Lynn Erickson
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Everything posted by Lynn Erickson
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The nose lift is made replace the stock nose gear so if you continue the build of the NG 30s the nose lift will still fit. you could contact Jack and ask for the templets. you don't need the brakes to finish the main gear, all you need are the axles, if you bolt on and align the axles, the brakes just a bolt on the axles. do a little every day even if it is only 5 minutes and you will get finished. Like TMann said pick up a piece of sand paper. sand for 5 minutes, thats 5 minutes less sanding you will have to do to finish.
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the best way to pull out the cross strands is to cut the strand in the middle and then pull the outboard end out from each end. this will pull the strands in the same way you are squeegeeing and will not catch and drag the fiber the wrong way
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Congrats on your new birdThe speckled paint is called Zolatone http://www.zolatoneaim.com/palette.php can be had from Aircraftspruce or Wicks if you want very good seats go to http://www.oregonaero.com/p33-2001.htm
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that wilting as you call it is caused by the manufacturer. if the cowing is pulled from the mold to soon the resin is still in a green state and can warp or sag. the tops of the cylinder is where is seems to show up the most. also many of the molds that where made are polyester boat resin and it keeps shrinking with time.
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Dave is building his designs for the people with the money. the government. because every one in homebuilding wants it for cheap, and he could not make a living on every one wanting to be his friend and trying to get a deal.
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I think this comes under the category of YES you can build anything given enough time and money. you know how to make a small fortune in aviation, right , start with a very large one.
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not really, the main part of the berkut that makes it a berkut is the fuselage and it was made in a mold. the berkut plans are used to assemble a plane that is made up from molded parts that are no longer being made. the long ez is made from raw materials.
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yes that is correct you do need a left and a right wing. funny as it may seem there have been people that hot wired two wings for the same side. I build mine at the same time. it saved time on set up for each step but you do need two sets of jigs. and two tables.
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why? there is nothing wrong with a GU canard. some have a slight pitch change in rain, most do not have enough to be of a concern. all but a few long ez's fly with a GU. any time someone has showed me a Gu that had a big pitch change in rain it was a very badly finished canard. Burt told people not to use to much filler on the plane so as not had weight. but some took it to far and did not even fill enough to make the contour correct and if you do that on a GU canard you will have trouble. contour them correctly and they fly fine.
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the prop torque is dependent on the type of prop and is set by the manufacture as for the extension go to http://www.sabermfg.com/faq.htm
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Phil Kriley's Progress
Lynn Erickson replied to Phil Kriley's topic in Builder Progress Reports & Motivation
sounds like you are talking about the cut edge of the holes in the spar. most do nothing the foam will get painted with the glass and be fine if you want to you can sand out a little of the foam and fill with micro. no need to cover the edge with glass -
He should just install the Alex Strong electric pitch trim system and get rid of the stock springs. its a very good system simple and easy to installhttp://www.strongpitchtrim.com/
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This is true when you fly with the CG at the rear end of the envelope the top speed is higher. its do to the less lift needed from the canard. when I have raced it that way it was faster but very tiring as the plane is very twitchy in pitch.
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engine shut off. your copilot pulls on it and it drains the tank into the cockpit and the engine shuts off. this is where keep it simple/stupid becomes stupid simple. As you can tell I just don't like a clear plastic tube holding fuel in the cockpit. yes it works but how safe is it in a crash. I had a friend who survived the crash but not the fire.
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not quite, the gear you have, I was a test pilot on and they still need a lot of work. still not proven to be very good. the gear I have had been tested for many flight hours on several Berkuts and Eracers before I flew mine and has been proven to be a very good landing gear system. as for the rotary, I'm thankful every day I fly that I do not have to flight test a Rotary engine on every flight.
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Ya, do as TMann says, and do as he is doing. build an untested prototype of the long eze with untested landing gear and powered by an untested rotary engine. would you fly it ? he will?
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The load of something you got is good sound advice. that is what you asked for isn't it.
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Thats true, but I think you will find that Kids are more of a hazard to the the plane then the plane is to them. airplanes are not kid proof, heck they can't even make them adult proof. if we are concerned about things at 32 " off the ground then in addition to the pitot tube you will need to make the canard tips, the vortilons, the rudders, the ailerons, the elevators, the prop tips, the spinner all have a quick disconnect for easy removal. better yet just rope off the plane and keep all kids, big and little away from it, because they will break something. oh Ya there is a need for some type of cowling detection device. one that can detect things such as toys and empty coke cans that these kids will leave for you to find during pre flight
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or maybe a video camera connected to a computer that actuates a hammer that takes a swing at the pilot if he forgets to look at the picture to detemine it is not in place for takeoff. did I miss something here? why in hell do you need it to be retractable. mine is mounted in the nose and I use it as a handle to move the plane on the ground. If it is to keep someone from running into it. well if you run into mine you will remember to stay clear of it the next time or you will be going back to the emergency room again.
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thats what is used on the stock landing brake actuator. it is two pull pull cables around a sheave
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where you need the extra plys is on the sides at the front gear leg attach point. there is a lot of side to side flex in that area I would add a couple of plys that tie in the floor and bulkhead to the NG 30. I noticed a lot of flex and latter added 3 plys of heavy carbon bid. it helped a lot but there is still a little flex.
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these are the ones I have used in the past. heavy duty are for aerobatics but are cheaper but the work fine. the same thing from Lord is about $650 for the set. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/dynosandwich.php
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Just the fact that there is a picture of it being worked on gives it a 100% better chance
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I would get some help from an experienced VE builder, read thur the plans and the mandatory changes in the CP's . the Central states is a good source for ideas on mods but remember the stuff is not been approved by anyone and many of it is just a way for someone to reinvent the wheel. as for the wing cuffs they are not out of date and will work just fine. the vortilons was just another way to do it and don't work any better. if they are to plans I would leave them on. they are also stronger and will not get knocked off by people leaning on them at air shows.
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If you have a really good reason to do so thats fine. most people that have put them in never find a reason to use them. But if you must, it is really simple if you use push pull type in both front and rear positions. just run both cables to the lever on the butterfly and when one moves they both move. I don't consider the old Brock controls a safe way to control a throttle so we won't go there.