steve

206 that's seattle wa

i love it when" some" want to fix the cozy. and i hope good luck with that.

i was in Steve rights plane with wider gear and set back gear, on landing he warned me about the" plop"

i was in jacks 1o- 540 and he told me about the "plop" (bang).

both planes are very close to stock (with in 4").

your mite be 15" back(guess) iir.

you will need to buy lots of struts for the front (one per landing)

that spar in 1/2 urethane where you want to bolt to.

in. gear has a 25 bid plate ( 12" by 6" ) iir.

but its horizontal, yours is flat, not the same.

my point is, a hard landing with your concept will have fuel departing the plane and cost a 3000 to repair

the stock way would be 500 and 3 days work.

most big mods will take over a year and be untested

i use the West pumps. for the most part they are fine, just very slow. when i need a big mix i pull out the pumps and wight it by the cup full.

if the ratio is the same i see no problem's with the switch from MSG-to-west pumps. so many mixing jobs are under a pint (1000) the Little pumps way out do the scale, i used the scales for 2/3rd of the build.

Don't listen to tom, we saw him tip the ups driver a fin the other day

i cant find were is saids to fill in the gap between the strake and wing.

can some one point plz

2 uni croxed

i cant find were is saids to fill in the gap between the strake and wing.

can some one point plz

did you re calculate the lift ? fir is for props not longs. what were you thinking ? and did you paint them blue? heat is a big no no.

next your going to use curtain liner for peel..........shamless

Great point Marc, thanks for bringing that to my attention.

 

B

paint over the offending ?

In the canard video that I bought from Aircraft Spruce, the LongEZ guy says that his project didn't really take away from family time because his kids were involved. When I work on my Cozy, I find that A LOT of time is spent working with epoxy, making dust, or operating power tools, none of which are good environments for small children.

At this point, my kids are too small to participate in my project, but it would be nice to have them with me, even if they putter around doing something else. Could I get some suggestions on how to involve the kids? When are they old enough? How can I make it safe and fun for them, and still be able to work on the plane?

 

Joe Polenek

it would of coarse include a balsa dime store wood plane.......ext,ext,ext.

(insert story board here) mine mite go like this....daddys plane cant fly till it has a loopdy-loop test done with this little wood plane....ext,ext

or how about the BRS testing (army man/parachute)

the water gun leak check

paint scheme by johny....(water colors,big paint easel set up in side of shop)

FAA child testing board, a must.

one, must be able to pass the marble rolling down the wing test....est est

two, how many bubbles will fit in side the canopy (with a fan turned on)

blue foam......and Kidd's, lots to do there !

15 Min's a plane day would make a builder out of any kid (even us)

welcome, sorry to here about your flu. take 2 M drawings and get lots of sleep over the next 3-10 years

never discard old layups, there are so many things you will do with them

its fun to cut up chunks for your friends to try to brake them:p

sanding blocks.

Ok, I've been trying to get started building an open-ez for a couple of years now but life keeps getting in the way. So instead of starting on the fuselage, I've spent what time I have had available in building metal and wood parts and research. I want to build a pretty standard long, with only a long nose mod and maybe a forward opening spit canopy and a rollbar to replace the ugly head rest. My question is during all my reading and research, I came across a person building a long with a fuel sump in the back and no fuel selector in the cockpit. I think that the verieze was built with a sump in the back. What are the pro's and con's of removing the fuel selector from betwixt your thighs? It seems to me that it would increase safety by removing a potential point of failure from a sticking valve/switched to wrong tank in a crisis? Also it removes the potential for being showered in fuel in case of a catastrophic failure involving rupture of a fuel line/valve in the event of a hard landing? I don't know enough about this to form an opinion, so please share your thoughts. Thanks Anthony

there is lots of pros and cons for that move, read for a day and you'll go with the plans way

Damn...I'm jealous. Are there palm trees?

Its gray and nasty here.

 

I did my first layups tonight...glassed the back of the F22, F28 and the IP. I won't know how they came out until I peel off the plastic sheeting, but I think I squeezed all the excess glue out along with all the air. Waiting on the 7725 BID to glass in the F22 doubler as the 7781 is not nearly pliable enough to be going around any corners. That stuff is a fairly tight weave...probably why its stronger.

 

One thing is for sure; the plans say you can lay these bulkheads up using strips to save BID cloth and thats not a good idea. Especially on the IP, which you're going to have to look at all the time. Its better to just cut out two full layers of glass and eat the scrap than try to piece it together. I should have known better but pieced it together anyway. Now I'll have to smear some micro on it to smooth out the joggles.

 

Luckily, I've got my trusty Porter Cable vacuum sander. Makes quick work of anything you go after with it...and the shop vac hoovers up 90% of the dust. I can smooth out that IP in about 10 minutes...but its just another thing to muck around with because I was being cheap and trying to save glass. Stupid F%#&@*$ Me...I have plenty of glass.

 

The Pro Set epoxy seems to be nice stuff though - fairly low viscosity and doesn't smell hardly at all. I probably used too much, and then squeegied alot of it back out again after covering with a plastic sheet.

 

I made a heat tent out of two 24"x24" 400w radiant panel heaters set in stands on either end of the layup, with cedar deck boards laid across between them and a sheet draped over the top. We'll see if it works.

 

Ok, thats it. Miller time.

plastic and peel ply need/holed in a lot of epoxy, and Burt knows that.

so he has you peel ply only the parts he knows you will bond to other parts.

all to often i look at the final part and think the peel looks better so i peel the hole part:( remember, you do not want the glass full of epoxy, just the fiber.

i use the plastic to wet out the glass,then cut to shape, then place over the part,squeegee the air out, remove the plastic and input peel as needed(and in most cases you'll need to add epoxy just to get the peel to stick.

the way you stated you did yours sounds like they were light and not over done:cool: next try tin foil for that crappy little layup behind the ip and the lower layup on the upper forward longeron(o wait, that one in in 2012).

thaks steve, and yes it has been nice.

(but i miss my dog ) and my build.

i have not seen my plane for a single day this year !

Are you not in Tacoma Steve? I got your PM and will give you a call soon.

I'll be mailed home on the 4th.

Sorry, I thought of this after I posted the above, but also go ahead and print the open-ez templates on your home printer on either legal size paper or just regular paper. I find these not-to-scale drawing handy for lots of reasons. First you get the practice of joining multiple sheets. Second they are much easier to handle when you are in the studying, pre-build phase. Third you can mark them up, make notes, write out questions that need clarifying or more study, while keeping your full size templates clean and clear. Hope this helps. Anthony

the cool part is i never had to cut the book/M's drawings.

Uhhh, well....my plans say to jig it upside down and the top of the sides are straight and flat, so it only makes sense.

 

It's not a Cozy. Its kind of a Long-EZ...or maybe more like a Fat-EZ.

 

Still waiting for UNI from ASS.

 

ASS must stand for Always Ships Slow?

Hey fellas, I'm off for the next few days and despite the buttnumbingly cold weather in New England I'll be working in the shop.

 

Next up is the landing gear bulkheads. I was wondering if anyone remembers about how long the 22 ply (+/- to get 0.25") layup took then. I'm trying to plan around some thing so I can wrap up chapter 4 over the weekend and the hard point layup seems like it's going to be the biggest single consumer of my time.

i did the bulkhead ruff layup, the next day i cut the bulk head to shape and added in the hard points and subsequent layups.......i think it was all did in a weekend but if you read it different some where I'll Dennie this post ever happened !

I heard a rumor that there used to be some .pdf Aerocanard plans flying around. I ASSume that this plane uses the same main gear bulkhead mounting system that the Cozy does, and I would like to see a drawing of how it's put together. Or a Cozy drawing...or a link to a builder's site with enough pictures that I can figure it out.

 

Thanks in advance.

(out side of pinning them up on the wall).

you are welcome to come by and see them.

Or Kwanza or whatever. Eat Drink and be Merry.

 

We're having goat stew.

While working on the bottom surface of my canard, I've discovered that the trailing edge is about 1/16" too short, according to the Canard Bottom Contour Checking Template. Should I...

 

(1) Repair the canard TE to extend it.

(2) Leave the canard TE short but install the elevators forward by 1/16" so their position relative to the canard TE is correct.

(3) Don't worry about it. Proceed per plans.

 

 

Joe Polenek

Talking to yourself?

 

There is most definitely a kink at the trailing edge. Sanding it flat will make quite a mess...

there is also some blame placed on the hot wire templets.

some say its the way they are.

i have a set for jig templets sent to me and will start tonight makeing a new set and look for a flaw or lack -there- of.

what a can tell you is that when the wing is built, there is still no way to see the kink.. you cant stand in a spot to eyeball down the wing and the kink is hidden by the aileron.

i have no kink in my #2 wing and a small one in my right one and it looks like there was a small offset in the cutting jigs in block 33-65.5 BL

The 7" cut line (i.e. WL17.4) does not pass through the TE. The TE's position w.r.t. the cut line is different for each template. If you look at the two TEs shown on M22 (or Open EZ dwg A13), you can see that it is above the WL17.4 cut line on one template and below it on the other.

 

Joe Polenek

I'm lost, my best guess is the left wing is 0 deg over the 67.bl (end of strake)

and 8mm down at the tip (about a foot back for the blend) measured from the LE.

the water line at the wing tip is .08 down(that is measured from the LE to the TE ) what do you all think ?

bottom line (this time) is 3/8 low....3/8 twist . :confused:

run with it ? or start over or a third option ?

Hi Everybody,

 

Does anyone know of any varieze aircraft with corvair engines? I was checking out the engine mount on the varieze project I just traded for and it looks like the four main attach points would be located under the crank case. The only engine I've found with a four bolt pattern under the crank case that looks like it would fit my engine mount is the corvair engine. I would like to put a photograph on this site for you guys to look at. Can somebody tell me how post a photograph?

 

Thank you,

 

Robert

don't forget to hit "save attachment" after you upload