Kent Ashton

Deregistered in 2012. For having no paperwork, bad paint, old avionics and unknown engine, it is fully priced, I'd say. ? https://www.eaa.org/en/eaa/eaa-news-and-aviation-news/bits-and-pieces-newsletter/03-14-2017-the-quickie-q2 http://www.aviationdb.com/Aviation/Aircraft/1/N12JP.shtm

Yup, Hanson seems to like the pointy noses on his EZs. They do look good because the original EZ nose was rather stubby. With the wider fuselage on a Cozy, I think the usual nose looks fine. There is a good reason to extend the EZ nose to accommodate a fwd battery to balance a bigger engine. It’s not really needed in a Cozy, but make yourself happy. Yes, it did look like a well-built project. Why’d he sell it?

Just looking at the Garragio EZ in the Central States Pics on this site. This fellow has done an impressive job of building a clean airplane. I don't know how much the upswept winglets help but less-is-more regarding skin-friction drag so I speculate they will add a knot or two. I imagine the only thing that could be improved-upon would be the handling of cooling air. Think about it: put your hand out the car window at 80 MPH and feel the drag. Cooling air come into the ducts at 180 mph, it is effectively stopped, then forced through the cylinder fins, then accelerated again to 180 mph. That's got to take a lot of energy. https://garaggio.wordpress.com/2016/08/04/oil-cooler-replacement/

The sad looking EZ above https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/?page=11&tab=comments#comment-62499 went for $6100. Whodathunkit? I guess it can be resurrected but with the potential problems you might find and the small [rusty?] engine, it seems like a win for the seller. You can find the final value using Ebay.com Advanced Search and check "completed listings". Pawn shops use this all the time to check the value of stuff coming to them for pawn. Now you know a sad looking O-235 EZ with a broken canopy can be pawned for a bit less than $6100. Pawn-shops gotta make a profit. ? I have bought a lot of little stuff at pawn shops.

It sounds like you might be safe just to go ahead and commit to buy it, pay Hanson to finish the strakes and truck it to Canada for completion and regulatory paperwork. They are likely very familiar with Rutan designs; good workmanship is self-evident. If you provide detailed pictures of the rest of the build, I think that would work. As you say, there is a way but it has to be THEIR way. ?

It seems like the easiest thing would be to determine who would inspect the project and shoot him your pictures for an informal evaluation. You might get an easy "OK", a "too much done", or a "we gotta personally inspect the project first". It couldn't hurt to ask before you commit to anything.

There are a good many EAA chapters in Canada. I suspect the US headquarters can address most Canadian builder questions, too. Good luck. https://www.eaa.org/en/eaa/eaa-news-and-aviation-news/bits-and-pieces-newsletter/03-14-2017-canadian-eaa-chapters

Here’s a discussion for a project sale within Canada and a general FAQ http://www.eaahighriver.org/sites/default/files/docs/HomeBuilding/MDRAInspection.pdf http://www.md-ra.com/en/faq_en.html i have no experience with Canada but just googling the Canadian regs, it seems likely you would just file an Intent to Build letter and a Bill of Sale from the seller, get an initial inspection to prove you still have 51% yet to build. If the inspector agrees, you’d be good to go. http://www.ultralightnews.com/pilotslounge/cdnbillofsale.htm

Just trolling through my thread and I see that the front-hinge canopy Cozy above I had previously noted back in 2015 listed at $19,500. Now $12K. All things come to he who waits. Maybe it's "to him who waits". And speaking of things coming to those who wait, the Cozy III seller below finally met reality on the Cozy list today: [quote=]In light of the cozy III that was posted for sale for 29k recently I am reducing my project price to 6500.00 most of you are probably familiar with it. If you have interest, questions, want pictures contact me[/quote] This one:

Free markets at work! He has 10 bids up to $3700 so far. Saw this Cozy III, N80CZ on the Cozy list today (PDF BELOW). 1992 vintage and has had two other owners. Was listed at $39K by the second owner. Now $29K. Has an O-290. I had an O-320 Cozy III. I would say an O-290 is about the minimum engine for the C-III, it looks fairly nice. Wheel pants? https://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/NNum_Results.aspx?NNumbertxt=80CZ https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/cozy_builders/vRzVgjhlMdg Cozy For Sale.pdf

This sad EZ on Ebay today. Item 173575299545 No N-number I could see. Now that it's virtually worthless, try to sell it. ?

More Picassos-on-the-curb: this nice Cozy project on B-stormers at a great price with wings, canard, etc. . I am curious why a builder gets so far along and dumps it. Seller Hanson does a lot of canard rebuilds but I doubt he built this. Musta bought it for peanuts or traded for one of his flying rebuilds. [quote=]COZY4 UNIQUE PROJECT • $12,000 • FOR SALE TO GOOD HOME • Great starter fast build unique canopy system. Wings and canard built by Dennis Oltman. Sold for less than the price of the wings and canard. I can finish the plane as an option. Control system, closeout fuel stakes and add some wheel pants. And it would be ready for avionics and engine. Engine mount it included. An 0360 is available also. • Contact David J. Hanson located Warren , OH USA • Telephone: 724-614-9046 • Posted October 5, 2018 [/quote] Also this Long-ez. There is something a little funky with the winglet. It looks like he cut-out a bad antenna but that can be patched pretty quickly. The rest looks good. More pics in the ad [quote=]LONG EZ PROJECT • $2,500 • LAST CHANCE • $2500 or BEST OFFER: WHEN THIS AD EXPIRES, IT WILL BE GONE FOREVER. Get a head start on a complete Long EZ project. It's a blank canvas where you can do your own mods and still be ahead. You can inspect the glass work. NOTE: that you will have to redo the winglets as I cut both off to put a blended winglet but never completed, also nose gear already sold.. I'm including Eureka CNC winglets with the sale so you can put it back. You will need to pick it up and load it from KCNO. Additional pictures available. • Contact Robert A., Owner - located Huntington Beach, CA USA • Telephone: 4256869672 • Posted October 1, 2018[/quote] Also saw an EZ cowl and exhausts but not priced to sell quickly.

I don't have any exact numbers. Three wipes for me will fill or almost fill a 1/8" pit. If they are large pits they don't exhibit the same surface-tension pull-away as pinholes--they are just holes to be filled. Sometimes I go around putting dots of wet micro on them that I sand down later. Or I might put a dot of wet primer-surfacer on them when they show up during priming (argh!) and sand them down later. Here are some pics you might find interesting Pics 1,2: after several wipes. The result is not as flat as you might think although I squeegeed pretty thoroughly. I believe it's due to surface tension causing the epoxy to clump or maybe I just needed more squeegee. Pics 3,4: I marked off low places and pits after the first application of micro and sanding. I would probably not try to patch those and just lay down a new layer of filler but the red marks will be helpful because they will show through when sanding and tell me I am filling the low spot and not leaving the filler too thick. Patch-filling is problematic because the batch hardness changes and it's hard to get a patch flattened to match the surface around it without sanding the surrounding area low. Pic 5: I find it useful to pre-fill low places and high places before doing the whole wingl. It is hard to fill a low spot like a spar-cap trough while trying to get an even layer of filler over the entire wing. Same for high spots. Best to pre-fill them, sand them flat, then do the whole wing.

Seen on a FB page today. KTEL is http://www.airnav.com/airport/KTEL

Good. I see that Canardspeed.com has disappeared anyway. The work looks good. Interested in see more.

To close the loop on this, my friend said he sprayed a thin coat of primer on his "pinholes" and sanded to 500 grit and doesn't see them anymore, so maybe it was just the texture of his primer and 2000 grit sanding giving that effect. Normally you can spray gallons of paint over a pinhole and it will just laugh at you. However, with sandable primer I have occasionally swiped the wet primer with an old credit card when a swarm of pinholes appeared. It filled them and the primer could be sanded flat but it was more work. Best to kill them before priming.

My friend was showing me his pinholes but now that you mention it, maybe they are not pinholes. Below is what I usually see as pinholes (pic). They are larger and paint does not want to bridge them. My friend's look tiny; I don't think I've seen that. Maybe my friend just has some texture problem with the primer and just needs to sand more. I dunno.

Geez Andrew, some guys would love to have such a nice canopy joint.

Some words on filling: I have painted three canards and several cars and bikes and made about all the mistakes you can make so perhaps I've learned some things. My buddy who is repairing and painting his Cozy came up with this problem (pic). He says "I have sanded the primer to #2000 grit and I see pinholes [again]. What to do?" He has two problems: He did not kill the pinholes before priming and he is sanding the surface too smooth for further paint to get a bite. For me, there is a logical order to painting a canard, that if followed will result in fewer mistakes. Here is mine: 1. First, do your filling and sanding to get the surface perfect, and sanded down to about a 320 grit. Along the way, use a stiff aluminum bar marked up with a big Sharpie. Rub the bar perpendicular to the chord. The bar will leave oxide and Sharpie smudges on the high spots. Sand them down a little and repeat until the smudges are everywhere evenly. On curved surfaces like the nose, I use stiff, flexible things like welding electrodes or old bandsaw blades held over the surface to find high and low areas. View the surfaces from many angles with lights at different angles. The mistake here is usually thinking you are ready for the next step but you are not. Primer/surfacers will not fill pits and deep sanding scratches. Undetected defects are usually present. We have to fix those here before priming. To find them, I spray the whole surface will a thin mist of black sandable rattle-can primer and sand it all off. That will usually show many undetected defects. Fix all of them except pinholes. Sometimes a new layer of filler over the whole surface is the easiest path. Sand to about 320 grit. Repeat as necessary. It is a mistake to sand smoother than 320 grit. Now your surface is truly flat and smooth but there will be pinholes. 2. Fill the pinholes with the "Cory Bird epoxy wipes method"--three to five wipes with straight epoxy allowing it to tack up between wipes.* The wipes will fill the pinholes but they will leave hard ridges and runs that will need sanding flat. IMO, the reason you don't want to sand finer than 320 grit prior to the wipes is that straight epoxy wants to clump-up due to surface tension and a very slick surface will help it clump. Also, it's hard to leave any epoxy when wiping a very slick surface so you can't build up any thickness. My objective with the wipes is to get enough thickness of straight epoxy that I can wet sand it flat without going through it. Sanding through the hard wipes may expose more pinholes. Sand the hard wipes down to 320-400 grit. Now my surface is smooth, has a thin layer of epoxy and pinholes are filled. 3. Epoxy is a pretty good primer for a topcoat if it has the correct bite but I usually spray a sandable primer/surfacer and wet sand that to about 400 grit. Now I'm ready for a topcoat. *NOTE: Cory, who built a championship airplane, said a 36 grit finish was just fine in preparation for the epoxy wipes http://www.ez.org/t/cp77-p4 He used the wipes to fill big sanding scratches. I find it better to work those out to a finer surface. Cory suggests a 3-4' sanding spline. I usually get good results with an 18-20" board but I have not won any Oshkosh awards. ?

Are you thinking of building a Cozy out of Kevlar?

This Varieze today. Seller Hanson has refurbed a lot of canards and does some nice work. I wonder if the $20K includes the new paint? VARI EZ PROJECT ALL MODS DONE • $20,000 • FOR SALE TO GOOD HOME • 0235 Vari ez. 340 hrs new cylinders. Mods include wheel pants , gear leg fairings, long nose , extended front hatch, strake extensions for more cockpit room, hidden oil door, custom cowls, adjustable brakes in the nose. Elec nose lift and speed brake. new glass panel Ifly 740, AVMAP, TRIO auto pilot. plane needs final sand and electrical and avionics connections. wireing is in the plane. I will finish the plane, choose your paint and interior colors. • Contact David J. Hanson located Warren , OH USA • Telephone: 724-614-9046 • Posted September 20, 2018

Long-ez on B-stormers today. N24PN, a 1984 Norman Messinger build. http://www.aviationdb.com/Aviation/Aircraft/2/N24PN.shtm Maybe priced a little high for the engine, GU canard, football wheel pants and basic avionics but looks nice. Some fancy paint additions would add 20 knots and $1000, I'm guessing. ? LONG EZ • $29,000 • LOOK AT THIS • Well built Long EZ for sale. First flight 1984. Proven 800 hours TTSN, Engine Lycoing O-235 L2C 360SMOH and 2 hours Since Top Overhaul. Condition Inspection due in November. Currently flying. Large rudders. B&T propeller. Odyssey 680 Battery. Electric nose lift. 500x5 tires. A plans built plane ready for your weekend projects to make it faster and even more efficient! 895 pounds empty. I am selling to finance another project. Based near Kansas City, KLWC. 913.575.2121 • Contact Nathan Peck, Owner - located Leavenworth , KS USA • Telephone: 9135752121 • Posted September 18, 2018

The seller posted some pics of this installation. I am guessing there is some way to blow a hole in the turtleback and the red tube is a mount for the straps. Any other comments, Marc? Se3 that bad interior paint? The builder probably did not use a primer on the fiberglass or a clearcoat over the top coat. I made the same mistake omitting the clearcoat. Use a matte clearcoat.

Been doing this thread so long that airplanes are coming up for the second time. This one on Facebook today N1361S, a 1997 build by Larry Sligar (plans #74) which I first talked about here http://forum.canardaviation.com/showpost.php?p=71237&postcount=70 It was nicely built but a hangar queen for a good many years. A couple of guys bought it from the widow and the engine threw a rod after they flew it a while--lesson there about engines that sit. I suppose all that is in the past now but it'd be interesting to inspect the engine logs. Ballistic parachute!

Seen on FB. Google the poster to get more info. It's in Wisconsin. No price yet.