Radioflyer

Looking for a GRT EIS4000 engine monitor. No sensors required. If responding, please state serial number. Thanks.

Ok, Thanks Marc. So, while I didn't have any dis-satisfaction with the AirTracs, I decided to try the less expensive Desser AWBS, 6 ply retreads. A few less 1/32nds of tread and the 6 vs 10 ply tires will result in a lighter tire. They were $63 with free shipping, but will take a while to ship until they do their next run of re-treads.

That looks nice. Do you have a .DXF of the panel dimensions I can put into Solidworks?

That's generally the harsh truth, especially if you don't want to exceed the max gross of 1425 lbs, but its not all that terrible. While it is not advisable, many (I might guess 50% of the fleet as a wild guess) Long-Ezs fly over gross at some point even if their sporty performance is greatly diminished. Also, flying it solo isn't so bad especially since that is how the majority of our flights are flown any how. Although the "extra" weight might be stuck in the as built structure, it is possible that a plane could still have remediable weight with legacy starters, alternators, vacuum pumps, heavy wood props, high density foam seats, overbuilt cowlings, etc. So, don't stop at the panel for potential weight savings. PS- I don't know the specific plane in discussion.

I own and fly a Long-Ez (wonderful fun) and am toying with the idea of replacing it with a Cozy III. I am now requiring the benefits of side x side plus a little space in the back for my dog. Also, there is an unconfirmed suspicion that the Cozy III is faster, all things being equal, than the Long-Ez. I like the looks of the Cozy III more than that of the Mk IV, and Mk IVs are more expensive. So I'm kicking around the idea of completing or re-furbishing an older Cozy III or a stalled project. Any known possibilities out there?

My mains have worn so no tread depth left and I will soon be replacing. With an O-320 LEZ empty weight of 1,000 lbs, I've managed about 210 landings from my Airtrac, 6 ply, 5.00x5 tires. For the majority of that time I had a toe-out mis-alignment in one of the tires, but that has been corrected since the last 40 or so landings. (I rotated the mis-aligned tire once.) With proper alignment, I would expect to get more service life, but I did manage thirty five cents per landing per tire. So did I get fair to good use out of these tires? Has anybody used the Desser Tires AWBS 500x5, 6 ply re-treads?

So it appears that the Yahoo Groups service is effectively downsizing. Pictures, email attachments, files, etc will soon be deleted, leaving only text email service. I have long wished for a one-stop, canard-centric forum equal to the Van's forum site. That's probably not going to happen, even with Yahoo diminishing, but there already exists two or three alternative forums catering to canardians. These have not been frequented often enough, but now is the opportunity to change that. Let's all act together, convince your canard friends to abandon Yahoo, and populate platforms, such as this one, already serving our interests. Don't you think we would all benefit?

Yeah the retianing ring or clamp was somewhat warped. Easy enough to remedy by sanding the contact face on a very flat surface. However, the real problem is that the lip or flange of the inlet tube rests too deeply in the recess of the clamp ring. I can't believe this is purposely or carelessly done this way by the manufacturer. So, I'm going with the idea that after 1500 hours, enough vibration has cause the lip of this steel tube to "dig" deeper into the recess of the softer aluminum clamp ring. At any rate, further sanding to make the lip of the tube rest proud of the recess should allow for proper clamping and cure the air leak. That my story and I'm sticking by it.

Funny how you refer to the "rear " of your o320, when it is actually the front. Pusher aircraft can be so confusing! I too have the usual honey colored oil leaks around my engine. However, I wonder why an oil leak from the nose crankshaft oil seal would be black?

Yes ma4-spa. The induction leak would presumably make adjusting the rich/lean mixture screw difficult. As I was hoping to describe above, the leak is at the cylinder inlet port, not the sump swaged tube. Finding the leak is not the question. A watery soap solution and 10psi pressurized induction system seems to do a good job of that. The question was what troubles, if any, has been had with re-acquiring a good seal where the tube joins the cylinder intake port. Maybe I just did a bad job and have to redo. It wouldn't be the first time!

I too would welcome a merge of the various canard related forums. I'm always envious of the wealth of information that the RV guys have under the one-roof of the VAF Forum. It really is THE best site for a lot of information that is important to us such as concerns engines, avionics, painting, aerodynamics, etc. Granted, there are a few more RVs around than canards, but the only advantage that forum has in becoming what it is, is that they don't have to fight dilution of membership. The Canard-Aviators/Yahoo group has great participation, but the medium is too archaic. Forums, such as this one, are a much better medium for subject organization, stickys, pictures, browsing, searching, etc. Site owners, please do our community a favor and bring us all together under one roof. I really do think that it would significantly and favorably impact participation and...even safety. --Jose (Boston)

Engine idling rough and can't get 50 rpm rise at idle cut off. Found several possible causes. After doing an induction system pressure test, one big cause was an air leak at the inlet to the #4 cylinder. Dis-assembled, inspected, cleaned, reassembled with new, dry gasket. Still leaks. Will take apart again and insure that lip of intake flange is properly sitted in the retainer flange recess. However, I was very careful on the first attempt and am surprised it didn't remedy the situation. Maybe the retainer flange is warped. Anybody else have trouble re-sealing these intake tubes?

Sorry, my bad. I didn't look hard enough, but now see pics imbedded in posts.

Yes, I do have the carb with accelerator pump. I usually don't even "pump" the carb before starting. Well, I guess 2 votes so far for removing the manual primer plumbing.

So far, I have not found any posted pictures. Is this feature available. One of the greatest benefits of a site like this is seeing the actual item being discussed. I hope this is soon activated.

My O-320 LongEz has a manual primer pump with lines going to cylinders 2 and 4. I can't remember the last time I even used the primer. I simply turn on the facet fuel pump until pressure registers, turn it off, switch on my electronic and magneto ignitions, press start and the engine fires on forst or second blade. Maybe it take 3 or 4 blades in the winter, but I always preheat. So...I'm thinking of removing the primer plumbing.

Thank you Jon for this effort. I can't even begin to imagine what you must have gone through to restart this forum. The more mediums for discussing all things canardian, the better. I look forward to frequent visits. --Jose

Strider, Thanks for making the Long Ez model for X-Plane available. Also, thanks for coming back online as I was beginning to loose hope that you were still active in this work. After 15 years + flying Cessna high wings, I found transitioning to the full scale Long Ez a bit of a challenge in the landing phase. Hard to overcome long time habits that do not relate well to the canard type. I don't have many hours in the type yet and can't yet access my plane conveniently. So, I'm interested in staying proficient by using X-Plane. At any rate, I agree that an innacurate simulator is worse than no simulator. That is why I was trying to contact you about the fidelity of your 8.40 Long Ez in x-plane version 8.6x. Do you think your 8.40 Long Ez has a good chance of passing the FAA simulator standards as is? I'm just starting with X-plane and don't yet have rudder pedals. However, the model seems to have a a trim issue. Am I missing something or does the model not have trim levers/controls?

I will have the same chore to do as my interior is covered with leather that has worn too much, faded and turned ratty. The heat gun is one idea for removal, but I worry that it would be too easy to melt the fibreglass/foam. Maybe it is not that much of an issue. I'll have to try it. What I was planning to do was to use a rubber eraser and rub it off. I've seen some power drill wheels in some tool catalogues designed to take rubber cement off car parts and they seem to be hard rubber erasers. If you get to try either method before I do, please post results.

My LongEz has the simple 4 point system. Two shoulder belts, joining tongue-in-slot in the middle of the lap belt. I like a tight seatbelt, but then I found I could not reach the fuel selector. So,I loosen them up a bit, but if too loose, the shoulder belt slipsoff the shoulder. I think I need a web across the chest to keep the shoulder belts from spreading apart. I've seen some pics of LongEzs with an inertial restraint system, probably adapted from a car. The 2 shoulder belts, join to the one belt retracting into the inertial reel. If I was building new, I would install an inertial reel. When I get thru other more pressing things on my punch list, I think I will eventually convert to an inertial system.

I want to practice landing the LongEz in X-plane before I start to actively fly my real LongEz. Is anyone using Strider's (Vigileance Aero) 8.40 Long-Ez with X-plane 8.6x?

I know that the long (performance) rudders are preferred in stronger crosswind landings and that they look better. I know that with effort the long rudders can be retrofitted. I have 2 questions concerning how much of a big issue this item should be to me: Would an original short ruddered LongEz be at a "significant" disadvantage compared to the long rudders? For example, can experience overcome the lesser performance rudders? All other details being equal, would a short ruddered EZ command a lower price?

By the way, I've tried emailing and calling "Covers by Dorothy" who is reported to make nice covers at a good price. However, phone and email don't work. The website is up (http://www.eracer.org/cover/index.html). Does anybody know if she still in business?

Hi Mark, $100 bucks and some sweat equity sounds great. How many yards do you think it'll take to make a cover? 6? It would be nice if there were some public domain patterns.

Ok, Jon, thanks. I think I'm going to look into this. For $39 bucks, on can't go wrong.