Vacabrava

Hi Fernando,I made my gear leg of UNI glass roving. The thickest you can find in Argentina is good. And I think the suposed foam leg that you saw on cozybuilders is mine. So let me explain to you, there are NO FOAM inside the leg structure, just fiberglass, ok? You build the mold plug out of foam, over the foam you laminate 10 plies of BID or more, after it cure you throw out the foam. Like that you have one mold that you can make your leg strut with the UNI roving and epoxy. Find the better epoxy to high temperature purpose. Heat cure like Waiter`s said. There are another way to make the mold, like in two parts that are clamped together, I think this is the way to go. Cheers,

I used acetone on polyvinyl esther resin, when fixing some swimming pool chairs.But with epoxy is that good too?

Ok Marc, Good point on the flutter. I will not fly with oxigen. I hate cold temperatures, I live in one tropical country. My question was based on the Nat statment of 20k. And is well aswered. My concern is that mine CZ will be one turbo autoengine. So I don`t want to hit the Vne, let`s say at 12k ft.

Hi, For our Cozy Mark IV, Nat stabilished Vne of 220mph, it is at 20000' density altitude? Our should we fly near 165mph IAS when in the 20kft?

TMann,I don`t developed the brackets of the FHC latch yet. But my approach is to have the actuator of the latch inside the canopy frame, above the sticks. So they are on my field of vision. When I have some drawings, or photos, I let you know. My concern is about all the hardware and tubes exposed. I don`t like that. Our canopy have some foam thickness that is possible to cross one SS tiny tube or thick SS wire(0.098") inside the frame to actuate the latch. Since the latch tongue is pending from the canopy to cross inside the shoulder foam around the SS tube to hold the canopy. I don`t decide if I go one big FHC or the small front canopy and gullwing door, like BigSteve.

TMann,Sorry, but could you ask me another way? I don`t understand what is fiel of vision. Marc,I accept your care, and is welcome to me. To be quasi-isotropic my layup must have more two plies of 60/-60, ok? But listen, please, I don`t finished the supports yet, Ok? I will write that on my site sorry. I have to make more 3 plies kevlar and 2ply BID glass each side of the support extending bottom and side fuse by 4". I think like that is suitable to hold one impact. Since the plans method is one plywood of aprox. 3sq.in. laped 1" 7plies BID all sides. You know that the kevlar do not break up catastrothic, like carbon or glass. The support could get off the sides and longeron, but never will break. That is what I know and hope. Let`s do some calcs. Each ply of kevlar holds 200kgf/cm², with the 13ply kevlar I have 2600kgf/cm², and I have the 2plies of carbon and the 4 plies of 7725. I think the concern is attenuated now, or are not?

Hi, I bought one 4-point Wesco red seatbelt with wrap around end shoulder harness. I will not use the shoulders hard points, since I am not confident about then. Instead I will fix one 1" SS tube inside the shoulder foam/glass, with 2 slots of 2" wide(separate 8.5") to wrap the seatbelt around the tube. I will use the tube to hold the canopy latch too. Two latchs tongues fixed both sides in the FHC frame get inside the foam, through split gaps, to close the canopy holding around the tube. Well, if the seatbelts are for car use, the thought is that if in some roll over crash when the crew remain steady on the seatbelts upside down, you can easily release the seatbelt with all the weight of one body being hold, and get free. If the latch of the seatbelt could not be released the airplane or racing car seatbelts quality are just trash, not to use nor in the childrens buggy car. I made my side hardpoint very different, you can see that on my ch08 site.

Until I know there are many types of treatment to the roving yarn, depending on the fiber(glass, carbon, aramide, boron, etc), before the industry make the fabric or cloth. The glass fiber is treated with Silane to proper bond of the matrix to the fiberglass. Then we can build our fighters.

Wladmir, To inspire you, and if you don`t know that one yet, go to: http://www.cozybuilders.org/Oshkosh_Presentations/2007_Blended_Winglet_Eracer.pdf That is Marc`s Oshkosh presentation of Jack`s ERacer blended winglet. Real cool stuff. Cheers.

TMann, I remember you posting about your carbon IP. I want to see that. Post one photo to us. Drew, I made mine with 1", like the stiffner`s called in the plans. And 1/4" rounded the front and the rear borders. I made one real smoth curvature. With micro on the corners. Aft the IP I leaved the lips to fix the wires.

When I built my bulkheads, I would use the excellent and precise method of Drew. But I have to buy a router. So I decided to move on and do as Tmann did, very simple and you do not smudge the scissors when triming, or waiting for the pot life to cut burrs. With the plans method you need to trim very close of the foam to not have one hang out of the fibers. The prior cut of the foam with a razor is terrible, sometimes when cutting you make some holes, get some foam out, make zig-zag, etc... Simply pass the contour to the ready laminate and trim with the fein. Take a look in my Chapter 4, look that the IP has reinforcements on all sides, it brings much comfort to your legs. Cause the left portion of the leg cutout to the pilot is sharp edge, and to the co-pilot the rigth edge.

Erlend, I peel ply all my Cozy parts. I don`t build the wings nor the turtleback. I bougth 83sq.yrds. and have yet half of the roll. I think 100sq.yrds. you do all the work, but is better to buy until you need. Read the other post about peel ply being in the laminate. I used two tipes of peel ply, one was very malleable, like pure fin cotton, that one is not good. The other is nylon tipe. Good stuff. Get out of the laminate very easy. Check the properties here: http://www.barracudatec.com.br/produtos-vacuo-peelply.htm So check the cloth quality to not have the unhevelled concern. Cheers.

Some times this happen to me. I just pull off the cloth yarns with the point of one stileto. Wel, often peel ply dishevelled and is not so deep. I think sand is a bad idea, since you can reach the fiberglass trying to get the yarns out. Cheers.

Thak you Marc, I make some calcs and get that if I apply 1.5 safety factor, to the CZ gross weight, I think mine will be 2160lbs. I have 3240lbs to test each leg. The drop test, I will do the maximum, 18.7 inches of height. I will continue to ready the FARs. And TMann, I know Infinity gear, very beautiful product, but I don`t like hydraulics, they leak`s. If I proceed and pass FARs I am ready to fly, with legs fixed on the projected landing gear bulkheads. I let you know when I perform the tests. Best Regards.

Hey Jeff,I am with you. Yesterday I posted one new thread, here are, http://www.canardzone.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8466 I did not have any answers, as here we discussed the sex of angels. And good builders and flyers also responded to this topic. I ask you all: this forum is for discussing canard okay? I do not understand how I bring a good thing that is a retractable that fits into a Cozy but can fit one LEz, that any builder can construct, and do not even get a reply? The figures are wrong. There is little focus on important things and relegate to good ideas. Sincerity,