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serious brake major problem


dedeok1

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hi every one from andré bouchard quebec under cfrmz@hotmail.com new owner of a long ez based at cfb bagotville quebec canada.my question is that i put 26 hrs work on the brake system of my plane and still did not solve the problem ,the aircraft brake is very poor et not dependable on landing and i am grounded for that.here what i have done so far.replaced o ring at the brake assembly in the wheels.bled the system twice from bottom and up in the top engine compartiment from the actuator also.shorten the pedal travel for more pressure apply on pedal.the only thing not done yet is to break down the actuator master cylinder assembly for cleaning.i did remove the wheels cowling for coolling purpose also but still after few secondes the brakes is gone the aircfrat do not turn both side overheat very fats also .on run up the brake do not hold the plane in place even with tremendus pedal effort what seems to be my problem i am desperate et need good advise thans"s in advance please use my e mail address for further info bye now and keep flying safely .

1991long ez 458TTSN lycoming 023012c 118 hp 1360smot apolloflybodygps,garmin195moving map .navcom,vor&com760,xpdr encoder mode

c,auto pilot/turn coordinator tracks gps voice recorder aiddevices.nav/strob/position lights, new light starter, spin oilfilterB&cspecproduc,airbrake.Nose electr,wheelpants turn coord electr,bagage pop,prop prince a p-tipp58 bp69l 4 chts,4egt,vortex generator

,IFR tangs 52 gal US cruising speed 250km/hrs masse max 873kgs empty weight 918 lbs registered home built

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did you "Burn in" the new brakes?

 

The brakes pads need to be subjected to heat to cure their internal epoxies and harden the liners.

 

Here is what I do after I install new pads

 

Do a low speed taxi with the brakes moderately applied, as they start to fade, release the brakes and continue taxi very slowly to allow them to cool.

 

Repeat with a medium speed taxi (10 - 15 kts), the brakes moderately applied, at the first sign of fading, release the brakes and continue slowly without applying brakes to allow to cool.

 

Repeat one or two more time at a Higher speed (30 - 40 kts) (I'll do this on the runway as a high speed taxi test)

 

The brakes should now hold firmly at full throttle.

 

Waiter

F16 performance on a Piper Cub budget

LongEZ, 160hp, MT CS Prop, Downdraft cooling, Full retract

visit: www.iflyez.com

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hi every one from andré bouchard quebec under cfrmz@hotmail.com new owner of a long ez based at cfb bagotville quebec canada.my question is that i put 26 hrs work on the brake system of my plane and still did not solve the problem ,the aircraft brake is very poor et not dependable on landing and i am grounded for that.here what i have done so far.replaced o ring at the brake assembly in the wheels.bled the system twice from bottom and up in the top engine compartiment from the actuator also.shorten the pedal travel for more pressure apply on pedal.the only thing not done yet is to break down the actuator master cylinder assembly for cleaning.i did remove the wheels cowling for coolling purpose also but still after few secondes the brakes is gone the aircfrat do not turn both side overheat very fats also .on run up the brake do not hold the plane in place even with tremendus pedal effort what seems to be my problem i am desperate et need good advise thans"s in advance please use my e mail address for further info bye now and keep flying safely .

2 more things also first i put a camera a (canadian tire rear car view type) for seen a the back at the prop area for run-up safety and in flight to have a rear view outside for incoming trafic it works great just running on batteries but a soon a i have the engine going it cuts out completely probaly because of interference cycles how can i bypass this ??? last thing i whant to bye a pilot helmet( fighter ou helico type)but should i considere after a 2hrs ride that it would be heavy to wear and getting innapropriate for flying ???if not where to bye one ??? thank"s in advance , please use my e mail address for further info sent to me bye now and keep flying safely .http://cfrmz@hotmail.com

1991long ez 458TTSN lycoming 023012c 118 hp 1360smot apolloflybodygps,garmin195moving map .navcom,vor&com760,xpdr encoder mode

c,auto pilot/turn coordinator tracks gps voice recorder aiddevices.nav/strob/position lights, new light starter, spin oilfilterB&cspecproduc,airbrake.Nose electr,wheelpants turn coord electr,bagage pop,prop prince a p-tipp58 bp69l 4 chts,4egt,vortex generator

,IFR tangs 52 gal US cruising speed 250km/hrs masse max 873kgs empty weight 918 lbs registered home built

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2 more things also first i put a camera a (canadian tire rear car view type) for seen a the back at the prop area for run-up safety and in flight to have a rear view outside for incoming trafic it works great just running on batteries but a soon a i have the engine going it cuts out completely probaly because of interference cycles how can i bypass this ??? last thing i whant to bye a pilot helmet( fighter ou helico type)but should i considere after a 2hrs ride that it would be heavy to wear and getting innapropriate for flying ???if not where to bye one ??? thank"s in advance , please use my e mail address for further info sent to me bye now and keep flying safely .http://cfrmz@hotmail.com

 

Dede, the first thing that you have to determine is, Is the camera or screen getting power when you loose video.

 

It's somewhat easy to go step by step and at locate where the problem lies. It will save you much time in many times unnecessary repairs.

 

Logically, if a radio or any thing electronic quits, find out if it is getting power. If it is intermittent, and the intermittency is periodic and predictable, FIND OUT IF IT IS GETTING POWER when the intermittent failure happens.

 

IF power is available, disconnect the camera feed. Are the symptoms the same as when the unit fails??

 

You can also aim the camera somewhere else and test under the fault conditions. There are many things that can cause your problems, but you must first locate the part of the system that is failing.

 

Further testing goes step by step from camera ending up at monitor device.

Temporarily replace the wiring, the screen, the switches, NEVER all at the same time-- Step by step.

 

Best of luck

I Canardly contain myself!

Rich :D

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hi every one from andré bouchard quebec under cfrmz@hotmail.com new owner of a long ez based at cfb bagotville quebec canada.my question is that i put 26 hrs work on the brake system of my plane and still did not solve the problem ,the aircraft brake is very poor et not dependable on landing and i am grounded for that.here what i have done so far.replaced o ring at the brake assembly in the wheels.bled the system twice from bottom and up in the top engine compartiment from the actuator also.shorten the pedal travel for more pressure apply on pedal.the only thing not done yet is to break down the actuator master cylinder assembly for cleaning.i did remove the wheels cowling for coolling purpose also but still after few secondes the brakes is gone the aircfrat do not turn both side overheat very fats also .on run up the brake do not hold the plane in place even with tremendus pedal effort what seems to be my problem i am desperate et need good advise thans"s in advance please use my e mail address for further info bye now and keep flying safely .

take note of my new e mail address old one dedeok1 now change for cfrmz@hotmail.com and the name of the plane is skyrunner

1991long ez 458TTSN lycoming 023012c 118 hp 1360smot apolloflybodygps,garmin195moving map .navcom,vor&com760,xpdr encoder mode

c,auto pilot/turn coordinator tracks gps voice recorder aiddevices.nav/strob/position lights, new light starter, spin oilfilterB&cspecproduc,airbrake.Nose electr,wheelpants turn coord electr,bagage pop,prop prince a p-tipp58 bp69l 4 chts,4egt,vortex generator

,IFR tangs 52 gal US cruising speed 250km/hrs masse max 873kgs empty weight 918 lbs registered home built

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I hate brakes...

There are several things that can be going wrong----and you will need to check them off to see what is happening.

 

-First of all, do the brake lines have the proper inside diameter. If they are too small, you will need a lot of muscle to actuate the brakes. I had this problem---and so did Berkut13.com----and you can read about his experience there.

 

-Waiter pointed out the the burn-in. But you don't need to check for brake sufficiency at run up. With the nose door open, grab the pedal and mash it down with your hand. Then try to rock the plane back and forth on each wheel---it should be locked solidly. If you can't hold it here, it won't hold under power either.

 

-Air in the lines. If still confused about what is going on at the puck, take the brake off the plane (line still attached) and have someone actuate the brake. You should see the cylinder move outward. If it is not moving, you have air.

 

-Leaky connections. You may do a good job bleeding the brakes---but find out a day or so later that the brakes are now spongy again from a leak in the system. A leak (combination of fluid out and air in) can either be in the brake line itself, one of the fittings, the slave cylinder orings or the master cylinder orings. Some planes (like mine) have a fitting where the brake line makes the transition to running down the leg---this can leak too. If you are running nyloflow or nyloseal (can't remember which is which---and always have to check when I am doing brakes)---make sure you are using the proper inserts and fittings that go on the ends of the line. If you use the wrong one for the wrong line type, it will leak.

 

-If you have "plastic" brake lines---they must be protected from the brake heat and from light. If you fail to do this, they will leak.

 

umm---that's all I can think of.

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I always buff the braking surfaces with 36 grit sandpaper before assembling brakes. Scratch all the shine off the shoes/pads and drums/discs and they work much much better. Buff is not really the right word - I scrape hell out of them working 90 degrees to the direction of travel.

 

If they are shoes, then bevel the leading edge a few mm as well.. stops new shoes from grabbing and chattering.

 

S

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