Jerry Schneider

Yep. Yep. Yep.

Jerry... I don't know what the magic formula is to coax posts out of you, but I read your site all the time.

I guess I'm just not the "Forum" type of guy. When I spend time chatting on forums, I start feeling guilty about NOT spending that time building (or learning how to build). When I have a question (or feel competent to answer one), I generally post/reply. For the most part though, I don't enjoy the "chatter" I seem to see on most forums. With so many irons in the fire, I have to draw the "Spend Time " line somewhere, so I guess that's where I draw it. A lot of people seem to like this venue. That's cool too. But, I'm just partial to the mail list method.

What brought me out on this thread was Dust's derogatory statement re:this forum, cloaked in the guise of benevolence for "Newbies" (a term I dislike). I found his statement self-serving and insulting.

Glad you like the website.

Hey Dusty!

You forgot something. You know, the tag at the end of your post that's supposed to say:" I'm Dust, and I approve of the preceding political advertisement."

Sheesh! I guess you think most "newbies" are pretty stupid.

A very good chance.

Just get the Fien Detail Sander with some HSS blades, and you'll never look back!

Is there a difference between Aero and Cozy plans in this area. If there is, I'd bet it's a minor one/two.

While sitting around Jeff's display at SNF one year, we were ruminating as to other names. One that came up was "AeroBastard" (Pronounce the Bastard like Canard. )

Seriously though, all anybody can do is ASK you to call it somthing else. Call it whatever you want.

The balancing rod may not be the appropriate distance from the hinge point. Just a little would make a big difference. I'll check that out.

I had the same problem. Another place to measure the proper placement of the balance rod is to measure from the leading edge of the rod to the trailing edge of the aileron. Mine was off significantly and re-locating it solved all of my balancing problems.

At this point I am willing to buy the Fein if I can find out how well it will do many layers of cured glass from Jerry or JD.

 

Happy Father's Day!

Jon,

Let me put it this way: I was able to cut through the 50 (or 100 is it?) layers of glass when I was making my landing gear tabs. Make sure when you get the Fein that you get the HSS blade. Its circular in shape with teeny tiny teeth all the way around it. You'll never regret it. (Besides, I just used it to install my over the stove microwave. It sure comes in handy. )

Get the Fein.

Straight, Fast, Minimal dust, and my personal favorite - safe.

Both the the Rotozip and the Dremel will kick up tons-o-pleasant teeny tiny particles of glass to fill your skin pores. Also, the edges will look kind of raggety. Even more so on thicker layups.

No.... I don't own stock in Fein. But, I may name my next illegitimate child after them.

Unfortunately I think I need to decide between the Fein and this, as I have a Dremel already

Definitely get the Fein first.

Just an update:

After 4 years of relentless grinding fiberglass, ( a feat which would make mere Dremels quake), I finally burned out the main bearing.

I called the parts distrubutor, ordered the bearing ($6.95), and 2 business days later I got the bearing AND the shaft w/lockwashers the bearing was mounted on. I put it back together, and it's as smooth as silk.

(Another testimonial for German engineering. )

Jon,

Jeff & Greg Russell have great products. If your wallet allows, you can save 3-4 years off your build time... safely. Or, buy what little you can afford, (as I did) and save proportionally. I for one, hope they don't leave the parts business.

The videos will be a great asset to your build/enjoyment.

I live in Florida. It's a state where 9 months out of the year you need a snorkle to walk the dog. I've never had a piece of firewall board warp on me. I have some still in my workshop unglassed. I'll check it tonight for warpage.

My suggestion: If you can't get it to cure reasonably straight, send it back for replacement. You paid top dollar for that stuff, and it's not your fault if they let it get wet.

Also, if you keep it, glass it on the convex side. That way, you can weight it for flat cure. Now that I think of it, I may have had to do that very thing. But, my my warpage was minimal, if at all.

But of course, I could be wrong.

I would give Wicks a call.

Betchya they replace it.

You can trim all you want during the green stage... just make sure you pull the peelply after full cure. It's easy to forget. (Ask me how I know )

Then again, if you get the Fein detail Sander w/HSS blade, you'll never have to worry about "green stage" again.

am thinking that "now's the time" to rip the sheetrock down, run new electric, insulate, and finish proper before putting up benches, shelves, and cabinets.

NOW is the time to be building your plane.

When it starts getting cold is the time for insulation. Lotsa people get wrapped-up in "pre-build". Get wrapped-up in BUILD. You'll stop for the ancillary crap when you need to.

Cabinets? HA! Opening the door of a cabinet is just one more thing to do in order to find the stuff you need. Simplify! Simplify! Hell... I'm in a tent! But I got wings!

Take the parts out back.

Easier.

Is the Aerocanard available in plans?

Yep. Yep. Yep. (The relpy had to be 10 characters. Program function.)

If you're set on making the back seat wider, IMHO, you sould get a set of Aerocanard plans. They will give you the exact drawings for the firewall, landing gear bulkheads, turtleback, and aft end of fuelage. (You get more butt room in the back of an Aero Canard as well as shoulder room.)

For all of the thought-work envolved, it would be money well spent to keep from having to re-engineer things.

My 2c

John,

Could you expand on that a bit?

I'm not seeing how removing the inside foam can get you the extra space.

Congrats!

Thanks for the video!

Minor goose-bumps greatfully accepted.

I sure hope my first flight goes as smooth as yours did.

Originally posted by Joe Patterson

I know everyone likes the pump, it just sounds, to me anyway, like BETTER SCIENCE to use measurements.

Not EVERYONE.

I use an Ohaus electronic scale (Ohaus...the name drug dealers trust.), for many reasons.

I don't like having to check calibration, leaking reservoirs, replacing O-rings, having to pre-blend hardeners.

I like the feeling of accuracy and I get with a scale (real or imagined).

I'd rather fight than switch!

Just another opinion....

1) No. There are no problems with making the parts larger, then cutting to size.

2) If you have the Fein, you really don't need the RotoZip. About the only thing I use the Roto for now is cutting metal with the cut-off wheel. The bits dull very quickly on glass.

The Fein with the HSS round blade works best on cutting cured glass. And, most importantly, is MUCH more safe. Since I started using the Fein, the Roto scars have nearly disappeared.

For those types of operations, I use a dremel with a RotoZip type bit, set it to a particular depth. Then, using a straight edge across the end of the wing to maintain the depth, I cut numerous lines, much like a router. Then remove the rest of the foam between the lines to the depth of the cuts.

HTH

<On another tack, does anybody have a link to where on the Aircraft Spruce site the Cozy plans are, or do you have to ring? How much are they selling the plans for?>

Go to : aircraftspruce.com

Click: search

Type: cozy

Hit: Enter

Top of the list, $500.

I'm building in my back yard..... in a tent.

(Yes, John. I've accepted it. )