rviglierchio

Does anyone have a line drawing of the Long EZ to use for paint scheme dreaming?

Then vote, former Cessnapilot, I'm the only lonely flying non-builder in the poll so far.....

The bannanas aren't working but the point is clear! Congrats!

Thanks Waiter. I have been sent this link that takes into account the angle for my engine mounts. Looks like just what I need. http://web.archive.org/web/20050907044214/http://www.intergate.com/~msnook/aviation/eng_stand/eng_stand.htm Thanks again. Dave

Has anyone modified an auto engine stand to hold a Lycoming? I'm looking for a salvaged engine mount to modify in some fashion unless anyone has worked this out already and can share the method. Thank you.

Thanks John, great new look to this sad old laptop!

Jon, Bill's link isn't working...?

Don't forget your elbows will be in the strakes making it a lot more roomy in the middle area. But if your shoulders don't fit between the longerons that will get worse with the rods for the canopy along side them on the left....

Not sure how to attach photos so here's a try of the Piaggio at Oshkosh...

Hans, You should have no problem with moisture in walls as most new slabs are poured on very thick (40 mils) vapor barrier and if tht caused wall problems we would have known long before now. I did epoxy only to a garage floor 20 years old after tremendous preparation and it's dry and cold! Dave

As a construction manager I can tell you the only thing I've seen done for insulation that you can still reach is to insulate the edges of the slab down as far as you care to dig. I've always wondered at the value to this but the experts specify it in cold climates. Use as thick an insulating foam board as you can afford. As to moisture, there are products on the market that are used to stop leaks in basement walls that may also work for your floor. Burke and Sonneborn are two of the major brands. Google the subject for more info. Don't forget any application usually requires a very thorough cleaning/prep of the floor. Unless it's relatively new this is hard work. If your floor is of newer vintage we most always put a vapor barrier down and the sand is used to both protect it during the pour and allow moisture to get out during the early curing. But if you know it's not there, and it's often deleted under non-living spaces, then the sealers may be helpful. I'd also consider using a sealer that would be compatible with a later application of epoxy floor paint should you wish to go the final step to a really great shop or hangar floor. The epoxy alone solved my garage problem but in a warmer climate. Good luck. Dave V.

I think Marc is gettig a chuckle here at the expense of my naivete... Anyone else care to join in? I need to resond to the fellow that is giving these possible lame excuses for a lot of things like safety wiring oil filters is optional, shrinking battery posts, etc. If he's right then I'll understand but things sound fishy... Thanks!

I maybe check them every couple years.... rarely find them loose....a lot more starting cycles.....maybe I'm getting my leg pulled here?

I was told by an A&P that my loose battery cables are caused by shrinking battery posts that occurs normally with each start cycle, particularly when new. Is this true? It's only been 15 hours since he worked on it, the battery is not that new and they were very loose. Thank you for any advice.

Marc, On that "other" forum a fellow has not been able to get in touch with RST. He gets an old recording from last summer. Are they still in business? I have a product of theirs I need to talk to them about too. Dave

I've recently developed an oil leak out of the end of the crankshaft behind the prop. Fortunately this is the first leak in this engine with 1700 SMOH. One friend warned that it may indicate a plugged breather and may get much worse very fast. Others have suggested it's just the start of increasing leaks in a motor coming to the end of it's TBO. And others tell me they don't trust an engine that doesn't leak! What say you engine gurus? Is this seal replaceable or does it come out only when you split the cases? Thanks for the help. 762BH

Would anyone with first hand knowledge of ECI kit engines care to comment on their experience with the company, their build, and any after market concerns about the components? Is there an AD program in place for experimental engines? If not, how do experimental owners know when something becomes a problem? Thank you for your advice!

Do you have to go through AC Spruce to buy from Todd?

Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of Falcon Instruments? I'm looking to replace an Aeritalia Gyro that nobaody wants to work on with something affordable and Falcon appears to be the only Non TSOd outfit I can find. Any other suggestions would be greatfully appreciated??? Thank you, Dave Viglierchio Davis, CA

I just got off the phone with a Long EZ multiple builder, long time flyer who told me he once had a prop of that brand and couldn't wait to get it off the plane. It may be a contibutor to the overall problem. I've been researching props and it seems to come down to either Hertzler or Catto for best performance. Good luck.

Was there ever a problem with the types of foam being used for the construction of the EZ line? My non-experimental pilot friends seem to remeber something about this and I'm researching Long EZs to buy a completed model. Am currently looking at a 20 yr. old aircraft. Thank you. Dave

I'm finally going to join the Canard Zone and fly a Long EZ. I need to find the right one. Is there a known expert out there that could be hired for consultation in my quest for knowledge of the EZ and perhaps assist in the inspection of potential candidates? Thank you for any help! Dave Viglierchio Davis, CA drvii@hotmail.com