MikeD

Colin, I'm in the U.K. and am building a Long-Ez with most of the work done. I may be interested in the Terf CD for reference purposes and to check mods etc. I do have a full set of original plans and CP magazines that have been annotated but am a bit lazy when it comes to searching through all the documentation. What kind of money are you looking for? Regards Mike

Waiter, Thanks for that info, it sounds like a good plan and far easier that what I was contemplating. MikeD (U.K.)

I have read the plans regarding making cowling attachment flanges on the wings (I understand that bit) but cannot find anything about making the flanges that fit along the top and bottom of the main spar and also over the top of the firewall where the canopy joins. I have been thinking of making up some 2”x 2” angle from 5 ply BID and attaching them with epoxy or Flox so that they are about 1/8” (or less) below the edges of the spar. Any wisdom on how it should be done or a pointer in the right direction would be appreciated. MikeD (U.K.)

Found the leak... As Kent mentioned in his post (You can also use a water manometer for this. It takes about 20" of water differential to equal 1500' of altitude. ) I made my own manometer and bought some children’s bubble stuff (I like playing with it too... pretty little bubbles floating in the air… ahem, get a grip on yourself ) and applied a thin layer with a small brush and presto… got it. I couldn’t find it with ordinary soap and water mix and after all the advice about explosions etc. I thought I’d try a more sedate way (see attachments) Many thanks for all the advice. MikeD (U.K.)

Chrissi, Point taken... MikeD (U.K.)

Kent, thanks for the idea. I've ordered a new propane sniffer (about $35) and will trying that method. I agree with Lynn's post stating that any pressure drop with the same temperature is a leak. I've been unable to find the leak with the soap and water method. I really didn't like the idea of filling the tanks with fuel to see where it was leaking. I'm about to recheck all the pipe work and fittings (if my wife allows me to do some canard work on Christmas Day:rolleyes: ) to make sure the problem is not in those components. Just for interest, I have had the following results: Pressured to 1500ft 1 hr - down to 1450ft (no temp or baro change) 2 hr - down to 1400ft (no temp or baro change) 3 hr - down to 1375ft (no temp or baro change) Left it 24 hrs and brought the workshop temp back to the original, then waited for about an hour so the inside of the tank equalized in temperature. 24 hr - down to 750ft (no temp or baro change from previous day) So you see, there’s a sneaky little leak in there somewhere just waiting for a tank full of 100L (Avgas) to cause some real heartache. MikeD (U.K.)

I’ve started to test the fuel tanks for potential leaks and have been getting mixed results. The tanks and the associated fuel lines have been sealed off and an altimeter attached then pressurised to 1500 ft. (as per plans). The results have been hard to interpret because of variations in temperature of my workshop (Boyles Law, Charles law… P1V1T1 etc.) My question is: Over what period should the system retain the pressure? What is an acceptable pressure drop? if any. Is there any other way of testing (e.g. using water instead of fuel)? I really don’t want to move on to finishing other things and find I have a problem that requires undoing lots of work. MikeD (U.K.)

Bruce, I dry mine out every 3-4 weeks (I'm in the U.K. -- damp, damp, damp!). the procedure is: Unscrew the plastic bits tap the brass filter end on a hard surface until it gets to the end of the tube. push down on one side of the filter with your finger nail and it should lift up the other side put it in the oven at about 200 deg F for 10 -15 minutes. Let it cool and refill the tube. Hope this helps. MikeD (U.K.)

Having made thousands of landings in a glider in the U.K. (a lot off-field landings as well) I would go for this kind of product found at http://www.cumulus-soaring.com/AearoE-A-R.htm. It's probably the same as mentioned by 'Dust' in the previous post reply. MikeD (U.K.)

Justin, The fix in the Long-EZ plans indicate the easiest way is to identify the leak area, apply a slight vacuum to the system then cover leak with resin. The vacuum will suck the resin into the leaking area so I would assume you have to release the vacuum reasonably quickly before ALL the resin has been sucked in. Allow to cure and repeat the procedure until the leak has been sealed. MikeD (U.K.)

Thanks Waiter, I presume the original builder was thinking about the earlier rotation during take off bit, long runways are ‘far and few between’ in the U.K. I’m fitting a O-320 and have extended the nose so I will need to pay attention to getting the CG in the correct place. There’s lots of very useful information in this thread, this forum has become a very important part of my project, a great big ‘thank you’ to all contributing members. MikeD (U.K.)

I am resurrecting an abandoned LE project, the previous builder(s) have carefully annotated the plans and I have all the CP issues. I’ ve removed the main gear to do various mods and I'm checking the main gear geometry. The plans state on p9-1 that the axle centre line should be 15inches forward of the aft face of the centre section spar (at BL 26.75) at FS110.5 . I’ve measured using the plans method, and double checked by measuring forward from FS125 but I keep arriving at the same figure of 16 inches (FS109.50). There isn’t any annotation on the plans (indicating plan changes) and I’m unable to find anything in the CP’s. relating to it. Question: Does anybody know of any plan changes that I’m missing? If this is a mistake by the previous builder, what would the implications be if I left it as it is? MikeD (U.K.)

I’m currently resurrecting an abandoned Long-Ez project and have had to re-do many bits and pieces. My latest mod involved removing the main landing gear, to do this I’ve had to remove the bottom rear fuselage cover (the bit the main gear goes through). My question is regarding the replacing of this cover, has anyone made this a removable item, i.e. bolted into place, to facilitate easy access to all the bits and pieces that live in there? When I say bolted, I really mean bolted in such a way that there wouldn’t be any chance of it coming loose and hitting the prop etc. It might be of some interest to other people taking over a project to check everything over with a fine toothed comb, don’t take things at face value. I’ve recently discovered some really dangerous faults that were just waiting to bite someone, one being badly routed aluminium fuel pipes (out of sight, crossed over, rubbing and not secured anywhere) and the other being found when replacing the top engine mounting extrusions, ALL the bolts were too long and had bottomed out on the threads! What else awaits me?

Thanks for the info. I will make the changes and look forward to doing my 6 minute flights! until the CD's arrive. I have used many simulators for gliding and getting used to intrument layouts (like PA28 and FS2004) for situational awareness, when things go 'pear shape' and you have low hours on type, the last thing you need is to be hunting around the panel for switches and knobs:confused: I've only spent 2 - 3 hours with X-Plane and so far I find it absolutely amazing. I'm really looking forward to spending some time with it. Once again, thanks for your efforts. MikeD (U.K.)

Srider, I've been using the demo ver of 8.64 and have just purchased the full version but am waiting for the CD's before I can use it fully. I'm presently building a Long-EZ that will have a Lyco O-320 B3B. The 'Long-EZ 840' file makes note of the fact that you can change the configuration from a O-235 to the O-320 engine, how do you do this, I cannot find any settings to change! MikeD (U.K.)

I’ve had many jobs/careers, they are: My Age. My job. 7-17 - Week-end working with my farther. (Building, walling, painting) 15-16 - Building site (While waiting for apprenticeship and college) 16-21 - Apprentice Diesel Mechanic /College 21-22 - BP Oil Tankers Marine Engineer 22-23 - Welder and Machining 23-25 - Forklift Engineer 25-27 - Construction Plant Mechanic 27-31 - South Africa - Heavy Transport Workshop Foreman 31-33 - Self employed (South Africa) Farm machinery repairs etc. 33-35 - Transport Manager for a Abattoir (Bacon Factory) South Africa 35-38 - National Transport Engineer (National Food Manufacturer South Africa) --- Gained my Pilots licence in Johannesburg (South Africa) --- 38-40 - Self Employed (South Africa) Marketing Cold Storage systems etc. 40-42 - Self Employed UK Marketing Cold Storage systems etc. 42-43 - Retraining in I.T. Software engineering/Data Analysis -------- Married again and started my second family 43-47 - IT trainer/Lecturer Ministry of Defense contracts 47-50 - College Lecturer in I.T. 50-60 - IT Contactor. (Software Developer/Data analyst) in the Defense and Banking sectors What's next! ... "The skies the limit" MikeD (U.K.)

Merry Christmas to one and all. I'm looking forward to receiving the engine mount, UPS has a delivery date of Christmas Eve so guess what I'll be doing on the big day! It's been a pleasure doing business with you. MikeD (U.K.)

Hi, This might help... Nuts on the AN6-80A bolt should be AN363-624, not MS21042-6 http://3rsales.com/an.htm MikeD (UK)

I live in the U.K. and need a Long-EZ Conical Engine Mount for O-320 B3B (Narrow Deck). I do have a new dynafocal that came with the project but I think it's for the O-235. Anybody ever done any kind of adapter plate/blocks to enable a conical crankcase to be fitted to a dynafocal mount. I know there are crankcase engineering companies in the U.S. that do the machining but it's a long way to send the engine MikeD U.K.

Jerry, I've tried several times to e-mail you but failed :-( From my limited research it would appear that the Cozy 3 engine mount might fit the Long-ez (Others may know differently). Would it be possible to send some photos and dimensions to mdunlop001@hotmail.co.uk (this is a throw away e-mail box in case spammers get hold of it) If it will fit, how much do you want for it? And how much do you think it would cost to send to the U.K.? Regards Mike

Thanks for the replies. I will do some research and see if the Cosy 3 frame will fit. Mike

I live in the U.K. and need a Long-EZ Conical Engine Mount for O-320 B3B (Narrow Deck). I do have a new dynafocal that came with the project but I think it's for the O-235. Anybody ever done any kind of adapter plate/blocks to enable a conical crankcase to be fitted to a dynafocal mount. I know there are crankcase engineering companies in the U.S. that do the machining but it's a long way to send the engine MikeD U.K.