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Test Ez project Chapter 7


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Jeff

 

I dont mean to worry you but do you have F22 around the wrong way ? Shouldn't the doubler be on the back ? :confused:

G'day

 

Good eye. I wished I would have seen that about four weeks ago....

Yes, I have a doubler on both sides of F22 now. I will trim the corners of the forward one down for the canard. :o

 

I sniffed a few to many fumes that day and mis-read (Doh!) the plans. Mid-week after the cure I noticed the problem (Doh doh doh...). :confused:

 

I made another doubler per earlier chapter; glassed and installed on the back (correct side) of F22. I then restrapped with BID. I wrapped the mess with plastic wrap, epoxy, and Flox. I then used clamps to install the second F22 doubler on the correct side. My bulkhead now has two doublers (tripler). As I said, I will need to trim the forward doubler to install the canard later. Microsoft calls this a service pack for an undocumented feature.:o

 

I will have a weight penalty in the nose area. I will have to start drinking diet beer.;)

 

Thanks for your comments and good eye. I didn't get the feedback for several days and the whole thing had cured. I would have damanged F22 in the removal and re-install process.

 

 

Jeff

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:( ..... did the same thing myself. Got distracted and put it on backwards. Even with the Fein, there is no graceful way to remove it. I ended up using my skill saw with a carbide blade to get a clean edge again and made a new bulkhead. It was worth the effort.

T Mann - Loooong-EZ/20B Infinity R/G Chpts 18

Velocity/RG N951TM

Mann's Airplane Factory

We add rocket's to everything!

4, 5, 6, 7, 8. 9, 10, 14, 19, 20 Done

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What is with the foam spacer between the fuse bottom and the nose gear cover? I do not recall that in the plans?

 

That is a mod to allow extra room for gear doors to close all the way. My advisor told me to not add more than 1 inch to the bottom because of the nose gear crank clearance. He said it was easier to correct now than wait until I discovered that when the nose wheel was retracted the doors didn't have room to close. I added some spare .999 inch foam.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Jeff :D

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That is a mod to allow extra room for gear doors to close all the way. My advisor told me to not add more than 1 inch to the bottom because of the nose gear crank clearance. He said it was easier to correct now than wait until I discovered that when the nose wheel was retracted the doors didn't have room to close. I added some spare .999 inch foam.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Jeff :D

Understood. Except for how someone can measure and cuts foam to .001 precision! :)

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Understood. Except for how someone can measure and cuts foam to .001 precision! :)

G'day

 

I use a simple seven step process that I have perfected.

 

Step 1 Measure with micrometer.

Step 2 Mark with a fine calk.

Step 3 Cut with a sharp axe.

Step 4 Beat or Sand to fit.

Step 5 Flox the gaps.

Step 6 Paint to match.

 

(Optional) Step 7(a) Determine it is backwards. Yell "F**K ME TO TEARS!"

 

Step 7 Drink a Beer. Think what to do next.

 

Hope this helps. Feel free to use the system anytime.

 

Jeff

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I can now say I'm an experienced builder so I'll give some good advice....

 

Step 5 in some cases micro can be used as a lighter alternative to flox. You can also use a precision Sharpie pen for step 2 and a precision hand saw for step 3.

 

There are no mistakes in composite building, only delays. :D

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