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Dan Tomlinson

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Everything posted by Dan Tomlinson

  1. I know dust only works on the planes a day each week, which IS a schedule that works for them. It's rare that I don't do "something" on the project daily - some more than others - on a really bad day I'll just count parts! So, any wanna-be slaves who would like an immersion course especially over the summer are certainly welcome here also. Let's just say - we always eat well, and as the inspector said on Monday "Cleared for Completion". My current goal is to have 99% of the glass work done by Labor Day. It could be tight, but it IS doable!
  2. 14' should work The fun part is wrapping with blankets to protect, and leading edge down I believe wherever possible (well padded). If the gear is attached it may be best to remove it (2 large studs). It will be much more stable that way. The wings are just over 12', the spar just under 12', fuselage about the same. Winglets are 4' up, and 9" down if installed. Floor space may be more of an issue (width) to get everything in and stable and strapped. Have a great trip!
  3. The Cozy has a much different landing gear from the original Rutan birds, so the gear isn't really the limiting issue, Nat is - as the designer he declared the max weight. The 10 +3/4" landing gear attach studs are 1/2 inch rolled Cad plated 4130 steel on the MkIV Personally I'd like to "file" a higher regulatory max gross weight so that the government couldn't violate me for exceeding it - using the designer's weight for all practical purposes. The absolute gross weight is otherwise determined by a large number of factors and tests - Wing Loading is one of the big ones, as is engine/prop combination for the climb test. If you cannot pass the climb test (1000 feet in 3 1/2 minutes) at gross, your gross must be reduced! Of course, the overall design of every part would require review and potential strengthening or other changes to increase the gross weight properly. No matter really - after recently checking my (2001) selection notes, there were only 3 homebuilt aircraft that seat 4 and have a possible useful load of 1000 pounds or over! - So, build it and build it light to maximize your payload!
  4. Sorry about late notice - I thought it was posted earlier. CYOO - Oshawa Ontario Canada 30 mi East of Toronto Aviation Trade Show and Fly-In. Canadian Owners and Pilots Association Convention simultaneous, plus RAA Demonstrations and much much more - usually a number of warbirds on static display. http://www.canadianaviationexpo.com for details. Let me know if anyone is attending with a Cozy!
  5. While my preference is certainly for a 13B, does the turbo add complexity for the power that could be replaced by a "Ram Air Turbo" which could certainly provide excess power at speed. Would that be enough boost to deal with enhanced altitude and up high power? It certainly wouldn't help takeoff power much - as the speed isn't there! Ideas? Comments? Use both?
  6. Well, I guess I got lucky! My wife bought me the plans! /dan
  7. Good Luck with the "birthing" tomorrow! I'll certainly be thinking of you guys while applying spar cap tape to my wings! /dan
  8. Well - if you "really" need something to do/some place to go, I have a pair of wings that need building! The cores are done, one has a shear-web, but it needs a new outboard 18 inches after shop tent roof collapse a couple weeks ago - something about 6 inches of Ice Pellets and Freezing Rain. Shop is re-roofed now, and temps are back to "working" levels - so full speed ahead! Of course, I can only do up to before the top skin on each before another inspection! /dan
  9. I'll certainly take the MATCO wheels etc, as I'm ready to install them now. I'm also interested in any/all Brock metal you may have. Nose Strut and parts? If the price is reasonable of course C$ I'm just north of Toronto. I'm reachable at dan@compus.ca Thanks and Regards, /dan
  10. John, As far as I know, there is no restriction for the first flight except that you have sufficient experience. Type is a very broad category! I'd check with TC, but I'm sure it's not that restrictive! For insurance, make sure you're a member of Copa or RAA, both have group insurance programs which do not have exclusions, however the base programs do not cover hull. As discussed many times on the list, self insuring the hull seems to make a lot of sense if you are the primary pilot. COPA Silver Wings (liab etc - mandatory coverage) under $750 / year 3 pax. Considerably cheaper for the first while as "only one seat is licensed". RAA's rates I don't have right now.
  11. The Glass Cloths (7715,7725 Bolt size only on UNI ~120 yds) as well as MGS epoxy I've been buying at Fiberglass Factory Outlet in Mississauga (and the layup supplies). Spar Cap tape seems to be Wicks or ACS only. Cloth for Peel-Ply I've mainly been using a cloth I acquired (10 bolts) of dark blue nylon/polyester. Urethane and PVC foams I've been buying from Wicks, as sourcing these I've found difficult here. The Styro you can order locally (Dow distributers). Hardware is mixed - some from local sources, some from Wicks. I look at prices. Some nuts/bolts sizes etc are less than Wicks/ACS prices here, some sizes are outrageously more! Metal is normally local, but some from Wicks due to price differences. I'm sure that your local RAA chapter in MB or NS will have comments on the local suppliers, and you will certainly find that many of the boat builder shops in NS will have ways of getting many of the items also. They should have suppliers for an "approved" epoxy, even if they are using different resins and hardeners, as well they'll likely have the low density urethane foams (1 and 2 inch), and access to all the supplies. N/A distributer for MGS is Airheart(SP) in Hamilton - either try direct or a local shop to only have about 6 months supply on hand (expiry dates). Aeropoxy dealer is Leavens Aviation (Tor/Edm) who is also good for some hardware in package quantities, but doesn't have many useful items and is not cheap. Some of the adverts in the COPA magazine have been very useful! UPS charges too much in brokerage fees, but they do get things delivered on time, so it does get used. Some of my shipments I pick up in Buffalo - although it costs me a day to go get it, others I ship via my company's Buffalo address and truck - but that is really slow. I haven't done a website - probably should, I own the servers! /dan
  12. The "foam" is 2lb / cu ft Extuded Polystyrene, with a retardant. There is ONLY 1 known manufacturer of the - DOW. There are several extruding plants who make different size blocks. Mine are marketed as "buoyancy foam" for building floating docs. I have a couple of pieces from Wicks, and they are the same weight/ft3, and about the same cell size. I called DOW for the foam since they are local to me here in Canada (and I know a chemist there, who checked a sample of the Wicks foam for consistency) They referred me to the closest "dealer", a hardware store 2 miles away who delivered 8 pieces in a couple of weeks. Only 6 were used for the wings and winglets. These blocks are NOT dressed - they have rounded irregular sides which clean up really nice with a 9' hotwire. Join together roughly with sticks, and add about 4 inches at the front of one end, do the math and geometry for the 5.63 over 28" cross-span at 1 end (3.5" block offset) and FC1, FC2 and it's forward section can be cut from 2 pieces. Both outboard pieces can be cut from another pair of blocks. I didn't do the additional layout, but sure thought about re-working all of the angles (it's NOT a simple translation)to cut each section so the natural block split is the shear web break, but that could be calculated, but at that point I believe all 8 blocks would be required. With my layout using the TE normally, there are "inches" left over, but of course FC1 and FC2 can't help but match as it is only a single cut! And I didn't have to pay for customs and shipping across half the country! /dan
  13. After a wing and winglet cutting party here on the weekend, my shop is surrounded with wing pieces! Must be over 24 pieces right now! I used the 10x20x96 foam which is really great to make matching pieces easily without some of the joins needed for 7x14" foam!
  14. Phillip Johnson is in the Ottawa Area, there is a flying III in the Montreal Area, I'm building about 30 minutes north of Toronto, and there are 4 or 5 other builders and wannabe's that I know of in the Toronto Area. I've seen more than that in Ontario, but I haven't seen them here!
  15. BOTH of the "fora" have benefits, and different uses. Both also have drawbacks, and I'm not sure they are for the same audience. The MZ Maillist is "almost" perfect, as it delivers the info as it becomes available. I can access my mail from anywhere in the world, so access isn't a problem. "perceived reliability" of the maillist seems spotty, however it is more cyclical postings by the users - there's days happen without a message, and then a brief spurt which shows me it is active. However I have my computer separate all COZY posts to a different folder, and I have about 2700 messages logged on my computer that I can search when I don't have net access. This has proven to be an extremely valuable resource, and really should be the prime source for information and low-level discussions. The Forum however has a number of "problems" that have been previously mentioned. 1 - it's a website. I MUST be online to use it, or to type a message, or look something up. 2 - I have to remember to go to it every once in a while - not conducive to continuous use. 3 - doesn't track what messages I read, or allow me to locally archive the messages. A few days ago I looked at the forum, found a lot of "new" messages, and was interrupted with a phone-call. When I returned a couple of hours later, every message was OLD, so I now have to figure out what MESSAGES - if anything - is new to me, not just if I've been to the site. 4 - it DOESN'T e-mail me messages as Nick had indicated, it can e-mail me 1 message that there are messages that I might be interested in. - if I can't get to it, I'll never see another reminder. 5 - email gets delivered despite problems on the net. There have been several outages between me and the forum server where both were up, but the forum was unreachable! It also has a "freer" flow of sideline discussions that are not appropriate for an e-mail forum without threads and filters. Ideally, I could "subscribe" to the forum and it would act like the maillist with archived threads. As it is I feel obligated to visit occasionally, however it chews up a lot of time waiting to look at the "next" message. E-mail isn't perfect, but it's still better than the alternative! Dan Tomlinson #0962 - Building 19 & 20
  16. It IS doable in that space with good organization, and with regular reorganization. I did a big chunk in an 8x14 basement last winter, and I did get reasonable work done (10 Canard and 1/2 of 14 Spar - my head still hurts from the low ceiling. There are benefits to smaller also, less heating/AC requirements, less places to lose things etc IF you have the vertical flexibility, which I don't in the basement - thus larger. I DON'T have the Canard or Spar installed normally - it was installed for the pic, and for mating for chapter 12, otherwise, both are suspended under my 3x12 workbench wrapped in bubble, padded by styrofoam. When I start the wings (Yes Mike, I'm behind you) in a week or so, the fuse will be standing on it's tail in the corner, to have the flexibility. Here in Canada, I have to make minor modifications to the build schedule. I will do 1 side complete, and the 2nd spar cap on both wings, then book an inspection (precover), then do the other skin on each. Have you seen the John Epplin wing hot-wire templates or did you do your own? I'm trying to get on the list if possible. I have the hotwire and controller lined up, and a couple spare inexperienced bodies to help, so hopefully it won't be too bad! Suggestions and hands are always welcome! /dan #0962
  17. It could be done in 12x14, 12x16 to be able to get around the 4x12 table in there, or 2 smaller areas - I'm in 19x19 shop, with a 3x12 table, and a 4x6 bench, and the fuse on mains, with about a 6x12 open space in the center. IF I lose the bench, I can do everything except install wings, but there is insufficient space to move around without ducking under the canard or spar. Here's a pic before the nose and mains. The 4x6 bench is at the pilot's end of the Canard. The canard wasn't even skinned in that shot! /dan
  18. I've already made a couple of minor mods that should help with the installation of liquid heat and A/C. My nose is wider at the front for a couple other reasons also, so there is about 50% more space than plans for heater box, fan etc. John: Are you planning an A/C cut-off for full-power take-off? I know some cars use this under heavy acceleration to give full power to the wheels, then re-engage once the throttle is backed off a bit. Or a manual disengage (checklist item) for take-off and initial climb? /dan
  19. What about on-board oxygen generation? The "medical" oxygen generators (actually concentrators) use electricity, cool air, and internal "catalyst filters" to effectively filter the nitrogen from normal air, giving out continuous medical O2, at about 6PSI, 5 litres/minute. Would this, and econoMizer canula's be considered sufficient and reliable enough for use in a Cozy? Certainly having an unlimited supply without needing to refill at various locations enroute can only be a good thing! /dan
  20. Sorry John - I meant Jerry's build area on that! Actually I like the idea of A/C in the plane, as although I live for the heat, my other half usually gets sick from it - so I am considering it, even with a weight penalty! Can I just do "her" side? A/C also works beautifully for defrosting in winter as it dries the inside air (in cars at least)! My shop is currently warming from outside temp of -7C to 22C (10F to 74F), while 2 months ago it was 36C (95F) outside. Below 0F to -40F I'll need to stop working for a couple weeks, but that doesn't last very long here. I'm also looking at a Mazda install for several reasons - so any advise or recommendations would be appreciated. I'm expecting late-spring/early-summer to start that at this point. Should I buy a "scrap" engine and rebuild, or look at a proven "aero" rebuilder? (I have a qualified car mechanic next door who is very willing to help :-) ) Thanks and Regards, /dan
  21. 20x20 is a "good" size, but can get a little cramped if not layed out properly. 24x30 would be perfect, but considerably harder to heat. John is in the lower lattitudes, so A/c is an important item for him - besides, if he can justify AC in the plane, the shop is mandatory! In your climate, your heating will be different than mine (:30 N of Toronto), and needs to be considered. Calgary needs more heat, Texas needs the heat protection. My shop is also a "tent" - cheap to build & designed as a 3 season shop. Metal stud walls with AirFoil A2V insulation inside and out + 1" Foam covered with a 30x50 Polytarp. Measured at R12, the 2 12,000BTU propane heaters give 24C rise in an hour which here covers all but about 3 weeks of the really cold weather. About 1.5k C$ Fuselage on mains, Canard, Spar complete, TB half done, and wings start in a week or 2. It IS doable with temp structures! /dan
  22. Being in Canada - the rules are somewhat different, and have recently changed again for the better (stop reading now to avoid drooling!) 1: An amateur built aircraft is maintained by the "OWNER" who is responsible for any contractor "AME". New also for certified A/C, the owner is responsible for everything done with, by or to the A/C - and be satisfied that the AME etc has done everything required. 2: An amateur builder may "subcontract" any portion, but must show direct control and supervision of building. (I can pay someone to build for me as long as I supervise) 3: A US built amateur built may be imported and registered after 100 hours of flight time. 4: Any powerplant except rockets. New Category - "owner maintenance" Formerly (certain types only) certified aircraft fully maintained by the owner - yes everything! contracting out allowed of course. Not yet allowed in the US as no similar category there yet. Detailed reference docs on these available. /dan
  23. Should I assume that is FFO on Timberlea? I've found them pretty good, but maybe you are getting a better price? at C$147/1.5g the 7.5gal size saves about C$$50 or so, but wasn't huge! OR do you have a different source! Don't tell me that Wicks and ACS are getting it from them! OR are you getting from Airheart directly? Regards, /dan - 30 min N of Toronto
  24. Yes, I can weld - both gas and electric, but it has been a long time for electric. I can also run metal lathes, shapers and milling machines, but I don't have access to them anymore, and it's not worth buying for a single project! I do have access to gas and mig welders.
  25. I've seen a number of posts and websites where builders have made their own hardware, or have provided CAD files to machine shops to have it made. Are any of those builders here? I'd like to see what the alternatives are to KB. I'm certainly looking at Jack's Noselift and pivot, but most everything else except possibly the nose fork appears to be easy to CAD and Machine. Any sources? Leads? Files available? Basically all of the metal remains to be sourced. Thanks,
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