sixfivelrp Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Here is my dilemma, I had a small slip with the multitool trimming the canard cutout on the fuselage. My issue is if i do the standard repair of one inch per layer, i will end up grinding way out into the good stuff, as this is in the corner where the f22 reinforcement layup is. See pics. Second opinions are appreciated. Quote FZ Long eze , # 712 On Chapter 11 and 14 Chapter 13 and 16 done. Cozy Mark 4 # 1777 Chapter 5, build on hold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Zeitlin Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 34 minutes ago, sixfivelrp said: Here is my dilemma, I had a small slip with the multitool trimming the canard cutout on the fuselage. My issue is if i do the standard repair of one inch per layer, i will end up grinding way out into the good stuff, as this is in the corner where the f22 reinforcement layup is. See pics. Second opinions are appreciated. While this cut seems to go through the inside layups, including the 4 BID reinforcement (given what the pic looks like), the area under the torque tube cutout is a low stress region. What _I_ would do here is to fill the cut with flox and then add 4 plies of BID in the same orientation as the reinforcement layups, feathering them in. The first ply would be 1" long, the next 2" long, etc. And call it good. And obviously, in the future, be really careful when grinding/cutting/drilling into major structural members. Quote Marc J. ZeitlinBurnside Aerospacemarc_zeitlin@alum.mit.eduwww.cozybuilders.org copyright © 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthony P Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 What are your thoughts about carefully grinding and smoothing a 0.5" dia. or larger "stop crack" before the flox and reinforcement layups? Not suggesting this, just wondering if this pre-layup geometry would make the repair worse, only a little better, or no change. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kent Ashton Posted December 5, 2020 Share Posted December 5, 2020 Stop-crack drilling doesn't work on fiberglass like it works on aluminum or plexiglass. On fiberglass it just cuts more of the individual strands and makes things weaker. Marc's fix will be fine. After the surface is filled, you will likely not be able to detect any bump Quote -KentCozy IV N13AM-750 hrs, Long-EZ-85 hrs and sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Zeitlin Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 11 hours ago, Kent Ashton said: Stop-crack drilling doesn't work on fiberglass like it works on aluminum or plexiglass. On fiberglass it just cuts more of the individual strands and makes things weaker. Marc's fix will be fine. After the surface is filled, you will likely not be able to detect any bump And it's the inside, so it won't be filled or finished, so no one even cares what it looks like :-). Quote Marc J. ZeitlinBurnside Aerospacemarc_zeitlin@alum.mit.eduwww.cozybuilders.org copyright © 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sixfivelrp Posted December 6, 2020 Author Share Posted December 6, 2020 Thanks Marc, doesn’t get any easier than that. On inside cosmetics, it still has to be good enough so one doesn’t stay up nights obsessing about it. Lol. Peel ply is my friend. 1 Quote FZ Long eze , # 712 On Chapter 11 and 14 Chapter 13 and 16 done. Cozy Mark 4 # 1777 Chapter 5, build on hold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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