured I could compensate for that by rebalancing the prop in relation to the shaved side of the hub, i.e., the side against the flywheel, using a hanging balance and a bubble-level on the hub. The bubble-level is tricky to use and probably not as precise. The .4 oz weight of the bubble-level has to countered with washers. (pic 3) BTW, The height of the ferule determines the sensitivity of the balance. If the top of the ferule is below the hub CG, it will never balance--just flops from side to side. As you move the ferule up, it becomes less sensitive. When almost level, notice that the line no longer passes through the centerline of the center hole but the shaved face of the hub is a right-angle to the hanging wire. OK, feeling pretty happy of myself at this point, then I realize that the prop bolts and the crushplate will be off center about the amount that the hang-wire is off center in the centerhole (see the diagram in pic 3). It's not much but they are heavy and are likely making a big difference in balance. So in the next few days I will put the crushplate and prop bolts on the hub and try rebalancing again. What I would expect to see the prop tip-over in the direction of the bolt offset. Stay tuned to see if this prop can be fixed.

Saw this "Open eze" on a FB page. N871CG Said to be for sale at $35K with overhauled O-290 (50 hrs) and about 150 hrs airframe. You will have to call the owner for more details. Wow, Jon, someone is actually building from the Open-EZ plans, huh? https://registry.faa.gov/AircraftInquiry/NNum_Results.aspx?NNumbertxt=871CG added: I see a Clyde Lee Baker age 71 at that address. Still has a medical but he might be aging out. https://amsrvs.registry.faa.gov/airmeninquiry/Main.aspx Just call me "Super Sleuth". 🙂

Oh, NOW you are interested in the canards after you had probably the world's most experienced builder/pilot living next door. 🙂 I will PM you, pal. Get in touch. In the mean time check my thread: https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/page/16/#comments

This Lightspeed ignition today on Ebay. I really like mine. The bids did not meet his reserve the first time so I imagine he has lowered his reserve to the $2K to $2.5K range. A pretty good buy if it goes for that. Item # 123752945416 if you are interested.

I see that the "Bally Bomber" is for sale on B-stormers at $225,000. What a work of art! You would empty the FBO wherever you land. https://www.facebook.com/BallyBomber/?ref=page_internal

I just installed some pedal extensions. My pedals were a bit close--and made me pull my legs back a little when getting ready to land. I made the extensions so they could be extended about 1, 2 and 3" forward or aft but the 3" is probably not usable and the 2" seems like a lot, too. Real useful if you have one leg 3-4 inches shorter than the other. 🙂 The bolts are secured with safety-wire. Seen the same on the hanging pedals, too.

3 today. This one relisted at the same price. First seen March 14. Might be N40LC, the only Varieze I see in Crete (Will County), IL. The registration does not come up. FAA says it has a problem. SUPER NICE VARIEZE • $25,000 • AVAILABLE FOR SALE OR TRADE • Like new condition, new paint, new interior cont 0-200 752 SMOH TT, airplane 569hrs tt Call or text • Contact Felipe Gonzalez, Owner - located Crete, IL USA • Telephone: 7735718138 • Posted April 30, 2019 ---------------- A Long-ez N795BT first seen here https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/?do=findComment&comment=63331 relisted on Fort Wayne, IN Craiglist. Same price. I am seeing a fair number of airplanes on Craiglist these days. (White, 3rd pic) ------------- One of David Hanson's refurbished airplanes. (pics) N440EZ https://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/NNum_Results.aspx?NNumbertxt=440EZ RUTAN VARIEZE • $29,000 • FOR SALE • 2003 Varieze for sale. Too busy to fly it and so the wife says I need to sell it. 330 TTAF and SMOH. Continental O-200 with high compression pistons. Gary Hertzler Silver Bullet (20 SNEW). Electric Speedbrake, Elevator Trim, and Nose Gear, and Starter Lightspeed Dual Electronic Ignition. LED Nav and Strobe Lights. Canopy Cover included in sale. iFly 740b. Trio EZ Pilot Autopilot. Electronics International Digital Engine Instruments. Microair 760 Transceiver. Microair T2000SFL Transponder. PS Engineering Intercom • Contact Jake Patrick - HOOK DOWN AVIATION, Owner - located Chesapeake, VA USA • Telephone: 3522144680 • Posted April 30, 2019

Just reading this Mk IV crash report from 2017 http://www.kathrynsreport.com/2019/04/cozy-mark-iv-registered-to-and-operated.html It is rather inconclusive as to why the engine quit but sanding dust was found in the filter and flow-divider (fuel injected engine). I am not sure why a 27,000 hour pilot needed a second pilot for Phase I. They did not have the boost pump on when the engine quit so the co-pilot was not much help there. I think a second pilot is just a distraction: he is talking to the pilot, the pilot is talking to him. The engine quit at 400 feet. That's on the ragged edge of a return-to-the-field-altitude. Given the confusion and lack of experience in the aircraft, it's not surprising they didn't try a turn back, but at 500' AGL it is pretty doable with one pilot. The accident with pics was discussed here https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/cozy_builders/robinson$20cozy/cozy_builders/qEY53lRORCc/P0b05eIsCwAJ My guess is that it was ultimately due to fuel starvation of some type. I turn my Facet pump on for all takeoffs and pattern work and I am careful to examine the gascolator screen and Earl's filter element every year. One time I used too much Fuel Lube on the fuel valve and found gobs of it on the gascolator screen. It was not enough to clog the screen but fuel does not dissolve that stuff! Other than that, I have never seen more than a spec or two of anything on the screen. Fingers-crossed. 🙂