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Jerry Schneider

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Posts posted by Jerry Schneider

  1. I'd fill my epoxy shoes with Ragu and eat them cold before eating at "The Worlds Best Joint"

    Good idea! That way , you save on the cheese AND crust!

    ...and those kids doing kareoke, take a jumbo sized jar of peanut butter and as soon as one opens their shrill little gob, shove a handful of peanut butter in there, that place is a nightmare! :bad:

    Why would you want to be so mean to peanut butter???:confused:
  2. . It seriously muddies up the thread like mentioning retracts -anywhere- I can predict how that will go and who all will weigh in on both sides, its tiresome and always comes off like a racial/ethnic/or political argument, people entrench in their camps, nobody gives an inch, nobody learns a thing. Its very much like watching a Civil War renactment.

    ...and its spelled "Chrissi"

    Krisssy,

     

    I think the scale is MUCH more betta than the pump. :D:bad:

  3. I ruminated quite a bit over this subject when I was in the finishing stage.

    Although many people have used this technique, I just didn't like the idea of possibly messing up the chemical/mechanical properties of the micro.

     

    My technique came down to this:

    1) Mix micro to the consistency of thick peanut butter.

    2) Smear a big glob/bead on with the heel of my gloved hand.

    3) Heat an appropriately sized drywall taping knife with a MAP gas torch and spread micro with firm pressure to eliminate bubbles.

    4) Only do 2 strokes over the micro . A third stroke will tend to make the micro lift up behind the blade. You can't put on too much.... Only too little. Then, you'll have to re-apply and get caught in the vicious fill/sand, fill/sand cycle, because as the micro cures, it develops a "hardshell" on itself, making it a pain to re-do. Do your best to fill once, and sand once.

     

    You'll be amazed at how easy the micro spreads and resists peeling off with a hot blade!

  4. Haven't used it, but I heard somewhere it wasn't the easiest stuff to slide down on.

     

    I'm getting ready to do my upholstery with the synthetic leather from CH Draw. They make a product that has good "rub test" numbers (durability) and doesn't mind water.

     

    Now... If I could only fine someone who doesn't want $200 per seat to sew the up.:irked:

  5. I am looking for an alternative solution to the Brock throttle quadrant for my Long Ez. I would prefer a push pull system and would be interested in any sucessful applications. Thanks.

    Here's one.

    It's Ken Laundrie's plane. (He states he uses the cup holders all the time.)

     

    I've copied the heck out of his installation, and am in the process of making the throttle/mixture brackets.

    I got cables from https://shop.tuthill.com/Cablecraft/

    Models: Throttle Friction Lock 565-555 and Mixture Control 565-550-B

     

    Yeah Cupholders!!!!:D

    post-54-14109016639_thumb.jpg

  6. Sorry my site doesn't go into better detail.

     

    I have the CG strakes. I made the skins in one piece, (I got the foam from a boat supply store.) I glassed the entire under-side of the top skins first.

     

    The dip/gap that forms at the CG Strakes is no big deal because it's a dry area. Just make sure the foam/glass is right at the wet area of R-33 (or is it R-38? I'm going from memory here.) You can easily fix those areas later.

     

    After you glass the bottom side of the top skin, (and it has cured.), place the skin, mark the ribs with a pen, and put box tape to the places where the ribs ride. Epoxy wide peel ply to the box tape, (this makes the top skins pop off the flanges easily.). Then place the skin on, weight it down, layup the t-flanges, and let cure.

    Pop the skins off, remove the peel-ply and tape, and you're good to go.

     

    Put the bottom skins on. Then the top skins.

     

    HTH

  7. I do not know how much structural intergrity the baffles ad and if they would be a factor for metal bladders.

    I'd bet money the strakes tend to lock in the main spar to minimize twisting. Therefore, I would do my best to work around the baffles/ribs. (Unless they are different in a Velocity than a Cozy.)
  8. I use MGS. You don't say what epoxy you're using.

     

    As far as MGS goes:

     

    The resin? Yes.

     

    The hardener? Not unless you're sure the plastic is not permeable to CO2. Some plastics let it through, and it will spoil your hardener.

    Better to store it in the can it came in.

     

    I've been pouring from the can for years. I have a dispensing system for the resin, so I set the cup on the scale, zero the scale, pour the hardner first, (as it's difficult to get the exact amount poured), check the excel spreadsheet on the wall to find the requisite amount of resin to dispense, and open the resin valve untill the number is right. Viola'

  9. Oh well, out to the hangar with my new batch of fiberglass, EZ-Poxy and Jeffco to rebuild my strake interiors <sigh>.:cool2:

     

    Chris,

     

    Did you determine the cause of the Jeffco adhesion problem you had?

    Sorry if I missed it.:o

  10. Does anyone know about any requirement for a FAR25.853 burn certificate for upholstery in our planes?

     

    I asked for a quote from a fabric company, and they gave me a quote and told me an additional $50 to the FAA for the certificate.

     

    I want the properties, but not the fee....

     

    My guess is it's not required in our planes.

     

    Inquiring minds want to know......

  11. What's the quick change feature?

    The hub post is hollow. Instead of screwing into the hub, (old-style), the fastener goes thru the hub to a lever which has a cam latch on it, which draws a fastener tight against the hub of the tool from the other side. :cool:
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