Drew Swenson

Does anyone have some ready-made paper templates for a cozy diffuser? Not looking for the as designed NACA---but the diffuser on the other side of the firewall. Plan was to hotwire the mold out of foam, glass it, then bolt it on. Looking to save a step if someone already has good luck with it.

6 hours down and 6 hours back from NJ. When I first went to S&F back in 96 or 97 (I had no airplane back then), the ramp was FULL of canards. Since I have been bringing a canard to S&F (from about 2003 or so to present), I have not seen that many canards. I only attend one day---so all the canards might be showing up on the days I don't attend. I usually see 1 or 2 rows of canards. Noted absence included Dynon and Bluemountain. As a side note, attended Disney as well (3 days worth). The good news is that I never waited more than 15 minutes for a ride (is that a good time to go---or is attendance down for this part of the season?)

I was there on the second day (I think). Not too much traffic on landing. I am used to a very long taxi line on departure that moves very quickly. However, when I was ready to depart, I was just about the only one there.

And if you do have a pitch change in rain or moisture----VGs will tame the canard nicely. VGs are cheap----stick them on with silicone---not glue.

It worries me that the poster does not apparently know his CG. If he does...then it worries me that he did not feel it important to post. Going from a 0235 to a O320 required stiffer springs for me at the same CG---got lots more speed that the "old" trim system could not over come. If he really has to hold full forward stick as opposed to full forward trim----with O235 engine----either the CG is too far aft or the incidence is too high. However, having flown at (or beyond---I will never admit) the aft CG limit, it is readily apparent that you are there----you are now actively controlling the airplane. Any up elevator has to be countered with down elevator----no natural returning forces-----no one can fly aft of CG and not know it---won't even trim.

Get hold of owner's manual/plans----being an owner, I consult the plans all the time. Remove the canard: Remove the battery access cover, reove 2 bolts that hold canard on (7/16). There is a quick disconnect for the pilot stick in the right footwell (pull safety pin out of pin----pull pin out). Then need to unhook the 2 trim springs---remember which ones go where. You may have a VOR BNC disconnect on the bottom of the canard. Figure out where to place your canard when you lift it out. Sort of needs to slide forward and up. If you have silicone around the seams, you will need to cut that with a razor. I just helped someone remove their canard---got everything disconnected and it would not slide out. Got under there with a flashlight and saw extra bolts doing who knows what---so I had to remove those too. Fixing the hobbs----1st thing I would do is to remove the hobbs from the headrest---and make sure it is not reading tach time. Unhook it----and bench test it on a battery. At least then, you can isolate it from the aircraft. Your problem may or not be the loose wire. With the canard off, you can trace your loose wire. A volt meter/continuity checker can greatly help you out here. Working on the ramp sucks---in the sun our out.

I assume that you are talking about a Longez or Varieze----pull the canard off to take a look. There is also a little "splash shield" above the instrument panel. On Cozys (and some Longezs), the whole top from the canard to the inst panel pops off (hinge wire on my Cozy). Study the wire diagram for your aircraft to see where everything goes. Take a look at the back of your suspected instrument. Use your documentation or internet to figure out which wire is supposed to go. Hobbs should only have power and ground going to it. Use your voltmeter to figure out which one is power and which one is ground.

You don't even have to retract to half way to get this effect. The good news is that you will track straight down the runway---but if you were pointed towards the side of the runway---you will track there just as fast. The great thing (tracking down the runway) is that you can apply brake on the remaining side without really turning the plane.

Parents live in Kissimmee.

Beta and C/S props to rich for me---I like my $1200 lightweight carbon fiber/wood prop.

Using both rudder simultaneously is pretty effective (Cozy/Longez). Another trick you can use is to dump the lift vector---very quick left and right rolls up to about 30 degrees or so on final---with both rudders out---so quick that you really never change heading. This will swish your lift vector left and right---and give you more ROD without increasing speed. And of course, if you are really gooned up, you just have to add power and try again. I don't use sideslips either to increase my ROD in EZ aircraft.

I will be there for at least one day--most likely the first day (wx permitting).

Excess speed on approach/touchdown, will translate to greater stopping distances. Trailing edge fences (big ones for a Cozy) may help getting the landing speed down. One of my near future projects.

Marc speaks the truth---but you can look in the POH to get those numbers. Once you deviate off the plans---like the O320 in my Longez, then things sort of deviate from there. Asking what people are doing is just asking about pers mins----unless someone wants to share new tables based on flight test data---but then again, that is more or less for THAT plane. Anyway, my pers mins are set for landing---not takeoff---and takes care of just about any kind of flying that I would care to do east of the Mississippi. With that said, my pers mins tell you absolutely nothing about performance---except that I give myself another 1000 ft in the Cozy----and again, that is stopping performance. I know that I can step on the binders and stop a lot sooner---but why work that hard to get into an airport. For newbies on either airplane, I would start at 4000 ft, then work yourself down. You will want to make sure you can hit that 2 or 3K mark on a 4k runway-----not just go for it, then figure out you can't make it.

My personal limits are 2000ft for a Longez and 3000ft for a Cozy.

The other issue is that it is very difficult to do maint/improvements outside---unless it was some pretty simple maint. Just took my first flight of the year after remounting my axles (had a toe out situation corrected to 1/4 deg toe in---also corrected 7 deg of camber). This small down maint period also entailed changes to the wheelpants due to the axles. Also removed all the side to side nose gear slop by switching to taper bearings. Very happy with the changes. BTW, I have room for one more EZ at KBLM (NJ).

Sorry---did not understand the post---and I am interested to see what was wrong. Sensor? Wiring? Installation error?

Not sure that I understand what a pull-pull cable is---unless you mean a "bike" cable. The original brock cable is just a "bike" cable. The springs on the engine side are only to put tension on the wire to keep the throttle from feeling spongy. Once check you have to do is to be able to actuate the throttle without the springs---if you can't your installation is hosed. If you have a carb with an accelerator pump---don't think this setup will work at all. The push-pull gives you positive actuation in both directions---and requires no springs. For actuation of a rear throttle, you just need both the R/C and F/C throttle arms connected by a stiff rod---no cables. Go see the setup in many tandem aircraft.

http://www.ez.org/smf/index.php?topic=1077.0 http://www.ez.org/smf/index.php?topic=541.0 Sorry no pix---all the drawings that you will need are in the referenced pubs. It is very easy.

I modified my brock for push pull

That tells me you have a problem with the sender line----or the sender itself I assume that the power and ground line is ok since it at least reads zeros. Eliminate the problem with the aircraft wiring by tapping directly into the sender with a separate line. If still zeros, then you may need to buy a new sender.

And from the Navy side of the house:) ... Once you have the airworthiness certificate for the aircraft, there is a line in there telling about how the aircraft is for day, VFR flight----unless equipped for night and/or IFR. A quick search of the FARs will tell you what you need for night and/or IFR. The Varieze has smaller panel space than a Longez----which does not lend itself very well for an IFR cockpit----however, it has been done. I only do "light" IFR. All (?) the Ezs leak in the rain (at least my Long and now my Cozy do) plus the water chews the prop. While you can get heated probes, you have no anti-ice capability.

Vortilons were first called out for the Varieze in CP 42 pg 5. Interestingly, they were not recommended for the Longez at that particular time.

CP 21 pg 5 further talks about elevator balance for a varieze (3.9 left and 3.6 right (max) when balanced)

Even with fuel injection, you still need a mixture. This is what is setting your air to fuel ratio---whether you want to be lean or rich of peak----and to shut off the motor. I believe that there are applications out there which use a computer to control what that mixture is (FADEC)-----and I believe that is what you are referring to.