TES111

I recently replaced the water pump in my volvo. One week later the replacement pump failed. No problem I'll just take it back and get another one. So went back to my auto supply store and got another pump. Two weeks later and the damn thing failed again. Went to volvo this time and got a brand new pump and replaced it for a third time. Pump worked great. Hose failure this time. I know that they recomend replacing all the radiator hoses but I did not do this as my car only had 100k miles on it. Sound like alot of miles? My Volvo prior to this one had 300k with no problems. So I replaced my hoses on my radiator as recomened as well as replacing the thermostat. This time the heater core hose burst. These hoses were not recomended to be replaced and the guy at the Volvo dealer parts counter was shocked that this one had failed. Needless to say I had to replace the heater core hoses as well. Total antifreeze; about ten containers worth. I replaced my wifes water pump on her car and no problems at all. My point being is that this sort of problem is ok when your on the ground. Little disconcerting, but never the less you can get home eventually with a little sweat equity. What happens when your at 15k feet? Are there metal tubes to replace typical rubber hoses for auto conversions? Do the rubber hoses expand at altitude like the patatoe chip bags did on your last commercial flight? Does this cause them to burst prematurly? I have kicked around the idea of a mazda engine but have really been turned off buy this experience. Do the rotary engines do well with out coolant? Will it run long enough to get you down safely?

Does anyone have a ball park figure for thrust on a 200 horse lyco w/ a 3 blade prop set for cruise? Dust I know your going w/ a 200 horse set up. I know thats alot of specy info w/ alot of variables to include but it does not need to be exact. Is 300 LB of thrust a close figure or will it be alot higher than that? Just curious. TES111

Sorry John. Thanks Wayne. I am realizing that i'm going to have to do some serious digging to see if its ging to be a huge ordeal. So...off to the pros I gos.

Thanks Dust. I am fearless and will do alot more research. Fourtunatley Ga. Tech is just down the road from my office. I'll go and bug them

Once again has anyone used carbon fiber before. Not on an R/C but on something of this nature and scale. How difficult would it be to make a carbon fiber spar? Or am I simply asking a question that cannot be answered here? I dont want to start a mud slinger about wether retracts are a good idea. It is something that I want on my plane. Aerocad sells an RG model. Are they that different structurally? It seems to me that they are the same airplane. As far as tapping into the saftey margin is concerned thats why I want to build a much stronger spar. Oh thanks for the update John. I had not viewed the members tab:rolleyes: DOH;) I agree ekisbey if there is not one flying I dont want to chance weakening the spar w/ an RG system. So in order to remove the guess factor I would like to build a stronger spar if it is infact not to terribly dificult to do. From what I ve read so far you would build a mold fill it with uni carbon strand, wet it out and viola... carbon fiber spar. I just want to know what the process is and perameters for cure. ie special equipment, tension, vacum bagging. in other words what kinda monster am I creating and should I squash the idea now instead of later.

Well John How do I get in touch, DOH. How can I contact the Cozy Girls? SUPPOSED to flex and transfer load to the rest of the structure. People have built carbon fiber landing gears for fixed gear applications. Even on R/C air planes. I understand that things need to give a little or they eventually develop stress cracks. If you can create enough stress. I just dont want a spar in a plane that wasnt designed to handle the load. I seriously doubt that anyone has hired a structural engy to test this yet, or perhaps aerospace has. Dont know. I would prefer an over built spar that is lighter than a spar that is built to its (possible) limitations. I would hate to think of what may happen if there were an air bubble at the wrong spot or if i had not gotten all the resin out that I could have. I am not nor will I be an experienced composite builder after only doing it once. I guess what I am saying is that an over built part is better. Assuming that it is the same dimensionally and can be made to be lighter than the plans method. I simply dont want to be anyones test bed when the questions is...can the plans spar handel the stress of the retract system?. Back to the question... has anyone worked with this stuff before and how difficult is it to get a proper lay up?

Thanks Mike. Still looking for anyone that may have toyed around with this stuff. Any takers?

I am strongly considering a retract system from infinity aerospace. I know that phillip Johnson has installed this system in his cozy. My only concern is that (I remember reading somewhere) there was a degreee of roll in the spar on landings. Comments on this issue were "that it was not an issue". I know that was a quote but don't quote me verbatim. My question is.... can you beef up the spar and keep its relative dimensions the same? I know that carbon fiber is stronger and lighter. Therefore a Newbie/wannabe builder would assume that you could use a fair amount of carbon fiber weave to keep the same dimensions of the (plans) spar and infact strengthen it as well. Is this stuff impossible to work with or just very difficult in the home environment? I went to Aircraft spruce and they have it denoted as "difficult". Has anyone used this before? Would it be a stonger spar? Could you simply substitute a layer of glass with carbon? Just another wacky idea TES111:confused:

Mike, Your such a sweet heart:D Look, its up to you what you read. Instead of having a newbie section, have a builder section that newbies can just pop in and ask a question or two? Wait... is that to close to what this forum is already about? On a more serious note. I honestly think that the best way for us newbies to learn is by visiting cozy builder sites. However, not every builder has the means or patience to have a one. So I think Mike has A valid point. I am starting to see more clearly what he wants. Less cluter and B.S. and More builder talk. Understandable. But instead of calling it "newbie section", call it the "Think Tank". You know, an honest brain storming section. So that the builders who don't mind entertaining crazy ideas can participate. Those that do not want to view such foolishness don't have to bother themselves. I think that it would get all those pesky dreamers outta dust's dusty hair. Maybe you could start a double secret builder forum with a password and a secret handshake. Dont take that to heart dust Im just kidding. Or maybe just a links section. You know, helpful sites about engine data, panel design, retracts and instumentation. So that the usual questions don,t get to repetitave. Just my opinion take it for what its worth TES111

The ARNAV ICDS 2000 PFD is a top-of-the-line Electronic Flight Instrumentation System (EFIS) for experimental aircraft. The large, bright display includes engine power indicators, EHSI, Flight Director/Flight Advisor, and VOR/GPS/ILS coupled navigation displays including Glide Slope. The PFD provides predictive data in terms of position, energy and time and also displays airframe configuration data. It provides a wide range of fault detection alerts, and full integration with the ICDS 2000 MFD and engine systems already available. The display consists of a HUGE and extremely sharp 10.4 inch screen that has to be seen to believed. It stands 8.25 inches high but is only 4.37 inches deep. The ICDS 2000 integrated cockpit display system takes center stage as the visual focus point on any aircraft and was standard equipment on the Cirrus SR20 and SR22. It can integrate optional applications anytime you need them, like WxLink,™ a breakthrough in cockpit weather delivery or Stormscope,© lightning detection. Window-in conflict alerts, such as ground proximity, air traffic or engine information is available. Specifications: Display Type: AMLCD (10.4" Diagonal Size) Height: 8.25" Width: 11.50" ( "Double Dzus" ) Depth: 4.37" Weight: 8.8 lb. Input Voltage: 10-35 VDC, unregulated, positive polarity Power Consumption: 50 watts Operating Temperature: -20C to +70C Storage Temperature: -40C to +80C Serial I/O (Bi-directional) : 7 RS-232, (4 convert to RS-422) Signal Inputs: 8 discretes, 4 pulse counters, 14 differential analog channels, 8 single ended analog channels, keyboard input, NTSC video (optional). Signal Outputs 16 discretes, 1 audio channel, CDI and flags, Glidslope Indicator and flags. HOT TIP! The ARNAV ICDS 200 is an outstanding system. We currently have a few "New Surplus" units at less than 50% OFF! If you're building a kit the ICDS-2000 at this low price is the system to get! ... Jim ARNAV ICDS 2000 P/N 453-0550-00 (New Surplus) Reg..... $ 12,995 ... Special..... $ 6,389 (Very Limited Supply) Click Here to Order Your reply says display only. Mine does not.

Just out of complete ignorance, how much would it cost to Ifr a plane with a fairly modern stack and moving map gps? I'm seeing a efis system for 12K? Why wouldnt you just buy that? What am I missing here? http://www.avionix.com/efis.html

As I stated earlier I am not an electrician nor am I familiar with aircraft electrical systems. I am now realizing that Large, Mike and Mr Slade are closer to being on the mark. Chuck I am expressedly sorry if I offended you in any way. I just know my wife as well as my self. Suiting up is not an option. Not to say that it is a bad idea. It certainly seems like the quickest most cost effective way to solve the problem. I am a tinkering type of personality (jet engine builder) and cant help to think about a push button vs. plug in type of heating system. Thats why I think this forum helps any many ways. It definatley gives us BWB (builder wanna bes) a Much more clear picture as to what we can use in a homebuilt experimental plane. It puts people like me in close contact with people like you. The type of people that have dared to build a plane in thier homes and fly them. Despite all of my wacky ideas. I have the utmost addoration and respect to all those that have accomplished more than I have. I can only hope to improve upon your ideas to help push project builders to improve upon my concepts and experimentation. Good luck all and good weather flying. TES111

Noodles, It is expensive but if you are going to IFR a plane whats an extra 5K. I knowits for info porouses only but what a stack of options. Man this has all the bells and whistles. Terrain, weather, Indicated vs. optimal heading, obstruction, E-mail, approach charts, moving map, speed. All this @ the finger tips. Wow. It will Definately give you the big picture. My only concerns are why don't they have a bigger screen? How reliable is the info that you get? Obviously terrain is static. Weather and approach info is the most important to me as well as moving map accuarcy. Has any one seen the console of the new cessna mustang jet? Another big WOW! Single monitor for all instruments and non windows based operating system. How much does one of those cost?

I think Mike is right just beef up the current system. Remember.... K.I.S.S.

Just out of curiosity how much would 4 suits weigh in at? 10 pounds? How much space would they take up if you were to take them off @ customs check in Florida?

Draw is 3 amps @ 110v (total). the idea behind the radiant floor system is that the gyp. crete acts as a radiator. Therfore you do not need alot of current the wire temp heats the surrounding gyp. to a reasonable temperature. 700 watts? Difficult to install? You simply put it on the floor and cover it with gyp. crete. Break out you measuring tape. 1/4" is thin. the radiant system is very thin maybe a 1/16" thick. So your looking @ 9/16" for overall thickness. I,m not suggesting you cover the entire interior of the plane with stuff. Maybe the arm rests and foot areas? The jacket liner at full power draws 77 watts. 6 amps and change. socks draw 22 watts full power. Not even 2 amps ------------------------------------------------------------------- Total amps of Clothing =7+ amps vs. Total amps of radiant system no matter how many sq. ft. you decide to install =3 amps Hmmm:confused: Im doing the math but my numbers seem funny:) As far as having to convince everyone that we are simply going on a ride in my plane not competeing in the iditarod, That seems silly. Just doesnt seem like its the best way to do it. Somebody out there has a working light weight system. What is it? I am not so conceited that I have to be right on this issue and admit it does sound silly. Maybe it will work. Maybe not. But there has to be a better route than saying "here, put on you electric suit dear." "No you look sexy, Thier not laughing at us." Don't let my wife see this or Cozy funding is out of the question and hello spam can with a waggly front wheel. For those of you that maybe interested. I will build a sample and post a weight. I will also re-confirm the 3 amps is for the total draw. It would be nice to have a heated seat at least Roasting chestnuts on a heated seat:D Experiment: Get a 9 volt battery and connect the two poles (+) (-) with a 16 ga. wire. that is 6" long. Same principal. Imagine 110 volt system. Sorry if we have highjacked this thread. TES111

As soon as the builder gets over to my in-laws with the materials, I am going to have them pour a 1 ft. sq. sample with all materials. i want to verify actual weight. As soon as I get it on a scale I will let you guys know.

Thanks for the advice guys.

Well? As far a shorting out- It is designed to work well in bathrooms. Including showers. I do not think it will short out. As far as the pound per Sq. Ft.- I am sure that it actually weighs less than a pound. I was over exaggerating the for "worst case" purposes. If you know of a "Turbocharged wonder motor from Japan." please do tell us were you got it. I would love to put one in my Cozy. Right now the only engine I have is the jet engine that I built. However it does not make its own fuel. Thanks for the gripe. I love to hear from actual builders on my crazy ideas for heating an airplane. TES111

Thanks Wayne! How does this effect a person that buys a project that is nearly completed?

Hey Dust & Turtle, I first wanna say what an fantastic idea to hack up your floor and move the fuselage out that way. I never would have thought to have done that had I not been able to view this forum as a tier 3 wanna be builder that is having fun with thoughts on what could be done. What about the guy without a garage who thought he never could have done that either? I love the picks! Marble Turtle did you ever find that guys name and number? You know the one. The guy whos plane you literaly fell into as I recall. Did you guys just wake up one morning and decide to build a canard pusher without speaking to anyone? What made you decide to build a pusher canard? (This excludes you mr. slade) "Everyone gains by mixing the three types you mention" What a great place! A builder wanna be (BWB) that can actually ask tier 1 and tier 2 elitest like yourselves on how I could possibly do something differently than the guy/girl before me. By the way did you hear the "New" post on www.cozyaircraft.com? The one that says "April 2003 interview"? Listen to it! It has Mr. Puffer explaing how he modified Rutan plans with out permission. And how Rutan was a bit miffed at how somebody was modifiying his plans. That is untill he had a better Idea about what Nat was doing. Mr. turbo! Where would you fall into this forum? Each chapter is a different part of your life. Considering how long it takes to build. You have the "know-how" on many of the chapters but you have not yet experienced the engine portion. You do have an idea on what you want to do. But has anyone done it? Are you a Tier 1 2 or 3 on that aspect? In all fairness you did say that it could not be done. "I know it can't be done, but just a thought." I feel you are completely correct about the "can't be done part". What do you mean buy just a thought? Think about how that makes someone in my shoes feel when they read something like this. Are SOME cozy builders reluctant to contribute once they have reached a certain stage in thier project? Is this the builder support that is referenced @ the home page? "stupid people from posting." Hey MarbleTurtle how stupid did you feel when you slipped on that guys Cozy trying to get in it? I would rather slip here first. How about you? Why don't you mention your experience with the guy @ Atlanta Motor Speedway. Liabilty ring a bell? Just thought I would remind you. As far as this unqualified non plan owner is concerned. I happen to work @ an architecture firm and am not stupid just because I have not started the build. Ideas are just that, ideas. And anyone can come up with an idea that could possibly help you, belive that or not. Has Burt Rutan ever built a Cozy? I'm sure he could teach you a thing or two. Look, I know I seem a wee bit pissed. The entire reason that this forum is here is to bring people like me and people like you togethter. To help us make the decision that you made for what ever reason it is that you made it. You want to express your progress and experince in your project? The best place to do that is in a builders web page. Believe me for those of us that are truely interested we read them several times front to back. If you want more info from builders on what they have done, then jump on them or yourself for not having or haveing an up to date builders page. That may eleminate alot of the "stupid" questions that are asked here . (Back to the we read them front to back portion of my rant) Do you remember how you felt when you were trying to convince your wife or whomever to build this plane. Do you remeber when you did not own plans? My point simply put is that we all start somewhere. To exclude or classify someones post based on experince of a Cozy build is not possible. Why not get all your kooky ideas out of your head by asking those who have passed before you. We can all contribute/ learn in some way. Even if it means acting as a slave on another portion of either of your projects Mike. Abuse the Newbies! PLEASE! All we want to do is learn. Just like you Bud. I must say that I would love the experience of helping a tier 1,2 or 3 builder like yourself. Could you Imagine how many Cozies would have ever gotten off the ground had Mr. Puffer ever taken this attitude? let me give you an idea. One! Not the second one he built to make the plans from. Better yet ,had he not ever thought to modify something at all. None of us would be here today pissing and moaning. Cheers to Mr. Nat Puffer Someone who does not mind passing on his experience and dealing with the 1,000 (plus) newbies that have asked him 10,000 (plus) rediculous questions as potential plans owners, but are now flying! Happiest regards on your 80 + years of life Bud

wire temp is 120 deg. The weight is next to nothing. per sq ft is best geuss an 1/2 oz. If that. However they recomend 1/4" light weight gypsum to cover the heating element as this acts as your radiator. So my best guess @ a combined weight per complete sq ft. would be a pound. lets say you just do the floor area in the plane. That area is lets say 25 sq. ft. 25 sq ft. x 34 BTU per sq.ft.= 850 BTU's of cabin heat @ a weight gain of 25 lbs. If you incorporate the fuselage as a whole who knows what you could accomplish BTU wise. Is this to much draw on the elctrical system? Don't know as I am not an electrician and not very knowlagable about aircraft electrical systems. As far as the temperature of the light weight gyp crete at full temp dont know. However it is not designed to make you instantly start thinking "hot feet, hot feet" when you walk into your bath room. So I don't suspect that it will cause damage to your plane Speed gains might be possible as well. Do you not need additional ducting on the exterior for heated air systems? Dont know this one either as I have not yet built my Cozy.

10 watts per sq ft./ 34 BTU's per sq. ft./ draw is 3 amps @ 110v/ cost for a roll of 48 sq ft. is $600.00 U.S. They have used these in boats and RV's before.

I was @ the in-laws house this weekend and they are remodeling thier bathroom. He showed me what they had in store for the heating of the new edition. http://www.warmlyyours.com/ Would something like this work? I don't know at this point. I'm wating to hear back from the Sales weasle on specs for current draw ect. ect. If it is to much draw than they do have water based radiant heating systems. Mayybe you could hook it up to the exhaust and pump it some how. Just a thought. Tes111

Wayne, How do you go about getting a repairman cert. ? Can I go ahead and start doing what ever it takes to get certificate now? Or is it specific to your plane?