Hi from South Africa

[Alfons]

I'm a Velocity builder

The plane is registered for aproval flying ZU-DZU

I'm using a TIO 360 C1A6D reason takeoff at 5500ft and I got it for a good price.

Others talking about swinging a cat in the engine cowling in my one you can let a mouse go and she will go nowere.

Testflying is most of the time short reason engine is getting hot. I hav added 2 additional oil coolers one inside the cowling with electric fans to keep things cool on the ground and an additional one on the bottom of the cowling in the airflow which should take away the heat generated by the turbo and the engine parallell to the one in the nose which I see as a cabin heater.

CG is out and flying alone requires 15Kg led in the nose.

Lately the test pilos refused to go with it when the turbo is in it so I removed it now the engine is so slug I'm worried we probably need the entire 1.8 km runway and a bit more to get airborne.

Any body els out there who tried a TIO

[Terry]

Don't fly that engine with out the turbo. It needs 40 inches of manifold pressure to make 210 HP. That engine has a 7.3 to 1 compression ratio. The normally aspirated IO360 has a 8.7 to 1 compression ratio. With out the turbo that engine likely is making 160 to 170 HP at sea level. At 5000 feet msl it is likely making 130 to 140 hp. I have worked on this engine in the Aero Commander 112TC, it needs lots of air thru large oil cooler to control the oil temperature.

[ZUCZZ]

That was some good advice!

 

What would have to be changed to bring that motor up to, say 180 Hp, bar the pistons?

[Alfons]

It looks to me that you are the guy to talk to.

Which options do I have? and what would you suggest?

change the pistons to high compression pistons but the mechanic after that is still the same and the max rpm remains 2575 and the 200 hp only come with 2700 rpm??

The heat rediation and transfer into the wing spar wing root and cowling by the turbo make the testpilot verry worried. I have the entire area coated with heat protection. The aileron cable is replaced for a teflon coatet cable and shielded with 2 layers of heat protection and an aviation fire hose.

Do i need extra cooling for the turbo? According to my opinion he gets as hot as the exhaust pipe and the cool side of the turbo is facing the spar.

What are the rpm of the turbo?? (10,000)??

The only modification I made on the engine to fit it into the cowling was the intake ellbow between oil sump and FCU the radius is now closer to the engine side. and therefore is a flex hose between turbo and pop valve.

 

http://blogspace.mweb.co.za/default.aspx?alias=Velocity

[Terry]

I don't know how much freedom you have in South Africa to modify things but here is the extent of my knowledge.

This is a link to the type certificate data sheet for your engine.

http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library/rgMakeModel.nsf/0/b531b405c2d5097a8525670e0052caa6/$FILE/E16ea.pdf

My fist choice would to fix the cooling issues and use the engine with the turbo. Your installation is very tight and you need to be certain you are not putting to much heat in your airframe. The only way to be sure is to put temperature sensors on the airframe and measure the temperatures. To run with out a turbo you need to change the pistons to the 8.7 compression ratio from a normally aspirated ANGLE valve IO360 and turn the rpm to 2700. The internals of this engine are turned to 2700 rpm in other applications. Then you should have 200 sea-level horsepower. Also the fuel injection nozzles need to be changed to the normally aspirated type and the fuel injection servo may need to be recalibrated. You would need to contact an overhaul shop to determine that. Please verify all advise you get with with people that do this stuff for a living. Be carfull and be safe

Terry

[ZUCZZ]

Maybe the heating is a double edged problem.

 

If cooling from the bottom, the turbo heats the air, before pushing it thru the fins to cool the motor.

 

In your motor, the exhausts are at the top, so downdraught cooling would reverse the problem, but in both scenarios you are moving heated air to cool the cylinders - so the direction of cooling is problematic.

 

Is there any manner to isolate the air around the turbo and get it out the cowling, so that it does not mix with the air that is trying to cool the motor.

 

Some pictures of your installation would help us to understand.

[Terry]

This engine is designed to be updraft cooled. Boxing the turbo and force cooling the box might help if there is enough room for the box.

[ZUCZZ]

Here is a picture of Alfons's installation from way back.

 

Like Alfons remarked, never mind swinging a cat, there is no room for a mouse!

 

I should have looked before sending my previous mail, sorry!