schmeddz

I have a used Ellison for sale. It has been gone thru with a new diaphram and o-rings. All updates including the teflon plate inside the slider are done. I had intended to use this on my 0-320 but since it's for an 0-360 and I didn't want to do too much of a change at once, I'm going back to my carburetor. I'm asking $1200.

I have sold both of the Early models of Jeff Rose/Electromotive HPV-1 ignitions. I still have the brand new XDI/Modern Electroair ignition for sale. It will go on Ebay this weekend. $650 will get it. Not going lower than that.

I have four ignitions sitting on my shelf gathering dust and doing me no good. Put a dual ignition in your airplane with a spare on the shelf. Three of the systems work and one doesn't. I have three of the original Jeff Rose Igntions. One is an actual Jeff Rose ignition with MAP sensor/vacuum advance, and the other two are HPV-1's from Electromotive. They are exactly the same box. Jeff used the Electromotive HPV-1 ignition and converted them for airplanes. This Jeff Rose I ran for over 100 hours on my 0-320 Long. These are great for running along all day at 2500 rpm on airplanes since they are designed to run up and down all day in the heat and dust during auto racing. They can handle simple airplane ignition duties. The one that doesn't work (Somebody tried to modify it or something) can be used for the spare coils and I'm throwing it in. $450 for all three HPV's. The fourth Electromotive is an XDI which is a brand new ignition. I got it from Electromotive which Electroair pulls off of the shelf and modifies. (They put an 'Electroair' sticker on it and raise the price!) They also modify an existing crank sensor to fit on the crankshaft. The other option is the mag hole sensor. I have all wiring and plugs. No sensors. If you bought this online it's over $900. $750 for the XDI. Or buy all four for $1100. I have all the documentation and copies of the older Jeff Rose info as well. It will be way more info than you will get from Electroair. I can also give you install advice and photo's. You will need a crank trigger wheel and a crank sensor. $225 and $55 from Electroair. Or, you can buy a trigger wheel on Ebay for $52.95 and modify it yourself. Crank sensors are pretty much the same price. You can also add a MAP sensor to the XDI for around 60 bucks. I am using an Electromotive XDI (New version Electroair.) ignition on my current 0-320 long and I love it. I will post pictures of these items tomorrow.

The splatter paint is water based and very easy to scuff/scratch/wipe off with solvent. You can clear coat it with the spray can clear, but that is also kinda weak. I've had good results with the splatter paint spray can and a polyurathane clear coat for fuel and scuff resistance. I've used that cheap can stuff from Wal-mart with an auto professional urathane clear coat but it's been so long I can't remember the brand. (Can splatter) Unfortunately for your purposes I don't have any feedback with canned spray clears. Solvent based paints usually don't do well. You might be able to find a spray system that will spray auto urathane paint without compressors. There are several over the counter cheap systems and I've tried them over the years. I've always ended up biting the bullet and going out to buy better equipment to get pro results.

I'm the kid rolling on the floor by the candy aisle, when I don't get my gummy bears! *****ing and moaning!! Sometimes the difference between going to Okosh/SNF or just staying home is the price of the tickets. I have spent less on Disneyland and they actually have paid their 'volunteers' to be there to give service to me and mine. Not nearly as fun though and the mouse ears make me look stupid. Been poor, been doing good. Sometimes I get the gummy bears... sometimes I get to fly! Yes, I own TWO airplanes and it makes me MORE awesome, and WAY cooler than everyone else! Kinda dangerous to think that way perhaps? My ma still thinks I'm insane and will end up in a smoking crater. Maybe, at Least I won't hear her say "I told you SO!"

I personally am wondering why the Poberezny family needs so much of my money when I go to these events... Poppa Paul gets to fly that p-51 around all day and I never got offered a ride even though I paid for one several times over all these years. Just sayin'...

Every airplane concept started with an idea, then a drawing. I seem to remember a guy named Burt Rutan sketching out an idea on a napkin in a cafe right down the road from me when I was out at George AFB in Mojave. Some kinda plane that flew 'round the world on one tank of gas. That didn't work out so well if I recall correctly. Wait, didn't he send Mike into space? I guess my recall ain't so good as I get older... Those CAD concepts are too cool. Maybe it's like the Glastar? (Now sportsman) Steel frame, fiberglass shell, aluminum wings. It's totally possible to build something different that works and works well.

It should be easy enough to roll around even with the engine. It depends on your space needs. It's nice to fit things on the engine mount if you're at that point. Be shure to put some batteries in the nose to balance it. 1000 AA's ought to do it! Ok ok,,, usually one car battery in the front under the instrument panel usually works with the wings OFF. The wings will tip the balance when they are on the airframe since they are behind the CG. It also affects balance to the rear with the canard off of the frame. Regular lycomings will stay put with one battery in front and no flying surfaces installed on the plane.

I have no ego and take your muney just so you know! Wave twenty's at me and I'll be real nice to yah! It's only going to apply to airplane rides though.... The only pay it forward I saw in the warbird guys was that they would give rides to the Hooters girls at the airshows. The rest of us shleps can cough up some caysh!

Lance, You make that jerky recipe I sentcha? V says you didn't yet. Get on it! LadyMare likes the gun I gave her. She didn't get the Glock 27 though. I'm too cheep. These guys are all gonna be sooooooo JEALous when you fly yer jet!!!! They already are, you can tell with all the naysayin'. I've already got my GEntex Bone bucket colors all picked out!!! I also got my O2 mask ready since I know we be crusin' at 25k plus... yeehaw!

Long EZ's are way cooler than Cozy's. Bwahahahahah!!!! Let the flaming begin! I'm on my third Long O'Haul after starting several long projects. (I've flown two!) Build a Long from whatever source. Burt has disavowed the original Long support so you can always call it somethin' else. (Course it's still a Long, really.) All the good ideas are out there in airplanes in the last twenty years. Improvements, mods and such. Be careful who you talk to,,, some are just talkers! My first EZ was one of the ugliest I had ever seen. One of the Okosh show winners stopped at my hometown airport and parked next to me. I was embarrassed and said so. But he said "It flies doesn't it?" That left a great impression on me that stuck. He flew formation with me out of the airport on his way home to Utah. I had flown it 500nm to visit my Ma and Pa and gave all my family rides. I flew ugly #2 to RR a few years back. It flew all the way from OK to Kentucky and I didn't care how it looked. Up yours snobby people!!! 'Course I'm grounded for sanding and finishing now to make it purdy. Wish I was flyin'!!!

Hear Hear! All this talk and noise from the know it alls who say it takes some kind of superhuman greatness to fly a plane. Pshaw and Posh to those people! Training and experience will overcome a lack of both. Who would do anything at all if nothing was done to begin with?!? Enjoy the heck out of your canard.

Hey, that looks like my wiring!! Definitely NO new holes in the spar box. Too many exceptions can ruin your day, which would be your last one ever!

Degenerate is right! Lots of criticizing from some people who haven't even gotten a finished airplane yet. Sheesh! EZlady was very gracious to offer up info on the project and all she got for her efforts was more "You don't know what you're doing without an engineering analisys." We get that here at Boeing sometimes. "I know you're the expert, but I still think you're full of sh**!" It's like liberal politicians and bureaucrats telling car engineers over at GM how to design and build cars! Gov: "We want a car to get 70 miles a gallon and haul four people in safety at 70 MPH." Engineer: "We can't do that due to the laws of physics and thermodynamic principals." Gov overlord: "Well those laws are going to have to be changed and we will be the ones to change those laws." Hey Rick, You really think your gonna get a chance to get your turn with the jet??? BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!! ME FIRST!!! Bring your Credit card for the kerosine bill!!! I'll see you at the test flying when it gets running. Maybe I'll even have my second or third bird in the air by then! Maybe they will let us fly chase? (Don't hold breath!)

You planning on installing a hot tub? Since you are talking about the spar (I hope) drilling a hole thru the spar box is almost always a bad idea. I'm sure there are many who would disagree and there are numerous exceptions. I've seen quite a few things mounted to the spar box backside in the engine compartment. Brackets and things for accesories that wouldn't fit anywhere else. DO NOT under any circumstances drill UP or DOWN thru the spar box. You could hit the spar cap and damage the structural integrity of the spar box. There might be exceptions again, BUT, I've never seen anything that needs this kind of installation. Go around the spar box if you're not 100 percent certain you won't damage the structural integrity. The spar box next to the fire wall structure is kind of critical. I'm mounted my electronic engine ignition in the hell hole as well as my terminal busses for the engine instruments. All my wires go thru the firewall under the spar box where I don't worry about the structure. I also have the wires going out of the hell hole in the back seat into the spar box out to the wings. I don't like the looks of the wiring coming out of the hell hole out the back seat hole and into the spar box hole, but there it is.

You all will be soooooo jealous once it flies! ALL OF YOU!!! Hah!!!

Amen! I never thought of my first Long (O-235 <253?> ) as slow! I never thought of it as ugly either. (It was, I have newer standards for my workmanship. ) Exceptions: It was slightly slower than the o-320 Longs. It was ugly next to the showplanes. BUT! When I stood next to these guys, they never condescended to me and were very gracious to the younger guy with the slower and uglier airplane. I was in a special group.

Best place is down one of the legs. (If you can.) When I was installing antennea for friends that's where I'd put it. Glass in a large diameter straw down the leg or a nylon tube. It will give you the longest range to ground stations when in the air. There's also less interferance or directional damping. I used to talk at least 50 miles out with a properly tuned antennea with a hand held. This was in addition to the panel comm which had a little more power. That Miracle whip looks neat. But can you spead it on a piece of cherry pie?

I didn't build a cozy so I don't know about the plans. Long-ez plans do specify, and yes, when you sand the tubes after alodining and it removes all the surface and alodine! You started from scratch, scratches, literally! Sand, clean (acid, alumiprep), alodine, then bond. That should be your order. You started back on bare aluminum and took away the benefits of the alodine solution by sanding off the stable oxide coating. Cozy girls use alodine on their parts before they ship them out. They sandblast some parts that will be bonded in place and THEN alodine them. Believe it or not I actually repaired an aluminum tube on my home air conditioner that carried freon with this method. I used wet flox and Ezpoxy. It held freon for years. Yes, I know, envoiromentally unfriendly. I was young and stupid but oh so cheap! I was building an airplane, I needed my money for that! Of course I used to go right down the hardware store and buy my own R-22 freon so I could fill my own system. Those days are long gone!

Anodizing and Alodining are two completely different things. It's like an apples and oranges comparison. Anodizing deposits a hard surface coating to the aluminum which changes the bending/vibration/hardness properties of the aluminum tube. That's also in the article you are discussing. Also in that article the tube in question is a long run control tube and the canard tube is much different in torque and vibration compared to that tube that failed in the article. But, I'm not saying to use anodizing. The Alodining puts a stable oxide coating on the aluminum which preps the surface for bonding or painting. It doesn't change the physical properties of the metal. You will find that the surface of the aluminum parts when you get them from the vendors have a coating of 3003 aluminum which is pure aluminum to prevent oxidation. Alloyed aluminums are more susceptable to corrosion because of the doping elements present in the metal. You will see in the plans that the tubes used for the canard elevators are required to be alodined before bonding in place. The CP issues also noted that there was corrosion in some elevators built back in the 70's that started to bubble up under the fiberglass and required rebuilding. Look up "intergranular corrosion" or "exfoliation corrosion." They were NOT alodined if memory serves me. Someone else can probably tell you which CP issue it was in.

Yes you will notice that the hydrochloric acid also makes the concrete etch just like aluminum! You don't have to soak the aluminum parts at all. (Not a great idea, the acid will eat away at the structual integrity of the aluminum over time.) You can brush the acid on the aluminum and give it a light scrubbing or gentle brushing. The acid will take the oxides and oils off of the aluminum. RInse with water to decativate and dilute the acid. You can then brush on the Alodine while it's still wet and you will notice an amber color change as it forms the stable oxide coating. After it dries you are done. Of course don't get it dirty or oily before you bond your part into place. A quick wipe with acetone or paint thinner will remove any finger prints/oils before bonding or painting. This is after storing the part.

Go to a hardware store or pool supply place and get a gallon of 25 %phosphoric or hydrochloric acid for WAY cheap. (Or just drink it from a can of Dr. Pepper!) Driveway cleaner or etching solution or muriatic acid if you ask the hardware store geeks. (Yeah, environMENTAL concerns may have changed the rules.) It's used to lower PH in pools. I paid less than three bucks ten years ago and I'm still using the same gallon. (Probably more $ now) It goes a long way in the proper dilution with water. Too much undiluted acid and the aluminum starts smoking and forming gas. It's Hydrogen and Chlorine gas!! Dont' get it on your skin or breath the fumes! Wear rubber gloves and goggles. Battery acid can be loads of fun too! You can't always get a reaction. But the acid etches off the aluminum oxide layer and preps it for the flourine/chromate which is in the alodine. There is also cyanide and chromic acid in the alodine. BTW Hydrochloric acid is also known as metal prep for wiping down auto metals prior to priming. You will find phosphoric acid in Naval Jelly for eating rust off of cars. How does all this work? The acid etches the bad oxides off of the metal. The alodine/chromate creates a stable kind of oxide that the paint and epoxy can bond itself too. This oxide layer keeps the metal from corroding under the epoxy layers. Hydrochloric acid is also on the list of chemicals used to produce Methanphetamine! So like ammonium nitrate fertilizer, or sudafed, don't be surprised if you have to sign for it. I await corrections on my forgotten chemistry lessons.

That sounds less like "Owning a piece of history" and more like a reasonable price for a one off design.

That looks like a great deal for the money. As long as the wing attach fittings are corrosion free. I would look under the fiberglass around the wing attach fittings. There's only the one (maybe two) layer of fiberglass there between the top and bottom wing attach points. That cover is not solid structure and it's easily repaired and worth the peace of mind to dig that out and check the plates. You would never be able to buy the materiels to build that airplane for that price, let alone the amount of labor to build that far. You've saved hundreds if not thousands of hours. Have fun and good luck. P.s. if you need a canopy or Vari-ez gear leg, i've got one of each. Eventually I'll have to put these up for auction or sell 'em.

Bwahahahahahah!!! I really started something with this didn't I?? I've actually hit two birds. Not at the same time, however. (This part I really didn't make up.) I even brought the plane home safely. I suppose the only evidence I had was guts on the wing the one time, and on the winglet the next. ("Hey Schmeddly. What's that on your winglet?" Me: "Durh?? Looks like bird guts!") Popped a balloon once. Don't ask me where it came from, it was just there! Really! It took three trys! Everybody watching me on the ground said, "what the hell was that all about?" I just grinned and pointed to the string hanging on the canard. NOBODY sent me any tickets!!! We train pilots where I work. Nothing makes them any more heroic (or special) than anybody else. This guy...? right place right time. Luck, skill, training, preparation, smooth water for ditching... No bridge to crash into. It could have gone the other way you know. One of them there pilot types even said to me once, "Oh, you ONLY fly an experimental?" (Yeah, one that I built myself...! ) Don't get me started, I work for Boeing. I refuse to comment further... Peace Builders!