Jerry Schneider

Long-EZ luminary Jim Price suggested I buy the ECi oil filter adapter for my Lycoming O235. I did and am very pleased with it. Let me know if you need me to research the part number and price (under $200).

I bought the kit from AERO on the referral from a trusted source. I had heard about the adapter at that price from a number of people. But I hadn't considered the price difference in the make-up of the kit. (Been spending a lot of money lately. ) It has all of the gaskets, hardware and a drain valve. Nice.

 

I finally got around to doing the math of adding the various parts fo the kit and a warning light came on. I figured I paid @$90 more than I should've.

 

Aircraft Specialty Services listed it for $185, so I called them. They didn't have any in stock, and agreed to call the manufacturer to verify the price.

 

As I suspected, it was an old price. Their new price for the adapter alone: @$272 And the price of the Kit: @$310. So maybe I didn't get ripped off.

 

It's still less expensive than B&C's ($395), which doesn't appear to have the threaded port for the filter drain or the drain.

 

Here are the part #'s for anybody who wants to do more searching. If you REALLY find it in stock for the cheap, post your results for everyone..

 

Adapter: AEL22772-1

Adapter Kit: AEL105-1

I just bought the adapter from A.E.R.O..

 

1-800-362-304

 

http://www.aeroinstock.com/

 

Part # AEL105-1. 90 Degree Adapter Kit.

(It's 45 deg. from the vert plane, 90 deg from the horizontal.)

 

Comes with everything you need, (except vernatherm).

 

$318.85 +shipping.

I'm in the same boat. Although I'm thinking of buying a hangar in St. Petersburg (PIE).

 

Anybody interested sharing a hangar there?

I had a chance to sit in Jerry's project (you can almost call it a plane now) with the extended strakes (AKA "Cozy Girrrl strakes").

ALMOST A PLANE!!! Pffft! Just minor things to install.... like the engine.

 

(I shall work you like the proverbial step-child tomorrow. )

Do not ever use only slow hardener. I understand this yields a more brittle cured epoxy

The way I read the specs, if you're operating your plane in the g-force realm where the difference in flexibility of the cured epoxy is a structural factor, you've probably already exceeded the operating limits of the human body.

IMO, the slow hardener epoxy is plenty flexible enough for our purposes. (Especially considering the designer gave his blessing to 335 without any caveats which I'm aware of.)

 

Just my opinion......

Todd was at SNF yesterday.

Not sure of his schedule.

Group,

 

Just got home from the Nth annual SNF Cozy/Canard BBQ.

 

Debbi, (Epoxy Lady), counted 32 people in attendance.

The burgers, brats, and beverages were great! ( If I do say so myself. )

But the company was the best! A number of "old" favorites were there, as well as a few new faces just beginning to build.

I think a good time was had by all.

 

Thanks to Keith Lukat for procuring the Composite Tent, (we had about 2 minutes of very light rain), finding a place to store the perishables out of the sun, as well as his culinary expertise on the grill. (No. Really Keith, we LIKE them BLACK like that. ) Also, to everyone else who chipped with help during setup and cleanup.

 

Donations more than made up for my expenses, so there will be a donation to the festivities at SNF next year. Thanks for everyone's generosity.

 

I only wish more could have attended.

Hear Ye, Hear Ye!

 

Lo, these past 7 years I’ve benefited from the knowledge, experience, and camaraderie of this august group. I felt it a true shame to not have a place where we can get together to share some time and “chew the fat”.

 

Due to popular demand, I’ve decided to provide the victuals/beverages for the Nth Annual Sun-N-Fun Cozy/Canard BBQ!

 

Here’s my plan:

 

It will be at the Composite Tent at about 5:30P, Sat., 4/21/07. (Yes, it’s in a tent this year… not the hangar.) Courtesy of Keith Lukat.

 

Ed Richards and Keith Lukat have both graciously offered to “back me” on this if I don't break even. If there’s a surplus, it will go to the person who coordinates this event next year. (If it doesn't happen next year: Happy Birthday, Jerry! )

 

I’ll truck my 2 grills from St. Petersburg to Lakeland to provide the heat.

I’ll get a few bucks, (well, more than a few.) worth of burgers, hot dogs, sodas, and beer. (Diet too.!)

I’ll put a big jar out for donations.

 

The food quality will be safe, if not tasty.

But, I guarantee the company will be First Rate! (And that's what it's all about, isn't it?)

 

Debbi (Epoxy Lady) & I will look forward to seeing you!

Yours is the only AeroCanard project I've seen in person. Still, yours or Ken's plane isn't really an AeroCanard, is it? ...

Nope. It's not. It's a Cozy MKIV/WBHM (=With Blaspemous Headroom Modifications.)

Also, I'll be in your neighborhood from 6/23-69 and would like to see your project again. Please...

Cool. Just lemme know when. (Last I checked, there were only 30 days in June. Are you hitting the sauce today??? )

How do you really feel about Ken's plane, Jon? :-).

I, for one, think he likes it.

 

He's right. It is a Cozy IV w/Aerocanard top. (Like mine.)

Also, down-draft cooling. (Like mine.)

Also, push/pull vernier throttle/mixture controls. (Like mine.)

 

I like it too. (And I'm copying the heck out of it! )

, especially the 'keeper' they use to set the pin via an a set screw. I like Jerry's application a lot (what a craftsman that guy.)

Aw, shucks. I'm a better plageurist than a craftsman. (Just ask the CozyGirrrls.)

, Seeing as I intend to use the hidden belhorn, I'll need a way to inspect those areas. This pin setup allows for that.

Actually, the pin setup is of no help in this area. The pin/keeper arrangement evolved from the need to install/remove the rudder while using ClickBonds to hold the hinges. With CB's you have to use nuts on the inside of the rudder rather than screws on the outside. There is NO WAY to get a nut on the top hinge CB's without seriously hurting yourself, even with the rudder fully deployed. One of my goals was to have as few fasteners visible as possible. CB's allow that, with the pin/keeper modification.

 

This is a pretty good example of how one change from plans can come back to haunt you. Buyer beware! (The CB mod is ONE mod I would do again...... so far.)

Anyway, I've checked out Jerry's install on his site and it looks like there are a lot of good things about this product.

Since my site was referenced, I thought I'd give my 2c.

Really, there are only 2 positive reasons to use the Carbinge:

 

1) They are really easy to shape when trying to fit the in a tight spot.

2) They won't give the famous "Dirty Weeping" lines

you eventually get from AL hinges.

 

That being said, here are the negatives:

 

1)When shaping them on the grinding wheel, you get lots of slivers.(But they're easy to see, unlike fiberglass. So, this is only 1/2 point. )

 

2)They are brittle. Serious flutter might snap them. I wouldn't put them in the ailerons for that reason.

 

3) If I remember correctly, they were more expensive than AL.

 

4) Because of their brittle nature, I would not feel comfortable using fasteners alone. As seen on my site, I used Clickbonds, (The same method described in the ailerons section.), in addition to epoxy to affix the hinges. I just didn't feel safe using epoxy on the hinges alone.

 

The BIG question: Would I do it again? Probably not.

 

If I ever need to replace them, I'll have to grind the old hinge away to make room for the new. Not a BIG pain, but a pain never the less.

 

IMHO, the Carbinges are excellent for fastening cowlings and hingeing small doors and areas that have curves, but not the best choice for control surfaces.

 

FWIW,

This is one of those cases where a picture (or drawing) is worth a thousand words.

I just HAPPEN to be rigging my rudders today.

Here's 2,000 words describing my installation.

 

I'm getting 4.75" rudder deflexion as measured from bottom of rudder to winglet. I probably gained @ 3/8" extra travel with this set-up.

 

(This idea came to me via Carl Denk. Thanks, Carl.)

I use Click Bond bases from JD Newman @ $.50 ea.

I think the decimal tape is like the secret decoder ring. You almost gotta have one to be part of the club.

 

I have 2. (I just wanna belong. )

 

On the practical side: With it, there's just one less thing to think about while you're measuring and cutting. (I need all the help I can get. )

I never could get epoxy out of mine.

 

You can go to their website and order the sanding strips to "renew" the blocks. They come with double-sided wide martian fly-paper. (And they stick like a BIG dog.) EZ as pie to replace.

 

It'll also give you an excuse to order more Permagrit Tools.

Jon Matcho said:

Thanks everyone for the good input. I'm locked into the per-plans design, again.

Which is not a bad place to be. Speaking from personal experience, I feel these types of modifications are for the ones building their 2nd plane. We 1st-time builders, for the most part, have very little idea as to the ramifications/repercussions (sp?) of such mods.

My "unsolicited" advice?: If you are interested in modifications, stick to the ones already done by someone else.... successfully. You'll get into the air MUCH sooner.

This opinion has come from personal experience. YMMV.

well I made a ton of calls to find places to stay. All the locals are full. Next best choices seemed to be about 50 miles away...

I've found a nice mom & pop about 18 miles away with good availability...

New remodeled withing the year and breakfest included....

waiting for the Owner to call for particulars on a deal for the rest of of who have just found the time to go....

Mitchell,

I've been to RR 4 times. Never seen one where somebody couldn't get a room at the Lodge or the 2 places up the street, (1/2 mile away).

Weather, gripes and what-not seems to strike a significant percentage every year.

Why not just bring a tent just in case EVERYONE makes it and there are no rooms? It's only for 2 nights, and they NEVER run out of room at the field.

 

St Pete,FL

Do you have to go through AC Spruce to buy from Todd?

I didn't....

Hi, my name is Remi and I'm a ratio pump user.

Hi Remi. Welcome to P. A. (Pumpers Anonymous).

Just remember... Let go... Let Scale.

 

Sorry. I just couldn't resist.

You will get a pump eventually. You will spend the same amount of $ for it, (perhaps get one that needs a little TLC at a good price).

You may not, and you won't. A good electronic scale is <$100. I've been doing it for 7 years. No desire to switch. I prefer the scale for a number of reasons already posted. Like I said, each to his own.

After finishing my first plane, and being too lazy to clean my pump, I decided to fabricate an Aux tank..

Never had to do clean ANYTHING. I'm lazy too.

Because of the aforementioned laziness, I used the weight method. It worked, but took longer, was infinately messier don't forget you need two cups, one which will remain with uncured goo and always seemed to be knocked over, expelling it's remaining contents (sticky) on the area, needed greater concentration for a good mix..

Not if you use an electronic scale. I use one cup. If the cup doesn't cure, the layup I did with that batch needs to be trashed. (Safety check?)

I couldn't wait to stop that foolishness and get back to my pump. When I made my fuselage parts (at Aerocad, in their molds) I used the pump. It probably saved multiple hours.

Foolishness? A little harsh/critical, but once again, maybe argoldman has never used an electronic scale. Mutiple hours saved? I really doubt it. I feel I can pour a 276gm batch of heated MGS epoxy as fast as a pump.

 

Lastly, and again, peruse the Archives. Make the choice for yourself. They are both good ways to do it. (Tomaytoes vs. Tomahtows)

Lynn,

 

You may want to try searching the Cozy Archives. There are a plethora of opinions for you to evaluate.

 

Here's my take: Most who start with the pump, like the pump. Most who start with the scale (digital), like the scale. And rarely the twain shall meet.

It's hard to beleive, but there is no clear winner when you look at the group of bulders as a whole.

Some feel the the scale is more cumbersome due to the odd mixing ratios of the various epoxies. I post an excel spreadsheet nearby to get around that.

Some feel the pump needs to be cleaned out periodically due to hardener crystalization, so they prefer the scale, (me). Some don't.

 

The large mixing cups can hold at least 200g of resin plus the needed hardener, which is about the largest batch I feel comfortable with considering exotherm issues. So, the large batch thing doesn't come into play.... for me. Others will disagree. Oh well.

 

What it really comes down to is personal preference. Flip a coin and use the time you saved ruminating over which is best to make a few extra parts. Or, (my reccomendation), peruse the Archives for the pros/cons/issues to determine what YOU are most comfortable with, because this issue has been explored extensively, and some of the more "experienced" builders might not feel like going over it again, (which might limit the number of data points for you to consider.). Damn, THAT was a long sentence.

Some people like sedans, some like trucks, and some crazy idiots even like to fly. It's all good.

 

FWIW,

Jon wrote:

"It was you Jerry that convinced me that this route was AOK. I just haven't found the perfect squeeze bottles just yet; I'm still pouring directly out of the containers (hardener into a temporary mouthwash cup, then carefully into the mixing cup on the scale)."

 

Stop looking.

I've since taken to pouring directly from the cans as well.

(Ah so.... the student has become the master. )

Personally, I don't use a pump and prefer the scale so far. I would suggest going through the first building chapter before making up your mind as well.

Jon, don't you mean an electronic scale, and NOT the balance scale mentioned in the Plans?

Just want to keep things clear.

If I could add a little to the "tighten" technique:

 

1) Turn the power on.

 

2) Tighten while strumming the wire 'till the pitch doesn't go up any more. (Torque-to-Yield)

 

3) Make your cuts.

 

4) LOOSEN the wire as you turn off the power.

 

#4 is very important if you don't want to break wires. I've never broken a wire using this technique. The only time I had any sag, is when I tried to cut too fast. Patience, Grasshopper!