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CBarber

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  1. This shows how the rotor moves along the medium street port. The medium street port should help us achieve 200hp N/A. We are using the Mistral Intake and hope to turbo normalize down the road. That is Blaine Streeter on the left and my best friend Russell Brown on the right. I have known Russ since he was 17. He will be 40 this September. Geesh, where does the time go? We started the build, however, we had some real issues with the suggested product called Hylomar. It is used to help hold the O-rings in the grooves while under construction. The manuals do not mention its use, however, it has become somewhat standard for rotary builds. I ordered mine with the engine parts, but the tube I got must have been super old as it was not in a very useable condidtion. We used it a bit on the front housing, but it was causing WAAAAY more problems. As mentioned, its only real purpose is to hold the O-rings when holding the plates upside down during assembly. Since it does act as a sealent many will apply it aroudn the rotor housings and a couple of other places to potentially aid sealing. Since we were having such problems with the Hylomar we decided to stop for the night and I would research and try to find more Hylomar. I wrapped what we had done and called it a night. I went to seven different auto parts stores and could not find any Hylomar locally (heck, Houston is the nations forth larges city). I went to the Hylomar site and it states there is a shortage in the US and to expect about a three week delay. Geesh. Permatex use to supply it as did Locktite, but apparantly both have ceased production. Anyway, after asking about it on the Flyrotary.com web site I determined Hylomar is much more trouble than it was worth.....so, in later updates we used petroleum jelly to keep the O-rings in and are happy with the results. Actually, the petroleum jelly is used to hold in many parts, such as the side seals etc during assembly. For those of you who may not know, the Vasoline will burn off when the engine is started. You can see some of the Vasoline on the rotors in these pictures. More pix to come, but it is late.
  2. The front plate is mounted to the engine stand with an adapter for the rotary I made. You can see the front stationary gears mounted in the center of the front plate. You can also see the nice port Mazdatrix added. The front rotar is added and the front rotor housing is placed on the front plate. The side seals, oil seals etc were already added to the rotars and placed in position as a unit. The apex seals and there springs will be illustrated later. It still amazes me how the rotars actually move in the housings. Wow, Dr. Wankle is to be commended.
  3. More pix. I like the Blue and Gold together. They are my fraternity, Sigma Chi colors as well as the traditional colors of Law Enforcment and the Legal profession. If you remember, I am a lawyer and also became a cop three years ago.......but mainly, I think blue and gold is "pretty":) The notebook computer is playing Bruce Turrentines 13b re-build video. Blaine is adding sealant to the "legs" of the front iron.
  4. Long stroy; short.....kinda Well, as some of y'all know, we rebuilt our original rotary from the parts we got from three e-bay 13b turbos. They came as a package, all three for $750.00. Dave Staten and I rebuilt it back around Thanksgiving of '04 and kept it stowed while working on the airframe. I got it running on May 30, 2007. I had run it about 8 hours, sending in the Real World Solutions engine computer for a couple of upgrads, running wires and improving systems over the past several monts....also, broke up with my S/O after ten years and got a bit side tracked in my build by the dating process The engine was becoming increasingly harder to start. Hmmmmm. Last month at the EAA; Houston chapter meeting I found out why. I had noticed a small coolant leak earlier in the day and resolved to find it later. At the meeting an RV-10 builder friend noticed a small amount of coolant on the exhaust pipe.....uh, oh. I think I know what that means. Sure enough, I pulled the plugs and there was coolant on the plugs. DOH! Yep, coolant was in the combustion area. I turned the prop by hand without the plugs in and shot coolant 3/4 way down my port wing. Damn, damn, damn. Ok, take a breath. The engine has to come apart. It was actually pretty easy. I have learned much about my engine and systems over the last few years. I knew I would have to replace the sealing O-rings, so I ordered a set from Pineapple Racing in OR. They insist they are extra heavy duty...well see. Upon inspection of the engine all the major pieces seemed ok. The all seemed well within specs. They really were not as good as I wanted, but ok. I thought about replacing the rotor housing with new due to some pitting in the water channels, but I did not want to wait for them to ship. While apart I decided to go ahead and port the engine to a medium street port. It all went well until I used the wrong portion of the template on the intermediate housing and ground off too much metal and thus now had a nice boat anchor. We think the reason we had a failure was that when we first got the engine started, we (meaning ME) allowed it to get way too hot. My temp gage was not working right and we are unsure how hot it really got. This is known to cause the O-rings to fail. Also, when it gets really hot the rotor housings can shrink causing problems. I also must admit that i was so thrilled to actually get it running at first I got distracted, thus not really paying enough attention to the temp. Silly, but accurate....and a bit expensive:o Anyway, since I trashed the intermediate housing, I decided to buy a new one, since I was gonna have to wait for it to arrive, I also choose to get new rotor housings. While on the phone ordering from Mazdatrix I figured why replace three of five MAJOR parts.....so, I went ahead and ordered the two end housing too......all ported to a medium street port by the pro's at Mazdatrix. Got all the new parts in last Saturday and over the last week I have made my aviation specific mods. Today, my best friend, Russell and I (with some help from my close friend and mechanical engineer Blaine, who owns a company that supplies A/C systems to the likes of Cirrus, Moony, Cessna/Columbia, Eclipse etc) finished the build. For those interested, I will be posting some pictures of the build. All the best, Chris
  5. That is my understanding as well.
  6. Don't know about the typical Cozy builder, but I used Jeffco in my Velocity SE.
  7. As tends to happen, since I am building, I do not get to the forums as routinely as I may like. I am currently rebuilding my rotary 13b with mostly new parts (both rotor housings and all end plates ported to a medium street port). My first rebuild had some issues and when I tore it down I screwed up and ruined a part (intermedieate plate for those in the know), so, on kinda a wild hair, instead of finding more used parts, I bought new. Figure that $2500.00 is really not all that much for pretty much a new engine. That being said, I am building a Velo SE. I am in Houston, Texas so any folks that feel it is close enough are welcome to come down to Ellington Field (Houston's third big airport) and check out my project. The strakes are designed for soft luggage and while not huge seem to be very adequate for the task. There is a little room behind the rear seat but is is not much. My rear seats do not slide. I think that is a newer standard feature (my kit was delivered in 2002. There is also a little room under the rear seats as well. It is a SE=Standared Elite. Standard meaning it is not the XL; Elite meaning it has the gull wing doors. Mine is a fixed gear. If memorty serves, the XL is 10 inches longer and 5.5 inches wider. the wider is mostly good for elbow room. I am sure the strake area is larger as well due to the larger wing/strake. Velocity also offers a split seat (40/60 IIRC) option for the XL. The SE has similiar deminsions to a Bonanza, Cessna 182, the Travel-air twin etc. That is 42 inches wide. Most/all 4 place planes are limited in storage and weight. I do not foresee most my trips will be more than two persons, however, for the the times I do carry more I am certain it can be done....with aviation appropriate limitations. To me the SE gives MUCH more bang for the buck. Not only did it cost $10K less than an XL for the slow build kit, it should be MUCH cheaper down the road too. Don't get me wrong, an XL would be sweet, but the reality is the SE provides MOST of the benifits of a 4 person canard. Viva Velocity and Cozy! All the best, Christopher Barber Houston, Texas www.LoneStarVelocity.com
  8. If you happen to make it down to Houston, feel free to call upon me. I am building a Velocity SE at Ellington Field and even though not identical birds the build process it greatly the same. Check out my web site at www.LoneStarVelocity.com . The page has not been updated in over a year, but most of the airframe progress is there. The newer stuff is mostly about wiring and engine related (Mazda 13b) nad not as condusive to photographs (plus my web disign tool is a bit tedious and combersome). I think you will find building in the Texas heat actually helps a bit. That being said, I did not use the MGS but the kit supplied Velocipoxy (Velo's brand of EZpoxy, IIRC....something about the mass purchase of the EZpoxy needing them to "rebrand" it). As you may know, the Velocity is a kit thus I took what they gave me. On that note, Velocity has been a great company to deal with. I am happy that when I had some cash fall out of the sky a few years ago, I bought the kit before I did something STOOOOPID with it like pay bills or put it in savings <g>. I attended the Sport Air workshop in Dallas a few months before the delivery of my kit and I thought it was a GREAT first exposure to fiberglass. Many here will probably state it is not needed as all the instructions are in the plans, HOWEVER, for me, I really appreciated the hands on expsure IMAO, rarely does the written word surplant hands on experience. While very rudimentary, it gave me the extra confidence (notice I said "extra" confidence....the weak willed are not the type to build planes <g>) I needed to dive into the project. Now, I feel as if I could build dang near anything with fiberglass.......hmmmmm, Speed Racer's Mach V comes to mind....hmmmm? Welcome, good luck and keep us posted. All the best, Chris Barber
  9. Marc, Here is a link to Al's website. http://members.cox.net/alg3/airplane.htm As stated, he is running a 20b in his standard Velocity retract. His site shows his dyno runs and other tech stuff you may appreciate. I met Al at the Velocity Symposium held north of Dallas in Feb of 2006. Solid character, clear thinker and nice guy. At the time he was having trouble with his install in the form of expensive insurance. I believe he finally found some insurance he could live with. Also, Al is active on the Flyrotary.com list. He too is an engineer and tends to document his progress and events well. FWIW. I believe that Greg Richter's bird was a 13b turbo. IIRC, maybe from Mr. Slade's site, that Greg liked his rotary and would have stayed with it if he didn't want to go the jet route. In any case, I am stilll churning away on my 13b install on my Velocity down here in Houston. As always, thanks for the clear analysis....even if it is not always in accord with my pursuits. <g> All the best, Chris Barber Houston
  10. Gotta chime in here. IIRC the issue that was driving Bully nuts for quite a while and documented pretty well on the rotary aviation forums, most notably I believe "Fly Rotary" was a wiring issue where he RE-WIRED his Program Control Module (PCM) from its factory (Tracy's factory) to make it fit just where the canopy closes. Then he kept having wiring issues that were affecting his engine runs. After what seemed like months of frustration he decided to change to a lyc....again, IIRC, he then discovered the problem was that where he placed the re-wired PCM was being interferrd with by the opening an closing of the canopy, thus an inconsistant problem. So, as it turned out, not only did he re-wire the unit, he placed it in a physical location that was having a separate and independant action on that part causing the dreaded "intermentant failure" I don't really see how the rotary is to blame here as the same issue could have happened with any engine type. Now, that being said I do not discount the other frustrations he may have had with the install that may have led to the final wire issue being the last straw. A real pity. I remember how heart sunk I felt when I learned of his decission. Finally, in the desire for full disclosure (lawyer thing), I am currently working on my rotary install and am having some definate teething pains. I just got my ECU and EM back from Tracy and I can't seem to get the damn thing to run.....seems to almost want to start, but just won't quite do so...or it will start for a minute, die and then not restart. AAAAAAGGGGH. To be fair though I have only had the unit back a few days and due to the "dating thing" have not had too much dedicated time to check some basic stuff like to verify the timing, check the plugs (the sparks are sparking and the injectors are chirping away while in test mode though....so sparkd and fuel and air are all check) etc. But, ya know, it is still moslty fun, even if I would kill to get past this current (and longest lived) frustration. If I had a load of money fall out of the sky I am not sure what I would do.....Lyc or some real serious considerationm to the Mistral. I really like the rotary concept and now have some serious cash (over a few years) "invested?????" in the project. FWIW. All the best, Chris Barber
  11. OMG, I AM SHOCKED!!!! A discussion on a topic supported by solid documented research and testing. What is this forum coming to? All the best, Chris
  12. Sounds fun. I wish my Velocity was flying, but alas, I am still building (currently working on the rotary engine install). If all goes well, I should be out at the hangar later today. Please keep us posted. Who knows, if TV takes a while to shoot, maybe I will be flying before your need:cool: You also may wish to contact the Velocity Aircraft factory as they are knowledgable and may be the only established canard kit producer (another company - Aerocanard is out there too, but not as well established IIRC). Velocity Inc has always been very helpful and willing to share information and can give you a solid view of the community and aircraft type including their flight testing program and development trails such as flat stalls problem solving and their VERY fast "Turbo Charlie" aircraft . Reach them at www.VelocityAircraft.com All the best, Chris
  13. Hey, HEY!!! whatch the spoilers. I have this episode "Tivo'ed" waiting for the oportunity to watch it. I don't really care about complete scientific method....well, to a point. It is too damn fun to watch Jamie and Adam make good attemps. I feel like I am right there with 'em and just having fun with the process. I am really wanting to watch this episode since it is so plane focused. FWIW All the best, Chris
  14. Yup. Also, as has been mentioned, can you really blame IVO for mis-use of their product (yeah, I know, that statement coming from an attorney may seem somewhat shocking ) All the best, Chris
  15. I think they say it will be available next year.....one year they will be right. Sorry, couldn't resist. All the best, Chris
  16. No, the engine itself has three moving parts. The PSRU is separate and is needed on other auto conversions as well. Agreed, they are not needed on most aircraft engines. Also agreed that for me, I do kinda count the PSRU as part of the "core" engine and everything else such as alternators, starters etc hang off the two. My PSRU from RWS does not have many parts...your quess, I beleive, is in the ball part. Still less than a "banger" engine. All the best, Chris
  17. I too have the inflight adjustable IVO three blade prob mounted on the back of my RWS PSRU/Rotary. I am just not flying yet <g>. I am in the development stages of a running engine and have even taxied around a bit. All the best, Chris
  18. 50% INCREASE IN FUEL COMSUMPTION???? I have not heard that number thrown around before. I am not trying to say the 13b/Reneses (or even the hoped for 16b) is or will be the ultimate engine....even though I have chosen to use the 13b (eventually to be turbo'ed, if all works out) in my Velocity. I do recall that 13b may have a slight fuel disadvantage depending on use. Something like, IIRC, .45 to .47 fuel usage between the Lyc 360 and 13b (sorry, I don't recall exactly what the unit of consumption is...I am on vacation in WY and have been out of the loop). I would not imagine that would translate to a 50% increase in fuel usage. Where did you come across that tidbit of info? But, of course, I could be wrong. All the best, Chris
  19. Hmmmm, what would I change....I would have started sooner so I was actually flying now instead of still building. I too want to know some of these answers. The two times I have flown in a Velo it was such a thrill that some of the basics became secondary. It was smooth and seemingly easy to fly, but it was nice cool weather both times on really clear days. You may want to go to www.tvbf.org and get on the builder/ownerkl/flyer email list. They will be better able to answere your specific questions. Oh well, bac, to engine developement and shakedown. All the best, Chris
  20. Wow, are you kidding. Don't know enough about it to even consider it, but I have got to say, I love my Jetta TDI. 40 ish miles to the bio-diesel gallon just makes me feel smug all over (Silly Hybrid drivers). Like my rotary, but I would really like a viable diesel as well. Do you have any links so I may get lost in the internet gaining info I will likely never use or need ????? All the best, Chris
  21. Saw this at the Wings over Houston Airshow this weekend. They had a flying model (1/10 scale as well as a 1/4 scale) and a full size simulator using X-Plane with three projectors. It was fun.....Pretty darn ambitious though. http://www.labicheaerospace.com/
  22. Well, if you make it to Houston, I will be happy to show you around my Velocity project.....may be a bit too far outside your range. I am sure there are some builders in the DFW area. All the best, Chris
  23. I am assuming that your mount for the Cozy will also fit a Velocity. I already have the CC mount, but ya never know, plus I have Velo friends. Thanks. All the best, Chris
  24. What a load of garbage. A few can't play well together so the entire site is shut down to the detriment of all those who can get along and just ignored or were amused by the absurdity. Geeeeeeesh. Chris
  25. My friend Robin Ream, well, I have never met him, but email and like minded dreams create a friendly bonding across the digital existence (currently residing in San Antonio Texas, but preparing to move due to wife's military career) is putting his Velocity SUV (SUV No. Serial No 109, the single gull door Velocity which can easily be converted to a two door SE) up for sale. The kit is exactly as delivered 8 years ago (with the addition of medium blue upholstery on the seats). I am thinking it is the slow build version since fast build adds about $18k to the base price. He is asking pretty much what he paid for it back in the day of $20,000.00 (the 1999 intro price was $19,950, iirc, plus a couple of K shipping). Also, he is selling his Bruce Turrentine rebuilt Mazda 20b rotary along with a RWS (Tracy Crooks company) ECU and re-drive. He does not have the EMU. The engine is pickled. He paid about $7500.00 for the 20b from Bruce back in the day. The ECU goes for about $1k and the re drive about $3k. He is asking $11,500 for the engine package. I don't know what a good clean 20b goes for now, but I do know back when I was first looking at the rotary I found a couple of Mazda Cosmo "front clips" for between $4500 and $6500 online. Robin's S/O new duty station does not have anyplace to store the kit/engine and Robin has not found the time to build in 8 years...school, career building et al. So, he has come to the conclusion it is not gonna happen for him. Robin's phone number for the next couple of weeks is 210-490-9490 and his cell (which should not change) is 210-379-3885. He email is rream@satx.rr.com All the best, Chris
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