Jump to content

Neverquit

Verified Members
  • Posts

    257
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Neverquit

  1. Greetings Wells, from East Michigan.

    You are quite an optimist. So I've been told the best way to make a million is to start with two million and make airplane parts or start an airlne. Well, you're in auto central and we both know how that's going. So, I wish you all the luck.

     

    Bottom line is if you like doing crafts in a big way, this is it. You get to play wth all the different types of materials and be a mechanic, electrician, and fabricator. Its the best plans built go-fast plane on the market hands down.

  2. the hoop in between the two canopies really restricts the passenger's view

    Don't worry about the dogs or the luggage in the back. You'll be putting in a roll bar or something anyway, right? I read a lot about the big bubble expanding and contracting with the weather. I think a split in the middle helps control that. Either way, I put a bit larger rear windows in the back and there's lots of view. My kids will be playing on their laptops anyway.
  3. Well I hate to see it come to this, but this plane may need more than I am prepaired to do. It might be easyer to start from scratch and do a long.

     

    As Mark points out, it could be the photo or your sanding. Find an EAA expert in your area to look the plane over to build your confidence to move on. Making new aluminum plates and repairing that area or a few other areas is way easier than starting over.
  4. maybe someone should tell all the auto manufactures about that. is that why they don't use much chrome anymore.

    Naw, cause' its too expensive and too hazardous. Haven't seen a new chrome bumper for years.

     

    Dennis, if you need something polished though there's still a few around the Detroit area. You can send it to me and I'll oversee the job.

     

    Back to waterjet.....

  5. I hate to be the bringer of bad news but it appears we lost a good man and his plane yesterday. Just Google the crash for Calloway, KY.

    http://www.wreg.com/news/sns-ap-ky--smallplanecrash,0,1712171.story

     

    As a tribute to him and his just finished plane, here's some links.:

     

    http://www.airport-data.com/aircraft/photo/333539L.html

     

    http://wiki.velocityxl.com/index.php?title=Image:CIMG0131.jpg

     

     

     

    You can read his posts if you go to MichaelJ.

  6. From another thread:

    My original tank is for sale, I'm making a new rear seat tank (The old one won't fit now that I installed an oil heater in the thihgh support).

     

    Waiter, so why did you move the oil heater from the nose to the rear thigh support? It would seem better for the toes where you had it?
  7. if you have a old dry scrap, try looking under the layup.

     

    if you have a layup done on a scrap piece how do you look under it?

    on my seat back it looked like i had lots of air.

    it turned out to be epoxy bubbles.

     

    Steve, do your build in the proper order. The seat back layup is much easier outside the fuse. : ))
  8. To all Canardians and friends,

     

    Its with deepest sympathy I must say that the wife of Mike Skorija, aka "Dust", Lori Skorija and sister-in-law of Dave Clifford had passed away last evening. She had been battling cancer for over a year and a half.

     

    I had met her a few years ago and since I have never seen her not smile or have a kind word. Even up to her last days. We will miss her dearly.

     

    God be with her always,

    Greg Norman

  9. This has been discussed many times on the COZY mailing list and is in the archives. People think "Oooh, Lexan is bulletproof - it must be a good material for windows". But it's not - at least in this case. Especially for a window on the bottom of something that will have other crap put on top of it. Big mistake.

    I wouldn't say, "big mistake". I do live in detroit. :P Anyway, I'll have to be careful with my bulletproof windows getting scratched from carelessness. Otherwise they probably won't break in the even of an off-field landing and one less thing to fix.

     

    While I have Mark's attention, I've read some guys (not to say who) have gone as far as putting the strake windows in nearly full area size? This seems to me a bit risky with lots of untested loss of strength in that area. Has anyone seen this or know its safe to do?

  10. I always get a kick out of reading your posts Dennis.

    Likewise. He certainly is a silver forked tounged devil. ;) Thanks for reminding me Dennis... I have some turkey grease for you Mike.

     

    43 deg. in MX??? Who says its always hot there. Wow!

  11. Jack does some real impressive work. I've heard of some real history behind the old purple flamed (RIP) E-Racer. A few progressive engine mods. I even heard a rumor of a Supercharged Chevy or Buick motor at one time?

     

    Jack,

    Any interest in giving airplane finish and paint lessons?

  12. I've been keeping my progress to myself lately jumping from one thing to another. Can't say I'm at a particular chapter. But I just wanted to post something to show that some mods are easy, fast, and add a personal touch.

     

    This is certainly not my idea. But here's how I did it:

     

    Cut out the shape of hole you want. This one is almost 6 -12. Make it so there's remaining glass and foam around it to retain some original strength. I did mine when the strakes were upside-down. I reinforced around the area with 2 extra UND tapes and one extra BID reaching from bulkhead to fuse then from bulkhead to bulkhead. Not real science but comforting for me.

     

    I installed the 1/4 inch Lexan similar to the rear canopy windows. I sanded the lexan edge about 3/4 deep both sides (be sure to make the Lexan 3/4 in. larger than the opening around the perimeter) and added 1 layer of UND.

    I installed them in the cutout and filled the voids with flox. The Lexan is not as thick as the 3/8 strake surface so the flox is feathered to the edges. You might get away with micro as well but I think the flox will be better to bond the outside glass to the inside. I didn't save the perimeter cutout like the plans canopy windows. Instead I added 1 inch then 2 inch BID tape around the perimeter and peel plied on the inside. I added weights to the windows to get a good close bond to the outside of the strake.

     

    This whole project took me about 5 hours to do both sides. The most difficult was digging out that foam for the bottom flange.

    post-672-141090171762_thumb.jpg

    post-672-141090171776_thumb.jpg

    post-672-141090171788_thumb.jpg

  13. I didnt hear the scotch tape/ nose strut one. That is how I held the washers on my pivot. Is that what you are referring to? That noselift assembly is a bugger to get in for me.

    Likewise. Yep!

     

    I put tape on the tiny washers a pair at a time while on the table edge-to-edge. While the canard was upside down with the elevator in place and ready, I draped the two washers over the elevator brackets (plates? L-shaped things) to dangle them in place on each side lined up with the holes.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information