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Cmead last won the day on August 8 2019

Cmead had the most liked content!

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About Cmead

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    Almost there....
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    Wichita, KS

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  1. Hey all, anyone happen to have a nice used O-235 6" Prop Extension laying around that they might want to sell? Feel free to message me if you do!
  2. Cmead

    Panel Upgrade

    I have a lead on a nice new/used (never installed) EFIS for my panel and might be selling the existing stuff. I'd be selling an iFly 740B, EZ Pilot Auto Pilot & Servo and a UltraEFIS AVMAP. All in working condition. What do you all think is a fair price for those? Thanks in advance!
  3. Marc, Thanks for the response. I sent an email to you and thanks for the feedback.
  4. Here I am again, thanks to all the help this board has offered over the last few months. We get one thing solved, and another sticks its head up. I feel like I'm playing Whack-A-Mole.... Noticed this yesterday on a preflight. It definitely has not been there before. We've only got about 10 hours, 20 (ish) landings. None hard landings, probably not the best, but nothing that I think could cause this. A little back note, the main gear has always "popped". Sometimes while you're raising the nose, when you're pushing around, hard to hear with motor running, but I'm sure it's doing that as well when taxi. When the plane was delivered we were told that it was normal and it would stop when everything get's broken in.... Anyway...it looks like to me like when the wheels leave the ground, the gear springs (down and in from no weight) it's cracking right below the gear bow. I've attached a few pics. Basically, is this cosmetic, or do I have a VERY serious/gear falling off/major major issue? My initial thought was to cut a little more space so the gear has more room to spring, epoxy the crack shut and move on down the road. Will need to be fixed this winter when we plan to repaint.
  5. I've searched and read the board posts about the different pitch trim options. I search and found a set of plans for the Atkinson Pitch Trim setup, and it looks pretty straight forward to install/build. My only question is does anyone have this installed in a Varieze? If so, did you have to modify length at all? I found this image on the cozy site...I think...like I said, I do quite a bit of searching. I have the Strong system now, and it doesn't move very well. I've cleaned it up, lubed it with gun oil, ran it up and down outside the aircraft and it works, but it still ratchets from time to time. Not a 100% need to replace today, but is on my radar as I get the bugs worked out.
  6. Cmead

    Aileron Rigging

    Update. Added a trim tab about 18" inboard on the right wing. Worked great. Wings level and ailerons are exactly even on the TE of the wing. Now, do those adjust to be both slightly up? I thought I'd heard/seen that somewhere. Sorry for all the newbie questions but I am learning. BTW I did get a set of plans from Terf. I can't get them to load up on Windows 8 or newer. Any suggestions on that one????
  7. Cmead

    Aileron Rigging

    Marc, thanks for the reply. I’m sorry about the information lacking. I would say this is a project on my hands, but I am leaning a lot on the path. Long canard and we are middle forward on the CG. POH says 95-101 The trim system attaches to aileron control rod and uses a carbon bow to connect the linear actuator to the rod. So the trim moves both ailerons. The condition is pretty consistent regardless of speed, 110-150 kts it’s constant or very slight. I’ll look closely at the strake to wing, but wings went in pretty smoothly. Im a newbie to fiberglass. So the trim tab would just rivet on? I would assume with material on top and bottom to “squeeze”on a more significant material? I would definitely talk with my mechanic before, during, after I’m just trying to understand a little better on the attachment thought. I get the trim tab concept and that sounds like it might be a much better option.
  8. Cmead

    Aileron Rigging

    We’ve got about 7 hours or so logged in the last couple of weeks. The aircraft sat for quite some time, about 10 or so years. Our right wing wants to dip in flight. We can correct with trim (electric) but when we put enough to compensate, it’s sbout at the mechanical limit of the system. So when we turn left, we only get about a 1/2” of addition aileron control. So, left side is up and right side down...pretty significantly. Our CG is good, 96.5 to 97 when loaded. When we did the W&B, right side was 15lbs heavier in the rear main. Very little “play” or slack in the system when one is held. So...should I adjust the ailerons and rig left up and right down some while the stick is centered? What kind of drag is this causing? VEZE, O-235, seeing 145 it’s at 2400, no pants yet, silver bullet prop
  9. I thought I would pass on an update. While we were waiting for the new bayonet probes to arrive, we replaced some of the old worn out black baffling material with new red/orange silicon based material and filled some of the holes with RTV. We saw a little drop of about 20 degrees, but we know we have more work to do getting the existing baffles more "air tight". We wanted to switch from the spark plug gaskets to CHT bayonet probes with the no other changes, so we could compare the two, so we stopped and waited on them to arrive. Got them installed, flew this morning. OAT was around 80, pretty windy day but it's KS. Temps are now running around 344 @ 2300 RPM and peaked on takeoff power around 385. Our oil temp is getting a little high, but the heads are fairly fresh, so that could be causing some of that.
  10. I'll try and get some pics tonight. Thanks for your help.
  11. The Varieze just returned to flight this morning! With the temperature around 70'F we took off, wide eyed and excited...for about 10 minutes per hop, got two total in. We put an EDM-830 in ,and at the suggestion of another, we used the spark plug gaskets instead of the CHT Head Probes. We are reading about 420 (ish) on number 4 cylinder, (O-235-C2C - Silver Bullte Prop, 3" extension). We can only run about 2250 RPM, in slight climb or even level flight we get those temps. I know we have some baffle work to do, but I was wondering with the inaccuracy of the gaskets, should we be overly concerned? Anyone else running something simular? EDM states that the spark plug gaskets on Lycoming "could read 50 to 60 degrees higher"! WOW...that's totally insane when you spend good money for good information. Are the CHT Probes really that much better?
  12. Thank you very much. I PM'd you my email address.
  13. I should add: that the stiffness/resistance of the shock mechanism is probably the issue. If I don't hold that, the motor turns fine. I think the issue is the threads inside the shock must be dirty or clogged up. The screw threads on the motor side, that I can get to when the shock as at the end of the throw (screwed out by hand because the motor "ratchets"), is completely clean and lubed, but still very stiff.
  14. It doesn't have enough torque to turn the lead screw. The shock mechanism that the lead screw goes into, to adjust the throw on the trim, is very tight. So I was thinking it might just need "cleaned and lubed"...to free it up and make it turn easier so the motor would then have enough torque to turn the screw.
  15. I'm new to the forums, so I hope I have this in the correct place. I've got a strong pitch trim motor, that runs on a lead screw into some kind of cylinder/shock. My trim motor "ratchets", sounds like a cordless drill when it reaches max torque. I can move the cylinder by hand, but it's pretty stiff. So I screwed it all the way down and cleaned the screw and put a little oil on it, but it didn't help. It has safety wire on both ends and overall it looks like it's seen better days. I'd prefer to maybe disassemble and thoroughly clean it, but I have this vision of the shock shooting out and me never getting this back together again! I thought I could replace the cylinder, but I have no clue on what it is or where to find it. I tried to go to www.strongpitchtrim.com but got some odd website. ANY help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance

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