Steve Innova

If each bolt hole were attached to independently moving/vibrating objects, then yes, the mount would quickly fail. But don't forget, the engine block and the firewall are themselves rigid structures that tie the otherwise unjoined ends of the mount together.

What is the advantage of a conical mount vs. the other types?

In addition to all of the above reasons, hydraulic lines would greatly inhibit your ability to remove the wings. If you used silicon based hydraulic fluid, you run the risk of hopelessly contaminating your composite material surfaces, and the mineral based fluid has that nasty flamability issue to worry about.

Remember me? -- I sent you an email about 4 months & asked for some pics of your plane. I've been working on it non-stop and have the fuselage shell completed. I just installed F-22 and am working on finalizing the seat, instrument panel, and air-duct positions. Here's a pic of the installed F-22. I've built part of the upper hull too, it's just not installed yet. I'm writing plans for it, should have a draft of the first section ready for Oshkosh. Hoping to get a couple adventurous builders to become "beta testers" as I develop the design and finalize the plans. I haven't settled on a name yet. Any ideas??? What I meant was there was some bad blood between JD & Stan during the SQ2000 development. Stan ended up redesigning the gear, which I guess is what you have.

You can also do the sides one at a time if you don't have a lot of room in your shop.

Jon, You're being way too careful. It doesn't matter if the space between the longerons on the two SEPARATE sides are equal all the way down. The longerons just need to be level with the top edge of the foam sides. As soon as you finish glassing them, you'll separate the sides and all your work to make sure the two sides were exactly 7/8" apart will be irrelevant. Just make sure when you install the sides & bulkheads that your longerons are level with each other. Those laser levels are only accurate to about 1" over 50 ft, at best. The beam spreads. When attempting to make parrellel lines, squares, rectangles, or right angles, you'll do MUCH BETTER using a measuring tape and this old formula from grade school: a2+b2=c2

Fuel Selector has been SOLD.

Specifically, what was the problem? Legs couldn't fit comfortably under the instrument panel? Not enough head room? Too narrow? Each of these problems can be solved through relatively simple modifications...

Adjustable Ratio Epoxy Dispensor (J&B Products, Model AR-100) for sale. Price new is about $260, I'll sell it for $150. It needs new dispensor buckets / resevoirs, availabe from Aircraft Spruce for an extra $23.80. Other than that it's in good, working condition. I got this as part of a package deal on a bunch of Cozy parts, and I already have an epoxy pump. Send me a private message if you're interested. The reservoir part numbers from AC Spruce are: 01-15920 EPOXY PUMP RESERVOIR SMALL $9.90 01-15910 EPOXY PUMP RESERVOIR LARGE $13.90 Made by: J&B Products 8661 NW 24 Court Pembroke Pines, FL 33024 (812) 282-5493

Andair Fuel Selector for sale, model number FS20x4-F If you've never seen one before, this is truely a thing of beauty. Brand new in box, never been used. Costs $200 new, selling for $150. http://www.andair.co.uk/system/index.html

I have a roll of 180 yrds of spar cap tape for sale. AC Spruce sells it for $1.55/yrd = $279, make me an offer.

I've redesigned the fuselage, and it's shallower than the standard MkIV tub, so the lower mounts need to be moved upward. By how much... not sure.

I'm trying to plan my engine mount hard point locations. Does anyone have 3D models of the various engines?

I just won this auction. It looks like there was a lot of interest! There's a lot of stuff included in this packge -- if someone is was really interested in a specific item, I might be able to help you out, once I get the whole package. Send me a private message.

My design isn't an SQ-2000, but it's pretty close, and most importantly, will be a PLANS BUILT design. Made a lot of progress on the prototype and hope to have first 3 chapters of the plans written by Oshkosh.

I sincerely doubt that JD Newman will EVER sell his gear to Stan Montgomery or anything associated with the SQ-2000.

Concur - the above remark would be offensive. It doesn't appear that I can delete or edit comments on your forum.

Obviously this isn't the forum for French directed humor, so I appologize I've offended anyone. But strictly speaking, the above joke wasn't racist -- making fun of a multi-ethnic, diverse country like France is nationalistic.

Criticising France isn't political, it's natural if you're anything other than French.

So they'll sell arms to the Iraqis but won't sell you plans? Try writing that you're name is Mohammad and you only want to learn how to steer, not to land.

I'm sure if you wrote to them and told them of your plans to rebuild the Luftwaffe they'd be much more accomidating. Just make sure to confirm that the IBIS has the range to bomb Paris from Germany and they'll have no problem selling you anything you want. Of course, such a request might attract the interest of the French security services. In case you'd forgotten France's national alert system: Level I: Gesturing exitedly Level II: Ineffective combat operations Level III: Surrender Level IV: Collaboration

Have you checked out the price of carbon fiber recently? I see quotes that it's "3 times the price of fiberglass". Ha, not even. There's a worldwide shortage of carbon fiber. Multiply by 10, at least.

If you want great instruction on vacuum bagging, go to this site: http://www.fibreglast.com/contentpages-Vacuum%20Bagging%20Equipment%20and%20Techniques%20for%20Room-Temp%20Applications-230.html I've found the www.fiberglast.com site to be a great resource on all-things composites. They have in-depth instructions on mold making and many other topics. One of my favorite sites. If you want to explore a really neat variation of vacuum bagging, check out resin-infusion: http://www.fibreglast.com/contentpages-Vacuum%20Infusion-316.html This technique allows you to do layups without EVER touching the epoxy. Although it requires considerable skill to do properly, for those suffering from epoxy allergies, it's a way to finish your plane.

Len, The entire part, foam and all, goes into the vacuum bag. Obviously the peel ply / bleader layer only goes on the layup side, but the entire part is subjected to vacuum. If it's properly sealed, there's no way for air to get into the layup. I'm not trying to sound arrogant (or cast myself as an expert) or anything here, but it's really an undisputed fact among composites experts that vacuum bagging produces higher quality, lighter layups and parts. There is a learning curve and it requires more skill than wet, hand layups, but vacuum bagging is superior.

If you have dry patches, that means that the vacuum is not uniform. Use a real breather layer (maybe $5 a yard from AC spruce -- save money by getting fake "fleece" from Walmart), to get a uniform vacuum. Or, perhaps the paper towels are wicking up the epoxy before you apply the vacuum. An important distinction might also be that I used the dry micro method to prep my core. I applied micro and glass in two steps. First I applied the micro to the foam, let it cure, and sanded. I then applied my layups to the cured micro. Why is this important? Well, if you coat the surface with micro, then lay up your glass, then vacuum bag it, most of the "pure" expoxy will get sucked into the breather layer, and the micro will get sucked up into the glass plies. This is bad, because your replacing glass w/micro bubbles, weakening the part. If you don't want to try the dry micro method, then lay up your parts with just pure epoxy on the surface--no wet micro. (Wouldn't recommend this for Divinicell / Blue Foam, too heavy). I don't know if it makes a difference for you, but it worked for me. My pump setup wasn't working properly, so I only had mayb 7" HG. Next time I'll try it w/15" HG. From what I've read, you don't want to go over 15" HG on most foam core substances. Between 10-15" is better. For the blue styrofoam on the wings, even lower. Don't remember, but probably not more than 10" HG, max, or you'll start crushing the foam. You need a vacuum guage and bleeder valve if you want to do this right. They're cheap. $12 for the vac guage, you can use an air compressor bleader valve from Home Depot. All my fittings and hoses are from Home Depot, cheaper that way. For single layer components (no core material) you can go up to 28" HG. Lay up your parts very wet, put down peel ply, coat the peel ply w/epoxy so that there's no dry spots. Then lay down your breather layer (unlike paper towels, a real breather layer won't wick up the epoxy UNTIL you apply vacuum.) Then apply vacuum. I used a heat tent to speed the cure.