Kent Ashton

I don't like to put too many non-canard airplanes here but this a great buy on a Mustang II project. For $7,500 you get a kit comparable to a $36K Vans quickbuild RV-7. The Mustang is a good design. I have a book "Speed with Economy" that goes through how to make them faster and they are pretty fast already. It also looks like some fine workmanship. BUSHBY MUSTANG II PROJECT • $7,500 • FOR SALE BY OWNER • Wings, cockpit & most controls complete, seats installed, all (zinc chromated) aluminum needed to finish is included, tail open for inspection-ready to close, gear legs on, complete AI builder logs/photos, includes plans, manuals, new set of full-size drawings, meticulous craftsmanship, 215 kts cruise with 180hp, "unmatched in speed for the dollar and ease of construction", horizontal stab/rudder need assy (material incld), more photos available, aircraft specs available (click the "Display Specs Page" link). • Contact Mike Wiechmann, Owner - located Friendswood, TX USA • Telephone: 7139227772 . 2819969596 • Posted June 17, 2019

It is a pretty thin market for those, I think. You might check here http://www.quickheads.com/index.php?option=com_adsmanager&view=list&catid=2&Itemid=352 and look through the asking prices in this thread. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/ Offhand I would say you'd be lucky to get 1/3rd to 1/2 of what your Dad paid for the materials but that's just a non-informed guess.

No, you shouldn’t need a repairman’s certificate. Your A&P will be enough to sign off the condition inspection.

Mi I think you can select edit at the bottom of your post and then delete the photos. Edit only works for a limited time.

Did you see Jon's discussion of the template scale error here? https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/20540-important-update-regarding-open-ez-rev-5-templates/ I see that Antonio took the PDF files to a printer and they printed out to the exact scale so maybe the scale noted in the corner is just a check and unnecessary. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/20331-openez-templates/?do=findComment&comment=46736 To compare printed size to actual, check for 11.5" from the C/L mark in the drawing to the added 23" dimension cross on the lower left corner. The bottom of the IP bulkhead is very close to W.L 2.5 (see 23"-20.5" = 2.5", plans p. 5-1). "W.L. 10" is marked in the leg hole. In the A3 sheet, the top of the longeron shown in the upper left corner is at W.L 23 as shown in the plans at p. 5.1 Also see "WL 3.2 marked at the bottom of the bulkhead in A3 and "18.9" marked on the centerline. That should give you assurance that the printouts are accurate. I do not have the actual drawings any longer but I do have airfoil templates made from the actual drawings and will be glad to give you some dimension off them. It is an Eppler airfoil. Can't recall the number but I might be able to be print it from the ordinates.

More on the ADSB install: I showed my install here https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ez-project/?do=findComment&comment=63063 That seems to work well but you would not believe how many flights I have made piddling around with this thing and I still have one more test but I think I figured it out. Below is my checklist and some gotchas. Glitch #1 is changing the EchoUAT configuration in the App but forgetting to hit "UPDATE" at the bottom. I probably did that on several flights. I hard-wired the Garmin 327 output to the EchoUAT thinking that would be more reliable than the Transponder Monitor (sniffer) mode. However--glitch #2--the Garmin needed a $180 software update to output the data. Even then, it didn't work. That's when I determined Glitch #3: You can go into the Garmin configuration page and changed the RS232 to "REMOTE" [output] but if you fail to move the CRSR to a new position, the Garmin does not accept the change. This is likely why I had an FAA performance report showing no BARO data transmitted by the Echo. Will try one more time. The setup file is at the bottom if you want to download it. Only valid for this combo of Uavionix and Garmin. BTW I just saw a Jeopardy that said the word "glitch" was invented by John Glenn. ADSB SET-UP for Uavionix EchoUAT, SkyFYX-EXT and hard-wired Garmin GTX-327 [filename: ADSB Setup] 1.Connect to Wifi, see “Ping-XXX” 2. Launch Uavionix App 3. Configure as follows Control UAT TX Enabled ICAO # [your # from the FAA registry] C/S [your N-number] Flight Pln ------- CSID Enabled Anon.Mode Disabled Emit.Cat Light Plane VFR Code 1200 ADSB In Cap Both 1090/978 Mhz Vse 30 (or 0 for testing) A/C Len <15 A/C Wide <23 GPS AntOff 0 GPS AntOff 0 SetupSource App (wi-fi-stored) Cntrl Source EFIS/PANEL (com1) or Transponder Monitor GPS Source Ext GPS (Com2) TrafUplink --------- Com1 rate 9600 Com1 data 81N Com1 Phy RS232 Com1 Prot. GTX Com2 rate 115200 Com2 Input NMEA -->DON'T FORGET TO HIT “UPDATE” Confirm settings in MONITOR EchoUAT Led indications - Solid Red = fault - Flash Red = transmit - Solid Grn = powered - Flash Grn = received GARMIN 327 Setup: [update software to V 2.12] (RS232 OUTPUT must be set to “REMOTE”) w/ unit off, press FUNC + ON to access Configuration page. page thru with FUNC or STOP/START use CRSR to select field use 0-9 to change data [but not needed] use 8 or 9 key to change field move CRSR to accept data ADSBSetup

I see that the ex-military EZ project above is marked down to $9.5 Still way overpriced. Compare what you can get below in the $10K range. This Cozy III today. I used to own one. It's a nice airplane for light-weight people; Nat and Shirley Puffer were little folks. It can be flown with a lot of weight in the front seat but it's slower to rotate and I was always concerned about landing speed during an off-airport landing. Sort of like flying an EZ (it has the same wings) with two people in the front cockpit. It could probably be flying in a year, if you got to work. The III would make a good "Limo-EZ" with the pilot in a spacious cockpit up front beside the snack bar and magazine rack and the pax dozing in a roomy back seat. "Pass me another diet cola, dear." :-) COZY III PROJECT • $10,500 • PROJECT FOR SALE • Cozy airframe complete on the gear. Wings/ailerons, Canard/elevators, winglets built. Rudder pedals and brake cylinders installed. Cleveland wheels and brakes. Control systems installed. Forward tilting canopy installed. Dynafocal Mount installed. Selling a friends project that passed away a couple of years ago. • Contact Donald D. Berlin, Owner - located Tucson, AZ USA • Telephone: 520-904-9979 • Posted June 15, 2019

Ah yes, that was a very sweet deal https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/?do=findComment&comment=63509 It is usually not a problem to get a repairman's certificate on an unfinished project but take lots of pics and keep a log of your work. It also helps to have bills-of-sale/pics/receipts and or builder's logs from the previous builders if a squirrely inspector wants you to prove it was built by "amateurs". How experienced are you as a builder? Know about Aeroelectric Connection? http://www.aeroelectric.com That Bob Nuckolls is a big help for us all. Good building!

Which sheets and what format (.tif or .pdf)? I looked as a few of the PDF drawings and they have the dimensions shown in the bottom corner. There has been discussion about how to print them out to correct scale but I've never had to do that--had some original plans. As I recall, the TERF CD is copyrighted and should not be copied from. So are the EZ plans but Rutan has informally waived copyright.

FYI, this site has the "Open-EZ" plans. Rutan has said he has no objection to building from copied plans. Just don't call it a Long-EZ. He does not want the liability.

On the Seattle Craigslist N988AB https://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/NNum_Results.aspx?NNumbertxt=988AB

One more thought: OK so you don't own a fancy-dancy prop carving machine. Maybe this will work as well. The problem is how to rough-out a prop blank on a bandsaw without cutting into the as-yet-to-be-determined station profiles or leaving too much wood to be removed. Try this: Make extra templates that will act as drill guides, showing you how much to drill down into the laminated prop blank to approximate the profile depth. The templates can still be Formica or plywood; they just need to sit vertically on the blank. Mark the templates with vertical lines. Secure them on the blank at each station and drill down into the blank to match the depth shown on the drill jig. I expect it would best be done on a drill press but could be done by hand. It's not necessary to drill absolutely to the correct depth. Perhaps you drill 1/8" less. Now as you bandsaw the wood off the blank, the holes will show how close you're getting to the blade profile. Let me know how that works. :-)

BALANCING THE PROP: OK, coming to the end here. I want to summarize the balance process here in order to finish up this thread. I previously talked about problems with this prop here https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ez-project/page/15/#comments but the bottom line is that because I built in a tip tracking error, I had to shave the mounting face of the hub slightly to correct the tracking. As a result, I could not balance this prop through the centerhole any longer, either on the usual static balancer or with the hanging balancer (although I did try various bits of lead in the hub). The first time I ran it, the vibration was so bad I was afraid to fly it. A check with a Dynavibe showed about 1.96 IPS (inches per second) which was terrible. After a lot of trial and error with the Dynavibe, I got the balance to the Dynavibe "Fair" range with various bolts and washers (pic 1) I wanted to resolve these various bolts and washers to one weight in the hub. This is to keep the balance-weight close to the plane of imbalance (the prop!) and presumably this would also minimize coupling imbalance. So I drew an initial CAD drawing which used the weight, radius and azimuth of each weight to convert them to vectors. (pic 2) A vector is just the ounces of weight X the radius (i.e. ounce-inches), at a particular azimuth. Connecting all the vectors showed the azimuth and ounce-inches of one vector that would be equivalent to the separate weights. Here, 13.01 oz-in. at azimuth 207.71 degrees. Consequently, I drilled the hub for a 3 oz. bolt on a 3" radius at 208° (9 oz-in) that went most of the way through the hub and made a few more Dynavibe runs. It only took two additional washers under the prop bolts get a .04 ips reading at max static RPM of 2228. Pic 4 shows the final vector drawing. You will notice that the final vector was 11.29 oz-in at 209.37° which does not match the 13.01 oz-in at 207.71° in the first drawing but perhaps moving the weight closer to the plane of the hub meant that less weight was needed. Azimuth agrees pretty well. In theory, a 3.76 oz weight at 3" should be the perfect balance weight but I will probably live with the extra washers and see how it goes. I flew this prop and it felt good. I could get 2750 RPM at 8000 feet at peak power--an overspeed condition. However at the lean setting I usually use, it ran about 2650 rpm and did not throw a blade so it looks like it will be a good prop and I am calling this experiment a success. 🙂

I believe I have seen Cozys being shipped in a High-Cube shipping container. The centerspar is 11.41' wide and the strakes might add a few inches, they pack them on a diagonal with the nose down. You might need to remove the main gear hoop--pretty easy to do. I presume you will operate on nice paved runways, otherwise another type of aircraft might do better.

I haven’t seen any plans pop up lately. Your best bet might be to meet a Vari owner and make a copy. Rutan has said he doesn’t object. Here’s how to find other canard owners https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/33309-varieze-builderpilot-wanted/?do=findComment&comment=63092

Hi. What project did you buy?

26. PRIMER - Here she is in epoxy primer (pic 1) however, I always suggest spraying a guidecoat of thin, sandable, black, cheap, rattle-can primer and sanding it off to see imperfections (pic 2) . Pic 3 shows the kind of imperfections (scratches) the guidecoat will reveal. And finally, with some polyurethane (pic 4). If the balance is close, an extra coat or two will correct an imbalance but beware doing it outdoors in any sort of breeze, which will turn a prop on a static balancer. Story: One time I painted a prop outside on the static balancer and walked away to let it dry. A bit later I heard it clatter on the driveway. The wind had rotated it all the way off the balancer. :-(

24. MICRO AND LEADING EDGE WORK - Sand the glass lightly, tape off the hub face. Mix the micro firmly enough that it does not sag too much as you turn the prop over. Recently, I read the idea of stretching thick fishing line over an airfoil, applying micro over the fishing line to get a consistent thickness. Try it and let me know how it works. :-) I just use old credit and AARP cards to apply the micro. Sand the cured micro starting with 36 grit working down to about 320 grit. Prep is always my weak area. I will prime and see scratches I should have removed. It doubles the work to get a good finish. Don't be me. 25. JBWeld LEADING EDGE - Again, a balance check would be prudent here. Where you relieved the leading edge, tape off the flat and cambered sides to keep the JBWeld confined to the L.E. Mix up some JBWeld and apply a generous bead to the L.E. Smooth it a bit (JBWeld sets up pretty fast) and apply a very thin Saran wrap about 2" wide. Tape the Saran on each side and work any pits and bumps out of the JBWeld. Don't fret if it gets over your tape. After it hardens, remove the Saran and work the JBWeld to the correct profile with files. I have never had any JBWeld fly off my three props, but I would try to keep the buildup rather thin. Yeah, I guess I should have said that before you relieved the leading edge. :-(

23. GLASSING THE FLAT SIDE- Cut dry glass with a pattern and mark it up for reference. Remember that it will overlap onto the cambered side. BTW, when you are going to cut pieces of glass out of a roll, it is helpful to put a strip of narrow masking tape along the cut line and the cut along the center of the tape. The tape will keep the edge of the glass in shape and keep it from unraveling. After the glass is wet-out, cut off the tape and straighten the glass. Fill the T.E. with wet flox and glass the flat side with one UNI and one BID (BID on a 45) both wrapping onto the cambered side. Between the two layers, add any pieces of cloth you need for balance. Keep in mind that the extra glass will need extra epoxy. I don't know a good way to estimate how much extra. Alternate glassing the blades and overlap on the hub. Where the UNI+BID overlap on the cambered side, evenly trim them to get a 7/8” to 1” overlap. Peel ply the entire prop with 4” to 5”-wide strips of peel ply After cure, remove peel ply, trim, sand, and check static balance. If needed, add some glass on the flat side to achieve static balance. Try wetting out some glass and with the Saran still on it, tape it in place and trim to achieve balance, mark the position, remove the Saran and glass in place, peel ply. The pic below shows the camberered side with the overlap done. This prop is glassed!

22. GLASSING THE PROP- CAMBERED SIDE: I used, one BID, one UNI, and one BID on the cambered side. BID on the 45 angle. I made a paper pattern long enough to insure overlap on the outside of the hub between the blades and used the pattern to precut the glass and mark a couple of stations to locate it on the prop. The arrows and "C" indicates the forward postion of the glass on the Cambered side. Paint epoxy on the prop. Position the layers and wet them out one by one. As I recall, I alternated blades in order to get alternating overlaps at the hub. Try to trim them for an even overlap centered on the center of the hub. The cambered-side glass does not wrap the L.E. Carefully trim the glass along the LE and trim the T.E. for a small (1/4" to 3/8)" overhang. Cut strips of peel ply 4-6" wide and peel-ply around the L.E, the blades and the overlap area on the outside of the prop hub. Do both blades (cambered side only). After cure remove the peel ply. Trim the T.E. and llightly sand the edge to the final curvature. Remove the wood at the T.E. (pic 2). Sand the L.E. glass smooth edge smooth and sand the cambered side where you relieved for the flat-side glass overlap. At this point it is probably good to to a static balance again. You might use the 00 lead shot. Another idea: BID weighs about .114 oz/sq. inch. You might cut a piece of dry glass and tape it to the prop tip to correct the imbalance. Later glass it in between the layers. It is important to keep correcting the imbalance as you build. In pic 4 I used about this much extra glass on one blade to bring the prop into balance, in lieu of the lead puck.

21. PREP CAMBERED L.E. FOR GLASS OVERLAP - See pics above. Draw an line down the cambered side about 1" back from the L.E. and shave the wood down so the glass overlap does not creat a bump. The flat-side glass will be two layers wrapping over onto the cambered side. BID + UNI are ..013 + .009 thick so in theory you need to remove .022" of wood but taking that little off a curved surface is tricky so if you remove a little more wood, it won't matter. I used a hacksaw blade to make shallow cut in the cambered wood to show depth and shaved down to the hacksaw cuts with a hand plane. With all this stuff, the more evenly you can do it on both blades, the less it will disturb your balance. At one point, I contemplated correcting balance with a lead puck (pic 1)--a lead bullet hammered flat--but I began to think of the centrifugal force that the lead puck would exert on the wood of the prop at 2700 RPM and decided against it. I dug it out and filled the hole with micro. I decided to try to correct the imbalance later with glass. However, I have fixed imbalances before on a prop I was going to glass by drilling small shallow holes in the wood and pressing in double-ought buckshot. Tape-off the hub (pic 2). The hub at the crushplate and forward face need to be bare wood. Glass-epoxy under the crushplate/flange can soften and compress and the prop bolts will lose tension. As you know, studies have shown it is the friction between the crushplate, wood, and prop flange that keep the prop from moving on the prop flange. Lose the friction and the prop will be destroyed. Mark the outside of the hub for a glass overlap between the blades. About 1" of overlap is enough, centered on the hub. I suppose you could relieve a small area to prevent a bump. Now you're about ready for glass.

18. PREP THE OUTBOARD LEADING EDGE FOR JBWELD - I use JBWeld over the glass to protect the leading edge from erosion. It is easy to apply and file to shape and holds up well. There are more plastic-like materials but I have not used them. The JBWeld only needs to be on the outboard 8-10" of the blade, IMO. I measured that length and removed about 1/8" of the bare wood at the outboard leading edge leaving it flat. (pic 3, but hard to see). After glassing the prop, I build up the flat L.E. with JBWeld and file to shape. It might be useful to use more or less JBWeld to fix a balance problem but I don't know how the weight of JBWeld compares to wood. 19. FILL IMPERFECTIONS - I used micro (pic 1, 2) 20. PREP T.E. FOR A FLOX CORNER (pic 3) - Use the blade profiles to check that the T.E. is where you want it. Then draw a cut-line along the T.E. about 5/16"-3/8" forward. Mark the cut-line for gaps where the wood wil remain attached for glassing. Drill 5/32" holes beside the gaps. I ground-down a thin saber-saw blade and, starting at the drilled holes, cut along the line leaving the gaps attached. Before glassing, apply some contact cement to the T.E. and a strip of peel-ply (pic 4)

17. FINISH CARVING - The hub can be shaped by eye with the flap-wheel disc on the grinder which removes wood very fast, then smoothed with rasps, body-file and sandpaper. If you did not use a hub template as mentioned above, you might want to shape one side and make some templates from the shaped side to do the other side. At this point my blades looked very thin--maybe (gulp) TOO thin but I think they will be fine. It was very rewarding to see that swoopy-twist emerge from the wood. At this point (pic 1), the blades are almost done. I marked a high place in the root that needed some more work with the flap-wheel. Because the blades were getting pretty thin, I wimped-out and did not absolutely sand down to make the burr pathes disappear. In pic 2, you can see that I had more work to do thinning the blades outboard of station 8 and at the tips. I never got the tips as thin as my profiles. Thin tips are very important because the tip of the prop is creating about as much drag as the middle of the blade. Big, wide, squared-off tips create huge drag. For comparision, pics 3 and 4 are of the first prop I made. PUT THE PROP IN THE STATIC BALANCER from time to time. Perhaps you can remove a bit of wood to get it balanced. Also check the that the tips track in-plane. If you've been conscientious about checking the station profiles against level, the twist is pretty much set and should be OK,

Some years ago Bob Setzer started a project he called A-Solution which many followed with great interest on the Canard Aviation forum. He put a tremendous amount of work into it--making molds, doing very nice work. I talked to him a couple years ago at Sun-N-Fun and he had stalled on it. AFAIK, the wings were also finished. Here is one thread http://forum.canardaviation.com/showthread.php?t=4928&highlight=a-solution It's probably a great price with the complex molds. Here're some pics below of his fuselage mold and molds for external fuel tanks. If you ever wanted to be a Long-EZ or Berkut kit supplier, this would be a good start. A-SOLUTION FUSELAGE & TOOLING • $30,000 • FOR SALE • A-Solution (Long-EZ Derivative) fuselage & All Related Tooling, contact for project details. • Contact Brenton J. Huffaker, Broker - located Lakeland, FL USA • Telephone: 8633977298 • Posted June 11, 2019

17. CARVING THE PROP - The method that worked best for me is to use a narrow 1/4"-wide wood chisel and chisel out wood on either side of the burred station cuts about 3/8" to 1/2" on either side of the station. That will leave the wood high between the stations which can be seen clearly and removed more quickly with a wider chisel or machine tools. I mainly used a body when I don't want to go too fast (seen in pic 2). I have tried a belt sander and a Harbor Freight planer but I don't think they any great advantage. The plainer was worthless. A 36-grit flapwheel disc on a small hand grinder will really do a fast (but dusty) job removing wood. (pic1) A big flexible-belt sanding machine would probably be very useful. Along the way, the face of the hub needs to be bolted level and the airfoil stations checked against level (pic 4). You will have to keep redrawing the blade centerline and rechecking level. Frankly, my profiles were very thin and I did not shape this prop as thin as the templates. In particular, my tips are thicker than desired. I worked my way out to station 9 and left the tip shaping until the end, then sort of eyeballed the shape The templates were so small they didn't seem usable and I was leery of making the tips too fragile. It was probably unnecessary worry. I could have put some extras glass out there that would have reinforced them. A BIG MISTAKE was not checking and comparing the tip position against a flat vertical surface (i.e., my mill table). This should have been an early check when starting the carving. As a result I ended up with a tracking error in the finshed prop which could easily have been fixed if noticed early. This is a problem with making a tapered prop: the tip is sticking out above the plane of the hub face/work table and trickier to locate but with care it should be easy enough.