spitzy

Been looking at builder web sites. Others have had this question as well. If you install the spool piece at the angle shown on the drawings (126 degrees??) then the hinge pin holes don't line up. One builder chose to install the spool piece per the drawings and found that the actuator arms hit the canard. In hindsight, he said he would have installed the spool piece so the hinge pin holes lined up.

The plans don't seem to provide direction on how to accurately adjust the spool piece before drilling holes into the elevators and installing bolts to attach the elevators to the spool piece. CH11 Pg. 6 says to adjust the spool piece so the control arms are "almost vertical". The best way I could figure to get the correct angle was to use the NC-7 jigs to align the elevator with the CZNC-12A Assembly. Doing it this way would make sure the travel of the elevators is correct and make it easier to install the hinge pin. However, I'm not sure if the angle the control arms make with respect to the bottom of the elevator is more important for balance reasons.

It's the "A notch" description in the plans instead of maybe something like "one of two notches" that makes me wonder... There was a picture in the plans also but it isn't clear enough to tell one way or the other. I can't think of a reason why you wouldn't make two notches other than maybe there would be a small reductionin strength. It looks like it only making one notch could limit travel of the elevator but I'm not sure.

Are you supposed to file notches into the torque tubes on both sides of the NC-2 Insert?

I've cut out the aileron, built the trailing edge spar, cut my hinges, and cut out the three .2" notches on the top of the trailing edge spar where the hinges are go. 1) The four layers of BID at the hinge attache points is not thick enough to allow the top of the hinge to be flush with the surface of the wing. Should I build additional thinckness in the trailing edge wing spar to make the hinges flush with the top surface of the wing skin or leave a bump on the top surface of the wing caused by the hing joints sticking up? 2) The instructions request that you cut out the .2" notches for the same dimension as the hinges. However if you snub over the hinge pins then the notches need to be bigger to accomidate the additional length caused by the hinge pin. Also, if you cut the notch to be the same width as the hinge is long (per the instructions) then I don't see how the hinge pin can come out. Why do we snub the hing pins? Should I cut out extra lenth in the notches for the snubbed hinge pin? Should I cut the pins flush and not snub them? What have others done here? 3) I think I remeber reading somthing about using teflon hinges instead of the aluminum. Any opinions here? Thanks!

Just got back from Ukia. Picked up a bunch of SWEET pre-fabbed parts from featherlight. Anyway I asked Mike and Larry about this question. Went back and forth about it and determined that is shouldn't matter if my conduit comes out of the recessed vertical face inside that wing root or if it is bonded along the inside of the "wing cubby". (sorry I've had a few beers and don't know the real word for that inside area along the upper side of the wing root. From now on I'll call it the wing cubby) Seems to be total paranoia on my part...

Anyone have any ideas about how to modify the Cozy IV to cruise at 300 mph?

Not sure if you are supposed to counter sink those rivets or squish the ever loving heck out of em... Anyway I thrashed around for a while, got something that looked like it would work then bought the plates from Cozy Girls. Theirs are much better than mine. I highly recommend purchasing these parts. Big time savings and it made it easier to line up / install the lift tabs and bolts.

Sputnik :-)

Papa, What is the best way to contact you? I might be interested in speeding up my project. -Mike

I've been looking at some builder web pages for pictures of the root section of the wing. It looks like that rudder conduit exits the shell... Almost the same way I built mine. I'll post what I ultimately choose to do in case others have this little problem.

Looks like the plans conflict here. If you look at view G-G the Rudder Conduit exits the vertical plane of foam INSIDE the shell. However if you read the instructions for step 8, you need to route the rudder conduit down .7" over the last 8" length at the root of the wing. If you follow the Step 8, you find your conduit exits the vertical edge of the actual shell. Because I've moved ahead, I'm not sure what is correct. The picture or the instructions in CH 19 Step 8. I assume the picture is correct but I'm not sure. If the instructions are to match the picture, I think you should start dropping the conduit down to .7" over the last 8" before the vertical plane INSIDE the shell. Also note if you measure the picture, the conduit exits this vertical plane .7" below the top wing surface. Any one know how this wing gets attached so they can verify how to route the rudder conduit?

This is a pretty old thread. Is there now a best solution confirmed?

I understand epoxy is not resistant to alcohol. I also understand fuel is being blended with alcohol. Any bulletproof solutions to alcohol proofing the fuel tanks on the Cozy out there?

CRAP. I layed up the top and bottom spar caps only to find there was a strip of bondo embeded around the corner of the shear web under each spar cap. This happend because I put a bunch of bondo along the boards used to create my dams. I didn't like what I saw at the time but I figured it would be easy enough to scrape out a little "fillet" of bondo. I started with my grinder to get it out and it apears I will have a channel carved out between my spar cap and the shear web almost the entire length of the shear web about an 1/8" deep if I'm to get the bondo out. It's also impossible to crind out the bondo without damaging the underlying spar cap layup. I think I'm going to scrap the part. Bummer after all the hours I've got into it but I just don't feel comfortable with it. Any one have good success creating a dam that is both sturdy, doesn't create bondo between the spar cap and shear web? Maybe the best bet is to use a board that goes all th way to the table and ensure the bondo used is put on there well below the rounded corner. Then the long fibers will fall down into the crack or rounded area and fill it up nice and strong.