MikeD

With the advancements of x-plane 12 and the marketing hype of vskylabs Long-ez (https://store.x-plane.org/VSKYLABS-Rutan-Long-EZ-Project-30_p_811.html) is there any anyone on the forum that can give an honest review of the handling characteristics of this sim?

Looking for a propeller to fit on a O-320 B3B (160 HP) SAE 2 Flange with 7/16 bolts. You may have a used one hidden away in your workshop. I'm located in the UK.

Tagging on the back of this topic because I'm interested in what's out there for a Long-ez fitted with a Lyc O-320 B3B (160 hp) that has 7/16 bolts. I have a Silver Bullet (65 x 78) but my max static is only 2135 rpm.

Steve, Could you e-mail me regarding Long-Ez parts for sale. Unable to contact you through forum. MikeD

Brilliant... just the information I was looking for. Many thanks.

Are there any resources for the Atkinson fuel sight gauge window markings on a Long-Ez without having to add fuel a bit at a time and marking it. I know this is the most accurate way but I'm trying to avoid doing it at the pumps or decanting it 🙂 Photos or measurements would be most welcome

I have temperature 'wafer' (ring type) under all four (4) BOTTOM sparkplugs. I figured this would be the hottest place so the safest place to get the temperatures.

Thanks, I will take note of all those facts.

Thinking about it logically, I need a suitable method of ground testing before first flight. Did you do any ground testing, if so what method/equipment did you use?

Once again thanks, that's the kind of information I'm looking for. Now it has to be tested in flight. Mike

Thanks very much for the info, it looks like a sensible way to go. I'm trying to evaluate or get a rough idea of how the downdraft setup is compared to the updraft layout on the Long-Ez. I've attached some more photos that show the downdraft with exhaust augmentation setup, it's basically sealed between the top cowl inlets and cylinder plenums. The inlet and outlet area was calculated or rather taken from numerous technical articles on the subject. As you can see from the previous post, the augmentation is working. Mike

Long-Eze (New build and testing for first flight) Lycoming O-320 B3B Cooling configuration: Downdraft with exhaust augmentation. Instrumentation: MGL Xtreme EFIS with four (4) "K-type" thermocouples on bottom plugs Done some engine testing today in calm conditions and 21 deg C, I had been told of someone testing their downdraft cooling by placing some wool strands in from of the inlet to check if the exhaust augmentation was effective so I thought I'd do the same. (See attached photos: The photos show that the pieces of cloth hang down when engine stopped. With engine at circa 900 rpm the cloth is being sucked into the inlet with some force.) I started of with an engine run without top cowling to check for leaking etc. Run the engine for 4-5 minutes at circa 900 rpm, the CHT reached about 160 deg C (320 F). Second run was 5 minutes later (engine had cooled down a little bit) for 10 minutes at circa 1100 rpm, CHT reached 216 deg C (420 F) and Oil temp at 90 deg C (194 F). I stopped at that point. Question: How does this compare to other LE's with the conventional (updraft) cooling set-up? Bearing in mind that I was stationary and there wasn't any wind. I have been told that the conventional cooling requires you to start moving the aircraft quite quickly.

Kent, Many thanks for the very informative reply, it's really helped me to move forward. I have already changed the engine mount extrusions when installing the new engine mount frame I purchased from Cozy Girls. I will be looking at the main gear attachment angles with a view to modifying at the earliest opportunity. Mike

Long-Ez Gross weight with Lyc O-320, electric nose gear and electric brake. Weighing in at 1005 lbs. The POH Second Edition dated October 1981 specifies a max landing weight of 1325 lbs and a max take-off weight of 1420 lbs (with conditions). Pages 53 and 54 performance figures show data for 1400 lbs gross weight. Searching the CP's I notice that in CP32 there is a note saying 'CAUTION CP is the latest and best information. If we put information in the Canard Pusher, it supersedes the information in the plans, and is the correct information to use'. Then I found the following for the Long-Ez: CP32 p12 Gross Weight 1325/1425 lb CP33 p10 Gross Weight 1425 lb CP35, 36 and 39 p12 Gross Weight 1425 lb The 'Light Aircraft Association TADS' in the UK show a max weight of 1325 lbs but I'm not sure if their data is up-to-date. Could someone enlighten me with the latest figures or a reliable link to any POH that may have been issued after 1981. I'm about to do battle and want to be sure of my facts. MikeD (UK)

D. deSosa I have just sent a PM regarding the prop extension to you. Regards MikeD

Marc, I hear everything you say on this subject and will seek alternatives here in the U.K. MikeD (UK)

Lynn, Thanks for the reply, that's great advice and info. Many thanks. MikeD (UK)

Some advice/views would be welcome on the following: I have just completed two years (circa 1500 hours) getting this abandoned project back up to scratch. Numerous mods have been done and lots of remedial work has been completed… now the finishing. I have used a primer /filler as a rough guide coat and have rubbed about 90% back off again. After filling with Super Fill (it’s so easy to work with but expensive!) I’m now applying UV Smooth Prime, mainly because I can apply it with a roller. The original primer/filler was applied by spraying in my back yard, it provided a nice overspray finish on all my house windows and my wife’s car! Hence the roller. Now the final coat, has anyone used a water based single pack finishing coat that can be either applied by spraying or roller, if you have, or know of someone that has done this, what was the finish like and how durable was the finished surface? I’ve read a lot of claims that it’s possible but never been able to verify the claims of durability. MikeD (U.K.)

Gentlemen, Thank you for the valuable information. It looks like I will be fitting the new 122 tooth ring gear and getting a good quality battery and a lightweight starter. Regards MikeD

I have a O-320 with a 149 tooth ring gear but one of the teeth is missing. I also have a new 122 tooth ring gear. Question: I intend fitting a light weight starter so what would be the best thing to do? Fit the new 122 tooth ring and buy a starter to match or replace the 149 tooth ring and buy a 149 tooth starter to match? Wye did Lycoming change from 122 to 149 teeth? I can see that the 149 will be easier to turn but it will also be slower if both starters turn at the same speed. I’ve searched the web for info but cannot find anything… any ideas. MikeD (U.K.)

Lynn, Thanks very much for the info. I will read up on the plans and get it done. I must say that I have read the plans several times for this section but didn't find the info, obviously not looking hard enough:irked: . MikeD

Hi folks, A very quick question about 'closing off' aileron ends. As you will know, the ailerons are cut out of the wing, leaving exposed foam on the ends! Now, the question is: Do you recess the foam and fill with flox and filler or do you glass over the exposed ends? Getting a nice neat edge with glassing over is quite difficult, filling with flox and filler adds weight... so what is the preferred method? MikeD

Wildbird, Thanks for the offer. I've had a look at your pictures in the past and have been intending to duplicate the method of securing the front right hand corner of the canopy. As far as the rear portion of the canopy is concerned, I've already applied some of the additional plys as per Waiter's suggestion and will be taking Waynes advice and not drilling into the longerons. My intentions with the canopy rear portion are to add some short blocks on the inside of the canopy rail that will fit inside the longerons when the canopy is shut, this will prevent any spreading but allow any small movement fore and aft due to expansion. Thanks for all the useful suggestions. MikeD (U.K.)

Waiter, Thanks for the reply, your web pages tells me everything I need to know. Many thanks. MikeD

Has anyone removed the two bracing bars from the rear of the canopy? I plan to add a hoop type of brace on the inside of the canopy and then remove the crossbars to allow the passenger headrest to go further back. Anybody see any problems? MikeD