N200LZ: Carbon Fiber Instrument Panel

[TMann]

I getting ready to cut out my instrument panel and replace it with a slanted version. My new panel will be slated away from me at about 10 degrees (and possibly as much as 15 degrees .... haven't decided.)

In either case, I want my new panel to be removeable and have that snarky carbon fiber look to it.

 

My question is:

What is the best procedure in order to end up with a smooth finish.

I'm thinking 2 plies of glass on the inside (aft) face then a second application using the Carbon Fiber.

All done in a vacuum bag followed by a glaze of resin after I pull the peel ply.

 

Sound reasonable?

[Vacabrava]

TMann,

I made my IP with one layer of carbon fiber. Very nice look.

Rather shines but I can live with it.

The way I done mine is to put the carbon over the IP, wet the cloth, and cover with a real smooth plastic sheet.

If you have some wrinkles in the plastic, squezze them off.

After done, if you have some wrinkled areas you can 320 grit sand localy, apply pure epoxy and cover the part you correct.

I don`t used the peel ply over the carbon, just in top of the glass work.

If you put the peel ply you don`t have the cool epoxy splendour.

You can see my IP in my ch04, with confort supports to the legs on all sides.

Regards,

[TMann]

Not sure how that would work without peel ply when vacuum bagging.

It sounds like the final coat of epoxy may be the ticket.

 

I intend to use click bonds on the back of the panel to permit the removal of the panel.

 

We'll see.

[Vacabrava]

Ok I cat now,

In my case I made all the glass work with vacuum bag.

After I sanded and applied the carbon fiber.

But if you want to do all layups on the vacuum, you will need to 320grit sand the roughness that the peel ply leaves in the layer and a litlle of the carbon too.

Then you apply the pure epoxy and cover with the plastic.

If you want the shine.

[Lynn Erickson]

Ok I cat now,

In my case I made all the glass work with vacuum bag.

After I sanded and applied the carbon fiber.

But if you want to do all layups on the vacuum, you will need to 320grit sand the roughness that the peel ply leaves in the layer and a litlle of the carbon too.

Then you apply the pure epoxy and cover with the plastic.

If you want the shine.

I you want flat shiny carbon panels. do the layups on a piece of glass and bag them

[NeilK]

TMann,

 

Some (if not most) of the fancy new EFIS panels don't like to be slanted. Autopilots heads and turn coordinators don't like it either.

 

Wet carbon on plate glass works really well. Just be sure to have some sort of release agent on the glass. No need to sandwich it in plate glass since no one is going to see the back side anyway. Vacuum bagging does a nice job of keeping any bubbles out. When you're done you will have a mirror finish with the carbon weave. Be aware that you will get severe glare when the sun shines from the right angles.

[Lifessamsara]

TMann, have you considered the conductive nature of carbon and the possible galvanic corrosion issues with any metal fasteners and instruments you use (titanium fasteners are ok tho). Often a layer of veil glass mat is placed over the carbon to insulate the direct metal contact on the flat faces, but do give consideration to potential contact with carbon as fasteners attach through the IP.

Whilst looking very cool, I do have concerns about the mirror finish IP reflecting glare as well.

 

Just my 2 bobs worth.

 

Bruce.

[Vacabrava]

I you want flat shiny carbon panels. do the layups on a piece of glass and bag them

Hey Lynn, your you're right.

But as I did the reinforcements with a smooth curve to comfort to the legs, I had to use the plastic.

However, you can do the flat IP parts first with the glass(best surface to do that) and then the tapes of carbon in curves.

Look the close up of my IP.

Regards.

[Lynn Erickson]

TMann, have you considered the conductive nature of carbon and the possible galvanic corrosion issues with any metal fasteners and instruments you use (titanium fasteners are ok tho). Often a layer of veil glass mat is placed over the carbon to insulate the direct metal contact on the flat faces, but do give consideration to potential contact with carbon as fasteners attach through the IP.

Whilst looking very cool, I do have concerns about the mirror finish IP reflecting glare as well.

 

Just my 2 bobs worth.

 

Bruce.

if you have enough moisture on you instrument panel to worry about the carbon effecting the fasteners, you may have bigger problem with the instruments and radios that no longer work.

[TMann]

TMann,

 

Some (if not most) of the fancy new EFIS panels don't like to be slanted. Autopilots heads and turn coordinators don't like it either.

 

Actually most of the standard steam guages don't like to be slanted beyond the 7-8 degree range. The Glass Panels are not sensitive this way. When you view an LCD display, the closer you get to perpendicular, the clearer the display. Components that are sensitive to vert. alignment can be remotely installed or that area of the panel can be contored to an acceptable profile.

Wet carbon on plate glass works really well. Just be sure to have some sort of release agent on the glass. No need to sandwich it in plate glass since no one is going to see the back side anyway. Vacuum bagging does a nice job of keeping any bubbles out. When you're done you will have a mirror finish with the carbon weave. Be aware that you will get severe glare when the sun shines from the right angles.

That sounds great. I have a large mirror sitting around looking to justify it's existence. It may have just found a purpose. I'm thinking I could do the glass layups first with peel ply then do a final layup of the CF face down on the mirror/glass.

Excellent tip. I'll do some trial pieces.

 

TMann, have you considered the conductive nature of carbon and the possible galvanic corrosion issues with any metal fasteners and instruments you use (titanium fasteners are ok tho).

Yes, I have. The fasteners will not be in contact with the carbon fiber. The pel will have clickbonds on the back so I will have a smoothe front to it. The biggest issue I am aware of involves the contact between CF and Aluminum. I'm using many of the techniques used in the Berkut and am well versed in this problem and the need for a barrier between the two but thanks for pointing that out.

[mfryer]

Epoxy (many anyhow) will break down without a UV barrier. I suggest you test a piece with a few coats of marine varnish. My kayak was like glass after a few coats of West followed by a few of varnish.

[TMann]

Epoxy (many anyhow) will break down without a UV barrier. I suggest you test a piece with a few coats of marine varnish. My kayak was like glass after a few coats of West followed by a few of varnish.

Hey PTM,

Isn't there a UV barrier type clear coat available? I see CF hoods on the little tricked out cars the kids are driving. I'm guessing they get a ton more UV than my panel will.

[NeilK]

TMann,

 

I wasn't thinking of engine monitors but rather devices like the Dynon electronic flight instrument system, GRT EFIS, Blue Mountain... Any thing with a gyro, accelerometer or magnetometer. My Dynon hates being nose down especially the compass.

[TMann]

TMann,

 

I wasn't thinking of engine monitors but rather devices like the Dynon electronic flight instrument system, GRT EFIS, Blue Mountain... Any thing with a gyro, accelerometer or magnetometer. My Dynon hates being nose down especially the compass.

Yeah, I've been told 8 degrees is the limit for those.

[Lynn Erickson]

Yeah, I've been told 8 degrees is the limit for those.

most of the instruments that are effected are sold either 0 or 8 degree tilt. that has been the aviation standard for 50 years. you will pay more for an 8 degree instrument.

[Alfons]

have done that it looks good

I applied resin to the panel and put the carbon on there after let is seep through from the back and stipple the dry areas to maintain the texture of the carbon fiber to avoid a reflecting surface.

The large circuit brakers are mounted to the keel cente i.e landing gear; control main; alternator and key switch stay int the A/C the rest is pluged so tha panel can be removed in 30min.

Slanting the panel may force you to use electronic instumentation see other comments

 

I put a picture in my blog

http://blogspace.mweb.co.za/default.aspx?alias=Velocity

[Wayne Hicks]

I built this panel for my buddy and his Long-EZ. I used a large, white, dry-erase marker board. I waxed the surface first, placed the carbon on the board, then wet out the carbon. (I think I laid up two plies carbon and 1 ply bid.) I made sure the first ply was well saturated so that all peaks and valleys were full.

 

The layup released easily from the marker board.

 

The shine of the epoxy can be dulled by spraying the layup with a satin finish clear coat available from an arts and craft store.

[TMann]

I used a large, white, dry-erase marker board. I waxed the surface first, placed the carbon on the board, then wet out the carbon.

Hey Wayne ..... timing is everything. I snagged a bieg whiteboard from work that they were going to toss (the frame was broken). This sounds like just the ticket.

 

Thanks!

T Mann

[TMann]

I did check out the following:

The Dynon can tilt as much as 30 degrees and still perform. 15 should be perpendicular to my line of sight.

 

The unit must be aligned with the direction of travel.

(3-11 of the install instructions.)