Daryl Lueck

I've tried both, and added a third, Super Fill. My thoughts are that West and MGS worked about the same. I started with West and switched just recently because I ran out of West's and I still had a gallon MGS. I honestly don't notice a difference. They seem to sand about the same. I don't remember the cost of each. That might be a factor. The Super Fill was not a good experience for me. I used it about 3 years ago and measured by volume, not weight. I also mixed the 2 parts in a cup, not a flat plate as now recommended. My Super Fill did not mix properly and I didn't see that until after it had cured. I had numerous areas that never cured and you could scape it off with your finger nail. This didn't happen to small areas either. I ended up redoing the nose of the fuselage, the underside of a wing and the top of the canard. I think that the bottom of the canard was the only area I didn't sand off and redo in West of MGS. Daryl

When we were at SNF this year we spent 2 days looking at the GNS530 and the UPS CNX80 (?). We ended up going with the GNS530. We also bought the Garmin Audio panel and transponder (mode C digital, not the $5k mode S). Got them from American Avionics, great people to work with. Gulf Coast didn't have the time to talk to us... their loss, not ours. We just received the units last week. The wiring is handled by an Approach Systems avionics hub. Extremely nice set up. Don't know how it will work yet, but the concept and wiring are nice. One very big consideration is panel space, as Marc and John are aware of. If you can get the 530, audio panel and transponder in one stack great. I couldn't because I have the Wayne Lanza panel at the top of our panel. The 530 is in the center, with the transponder and audio panel next to it. This leaves 1/4 inch between the CDI and the 530 and 1/4 inch between the audio panel and the VM1000. Don't know why we worry so much about what wood laminate we put on our panels when we end up cutting holes all over it anyway! Still working on the mounting. Hopefully this week. Daryl

It's just north of the Flyin. Stop at Nat's booth and get the directions from there. See at the show.

There is a Builders Forum, hosted by Nat, on Friday afternoon. The Cozy Builder's dinner is on Saturday evening at 6:00 at Robbins. My wife and I set it up. The speaker at the dinner will be a representative from MGS. They are also sponsering wine for the dinner! I tried posting the dinner on the event calendar, without success. I'll try again.

For all you flyers out there... where did you mount your intercom jacks???? I need to send the wire lengths to American Avionics and I'm debating on the location. I like the armrests, but they may be in the way of my elbow. How about the center console? Could be the same elbow issue. The lower corners of the panel?? Don't like the wires running by the stick. How about the shoulder support??? Seems to be the best, but how do I run the wires???? Just need some ideas. How about it Marc and John? Couldn't see any pictures on your sites.

Thanks everyone. It sounds like I will vent out the bottom of the cowling like everyone else. I did think about running it along side the exhaust, like the breather tube. Then if it vents I'd receive an afterburner effect from the fuel igniting. Would have looked pretty nice at night. Thanks again.

I'm down to my last hookup for the engine and I'm confused. I have a IO360 - 180hp with Bendix injection. The engine driven fuel pump has a vent hole with no info in the manual on venting to where. My a&p doing my inspections says to run a line out the cowling. He says that the vent line is incase the pump builds too much pressure. Would this be dumping fuel? Doesn't sound like I want to dump fuel out the cowling.... Is this a fuel injection only issue or do carb'd engines have the vent also? I'd like to start the engine this weekend, but this could put a damper on the whole thing.... thanks.

I've got new in the box vacuum driven gyro's for sale. Sigma Tek's, no internal lighting. I've had them for 18 months, but I've decided to go electric. Asking $475 each. I'll pay for shipping.

I just submitted a request for a quote from EAA/Falcon. Got a quote back for $2790.00 per year, with 0 deductibles and $50k in hull. The other interesting thing is I must have 10 hours of dual in the insured aircraft before I can fly solo.... Nice for EAA's "new" carrier to meet the needs of homebuilders. I'll be following up with Falcon on the quote and the effect of dropping the hull insurance, or adding a deductible. My current policy with AIG is $1100 per year with $28k hull and no deductibles. We also have 4 pilots. The plane is a '67 Cherokee. I was very surprized at the cost difference. Just wanted to know if Falcon was inline and I need to get a part time job to pay for the Cozy insurance. thanks, Daryl

I'm down to completing some mods to my cowlings and glassing in the front armrests (after all my wiring is done) and I'm running out of the RAE slow I have been using. I don't want to change my pump settings at this point, so any recommendations on what epoxy options I have that use the same 4:1 ratio? As an alternative, if anyone has a gallon of RAE laying around I'll trade you for a gallon of MGS..... Thanks

I needed to buy by vacuum system plumbing, the regulator, the various pipes/tubes, the fittings, the filters, and whatever else I'll need, and got more frustrated. I already have a new vacuum pump on the Aerosport Power IO360 and I have 2 new SigmaTech gyros but I'm seriously thinking about switching over to either electric gyro's or the EFIS Lite..(Hey Greg, how about a Cozy builder discount???) What do you think? The cost, provided I can sell by vacuum pump and vacuum gyros, will be slightly more for the electric, but I think the reliability will be better. What's the cost for electric gyros going to be???? Anyone tried the EFIS Lite in the air? What's the word on the street about the equipment and support?

The gear has been sold. Thanks for your interest. Daryl

It includes the Brock manual gear retract. I believe it is part VENGR. Also included is the universal joint, the torque tube, the cockpit handle and the phenolic block.

It includes the manual nose lift that attaches to the strut, the torque tube, the universal joints, the handle and the phenolic block that the handle goes through. Basically everything that is needed to install the manual nose gear retract.

I also have a Brock nose lift for sale. I don't know what they're selling for, but make me an offer. Never used in a flying Cozy (does that mean something?).