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Kent Ashton

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Everything posted by Kent Ashton

  1. This Defiant project in California. Pretty far along. Builder was a flight test engineer. Wife selling Arlene Martinez (Area Code for Rosamond, CA)- 4o6-91o7 Link to pics posted today on HBA so I presume it is still for sale. First mentioned May 17 https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VucgXVdKg4FZ9gWyK8jO79TR3P42vFlg
  2. Suspend it from a string and take some pics. The CG wiil be in line with the string. Never done that on a model but it works on Boeing 747s. 🙂
  3. Bruce, i pretty much agree with you. I am 225+. I have flown in the back seat and it was not something i’d want to do for four hours. In the FCP I hogged out the inside fuselage foam where the forearms rub, giving me another 1 and 3/4” of cockpit width which helped a lot. My wife flew with me once and as you describe, i had to boost her tush up to the back seat. She was used to flying in the Cozy and did not like the EZ but she is old and cranky. Younger, , attractive, more agile women do not seem to object. :-)
  4. A loose-main-gear-repair pic is here, picture #12, showing a kind of rectangular alum plate https://www.burnsideaerospace.com/gallery-of-work Mods: I don't have a list but a few I can thiink of are: Cozy-style control stick (the EZ version can get loose), fiberglass pitch trim spring, Roncz canard, improved fuel valve, bigger brakes. It would probably be interesting for you to join https://canardowners.com/ I think(?) they have scanned copies of past Central States Association newsletters in the site. That was/is a great newsletter. When the world was building EZs and Van was just a little kid in knickers, people contributed a lot of ideas to the newsletters. Very interesting reading.
  5. Just talking to a gent about oil cooling and air flow differential required across the faces of the cooler to get decent cooling. I have never measured that but this Jabiru reference says 2.4" of water pressure differential is needed for a standard Jabiru oil cooler (which looks like a normal smallish oil cooler). For comparision, a Lycoming needs around 5-6" of differential through the cylinders. There is a table somewhere in this thread. See section 13.4 here about the oil cooler http://jabiru.no/content/documents/motor/Cooling_Flow_Tips.pdf It also has a good discussion of engine cooling and air flow.
  6. Engine Mounts: I couldn't say whether those EMs angles are sufficient and how to repair them but look at it this way: These airplanes are very repairable and if you have to cut into the fuselage or tank to remove/repair them, yeah, it's a big job but likely very doable and you have the reassurance that the mounts are right. Just cut stuff away until you get all the bad stuff out and expose the problem and start rebuilding. Extra engine mount tubes: Never seen that. Usually the plans firewall mounts can be upgraded with steel or larger aluminum and made stout enough for heavier engines. If you are repair that area, it's a good time to reinforce the fuselage for stouter mount angles. Main gear Mounts: You also have a hole drilled in the main gear mount angle for a rudder cable (bottom of your 3rd picture) that is a known crack point so it would be a good time to replace those angles. Marc has a photo in his gallery at Burnside Aerospace. This is a fairly common repair. Damaged screws: I am thinking you could cut out a square of the firewall with an abrasive disk--maybe 4" x 4" or more--and replace the screws on new wood and flox it back in. I brazed little wires on the heads to give more resistant to turning. Or maybe embed nutplates in the firewall that will accept screws. Nutplates riveted on pieces of phenolic are pretty stout and could be floxed into the firewall. First I melt candle wax into the threads to keep the flox out. Then maybe a layer of BID over the repair. Just some ideas. 🙂 Nose Gear spacers: Aluminum bearing spacers do not work for me because the bearings wear down the aluminum and bearings get loose. I remake them from steel
  7. The tanks that leaked are generally Mogas users or they built them with a strange epoxy. If you use the recommended EZ-poxy (EZ 87?) it seems to do fine and is even better with a post cure. I have 20 years on my Cozy using only avgas with no tank problems.
  8. Search for Open-ez on this site. Rutan said some years ago to one of our esteemed members that he did not object to people building from copied plans but he asked that they not call it a Long-ez so he would not have liability for it. The problem with building a composite with other people's kids is that it is a L-O-N-G project that taxes their time and attention span; you have to be concerned with chemicals, allergies, the cost of materials, space required and the mess of composite building. Yeah "red tape" is right. There was an outfit that tried to get gifted and/or runout airplanes for school kids to repair or work on. I can't recall the name or whether they are still active.
  9. After you eat that first Ribbestek I hope you will still have the appetite for a second. 🙂 I built a Cozy IV, then a Long-EZ. I don't think I would have had the drive to build two Cozys or two EZs although there are guys who do multiple projects. As a result of my experience with the Cozy, I made some changes to the EZ regarding main-gear mounts and firewall engine mounts. I wish I had also widened the back seat about 2" but the tub I bought was already done. I also I would have made the NG-30 nose gear box sides taller to accomodate a cover over the electric nosegear retract (to eliminate air drafts). You can see some of those changes here https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ez-project/ You should certainly lengthen the nose and beef up the engine mounts. All EZs need that with the bigger engines used these days. I used a bigger canopy similar to your pictures but I concluded later it was probably draggy and unnecessary. Looking at your pictures, I might try to flow the turtleback shape behind the canopy into the cowls without the "pinched-in" area. I predict that if you build a nice EZ you will be satisfied with #1.
  10. Good luck, Rafael. I suggest your goal at this point is to learn where to look for info and inspiration. There is a lot to take in but folks have been building these airplanes (including EZ and Variezes) for years and about anything you would want to know has been hashed over in newletters, internet groups, and websites. Here are a bunch of links here and the second post has some more. Some are dead but many still active. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/32503-a-heapin-helpin-of-builder-links/
  11. This EZ on the Seattle Craigslist. Posted today. Good deal but the engine is pretty high-time. https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/avo/d/port-townsend-long-ez/7131686541.html Rutan Long EZ 2 place Exprimental. Lycoming O-320 B3B 2000hrs/1200TOP. Catto 3-blade Seattle to LA Nonstop at 150kts/best economy cruise/180kts at 75% power. ADSB in/out Narco flip flop/transponder. Located at Jefferson County Int'l, ALWAYS hangared. No tire kickers please.
  12. A bumper serves as something on which to rest the nose without screwing up the paint. Can you rest the nose on yours? It looks like you might have scraped the last one off. If so, repair/repaint the scrape and consider relocating the bumper. generally, bumpers do not protect against damage from nosegear-up landings. There is usually a repair needed but it’s pretty simple. A PIA but simple.
  13. The bumper should be placed where the nose would touch the ground, like so: https://ez.canardaircraft.com/www.ez.org/pages/waynehicks/chapter_13_8.html Personally, I use a hockey puck or other hard rubber, cut it to a pleasing shape and glue it to the nose with micro or contact cement, then run a small rim of BID around it. Pic below is one on a Long-EZ. I used a boat trailer bumper and cut a piece off. No need to bolt it, it will disappear with a nosegear-up landing. I like the rubber bumper but there are many ideas such as the one above. https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/Yates-Rubber/YR400BLK.html
  14. Today on Barnstormers. Pretty good deal. The Plasma II Plus is selling for $1315-$1335. Lightspeed has had five iterations of Plasma, Plasma II, Plasma II plus, Plasma III. Newer versions have some additional features but you would be hard pressed to tell much difference in flight. Any of them are a big improvement over a mag. Plasma II and up use the mini-sensor or Hall effect sensor. http://lightspeed-aero.com/Products/MiniSensor.htm I am still using 2 of the original Plasmas.
  15. This project seen back in March relisted, reduced a couple thou. Pretty good deal--$13K including a 500 hour engine. He probably has $25K in it. Personally, I would have to get rid of that schnozola of a nose but that'd be easy. 🙂 pics and previous ad here: https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/?do=findComment&comment=67249
  16. Here's an old thread on the monowheel Europa. The thing that caught my eye was "no differential braking". A tailwheel airplane is already more tricky to control and without the ability to use brakes to control yaw, I imagine it could be a handful. Never flown in one. I have sat in a Europa and the wheel took up a lot of room in the middle. Redesigning the whole fuselage to incorporate the bulk of the wheel would seem to be the first big problem. When you make changes that big you might as well start with a clean sheet of paper. https://www.pprune.org/private-flying/377620-europa-xs-monowheel.html
  17. Just reading this accident where a CE-172 tried to takeoff from a 5737 elevation airstrip--St Johns Industrial, AZ KSJN--with 8600' density altitude, could not maintain altitude and crashed. http://www.kathrynsreport.com/2020/05/loss-of-control-in-flight-cessna-172n.html? I have been to that airport and a buddy of mine almost bought the farm there in his Cozy III, previously discussed. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/18661-kents-long-ezproject/?do=findComment&comment=65903 (disregard the bad info on runway width, it's a normal width) The Cessna owner was from Michigan (630' elevation). The airplane was near max gross weight with three people. The report mentions that the crew aborted the first takeoff attempt on the short runway and tried again on the longer runway. The report does not say whether the crew leaned to peak power before takeoff but that would be my guess; it is a common mistake by a sea-level pilot. Rough numbers: at 8600' DA the engine leaned to peak can only make about 75% power. At full rich it is making significantly less--maybe 65%. The fact that the crew, flying an O-320 airplane at near max gross weight with 8600' D.A. initially chose the short runway, supports the presumption they probably took off without leaning. The sloppy report does not discuss this. What triggers a pilot to think "Hmm, I should lean the engine before I roll". I have flown with pilots who never lean anytime at any altitude. However if a pilot is in the habit of leaning on the ground and leaning to peak power for his altitude, he is more likely to make the connection between a hot day at 5737' elevation and the need to lean before brake release.
  18. My EZ was an Open-ez although I registered it as a "Zipper". I liked the Zipper name and wanted to respect Burt's request to not use the Long-ez name so as to shield him from liability. Your post reminded me that I intended to send Burt a few hundred for the use of his design and, shamefully, never followed through until now. Since then I sold the airplane. Funny but ATC is always flummoxed by a "Zipper" that looks like an EZ so my buyer and I usually just call in as 'Long-ez XXX". One time ATC in California looked up the registration and told him "You can't use "Long-EZ" because you are a "Zipper". 🙂
  19. Flew the Cozy the other day and had a bad miss https://youtu.be/BZTiRdcURuI 🙂 Lightspeed (Klaus) gets a lot of criticism for his bedside manner but his systems are relatively trouble free. The nice thing is that they are pretty easy to troubleshoot. I changed the plugs--no help--then replaced the plug wires. One short wire had high resistance--about 300 ohms--should have been closer to 50. They had 740 hours, Klaus says to change them at 500. With new wires I sill had the miss so I did some serious troubleshooting per his new chart http://lightspeed-aero.com/Manuals/Troubleshoot.htm I learned that only one of my three VOMs will read the .6 ohm coil voltage. The others read high but the coils were OK. I found some loose screw caps on the sparkplugs and tightened them up. Made sure the plug wires well well seated on the plugs and coils and it flew just fine after that so It could have had a loose cap or poorly seated plug wire. 8.5 mm MSD wires have a very thin spiral conductor around the core. Frankly, I didn't know that until I watched a Youtube. It would be easy to break the conductor if you weren't aware it was there. BTW, right now I am using a variety of Autolite 386 and Bosch M8ACO 18mm plugs. No inserts required. I cannot tell any difference between NGK BR9ES plugs with inserts. Another favorite Mitchell and Webb: https://youtu.be/8HgejSCHRi8
  20. Today on Barnstormers: Infinity gear? XP RETRACTABLE LANDING GEAR • CLEANING OUT THE HANGAR • Not Sure what these where made for, large main retractable gear with Matco Wheels and Brakes and Hydraulic Actuators. They are new in the crates and I believe manufactured in the early 2000's. Wheels and Brakes are the Matco 323 Series with Internal Brakes. All you need to jump start your project. Make me an offer. • Contact Ian Wolfenden - PLANEMARKETING , Owner - located Vero Beach, FL United States • Telephone: 772-559-5557 • 772-563-0774 • Fax: 772-563-4922 • Posted May 13, 2020 This Defiant project has been advertised before DEFIANT PROJECT • $25,000 • AVAILABLE FOR SALE • Molded: fuse top w/gulwing drs/fixed wshield, fuel strakes, cowls. Wings, canard, fuse on gear.$25k • Contact Jerry Langford , Owner - located Orange Lake, FL United States • Telephone: 352 509 5511 • Posted May 12, 2020
  21. I think this is a new one--on Barnstormers today. Great time to buy airplane projects, I guess. More pics in the ad. QUICKIE Q-200 TRI-Q PROJECT • $2,400 • PROJECT FOR SALE • I have a fairly complete Tri-Q project for sale. Has fuselage with header tank and split fuselage mod installed, canopy, wing, canard (bottom side glassed, top needs completing, appears all glass to do so is here and pre-cut), fin, cowling, spinner, landing gear (nose and main), wheel pants and fairings, wheels and brakes, flight controls, tail wheel parts (should you need them) fuel tank, many many pieces and parts which I have not inventoried. Plans are included. Wing rack is not included. Project is located at KDTO (Denton, TX). Asking $3500.00 as is, where is. • Contact Dave Anderson , Owner - located Roanoke, TX United States • Telephone: 8502182427 • 850-218-2427 • Posted May 12, 2020
  22. Been corresponding with a gent who bought a Long-ez kit through David Orr ( David@canardfinders.net ) fuselage, canopy, wings, center spar, canard, hardware all for $3000. It was probably $10K-12K in materials alone and really nice workmanship.
  23. This on Barnstormers today. No pics.: LONG EZE UNFINISHED PROJECT • FOR SALE BY BUILDER • Structural sections built by an A&P. No engine/instruments. text to phone only. KFXE • Contact gary hall - NONE , Owner - located N. Lauderdale, FL United States • Telephone: 954-979-9494 • 9494 • 979 • Posted May 12, 2020
  24. I made a noselift similar to the EZNOSELIFT model but it is very fiddly to make and takes a lathe, mill and tig welder to construct. The main problem is getting the dimensions correct so everything fits and it extends an appropriate amount. Below is a picture of my innards (pic 1) you can compare to the retail model (pic 2) but I don't have drawing good enough to make one. It uses the Thomson PPA actuator and some of the parts inside the Thomson extension tube but there a several new parts that need to be made, the stock tubes are discarded and lighter 4130 tubes used. The end of the Thomson ball-shaft is hardened steel. It had to be cutoff, threaded for a bolt and pinned. No idea if that is how EZNOSELIFT does it. I have attached a text file describing how it comes apart. I only made one for the Cozy because my back was starting to protest that first 12" inches of lift. However, most of the time I put the Cozy on a rolling dolly about 18-20" high and did not have to dead-lift it very often. I did not use one on the Long-ez--never found it necessary. Yup, the retail model is a little expensive but if I had to make you one, I would be asking in the $5000 range. 🙂 Noselift Disassembly
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