Jon Matcho

Hi Gregory, thanks for sharing and best wishes. I bought my Cozy Mark IV hoop and strut from your company several years ago. I corrected the formatting of your address. Next time press [Shift-Enter] to get down the next line without a blank line. Welcome to the forum!

Hi Craig, whether you're up or down that's just how it is in this poker game of life. Congratulations on your sale. I would appreciate it if you would kindly invite the buyer to the Canard Zone and let him know that we'll give him a warm welcome.

I want a Rutan Solitaire!

This link is dead. It's likely that Bill's only visit to the Canard Zone was to post this advert, and I am betting Bill knows the details.

Does anyone have a full set of John Griffiths plans I might be able to buy (or borrow). If not I'll resort to buying them ? I had discussed w/John several years ago and all that is said here is accurate. He only shared samples with me, not the full plans.

I didn't spend fancy money, but the blade is carbide tipped and well-made from a reputable manufacturer (versus the crapshoot that can be with imports). I was thinking to leave it in for basic woodcutting, but need to check its thickness. Thanks!

Another "wow project"! You are building something quite unusual and ambitious, beginning with the tube frame and matched with molds to boot. No small feat at all.

That is absolutely amazing work from someone who has to have done this a time or two. Wow!

Good article, and here's another (see the table at the end): https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/what-aluminum-grade-should-i-use/ I chose the 7075-T6 because I felt it was superior to 6061 (I think 6061 would have done just fine but the stock I had was a touch too thick). I couldn't find anything in the Glasair plans regarding the material type, and their factory support wasn't helpful (I was told to contact the prisoner rehabilitation company they use that produces their parts!) I resorted to making this part myself after attempting to get the factory to make 13/16" longer, and after attempting to find a local machine shop (why did I mention "airplane"?!) Yes, it's 0.01" off center (I didn't actually measure, but I did notice before posting). I was just amazed at the time that I managed to produce the part using less than ideal tools. I did go to bed thinking I might make a better one, but given the application (push/pull without much resistance at all) I am confident it will be fine, off center and all. I didn't know about 2024 until now, but according to the link I shared 2024 has "low corrosion resistance". The number 1 thing I learned from this is that I was not prepared for the amount of metal shavings that would be created AND how I now now that I do not have a machine shop. I am going to buy everything I can from the Cozy Girrrls. At least that's what I say now. ?

I needed to make a replacement part (a pushrod actuator bar) for my friend's Glasair III door. After a fair amount of research I learned that a very popular method of cutting aluminum sheet is to use a table saw equipped with a special purpose blade. After buying the most expensive blade I have ever purchased, and making a few practice cuts, I was able to break through and produce the part. Here's the original stock with the template traced: The yellow anodized part is the one that is being replaced. In addition to the new part, I produced this 14" shard of death, and learned a new level of respect for my table saw and flying objects.

Got it done... just need to add some stiffening so the setup is not as flimsy (was always the case; not the fault of adding the mobile base). You can also see cabinets that are now rolling thanks to a few parts from www.mcmaster.com

I thought I already replied to this (a defect in the forum software or my brain) but I tried this the other day with Acetone (I don't use MEK) and it worked like a charm! I had given up with the traditional wash-the-brush-in-a-tin-can approach because the cost of the acetone wasn't worth the cost of the new brush. I came home from work last night and jumped right into getting this Harbor Freight mobile base stand built and installed under my very heavy 1950s table saw. Wow, after 2 hours of mixing tablesaw and drill press work with my end-of-workweek-it's-Friday rituals I called it quits and spent time with the missus. Kent's words of "don't build infrastructure" were echoing in my head, but I have seen the light of mobile tool stands and I know the joy that will soon be mine. I'll share a pic after completion (hopefully between now and when I need to depart for a family reunion today)...

That's quite the introduction into a project! Nothing you can do but look forward at this point. Once you get the project in hands you can do a more thorough inspection. Moving beyond that you still have a full project to complete even if only to "re-assemble". If you're putting in a new/different engine then you have your hands even more full. Best thing to do IMO is to get all this as close to your bedroom as possible. Maybe your garage/shop then re-transport to the hangar? Consider yourself introduced and thanks for sharing. I moved this post to the Builder Progress section. Looking forward to your updates!

Ha! Thanks for the interesting read. If I ever get brave enough to build a prop I will definitely be referring to your work.

That is perhaps the nicest epoxy (and microballoons) hot box cabinet I have ever seen. Great job and thanks for sharing!

There does appear to be an interface/functional issue or two with quoting and replying, but here are a few tricks: 1) Before quoting and replying, click in the Reply area and press [Enter] a few times to open up some space (if text pre-populates from a prior reply, look for a "clear text" link in the reply area. 2) Scroll up to the post you want to reply, and press the Quote link there. Remove all the stuff in the quote that you don't want to reply to and then construct your reply. 3) If you want to quote-and-reply to a different section within the original post, scroll up and click the Quote link again and repeat steps 2-3 until you're satisfied. Yep, it's definitely different. We'll get used to it while the software is improved as well.

I don’t use MEK, but tried that with Acetone last night. I just opened it up, expecting the paper towel to be stuck to the brush but NO, it worked perfectly! Thanks Kent! ?

That's for sure, and I listen to Kent and others that have actually built and flown these planes, but for me personally I have found myself paralyzed when I can't move in my shop. Sure, I might have too much "stuff" in some cases, but solving these problems is as important as others. That's been working for me too, although I keep it in paper wrap and just re-tape the paper closed after use. Still, most every time I use a roll I think of building a rack. Do you mean to say we're not going to fly these work tables and such?

I haven’t built a glass/rolls cabinet yet, but am planning to use 1/4” plywood as opposed to my prior go-to of 3/4” or even 1/2” plywood. My work tables may someday get an upgrade to wheels (or not), but for now they’re planted firmly in the middle of my shop. In hindsight, I would have built these with a bit less wood. The key is being able to clear a comfortable work area and for that wheeled tools and such do wonders.

Here's a tip from me that is over a decade in the making: Build all tables, storage cabinets, cloth cutting stations, epoxy stations, tools/saws, etc. on wheels for easy positioning around the shop. What a difference it makes!

Which is just under 0.3 qph (quarts per hour). ?

Builder Progress! You're making it happen in spite of the forces against. I am going home right now to do the same. I don't have as much to offer as you at the moment, but am making progress. Thanks for the inspiration!