Cozy1200

I'll be needing the 100 degree countersink in a couple months. Were is the best/cheapest to pick one up. I'm sure I could pick one up from a local tool supplier, but I really don't want to pay $50. The 100 degree seems to be more rare than the more common 90 degree. thoughts?

Gosh, I'm speechless..... :o :o

That's Funny. IIRC, didn't you have something along that lines on your white board todo list? Amy & I still chuckle over that. Here's a photograph from the Beach last weekend. Beautiful sunny day (In oz speak: Fine Day) down at Phillip island. We'll be home next Saturday, I'll see about bringing some home! Boy, I good at making Friends.

ahhh. The cozy girls are endorsing the method that I hoped to use. Now I can sleep at night. Scratch that.... must resist the urge to stay up very late building plane parts.

I take it you're searching for the password to get discounts on CG parts?

Oh ya Clickbonds, I knew I forgot something. I'm planning on using them, but I'm not installing them now. I plan on installing them when installing the control system. That way if a minor shift is needed, it'll be a non-issue. Also there no chance of damaging them or getting epoxy on them.

I had planed to do the same, I didn't think it was needed until late in the build. Even started prepping for CH5. I then glance ahead to ch6 and shoot there's the lower half. So I'm proceeding with making the firewall. I prepped the hardpoint and will alodine them and glass one side tonight. As for the upper half, I looked that up as well. Ch18 Step 7. It's hidden very well in the plans. It's under a title: "INSTALLING THE UPPER HALF OF THE FIREWALL"

There's probably more than one, but there must be at least half a dozen of those Australian flying ants. Supplies from ASS: $2000MGS 285 from local surfboard shop: $1300 Airfreight to Australia: $700 Customs, Taxes, Clearing: $686 Cost of completing the first chapter: PRICELESS Sorry Jon, NOT FOR SALE. Build your own plane! It does feel pretty good. Ch4 was completed in 1 month 1 day. (Minus Perm IP) Steady progress, I've been working about 2-3 hours about 5-6 days a week. A very comfortable pace. But to look at the bigger picture, I've owned the plans for nearly 4 1/2 years. So I guess I only completed one chapter in just over four years. At that rate it may fly someday before I retire. I've showed the project to the non-aviation type, I can tell they have some reservation about someone actually building a plane. When I tell them that it probably going to take at least 3,000 hours to build, the eyebrow raises even more. I just tell them it's really no different than those crazy old men that are building a boat in the basement. The reason they're old and crazy it that they started building when they were young! Gets a laugh every time

One, Two, Three, Four, Five, Six, Seven, Eight. Yep that sounds about right for Chapter 4.

Did I mention that I make only HUGE batches of epoxy and it takes a long time to GO OFF!. I never expected this thread to become so perverted. I won't mention that in OZ, Popsicle are called icy poles. So I won't say I'm using Icy Pole Sticks. I'll deny that and say I'm using tongue depressors.

Not canard related, but still fun. I heard about Andy's Airplane a couple months ago on while listening to an EAA podcast. I signed up for the newsletter and just a couple weeks ago received notice that they are now shipping. I bought the video and a t-shirt for my 3 year nephew. I'm working on brainwashing him. My brother has warned me that it will come back to haunt me when my nephew asks ME to pay for his PPL! Anyways, this looks like a very good educational program for young kids. We need more stuff like this. The website looks very well done. check it out. http://andysairplanes.com/ If you want to learn more about the program, the postcast is in itunes: EAA AvCast 011: Interview with Jon Pierre Francia Another link: http://www.aero-news.net/news/genav.cfm?ContentBlockID=A6CEA59F-8B67-4388-9E6C-3D3AF0E35D1A&Dynamic=1

I have been saving and reusing Cups & Stir Sticks. It really takes no extra effort to save them. When I mix micro, I tend to reach for a previous micro cup. I'll toss them out if I forgot to take the stir stick out or are half full of micro. I've been cycling through the same 10-15 cups for most the layups. I do grab a new one every so often when I've used all the epoxied covered ones. I prefer the used cups over a new one as the bottoms are perfectly smooth and easy to stir. One issue with reusing them here in OZ. There is the strange flying ant like beast that absolutely love to commit suicide in epoxy. They love to buzz around it and eventually crawl into it and die. There are several in the bottom of the cups. There is also a few in the plane part. Most the time I'll pick the out, but occasionally miss them or they break into smaller pieces when plucked out. So I guess Australia will always be part of my plane! The stir sticks get a quick wipe and left on the plastic to cure.

Time for another poll. I think I read some someones website that they only stirred the epoxy for 30 seconds or so. I curious how long everyone mixes their epoxy. So far I've stuck to the 2 minutes suggestion. At about a minute I can tell from the consistency that it appears ready to use. So how long are you mixing your epoxy? I'm using MGS 285 and mixing for 2 minutes.

Is it me or does BID wet out a lot easier than UNI? I did the back side of the LG bulkheads tonight and it just seems to take more epoxy and work to get UNI to wet out. Senior builders, wadda ya say?

I was reading John Slades website today and he mentioned that one pump was about one ounce. I think I weighed a pump one time and that seems about right. Tonight while I was laying of the backside of the LG bulkheads, I wondered what it costs per pump. So assuming one pump is one OZ. ASS website lists MGS 285 Resin at $125 per gallon. Slow hardener is $35, Fast is $30. One of each hardener and one unit of resin will give 1.5 gallons at $190. That's $126 per gallon and $.99 per ounce. So every pump of the stick stuff pump is a Washington. Just an interesting perspective seeing that I probably used 30 pumps on the LG bulkheads tonight.

Good point. Granted 10 minutes extra a day over a 5 year build is an extra 300 hours. But I think your real point is that definitely regular progress is being made. So far in the build I'm comfortably working 5-6 days a week and generally a couple hours at a time. I'm happy, the wife's happy, and I'm building a plane! Life is good.

I'll admit that these activities are needed. I don't count them because they add no value to the plane and are extremely builder Dependant. Personally, because my shop is so tight, I have to clean it and put tools away a couple times a week. Otherwise it's like trying to work in a teenagers bedroom. Is it required? No, but it's not my style. Also it's easier to track progress of what being accomplished. I guess the point I made about the template was that their construction did not detract from time that could have been spent building the cozy. At the time I not not committed to building. But you're right, time is time, and completed parts are parts. Don't become anal about either and one day a plane is born. (I hope I just didn't violate anyones copyrights) As for my employer and being a salaried employee, my job is service the customer and troubleshoot motors. That's what I get paid for. Reading trade magazines, cleaning my desk, and organizing the shop is all part of the job, but it's not THE job needed to get done and what I'm evaluated on. So I guess is a matter of viewpoint. I don't want to confuse activity for productivity. I can go out to the shop everyday and sweep up and count parts, but that doesn't build a plane. If you want to count all the hours you spend in the shop, more power to ya, I can respect that. There's certainly nothing as simple as the plans "Chewing Gum" method. A Stanley knife and a partly cured layup. Everything else is more complicated, the method an individual builder chooses has a lot to do with what they are most comfortable with. I would certainly agree with anyone that reaching for perfection at this stage is overkill. That is unless you have the time, money, & motivation to build a Osh Grand Champion(which I don't).

I have to stop reading this forum at work. Laughing out loud is drawing strange looks from the boss. I now have a new signature.

HatSwitch, Thanks for the kind words. Did someone say Margarita? I don't see my Cozy taking awards at Osh, I'll leave that up to people like the Cozygirrls & the StaggerEZ. I do like to pay attention to details and to an above average job. I'm guessing I'm just under the average for time spent. I'm at 45 hours and guess another 10 to finish CH4. That's considering redoing the back of the seatback. But I am only counting real work; cleaning the shop, counting parts, and reading the plans don't count. Sorry no regular video business here. I would like to finish someday. Besides most of the "HOW-TO" shows are extremely lame and mother-in-law basic. (no offense intended to said mother-in-law)

Understood. Most of the edges will be buried in tapes. I'm not becoming anal with creating perfect parts. The nice edges are a positive, but I think the real key point is the ease at which the router cuts. In my opinion it cuts just as fast as the Fein. And for a little extra effort, it creates a very nice looking part. I just checked the time stamp on the video. It took 9 minutes to router each half of the IP which has 4 holes and the complete outer edge. I don't see even the Fein cutting it out in that timeframe given that the radius corners still need to be done another way. Aligning the template takes less then 5 minutes. So I'd guess it would take someone with a borrowed template less than 30 minutes to bring it to shape. If the process took significantly longer, then I would say it would be questionable. Minus the making of the template, I don't see the time evolved using a router to take any longer than other methods. I made the template 6 months before I started so it took no time away from the build and they are very handy to have for reference and to use for tracing. I have the Fein, but still like this technique for this particular task. I I have to admit a certain level of satisfaction with it. Granted it may be a perceived quality. I took the IP & F-22 to the SAAA meeting last week (EAA equiv in OZ). The parts here a huge hit and drew a lot of questions. Even the RV builders kept a very open mind and asked lots of questions. Sure all are viable options. This is just another technique to consider. Personally the only other one I would even consider now is the Fein. There has been one or two, but some bias probably played in there. It can' be a complete waste, I do have finished plane parts!! Thanks, Whether or not I agree with you, I always appreciate the input. I could certainly entertain the argument that if you have the tools use the technique on only the IP. Aye, Aye Captain.I should be doing that in January after I spend the better part of December back home in the states. I guess the video has done was I hoped for. I wanted to everyone to as least see it being done and then make a judgment call. Personally I like the option, but can understand how some don't see the value. Many builders have spent far more time early on figuring out what works and doesn't work. The first builder I ever met at Osh told me about he carefully sanded the edges of the bulkheads on the belt sander, and then chuckled when he learned that it's all would be covered up. This is a little different; I'm not after a perfect part. I'm just using with what I feel I'm most comfortable and will get the job done in the most reasonable timeframe. I like the flexibility of routers and understand their value. At this stage, it's all about the learning curve. It's not a steep learning curve, but defiantly a curve. BTW, who wants my template when I'm done?

Thanks, I was waiting for someone to say something about that. I thought it was funny.

I was introduced to this method of cutting the bulkheads by the gang at the now famous "Plane Day". I really like how clean the bulkheads turn out. The edges are perfectly square, the lines are straight, and the curved edges are gentle. Personally it makes sense to make a part over sized and then bring it down to shape. Opponents of this method claim that is too messy and you get covered in glass dust. I'll put forth that the mess is no worse than any other wood routing. In fact the dust is probably less than I've seen on some woods. Cutting the parts outside will reduce the amount of dust to cleanup. And sure I'm covered in itching fiberglass dust, but no worse than insulating a house with fiberglass. A good soapy shower will take that away. Here's a video demonstrating the technique from start to finish. It's 10 minutes long and about 25 megs. Enjoy! http://www.cozy1200.com/geeklog/article.php?story=RouterTemplate

I can't tell you how many times that have been ringing in my head since this happened. I think it's all your fault for telling me that. Actually it's one of those sophomore mistakes. I had just gotten comfortable doing layups. Amy had been helping me stretch the plastic out, but she was in bed. That's when I got the wild idea to simply unroll it. The only reason I was using it was it was cheap and readily available in the shop. I think I finally figured out a plan which involves using a router to remove just he cloth and micro. I leaning towards saving the piece now. I don't want to admit that it's one of those screwup that mean the piece has to be scrapped. I think it's more beneficial from a learning perspective to repair the piece versus starting over. I'm learning what works and doesn't work on a not so crucial component. If it turns out, you shouldn't hardly notice the repair. Better than spot repairs over several places. Time wise it'll probably take just as long to repair as to start over, but I won't have to pay for an extra sheet of foam.

Jon I wish I would have taken your advice, but I didn't. After doing the second layup on the IP stiffners, I turned my attention back to the seat back. There are several airpockets about 1/2 inch that have been filled. What's been worrying me are the countless small airbubbles down under the layup. There is only one ply of Bid on this layup so it's definitely under it. As you will recall this is all because I thought I would be smart and simply roll the cling-wrap out on top as a protective layer before putting a sheet of wood on top for weight. Well as the roll unrolled, it pull up the layup ever so slightly sucking in all those tiny bubbles. Big screw-up and even bigger learning mistake. I believe the layup is properly saturated with epoxy, it just has airbubbles underneath it. So now I figured I have several options 1: leave it. The airbubbles are all very small, mostly small bubbles between the weave. There are several large sections of the layup that are this way and are probably over the 5% layup criteria. 2: Selectively sand away the affected area and perform a structural repair. My concern is that I'll have half the layup gone and have to be patched. Not that it is a probablem, it'll just look bad to have a repair in such a visable place. 3: Try to remove the glass by de-laminating it and leave and inch all the way around the layup. Then redo the layup overlapping what's left of the original. 4: Start Over Well after pondering it for a while I thought I'd attempt #3. Why? I had a couple pieces of scrap from the F-22. I was able to stick a screwdriver between the ply and foam and pop the glass from the foam. Then it was fairly easy to delaminate the rest. Great this should be an easy repair.... or so I thought. I thought I would take the fein, cut the line around the area to be removed. Then pull off the glass. Then feather the remaining glass out by sanding before repairing it. The cut went fine. I then went for the screwdriver and pop off it comes. A couple divots, but certainly repairable. As I continue I realize this wont be as easy as I first thought. Some places it came off real nice right down to the bare foam. Almost good enough to do another layup. Other places the glass came off, but left the micro. And other places I damaged the foam trying to pry up the glass. What I've learned is that some foam holds glass better than other. It does make sense. The seatback foam is opencell and takes a lot of micro to fill up the cells. Foam like the IP is harder and closed cell and takes less micro to fill up. So I have about 1/3 of the glass off and the it pretty much a mess. Some bare foam, some still covered in micro, and a handful of divots. As I was creating this mess it was starting to dawn on me that I may ultimately be remaking the seatback. Visions of ordering a single sheet of foam and then shipping it halfway around the world are haunting me. Maybe find a piece locally. Maybe cut it in quarters and pack in in our checked luggage at Christmas. I do realize that seldom is a piece so bad that it's not repairable. I'm at the point now that I'm wondering for a simple piece like the seatback if it's worth the effort to try to repair this mess or just start over. So I decide see if I have any pieces of this particular foam that I wont need until awhile later. Rats, this is the only place in the plane that uses this type of foam. The plans says you need 1.5 sheets. Spruce has 2 sheets down. Hang one, each sheet is large enough for a seatback. Well it looks like I have an extra sheet that won't be used. I guess spruce has an extra piece included for screwups like me. Am I correct that Spruces Ch4 has an extra sheet or will I need it later? So with an extra sheet of foam and the above screwup, is there any reason not just to give up and start over? One upside to redoing the seatback is improving the front. The front side of the seatback are certainly acceptable, but there are couple dings in the glass from wrinkles in the plastic used to protect the wood. Also I missed a small piece of something that stuck to the wood and created a dent in the front side. Looks bad but I figured I'd just fell it with micro later.

I've been thinking about the backside of the IP. The more I look at it, the more unhappy I'm with it. Tonight I filled several of air pockets with a syringe. I'm beginning to wonder about doing a structural repair on the back. Here's an idea and I'm asking for some feedback. About one inch in from each of the sides, sand down threw the one bid ply. Would it now possible to pull the unattached ply off the foam? Basically de-laminate it. Now perform a typical structural repair. I'm just thinking that trying to sand off a large quantity of glass will cause significant foam damage. Want some good new? I now have ONE completed part for my airplane. I will work tirelessly for several the next several years get back to where I'm today. That is to have one and only one complete part. Now if I remember correctly, someone promised/bribed me that showing that un-named person a completed part would earn be another ride in their LEZ! The IP should be done tomorrow after I do the second layup on the stiffners.