Kent Ashton

Been corresponding with a gent who bought a Long-ez kit through David Orr ( David@canardfinders.net ) fuselage, canopy, wings, center spar, canard, hardware all for $3000. It was probably $10K-12K in materials alone and really nice workmanship.

This on Barnstormers today. No pics.: LONG EZE UNFINISHED PROJECT • FOR SALE BY BUILDER • Structural sections built by an A&P. No engine/instruments. text to phone only. KFXE • Contact gary hall - NONE , Owner - located N. Lauderdale, FL United States • Telephone: 954-979-9494 • 9494 • 979 • Posted May 12, 2020

I made a noselift similar to the EZNOSELIFT model but it is very fiddly to make and takes a lathe, mill and tig welder to construct. The main problem is getting the dimensions correct so everything fits and it extends an appropriate amount. Below is a picture of my innards (pic 1) you can compare to the retail model (pic 2) but I don't have drawing good enough to make one. It uses the Thomson PPA actuator and some of the parts inside the Thomson extension tube but there a several new parts that need to be made, the stock tubes are discarded and lighter 4130 tubes used. The end of the Thomson ball-shaft is hardened steel. It had to be cutoff, threaded for a bolt and pinned. No idea if that is how EZNOSELIFT does it. I have attached a text file describing how it comes apart. I only made one for the Cozy because my back was starting to protest that first 12" inches of lift. However, most of the time I put the Cozy on a rolling dolly about 18-20" high and did not have to dead-lift it very often. I did not use one on the Long-ez--never found it necessary. Yup, the retail model is a little expensive but if I had to make you one, I would be asking in the $5000 range. 🙂 Noselift Disassembly

Cross-posting this Varieze for sale thread from a few days ago to give the seller a little more vis. Check the thread if you are interested.

Steve, this fellow Ion from the Cozy list contacted me. Asked me to cross post this here. His email address below > On May 11, 2020, at 10:41 AM, Ion Huss / Lisa Doughty <lisnion@yahoo.com> wrote:> > Tell him if he's ever playing through Boulder I'll give him the deluxe tour, once the pandemic is over of course.> > Ion 0-320 Long EZ 1615 hrs

Here's one for you: Facebook chap says today he wants to sell "but not officially", then he will send info when interested party is "ready". Jeesh. What a way to sell an airplane! I will post something when it's "official" or you can beg the seller for info.

David's address is David@canardfinder.net He has put it out before so I don't think it's any secret.

“Keyboard Tough Guy”, wow, that really sings to me. Dibbs on that one. Alternatively, “Your Highness” sounds pretty good. I will answer to “a**hole” too. Momma always called me that.

I guess you missed my smiley face or don’t appreciate that it is an attempt to say something in a joking way. No matter. Yes, i was a little snarky but Mr NolaDoogie, when no-name post-ers show up asking to be fed and don’t show the slightest attempt to Google for the information they want, or use the search resources of this massive website, that’s my reaction. You do not appreciate, either, that i made the effort to find the answer you wanted and post it for you. I won’t make that mistake again. Have a nice life.

Just reading where a Cozy builder on FB mentioned buying PPG Deltron single stage for $506/gallon. I will just throw this out: Consider using Nason (Axalta) 2K Fulthane at $186/gallon. Nason is Axalta’s non-advertised brand—Nason doesn’t pay for NASCAR sponsorships and the colors are not as extensive. It is likely a touch down in quality from Imron but the limiting factor for me is not the paint quality but the skill of the painter. I have painted three airplanes and several cars with the Frost White and other colors. I always have some sort of painter-induced problem—a run or sag—but a sag in $506 paint would make me cry like a baby. https://www.johnsonautobodysupply.com/Axalta-Nason-Fulthane-Frost-White-400-53-Gallon.html The Nason is good paint. Unless you are an experienced painter in a proper booth, you will have runs, sags, orange peel, or bugs. Below, a recent EZ paint job. I have nothing against base/clear paints; I just got started with single-stage and generally use that. I generally paint outdoors in the Fall on a calm morning. I find dust is not much of a problem (unless you are shooting for show-quality); I am going to buff-out the finish anyway. I will stand by with tweezers for the occasional bug until the paint hardens up (30 mins or so). When I have not painted for a while, I get rusty. If you are not experienced, spray a car first to learn how. Even though this was my 3rd airplane paint-job and I have painted several cars, on this EZ, I had an incident where I sprayed too heavily and got a horrendous sag the full length of the leading edge. I ended up wiping-off a bunch of wet paint with a lacquer thinner-soaked rag and respraying. That's a good reason to use $186 paint! Usually it is a smaller problem.

I will cross-post your question on the Canard-Aviators io.group which reaches a lot of owners. Another way to find people is call the president of local EAA chapters (See www.eaa.org) or do a county search in the FAA registry for Long-ez or Cozy owners. https://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/StateCounty_Inquiry.aspx I saw none in Campbell County. I imagine you'd find some in Rapid City.

Cozy iv project in Houston. No pics, no price, no contact info. Beg for it 😞 http://forum.canardaviation.com/showpost.php?p=79455&postcount=1

Ya know, they say the handling with those canard-tip wheels is a little squirrely. A lot of folks build them or mod them for fuselage-mounted landing gear.

Well, there is a website called Google, see, and you go to Google.com and type in . . . . oh nevermind. Here's where you sign up. 🙂 I don't think Marc is too picky about being an actual Cozy builder but if he doesn't sign you up, get on the Canard Aviators group. They are often the same canard people. http://www.cozybuilders.org/mail_list/ https://canardzone.groups.io/g/canard-aviators

Yup, lots of talk on the Cozybuilders(?) list recently about the Colan tape. Spruce is handling it now in lieu of their own tape. There was confusion about how to remove the crossthread but it is removable if you study it. FWIW, i think the Cozy builders (google group) are doing more builder talk than the Canard Aviators io.group.

Just an idea: This is something like how EZ/Cozy strake-tanks are made. I would make a 5-side container out of fuel resistant urethane or other foam with an open top using BID inside and outside--2 or more layers. For a wheel-well shape, the urethane can be scored and bent as EZ strake leading edges are bent. The container could be squeegeed inside with epoxy or ProSeal a standard tank sealant, and checked for leakage. I'd make a top with a rather large access hole and cover; flox that to the leak-free container with ample wet flox (flocked cotton + epoxy). You could then reach inside to finish the joint between top to bottom or fix any leaks. Those materials are available at Aircraft Spruce or Wicks Aircraft. Peel ply is un-dyed polyester fabric. It comes in sheets and tapes or you can buy a white non-stretchy weave polyester at a fabric store. I think if you did some research on boat websites, you would get some good ideas. If you drew a picture it might help to see what you want to build.

Some more links: might be duplicates Kevin Walsh https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPQm_4hDI1Bf0XaIij_7SEQTInOYgbLvxt5I46JkqsY0ZnhJS_h3FBfUuN2M8P2kw?key=SVRKWVY0cWQzZGlZQ20tTFBZTDdseTlGNHIyOWlB Scott Fish https://cozyfish.weebly.com/ Ary Glantz http://www.aryjglantz.com/p/blog-page.html https://cozy1537.blogspot.com/search/label/Chapter 01 Description and Introduction JP Alagnoux https://www.flickr.com/photos/cozyjpa/page1 Nate Mullins http://www.mykitlog.com/users/index.php?user=jenatepilot&project=2121 http://www.berkut13.com/berkut.htm Phil Camarda http://longezpilot.com/N6PC page5.htm Charles & Jeff http://cozy.caf.org/epoxy-hot-box/index.shtml Kissick https://cozyserenity.weebly.com/ Note: Dead links can sometimes be found on the Wayback Machine https://archive.org/

I have seen pics and discussions in the past few weeks of AP servos and how to mount them at some of the sites here: Cozybuilders google group https://canardzone.groups.io https://www.facebook.com/groups/25741482604/ https://www.facebook.com/groups/CozyMkIV There are also pics at older sites like www.canardcommunity.com and www.canardaviation.com that can be found with their search engines. Images searches in Google or Bing will also bring up pics, for example "Cozy autopilot servo" There are a dozen or so builder sites and blog in the net that deal with Cozy & EZ builds Those give you plenty of ideas. If not, try this https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/32503-a-heapin-helpin-of-builder-links/?tab=comments#comment-61295

Maybe you can find a polyethlene water or fuel tank for boats or RVs; perhaps gang them together to get the volume you need. This one below is pretty close to your dimensions. Or Google "DIY boat water tank" Lots of interesting things there. https://www.ntotank.com/52gallon-norwesco-white-utility-tank-x6230877

FINISHING: I have posted these pics before but I want them all in one post so here goes: Pics 1,2 shows how I have lightly sanded the bare weave surface. A light sanding with 36 grit in two directions is all that is necessary. Even that may not be necessary--epoxy sticks!--but it gives me a warm fuzzy to sand a bit. Then it helps to prefill low and high areas on the wing and sand those pretty flat. These areas are over the spar caps, the wing bolt reinforcement UNI, the trailing edge, and the like. A prefill will make the Big Fill flatter. Notice that I have also used micro on the leading edge of the wing and will round that off. It is more bug-resistant than West 410 Microlight filler. Then I do the Big Fill using West epoxy & slow hardener and 410 Microlight that I buy in a 4LB box (about $275). Mix to a peanut-butter consistency. Do not be stingy with this first fill--you want to get plenty of filler applied to make sure you fill all the big waves and low areas and can sand them flat without hitting the weave. Any time you hit the weave, stop sanding. You will sand a lot of the Big Fill off but that's what is needed. I use a 6" rubber squeegee to spread it on fast, then transition to a 6" or 12" metal drywall knife that I heat with a few passes of a propane torch. The heated drywall knife lets me even-out the filler with fewer ridges as the filler is beginning to get hard. Try to get the filler pretty smooth; it makes sanding easier. I wouldn't mix the filler as thick as you can, it will be hard to spread and hard to make even. Pics 3.4 - Sand the Big Fill with 36 grit. Inevitably, there are low places, pits and scratches left. I mark low areas and pits with a Sharpie and _refill_the_entire_wing_again, this time with filler that is a little less stiff; it smooths better, does not leave as many pinholes and will make a consistent hardness for further sanding. Cover the entire wing with filler and especially over the marked (low) areas. It is a mistake to try to just spot fill. The filler mixture will be harder or softer in spots and the sanding board will teeter-totter over the high filler and gouge low places. Just refill the whole wing. Sand (36 grit) until you just begin to see the marks under the second layer of filler, then I might follow up with 180 grit to remove the 36 grit scratches. The wing is looking pretty even now but there will usually be a few spots that require spot filling or patch filling. If there are a substantial number of places, then it's better to mark them as before and refill the entire wing. Now the wing is looking flat and about a 180 grit finish. Pic 5 - Guidecoat: At this point I spray a mist-coat of cheap black rattle-can primer and sand it all off to reveal scratches, pits and defects that need work. In the photo, I have used more black primer than I needed but it sands off pretty easily. If there are any big pits, I might put a dot of runny micro over them. The Aluminum Bar Rub - A wing can look flat but it's not. A various times in the process I use a scrap piece of 18" X 1.25" X .5" stiff aluminum bar which I mark up heavily with a Sharpie and rub over the surface as if I was sanding. The bar will leave oxide and sharpie smudges on the subtle waves and high spots the will need a little further sanding. Sand those areas gingerly and rub again. Eventually the smudges will blend together which means the wing is getting really flat. pics 6,7 - Epoxy wipes ("Cory Bird Method"). Now you have a nice flat wing with no big pits or scratches but plenty of pinholes. Cory suggested 5 wipes of straight epoxy. Squeegee-off the excess firmly and let it tack-up between applications. However three wipes usually does it for me. It will fill pinholes and 180 grit scratches. Do not expect it to fill 36 grit scratches. I find the straight epoxy will clump-up from surface tension (pics 5, 6). Maybe there is a way to avoid that but I don't know one. Wet-sand the cured surface with 240-360 grit and it will leave a pretty good, flat epoxy surface for an epoxy primer-surfacer or primer. Over-sanding will remove the wipes and expose pinholes. I have filled and painted 3 airplanes. For wing sanding, I don't use anything more than scraps of 2X4 with sandpaper stapled to the ends you can see in pic 6.

Barnstormers today N61TG Pretty low airframe hours for a 2003 build. https://registry.faa.gov/aircraftinquiry/NNum_Results.aspx?NNumbertxt=N61TG 180HP LONG EZ • $39,995 • FOR SALE • LONG EZ 2004 180HP. AF 154hrs. Engine 1650 SMOH. 600 STOH.Leather interior. Silver Bullet Prop. Basic VFR Panel.Beautiful safe flying airplane. 180kts on 8.5 GPH.BEST PLANE I HAVE EVER OWNED!! Family needs a four seater. • Contact Thomas Giddings , Owner - located Ft Myers, FL United States • Telephone: 727-858-1772 • Posted May 2, 2020

Almost 29 years ago (wow!) , there was a fellow who built canards for hire that were junk See "Beware" here http://www.cozybuilders.org/newsletters/news_35.html#beware That was an unusual case. So I was puzzled by a controversy this week involving a well-known parts seller. It was never fully explained in the back-and-forth but it appears to me the seller delivered some substandard parts and got testy when the buyer complained. The threads on the NG pivot (pic 1) are clearly substandard and the NG fork (pic 2) looks as rough as heck. That's a highly stressed part. It ought to look very smooth--polished even. Sharp edges should be rounded. FWIW.

The paint looks dull but I would think it could be sold as a complete airplane. Selling parts will only bring 1/2 the value. Take a look at my thread below and see what people have asked for them. Since you can sell it with good title, the only obstacle I can think of to getting it flying (other than safety) is proving to the satisfaction of the FAA or DAR that it was built by amateurs. Personally as a buyer I would have no problem swearing on the A.C. application that a Long-EZ was built by amateurs and if the circumstances are explained to the FAA/DAR I suspect they would accept that without demanding builder's logs or photos. It depends on the inspector. As an IA you probably know who'd work with you. https://www.canardzone.com/forums/topic/21972-sales-ive-seen/page/24/#comments

This is a real airport. :-). http://www.airnav.com/airport/KPJC Dennis, you will get a lot of views with an ad on Barnstormers.com. They are inexpensive. Put it in the Experimental section. It’d be nice to have those logs but sometimes they are not absolutely necessary. A good bill of sale or proof of ownership would be the biggie, i imagine. https://registry.faa.gov/AircraftInquiry/NNum_Results.aspx?NNumbertxt=N125EZ

Pic grabbed from a FB page. Builder says his engine is a UL520. I could only find a UL390 (pic 2). It is really a blocky-looking cowl. The Lycomings can use an 8" prop extension; I don't know if the UL engines will tolerate that. It appears he could have flowed the cowl into the prop a little better and avoided the rather sharp corners. He might have eliminated a lot of the cowl volume below the cylinders. The intake tubes are on top. No need for a lot of space under the cylinders. If he could widen and flatten that oil pan, or exit the exhausts with a simple 90 deg turn, I think it would reduce the cowl volume by several cubic feet. I predict those small cooling exit holes will be totally insufficient