Brian DeFord

Marc, I beg to ask for an explanation to that last part of your statement. Drag on an aircraft is a function of airspeed and as drag on an aircraft component increases, so will the stress that component sees (stress being the force (drag) over some area). It feels that way because it IS being pushed back harder! The parasitic drag produced by airflow over your hand is increasing as a function of speed. You weren't wrong...

Try looking for AC 43.13-1B - I found it.

This item has been sold.

I have a gently used (sprayed the primer on my Cozy MK-IV) Citation HVLP Sprayer / Respirator from Axis Products for sale. See the description at their website. I have the spray gun, hoses for both the gun and respirator, mask, belts and pump - everything that came with the unit. These are selling new for $1100 but I am willing to take $750 if you'll pay the shipping. http://www.axispro.com/index.php?categoryID=4 Brian DeFord

This was my panel after installing the Trio Avionics altitude hold this past winter. Since then I have removed the Alpine CD player and opted for the MP3 input like Wayne mentions above. The audio panel has been swapped out for a PMA8000B with the music input on the front face of the unit. Also added but not viewable is a Garmin GDL69 weather datalink that interfaces with the MX-20.

Oops - should say 51 grams not .51

I just re-installed my Catto 3-blade prop after having the pitch increased. I thought this would be a good time to do a dynamic balance of the engine/prop combination so I set up the appointment for this morning. I've had a number of little items I've worked on for the past few months while my prop was in the shop, so I was busy this week getting everything in the engine area back up to snuff and ready for engine start. I finally got the prop back on, tracking straight and the spinner re-installed just as 8am rolled around and John showed up for the balancing. He installed his equipment on the top of the engine; an accelerometer to measure the movement of the engine/prop mass and an optical sensor to measure the RPM and clock the blades. A small computer uses the information from the two sensors to determine imbalance and recommend the location and amount of mass to add to offset the imbalance. After the sensors were installed I hopped in and started the engine. Blonde Streak hasn't had her engine run hard since January so I intended to baby her a bit. She ran real rough - more so than ever. After about a minute of this John told me to cut the engine and said he spotted some fuel leaking. We traced the leak to the new fuel flow divider I had installed - apparently I had only hand tightened the fuel lines at the flow divider and it was leaking from all four lines. We quickly solved that problem by tightening the nuts and then did a re-start. Much better! I let her run for about 5 minutes while the oil temps came up and then gradually increased the throttle until she was at max. I noted 2150 RPM and a fairly good vibration which I have been accustomed to since the beginning. I nodded to John and he took the readings on the machine and a few seconds later he gave me the signal to shut her down. The first reading was .69 inches per second - a little higher than John said he usually sees (about .4) but within the limits of balancing. John said the goal would be to get less than .2 and a reading over 1.0 is an indication of issues that needs more investigation before balancing is attempted. We were right in the middle of the range. The computer told him where to add the mass so he installed 3 large area washers plus an AN bolt and nut to the starter ring. I hopped back in a wen through the process again. A realized a very noticeable improvement in the vibration and the static RPM rose as well - this time to 2215! I hadn't expected that, but John said it's very common to see an increase in RPM after balancing. It makes sense - a smooth running prop and engine is going to take less effort to turn so the extra power is going to show up in RPM gain. Great! After the second run the reading came to .29 - still higher than the target, so we added two more washers to the same location for a total mass of .51 grams. I hopped back in, started her up and ran the engine up to 2270 RPM this time. Another increase and much less vibration again. After shutting down John said the reading was now .09 and good enough to stop. We removed all the sensors, wrote up the paperwork and made a logbook entry and called it a success. I'm thrilled with the results! Much less vibration and an increase of over 120 static RPM. The RPM increase was a pleasant surprise and one I'm grateful for. Since I had the prop re-pitched I knew I would see a drop in static RPM which would likely result in longer takeoff roll. The price you pay for higher top in speed with a fixed pitch prop. Well, the old prop used to run 2350 static RPM so I lost a net of 80 RPM so I'm not complaining at all. I know the top end performance will be better with the new prop and the smoother ride will be more enjoyable. I guess I'll have to go fly now to see if I'm right! Bottom line - if you haven't dynamically balanced your prop I would highly encourage you to do it right away. The benefits of the smooth ride, less wear and tear on the airframe and higher RPM's will translate into a much better performing airplane.

Heck, you can use any pics you find to your liking on my web site ( http://www.deford.com/cozy ), there are a couple of the completed plane in Chapter 25, or if you want a better picture than what you find, let me know and I'll take it.

Just wanted to give a hearty recommendation to Craig catto of Catto propellers. As some of you remember, I had an airflow restriction on my IO-360 a couple of years ago that I just didn't know existed and I attributed the low power to an overly pitched prop. Craig will adjust the pitch for no cost on one of his props, so I sent it back and the difference was just what I needed. That is until I found the real source of my low power (the airflow restriction). I've flown about 20 hours since fixing the airflow restriction but the prop is obviously not pitched enough and I am constantly pulling the throttle back to keep it under redline. I spoke to Craig yesterday (11/28/05) prepared to buy another prop when he informed me he could adjust the prop back to the higher pitch! He didn't promise he could get everything back, but he said 100-150rpm was possible. Wow, I'd never heard of that before. So, first of the year I'm sending it back to be re-pitched yet again, only this time to get more pitch. I just thought that any of you looking for a prop ought to know that Craig is a great help and makes a great product. I'd highly recommend him.

Gary's instructions have a BL 74 dimension for the centerline of the pods, but also says that the 74 isn't critical so long as both left and right side are the same. So, you could mount them outboard of 74 if it would make you feel better about the clearance. In any case, they are mounted on the wing, not the strake.

Here's my list: Mission: IFR cross country Performance: 250-300Kts Seating: 6 (2+2+2), single side door entry Cabin width: ~60" Gear: Fixed Single engine, deisel. Useful load: 2000lb - 1500lb (passengers+300lb baggage area) + full fuel (500lb ~70 gal) Cost: <$60k US materials (less engine & avionics) Plans built w/ quick construction techniques for airframe (<1000hrs)

Ok, just suppose you could dream the perfect canard aircraft - what would you wish for? I'm talking about mission, performance, seating, cost, plans, kit or off the shelf. Secondarily, if the powerplant were a constraint would it be a single or twin engine? how about piston (deisel, avgas?), rotary or turbine? What about retracts? Let's assume you have a blank sheet of paper. If you want to compare it to a current design that's OK, just don't be encumbered by the past in your thinking. Who knows...Santa may be listening.

No, the retracts are fully contained in the strake area I've got Gary Hunter's new pods for the MK-IV (first ones I think) and they mount to the wing. Mounting them to the strake wouldn't work because they require some hard points installed to capture the mounting bolts and you'd be jeopardizing the fuel tank area.

Ahmed Asif flew his Cozy N509MS in from California. So did Jorgen Skovbjerk in his Cozy N655DK both are pictures below. There were half a dozen LongEZ's and VariEZ's in attendance as well. The last photo is some of them grazing - sorry I didn't get details.

Added some pictures from Copperstate 2005. First one is of myself and the 3 littlest Blonde Streaks next to Blonde Streak after arrival. I had the fortune of having Cory Bird's beautiful Symmetry parked head to head with Blonde Streak. The next photo shows Symmetry in the forground with Blonde Streak in the background - much as it was all day! The crowds around Symmetry never let up. The next two are of Cozy N22AZ originally built by Robin Dubois. They were just leaving as I took the picture. Next is Doug Pitzer's Cozy MK-IV N433DP - a very pretty Cozy!

Just got home for the evening after flying Blonde Streak over to Casa Grande to the Copperstate fly-in. Not much is there yet, but Friday and Saturday are typically bigger days. We left Chandler municipal around 1:15 for the 15 minute flight. I took the plane up earlier in the day for a few touch and go's - the mornings are starting to cool off some, so it was pleasant. After landing and cleaning up the plane we loaded up. I took all three of my daughters with me - a first! Susan drove the van down to meet us and provide our ride home. I'll leave the plane there during the fly-in and drive back again each day. Looking forward to meeting anyone that can make it.

I am looking into possibly selling N309BD, aka Blonde Streak. Full details of the the plane, the build and its flight history are available at my web site, http://www.deford.com/cozy. Contact me is you are seriously interested and we can talk specifics.

If the FAA does it it won't cost a dime. That's what they're paid to do. Now, getting an FAA guy to do it is a whole other story...If you go with a DAR they charge anywhere from $200-$500 based on quotes I've seen from others. Mine charded $250. Again, if the FAA is involved and depending on what part of the country you are in they may never schedule it - they're just "too busy" but a DAR can usually get you scheduled within days.

Or maybe not - there isn't one picture of a flying plane, only digitally pasted images. They may have completed a mockup, but who knows if it ever flew. Buyer beware...

Anyone have suggestions on the best way to bleed the brake system after intruding into it? I recently had to relocate my master cylinders and needed refill the fluid. I've tried to use the oil can method and pump the fluid from the brakes up to the reservoirs, but my oil can just can't push that fluid up hill like others say they can. I've tried a differnt oil can as well with the same result. So - I added fluid to the reservoirs and pumped the brakes with the bleeder valve open slightly. I let the fluid run into a can and when the reservoir was about dry I would refill it and keep pumping. I did this about 5 times, took the plane out for a "spin" around the tarmac and was dissapointed in the results. One side was OK - not as good as it should be and the other side was barely holding. So, any suggestions on how to get the air out of these lines?

Yes to both! It was sure hot...but it took me 'til tonight to get them posted to my web site. See http://www.deford.com/cozy/improvements.html and follow the links near the end of the page where I talk about the rudders. I've also added some installation photos of the new gear motor and automatic extension unit if you follow that link. Here's a quick pic of the actuator.

Wayne's actuators are unique - I'll be interested in hearing how they perform in actual use. Its a clever, adjustable, lightweight design. I just installed a pair of new actuators in mine and I'll try to remember to get pictures today when I go work on them. I'm hoping to get the brake lines hooked back up and bleed the system later today (I'm waiting till it hits 100+ degrees so I can enjoy the heat reflected off the black asphalt!).

Jon, Standard pedals cost me $200 a year ago. You really don't need to go to the expense of the dash 5 setup. I have internal rudder belhorns, so with either the standard Cozy pedals or the Velocity pedals, once the rudders are fully deflected a spring takes up the additional travel while you push the brake cylinder.

I'll be wrapping up my modifications to 'Blonde Streak' this weekend. After my gear up landing mishap I took the opportunity to install Jack Wilhelmson's nose gear retract warning system as well as replace my Steve Wright noselift with Jacks. While I was in the nose I moved the rudder pedals forward a few inches to give my feet additional clearance. I'd installed the Velocity rudder pedals and can't say enough how much I like them. So much better built that the plans Cozy rudder pedals and much easier to implement, especially if done during initial construction. I'd worked out the cost back when I installed them and they are actually cheaper that the stock rudder pedals as well! Anyway, I have a fellow Cozy builder (Dale Rogers) here in the Phoneix area machining me some new rudder/brake actuators and they should be ready to install this weekend. Much better that the sliding tube in tube that I had previously. I shamelessly stole the design concept from Steve Wright's StaggerEZ. So, anyone wanting to perform a similar mod just let me know and I'll give you the scoop. I should have new pic's on my site in a few days as well.

Well, no real modifications to speak of. I replaced the damaged area with 1/4" plywood instead of foam because the damaged area was just at 1/4" deep and I had the material. I imagine the wood will last a fraction longer than the foam in the event it happens again. I had significant removal of material on the strut near the KMNG6 pivot so I elected to replace the entire strut. In the process I replaced the MKNG6 with Jack Wilhelmsons improved tapered bearing unit and remade the NG5 using steel instead of aluminum as called for in the plans. When I took off the old MKNG3, MKNG4 and "foot" (motorized versions replace the MKNG2 with a "foot") they were rusted pretty badly and I didn't like that. Jack also sells a stainless steel foot and MKNG3 so I opted for the stainless parts. I had to fabricate my own MKNG4 from stainless as Jack doesn't have this part (he claims its harder to make, but I found it pretty easy). Since I was buying all this stuff from Jack I also looked at his lift motor and electronic gear extension system. I had Steve Wright's nose lift system in the plane but after looking at the weight advantage and the clever electronics of Jack's system I decided to swap out Steve's for Jack's. It was a bit more work than really needed to be done but I liked the whole package better - it's lighter, seems better thought out and has the electronics package ready to wire into the plane. It took about 6 hours total for me to complete all the work including taking out the old motor. I decided I wanted my rudder pedals moved as well and since I was working in this area I did it at the same time. I have Velocity rudder pedals hanging from the canard brace, but I originally installed them when I had no upholstery. With the upholstery installed they were too close and caused my knees to be jammed up under the instrument panel when I had my feet on the pedals. Changing the location was no problem - I moved the mounts forward on the canard brace about 3 inches. However, the brake cylinders had to be relocated and longer rudder cables installed and that took the most time. I'll have pictures of all this on my site shortly. So, the repair took all of 4 hours, but the modifications have been taking much longer