John Slade

Fred Breese of Conversion Concepts, Inc. http://www.conversionconcepts.com now offers a production mount for RVs. He's working on one for a Cozy IV. The only item missing from a firewall backward 13B solution for Cozy's will then be an intake system. I know of one vendor who's working on this, but is not ready to announce it yet.

I just saw the following on another list....... I heard a similar story from another Warnke customer. CONSIDERING A WARNKE PROP ? I urge you to reconsider I ordered a prop from Margie Warnke on 10/09/01. I was promised delivery in 12 weeks. I made a special point of asking will I really have the prop in 12 weeks because my airplane was grounded in the mean time. I was assured I would have it in 12 weeks. It arrived on 5/2/02 seven months later and four months over due. It wasn't supposed to take four months from the beginning. And I was supposedly given special consideration because I was grounded. She insists on full payment up front so you have little recourse. Margie Warnke is a horrible person to do business with. She continuously lied about the progress of the prop. To the very end she told me on a Friday it was done and would be shipped that day. Then I was told whoever does her shipping missed the deadline so it didn't get shipped. It wasn't shipped until Tuesday. That's a pretty big miss. Of course when I got it, it wasn't finished. It had to be tried then sent back for fine-tuning. When I shipped it back I was told I would have it back in two weeks, it took four. Better than I expected. But the worst part is when I got it back it was terrible. It shook the airplane badly, even at idle. Initial acceleration was dismal and climb was down 300 fpm. This was after she repitched it to increase the RPMs. Now she won't return my calls. After leaving several massages on her machine she had someone else call me back to tell me she wasn't available for at least 45 days because they are moving to Alaska. After a couple of weeks the message on her machine hadn't changed (leave a message and I'll get back to you) nothing about being unavailable or moving. So I decided to leave another message with a different name and my cell number. What do you know she call back the same day. Now she lies some more, claimes she hasn't gotten the letter I sent over a month earlier with the performance numbers and a request for my money back. She said it's because the mail is being forwarded to Alaska but she called me from Arizona. This tale could take up several pages. It's been a maddening experience that I wouldn't wish on anybody. Buyer beware.

I think that a recent article in the Boston Globe deserves a response. See the article at: http://www.boston.com/dailyglobe2/217/metro/Type_of_plane_that_scientist_fle w_to_his_death_has_a_crash_history+.shtml and the response from Aero news at http://www.aero-news.net I just sent a note to the author mrosenwald@globe.com and a copy to the editor at letter@globe.com It wouldn't hurt for others to do the same.

Thanks for the input, Mike.

OK, I'll take it. Address coming by private email. Thanks.

I'm definately interested, Gary. Which model is it? I presume it's a 12v unit. Has it flown? Any particular reason for selling?

I'll also be looking for the shock spring, pivot MKNG6 and MK-AA Axle Fork, but I expect that is direct order. Dan, You might want to consider the MKNG6A from Jack Wilhelmson http://www.eznoselift.com/ (see members list on this forum). It's a much better piece of hardware than the original design.

>honestly I can't understand the hookup at all. Hmmm. I'm not so sure I understand it either. I'm working from Bob Nuckolls's book drawings Z-11, 29 & 30. >1. Why are the two master solonoids (normal and emergency) coils connected the the left and right ignition switchs? That was my idea. I wanted to be able to select (and test) battery 1, battery 2 or both. With the ingition switch off I'd get essential bus power only. >2. It appears that the normal and emergency buses are direct wired together? No. The two busses you see on the firewall are always on battery busses - i.e. for hobbs, clock, fuel pumps (via switchs) etc. The main and essential busses are under the right armrest. See http://www.kgarden.com/cozy/chap22.htm for details and pictures. >Have you considered putting the emergency power battery in the nose to help the weight and balance? I assume you would not use the emergency battery for starting current except as a booster for the other battery. I considered it, but I'd like to use either 1, 2 or both for starting. I'm hoping the weight & balance will work out, but will move one or both batteries if necessary. These little 17ah rgs are pretty light anyway.

Correct

Thanks for the input. >I wouldn't want a remote selector - denver effect Lets not get into a full John Denver discussion, but Andair's remote selector option is a real fine piece of work that you can REACH. >Why do you need a valve on the returns?? to send the returned fuel to the tank I'm drawing from. I'm beginning to lean to the motorized soleniod on the firewall for this.

Hi Gary, I'm still learning this stuff. With an Ack encoder work with any transponder?

I dunno Dean. I think they cost me about $75 for the pair. How about $40 plus shipping (or you can drive over and pick them up). However - before buying and fitting fuel caps consider carefully what you want, and take a look at different types fitted on finished planes. I changed my mind in midsteam and decided I would fork out and get the lockable caps from Wicks (after buying Jacks). I'm pleased that I did. Jacks caps are an elegant lightweight and simple solution, but I'm glad I spent the extra bucks and got the top of the line ones. I particularly like the ease of opening and the way they fit flush with the skin. How's that for "unselling" my spare fuel caps?

Very timely info, Jack. Thanks. I'm in the process of screwing things to the foreward side of the firewall. So far I have quite a list: 17ah rg main battery main battery contactor main battery bus 17ah rg alternate battery alt battery contactor alt battery bus starter contactor ground bus 60 amp current limiter alternator field contactor EC2 fuel injection & ignition computer I've attached a picture. Any comments or suggestions on this layout would be very welcome. John Slade

Chrissi, Talk to Bulent Alieve. He moved the seatback rearward about 8 inches. John

Dean, I built my Cozy in Florida using MGS. I experimented with various mixtures and temperatures from 100% fast in 90 degree weather - boy you gotta be QUICK to 100% slow in 60 degree weather - 3 days and still tacky. I don't think the times are linear. Everything depends on the temperature of the parts and the ambiant air. Mostly I used 50/50, but I learned to dump a little more fast or slow into the pump based on the ambiant temperature and layup size. I used about 90% slow for the wing lay-ups and got a good 5 - 6 hours before it was too tacky to squeege. Bottom line is that you have to learn what works by experimentation. Err on the slow side until you get the hang of it. Another important variable is the thickness of the layup. If you're doing a 2 BID bulkhead all fast might work fine, but don't try this with a spar cap where the epoxy can exotherm due to self heating. Regards, John Slade

Dan, There's a lot of info about how I got started in my web site introduction at http://kgarden.com/cozy Regards, John Slade

At the recommendation of others I considered eliminating the "quick disconnect" fittings in the aileron torque tubes, but eventually installed them. The advice was right. Once the aileron controls were finished, and I needed to remove the wing for the LAST time, I found that the quick disconnects were unnecessary, perhaps even a liability. Why? Well, when you remove the bolt for disconnect, there isnt enough travel on the ailerons to remove the tube. It stays joined until you remove the wing. So you just slide the wing off right? I may be paranoid, but it seems to me that moving the wing, and backing it off the bolts with that tube still connected might well lead you to move the torque tube rearwards and bend the aileron rod end. Anyway, it didnt look good to me, so I decided to remove the rod end at the bellcrank. The other potential problem is introduction of slop at the quick disconnect fitting. My recommendation to new builders is skip the quick disconnect and make the torque tube all one piece.

I might take a couple of these off you're hands, Nick. What do you want for them?

You guys installing EFIS-1's and GPS COM systems... Don't throw that old stuff away. I need it. John Slade Currently have a blank panel except the basic T.

I called Wicks to place an order last Friday. Just as I was about to hang up I said "Oh - do you have an OSH discount this year?" Cherri said, "yes, but the show hasnt started yet... would you like me to hold you're order till Tuesday?" I love these guys. Get you're Wicks discount on orders place this week!

Nick, You did a good thing moving the forum to another provider. It's much faster here. Now - can we stop hopping around the eworld and stay here for a while?

Builders, After three years of thinking about it, I'm still no closer to a decision on which way to go with my fuel system. Perhaps in this new unmoderated forum, I can get some useful ideas.... Current situation. Cozy IV with plans fuel system, weatherhead valve in the seatback and 3/8 lines. No returns plumbed and no fuel level sensors fitted. Problem I'm installing a fuel injected Mazda 13B rotary which requires 40 + PSI fuel pressure and returns. I'd like two independant fuel supplies to the rail with a filter and pump on each. So, how do I handle switching the returns? Suggested solutions 1. Andair duplex valve on the firewall with remote switching. Pros - High quality part. Simple operation. Cons - Price. Remote selector. 2. Draw always from tank A. facet tank transfer pump to regulate fuel levels, a la Tracy Crook. Pros - Inexpensive Cons - Pilot workload 3. A second weatherhead valve on the seatback for the returns. Pros - Inexpensive Cons - lots of pipes in the cabin. 4. A motorized soleniod on the firewall. Duplex valves are available, but with plastic fittings Pros - inexpensive cons - Plastic fittings 5. Go with a sump tank a la Velocity. Pros - proven Cons - proven to be a nuisance with irregular feeds. Header tank in the cockpit. Every solution has its own set of advantages and disadvantages. I've listed some that I know of. There seems to be no RIGHT way to do this. I'd appreciate any words from the wise. Right now I'm leaning towards Andair.

Jim Lets have the "rest of the story....."

The following are my recent posts to the CA-mail list concerning plastic peel ply. Some of the text below "didn't make it" to the public posting. > Unless there is something else being used that is new, better or > different, the term "plastic" in this dialogue, may simply be a generic > term. I suspect it's still Dacron or some other similar material. No. What Bulent and I are talking about here is the use of clear 6 ml plastic sheeting, as found in home depot, on top of the finished layup and any standard cloth peel ply. The technique has been described as "poor mans vacuum bagging". The plastic sticks to the wet epoxy and shows up bubbles very well. Squeege over the plastic with a little help from a hair dryer and you can watch the bubbles run along in front of you're squeege and out the edge. Wet the squeege with epoxy for a better slide over the plastic. The air can't get back in because of the seal caused by the plastic. Lots of excess epoxy can be removed this way for a very tight, compact and lightweight result. Do not press too hard because air can be sucked back into the layup through the foam - you'll see this when it happens because the area goes dark when you squeege it, then goes white again. If this happens lift the plastic and add more epoxy. After cure the plastic comes off in an instant and you have a very smooth, almost moldlike finish. I describe this in detail in my web page "tips and tricks" section. http://kgarden.com/cozy I first saw this at Bulent's shop 3 years ago after finishing my fuselage sides. I've used it ever since. The airframe is now finished and in gloss. The only place I saw pin holes was in the parts I did BP (before plastic). Try it once. You'll never go back. > I'm sure John Slade would jump in but... The technique is to use > your basic > peel ply and then cover that with a plastic sheet - 3mil plastic > drop sheets > at Agent Orange (Builders Depot) or equiv. (see > http://kgarden.com/cozy for a > more in depth explanation). Actually, I find the 3mil too thin. 6 Mil works better. Doesnt wrinkle up as much. The 15% reduction was in the weight of the layup. I subtracted the weight of the foam in each case. > (created by getting all of the air out) would actually pull the > layup off of the foam. Hmmm. I never heard of (or saw) anything like that. > so do some test layups and destroy them with a spring guage > in shear, torsion and tension (I couldn't find a difference). Wouldnt hurt, just to make you feel better. > I suspect I am missing something that makes your process worthwhile. Can > you explain it again for me please? Thanks Yes, Art. What I think you are missing is that significant compression DOES take place. With the squeege sliding on plastic the fibers are squeezed. Air can't get back in, so they stay squeezed. Its hard to get a dry layup this way, and its very obvious when you do. The color change from light to dark as the squeege passes tells you everything. Air bubbles are being displaced. The gloss finish is very easily scuffed up for bond since there is no weave to deal with. I think we had the best suggestion earlier - try it on some test pieces and do structural tests. Prove (or disprove) the technique with practical experiment rather than theoretical science. > You are the one who has been quoted as having reduced your part weight by > 15% using this method, not me. Wrong. I said: "The 15% reduction was in the weight of the LAYUP." You said: "Vacuum Bagging ...they consistently reduce the weight of PARTS made that way by 25%." Apples and oranges, even at grade school level. >I am telling you that if you use those parts in your airplane, you are >risking creating a great deal of pain and sadness for those who love you! Ahha! the old scare tactic, commonly used to assert the status quo when innovation rears its ugly head. Usually indicates the end of a discussion. The plane is almost finished, Art. I'll "drop in" and give you a demo one day. Note: See my web page, http://kgarden.com/cozy/chap20.htm for pictures and discussion of this method.

The following are my recent posts to the CA-mail list concerning plastic peel ply. Some of the text below "didn't make it" to the public posting. > Unless there is something else being used that is new, better or > different, the term "plastic" in this dialogue, may simply be a generic > term. I suspect it's still Dacron or some other similar material. No. What Bulent and I are talking about here is the use of clear 6 ml plastic sheeting, as found in home depot, on top of the finished layup and any standard cloth peel ply. The technique has been described as "poor mans vacuum bagging". The plastic sticks to the wet epoxy and shows up bubbles very well. Squeege over the plastic with a little help from a hair dryer and you can watch the bubbles run along in front of you're squeege and out the edge. Wet the squeege with epoxy for a better slide over the plastic. The air can't get back in because of the seal caused by the plastic. Lots of excess epoxy can be removed this way for a very tight, compact and lightweight result. Do not press too hard because air can be sucked back into the layup through the foam - you'll see this when it happens because the area goes dark when you squeege it, then goes white again. If this happens lift the plastic and add more epoxy. After cure the plastic comes off in an instant and you have a very smooth, almost moldlike finish. I describe this in detail in my web page "tips and tricks" section. http://kgarden.com/cozy I first saw this at Bulent's shop 3 years ago after finishing my fuselage sides. I've used it ever since. The airframe is now finished and in gloss. The only place I saw pin holes was in the parts I did BP (before plastic). Try it once. You'll never go back. > I'm sure John Slade would jump in but... The technique is to use > your basic > peel ply and then cover that with a plastic sheet - 3mil plastic > drop sheets > at Agent Orange (Builders Depot) or equiv. (see > http://kgarden.com/cozy for a > more in depth explanation). Actually, I find the 3mil too thin. 6 Mil works better. Doesnt wrinkle up as much. The 15% reduction was in the weight of the layup. I subtracted the weight of the foam in each case. > (created by getting all of the air out) would actually pull the > layup off of the foam. Hmmm. I never heard of (or saw) anything like that. > so do some test layups and destroy them with a spring guage > in shear, torsion and tension (I couldn't find a difference). Wouldnt hurt, just to make you feel better. > I suspect I am missing something that makes your process worthwhile. Can > you explain it again for me please? Thanks Yes, Art. What I think you are missing is that significant compression DOES take place. With the squeege sliding on plastic the fibers are squeezed. Air can't get back in, so they stay squeezed. Its hard to get a dry layup this way, and its very obvious when you do. The color change from light to dark as the squeege passes tells you everything. Air bubbles are being displaced. The gloss finish is very easily scuffed up for bond since there is no weave to deal with. I think we had the best suggestion earlier - try it on some test pieces and do structural tests. Prove (or disprove) the technique with practical experiment rather than theoretical science. > You are the one who has been quoted as having reduced your part weight by > 15% using this method, not me. Wrong. I said: "The 15% reduction was in the weight of the LAYUP." You said: "Vacuum Bagging ...they consistently reduce the weight of PARTS made that way by 25%." Apples and oranges, even at grade school level. >I am telling you that if you use those parts in your airplane, you are >risking creating a great deal of pain and sadness for those who love you! Ahha! the old scare tactic, commonly used to assert the status quo when innovation rears its ugly head. Usually indicates the end of a discussion. The plane is almost finished, Art. I'll "drop in" and give you a demo one day.