gullikson Posted May 7, 2008 Posted May 7, 2008 Hello all, I am starting another Long/Open-EZ project. Can anyone direct me to some plans to do a wide canopy ala Steve Volovsek? I think having more headroom would really suit my GIB, and myself for that matter. Any help with info on this type of installation would sure be appreciated. I know where to get the canopy, just not quite sure how to do the frame/latch, etc. Thanks! Greg Quote
Edge 513 Posted May 7, 2008 Posted May 7, 2008 I would just "dish out" a deeper hole for yur butts- its just simplefiberglass [not yur butt, or her butt] and it would be much easier IMO to ergo the change there and use a stock canopy and etc. This would keep your shoulders at the correct position relative to the longerons and not crowd you there. Use some 2 inch urethane and sculpt a nice long fairing forward of the first glutenous location and continue it aft...a couple small side armpit up scoops to take the place of the single doggie and you are in business. 'Course rereading I think you want wide not deep/tall. Man, why didn't I think of that!? Quote Self confessed Wingnut. Now think about it...wouldn't you rather LIVE your life, rather than watch someone else's, on Reality T.V.? Get up off that couch!!! =) Progress; Fuselage on all three, with outside and inside nearly complete. 8 inch extended nose. FHC done. Canard finished. ERacer wings done with blended winglets. IO540 starting rebuild. Mounting Spar. Starting strake ribs.
BLUE MAX Posted May 8, 2008 Posted May 8, 2008 I have a todds canopy myself. I talked to Steve V and he told me what to do. Take a look at my website and see the pictures of that install. I have more detailed pics if you need them. I am 6'2 like Steve V. He told me to use a 3 inch piece of foam and place it on the top of the headrest. That was a real good idea cause it gave it a 3rd place to rest while you secure it in the correct position. Prep the bottom of the canopy grinding .75 inches all the way around inside and out for glassing. I made dams all the way around the canopy to use pour foam for the shaping of the canopy frame. This method is SOOOO much easier and nicer then the plans way. Check out the pics on my website...but thats about the jist of it. Quote Tom McCormick http://tomslongez.com Almost done the nose section.
Limo EZ Posted May 8, 2008 Posted May 8, 2008 Greg, I am also using Todds canopy and it is a lot longer and wider. I believe the key to the frame is to position the canopy by means limited only by you imagination to build a fixture to support it while you build the frame around the plexi. I used some wood to span the width of the cockpit with small blocks of wood close to and inside the plexi. I used several small brackets that are used to hold mirrors to a wall. These can be found at the home improvement center. Small electrical cable blocks used to secure cable to joists aould also be used. I can't find the pictures darn. I used divinycell strips microed together to form the frame. I the front the opening at the curved forward portion was filled with blue foam. I shaped the outside and glassed it. I removed the frame and glassed the inside. Hope this helps Joe Berki Limo EZ Quote
gullikson Posted May 8, 2008 Author Posted May 8, 2008 Hi Joe, Thanks for the input. I guess my big question is this, if the canopy bubble is near the edge, or flush with the outboard sides of the longerons, what is it that is being done to ensure it remains attached to the canopy frame? With the plans design, the canopy is encased with a fairly sizeable frame outboard of the bubble. Greg Quote
Limo EZ Posted May 9, 2008 Posted May 9, 2008 Greg, The frame in the oversize canopy is smaller than the plans canopy. I used carbon fiber in the frame to get the stiffness and strength. At the pilot station it actually is wider than the longerons like the F16. Joe Quote
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