Neverquit

I pre-measured the roll and figured ACS shorted me about 10 feet on the roll. I called them and since they said the roll should have been enough they FedEx'd another 20 ft. to me the next day free of charge.

 

Here's a tip: If you have a step ladder you can put a stick through the roll and hang the roll between the legs of the ladder.

and about $75 - $100 for a repack.

Crap! I only got paid $10 a chute!

 

May be iffy but you might try your local skydiving center or club. You might be able to rent or borrow one from someone. Just a thought but there are some knuckle heads out there who might do it.

 

Hey! I did see one on Ebay last week! The ad said, "like new parachute, never opened, used only once.

That photo is my doing and was done purely as a joke.

Aw shucks Drew. You let it out. Its one of my favorites.

Well, I guess you guys don't understand my sense of humor then.

 

Um, make that a "you" instead.

 

What you have to understand is that most of us are either very busy building a plane or very busy flying and maintaining one we already built. We try to help each other out when we have problems we encounter.

I wish that were true sometimes. In defense of the noob, I find it difficult to get good answers here. My best resource has always been the archives. It goes back 20 years of "done that." My favorite answer from another forum was throwing out a new idea for defense against a gear up landing. The intelligent answer I received was, "let us know how it works when you land gear up". Steve, you'd be surprised how many members here haven't even bought the plans and they're still welcome. Our buddy Spod can attest to that. We'll keep em'.

Get in touch with this guy and ask him about his aircraft performance. I think you can get his email from Mark on the Cozy mailing list.

Not sure if shipping is affordable.

If that's what holding you back then you better think of another hobby. How do you think we get this stuff? Just as a reference, I bought a fuselage and misc. stuff weighing several hundred pounds from Utah to Michigan for about $350. It was 3 years ago but at least a ballpark range. Still a bargain at twice the shipping. I got Aerocad wings from Florida at half that cost for shipping. I'd say get a rough idea of the weight and size and call around. Don't go UPS. As a matter of fact I used Estes which I believe is in your area.

Veggie oil on strake tanks will not hurt the epoxy and smells like fried chicken when burned. I'd use Jeffco to line the tanks first if you're using any kind of methanol product.

 

I am still getting around 100% better milage with my Jetta than I did with my Jaguar XJ.

Chris, does lawyer = Jag and cop = Jetta?

Besiea = Bezier for us engineering types.

 

Thanks! Haven't used that word in 10 years since I got away from the tube (thank God). Surfaces, layers, point clouds...ahhhh:O

 

I thought the coordinates are supposed to represent the actual points along the duct. If so, then connecting the dots, and interpolating between them, should give the correct shape.

 

Here's some more NACA data to play with to hurt your brain.

NACA-RM-A9L29.pdf

Your numbers are good. I got the same thing. I think if you used besiea (bes-ee-ay) curve software it would smooth it out. Have you tried the M drawing curve to see how it matches up?

I re-watched the intake cooling forum download from the EZ org (CSA) website. I looked yesterday at my NACA scoop and realized how wrong it is. Not by the plans but by the builder and a little by the plans. After making my beautiful landing gear cover I realized now the ramp angle is 3 deg. then 7 deg. then 15 deg. Yuck! Three flat surfaces!

 

Here's a good cheat sheet I found on the web from an old article. TO NEW BUILDERS...It's okay if the ramp is a bit curved but as Gary Hertzler says, "NO BUMPS".

 

Gary shows a good example of bumps on the ramp by showing a belly NACA with a landing gear cover and flush screws. Go figure.

 

 

Cozy builders note to that website: the Cozy has a flat belly which won't show the same results with the oil test.

On chapter 7 I believe is when the NACA gets put on the bottom of the fuse. If anyone's there or remembers, can you tell me if the bottom of the NACA has a curve in it front to back or is it flat all the way to the firewall?

Rick, mine was so tight I had to grind off a little bit from the aluminum plate. They're made so exact I think they vary by how much flox you put on the back of the plates.

 

 

Drew, many of us use or have used the pizza wheel cutter. That only requires a dot here and there to align the yard (meter) stick for the guide. Have you tried the fine tip sharpie?

Not getting it. Is there suddenly a wave of canards putting on diesel engines? Aside from that, what's in biodiesel? Mike L. and I went to Rough River fly in with his Mercedes burning it all the way. It was nothing more than fryer drippings. I'm assuming animal fat and butter mostly.

I've been told all this time not to worry about methanol if I lined the tanks with Jeffco. We've been told that for 10 years now. What's the big deal?

You can paint it outside but of course off-airport. Solid colors do okay outside. Metallics are more difficult getting rid of the bugs. The morning theory is nice but from experience you have a very little window of opportunity. First the setup takes some time and you can't think of pulling it out until the dew is gone. If you're going white, no problem. The other hassle is getting a power supply for that compressor. If you want a paint job from a nail gun compressor. You'll get a nail gun paint job. Take Big Steve's advice. Put it on a trailer, wings off, and get a booth. Even better, get your favorite body shop painter shoot it for you. Guaranteed its worth every penny and you save a lot of time sanding and buffing out bugs and dust.

Wow, sucks to be him. I wonder if it was failure or forgetfulness?

"Tomorrow when this all cures and I peel off the mylar "

Sounds like its not supposed to Drew. But, to stay on the subject, why use mylar? Is that a plans step? Why not squeegee excess without it or at best, use 3 or 4 mil plastic then cover with peel ply? Mylar seems pricey but hey, you're building a pricey plane anyway.

I the the front looks shorter than Cozy length because its wider and rounder. Velos' use CF for strength with their doors. This reminds me of a fat SQ2000. I'll take the engine and prop. The rest is just too far out there in "iffy" land. No thanks.

Drew, if your bulkheads are the correct size then squeeze it in like Raiki says. If you have a heat gun clamp the whole thing up then hit the longerons with the heat gun. Make em' nice and warm. Not too hot to touch. This will temporarily soften the epoxy to give a little. Then they'll cool stronger and help keep the shape better. While you're at it, move the front seat back an inch or two for some leg room.

I can now say I'm an experienced builder so I'll give some good advice....

 

Step 5 in some cases micro can be used as a lighter alternative to flox. You can also use a precision Sharpie pen for step 2 and a precision hand saw for step 3.

 

There are no mistakes in composite building, only delays.

They don't stall either.

No need to wait Hennie. Grab some local aluminum and start making parts in between layup and foam times. That should keep you from pacing grooves in your carpet.

Anyone ever try this stuff at half the price?

 

http://www.jgreer.com/Foam%20Page.htm

Question from a total aircraft engine novice, is it okay to run the engine without a prop? Seems safer to make ajustments, etc. without that big chopper in the way.

Great shot Steve! I can relate. I got crap hanging all over the place in my little garage. Hey! Big Steve got tools!!! A reg-lar mosheen shop! (jealousy)