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I just came across this video which might be of interest to those chasing the last drops of prop efficiency.It seems that hydrodynamics and aerodynamics can cross fertilise each other, and adding “VGs” to a spinner might be an example.FF to app 2m13s to avoid the corporate puff.They are claiming a 5% reduction in fuel burn for the same speed, or a 2% increase in speed at the same power.I know Bill James did something similar with his “Bat Prop” many years ago - he’s always ahead of the curve!Bill Allen
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If news of the sad passing of Dick Rutan is true, I would have expected more tributes from our Canardians.
Those of us who were present at the beginning of Burt's newsletter, becoming the Canard Pusher, will recall the importance of Dick, Burt's elder brother, in keeping Burt's emerging design for the Vari Eze on even rails.
As such he was an essential part of the team/development.
e.g. Telling Burt 'how it was' after testing the initial 'elevons', differential elevator/ailerons, to move to the canard elevator w rear ailerons.
All that, not even counting his round-the-world trip in his Long.
Dick and I shared one potentially deadly event.
I had fitted the 'best ever' custom sized stainless steel bellows-type fuel hose. (Engine fuel pump to Carb on a Lyco)
This was formed as a ss bellows type inner with standard ss braid outer with the bellows inner electron-beam welded to the ss JIC ends.
It failed! I just about dead sticked into Perpignan S France; before I had a chance to report this, a day or two later Dick had exactly the same failure.
A/S removed the article from their catalogue.
Mike T O-235 VE
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Keith Spreuer wrote:Thinking of switching from DOT 5 brake fluid to something more readily available. Is milspec 5606 the right choice? If so can I flush out the system with the new fluid and keep all the existing Orings?Mike Satchell wrote:George at Matco suggested flushing with 5606 or ATF and replacing all the o-rings, then bleed with 5606.A few comments. While DOT-5 fluid seems to be less common than it used to be in auto parts stores, I've never not been able to get some (I use DOT-5 in my Matco brakes). I started using it because every town in the US has an auto parts store, but not every airport has an FBO that carries 5606<n> hydraulic fluid. So in a pinch, the DOT-5 seemed more available. In any case, it's always available on-line.But if one is going to use 5606 fluid, I recommend the MIL-H-83282 (Royco 782) 5606 compatible hydraulic fluid. The flash point is 205C, vs 90C for the 5606 fluids (less than the 500F of the DOT-5, but still a lot better than the plain 5606's (A - J)).So I'd stick with DOT-5, but use Royco 782 after a really good flushing of the system (and taking apart the MC and caliper, cleaning thoroughly).--
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If your looking to buy or know someone who is, please find attached the work log and sales flier for N244CZ. I’ve just completed a 12 month restoration and everything works correctly now so it’s ready for flight once again.If you are looking or know someone who is looking for a Cozy IV, feel free to pass this along. We’d like to get it out of the hanger and get it back into someone’s hands so we can focus on new projects….think motivated seller 😊Thanks for looking. Call or email me off list if you would like to know something that’s not called out in the attached documents.Izzy “Atlantic” BriggsBlackSky Composites, LLC+1 603 410-7277
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George at Matco suggested flushing with 5606 or ATF and replacing all the o-rings, then bleed with 5606.DOT 5 doesn’t seem to be kept on the shelves like it used to with the exception of Harley and farm/implement stores. It’s also shot up a lot in price.I changed from DOT 5 to 5606. Almost all my neighbors have 5606 but none of them have DOT 5.HTH,Mike Satchell
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Match master and wheel made for either fluid
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That depends. Do you have automotive brake cylinders? If so, no. The 5606 will destroy the orings in the master cylinders
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Thinking of switching from DOT 5 brake fluid to something more readily available. Is milspec 5606 the right choice? If so can I flush out the system with the new fluid and keep all the existing Orings?Keith
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I meant to say DICK! Getting older is a B**** - can't seem to get anything right!Gary
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Folks:For those of you who may not be on Tim Fisher's maliling list - here's the Canards West announcement:
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My sincere condolences to his family. He will be missed.Gary HallKFXE (Fort Lauderdale Executive)
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I did check my Lycoming injectors after doing a top overhaul because the engine was idling badly. I simply pulled the injectors and put them into baby bottles and ran the fuel pump with the mixture and throttle up. I could see the injectors were not clogged as they had a good spray pattern but the amount of fuel coming was very uneven between cylinders. I fixed that by pulling all the injector lines off and blowing air through but that took me three attempts. Apparently, dirt had gotten in the lines when the engine was apart even though I had tried to keep them clean.
I doubt that test would help with your problem but can check injectors with a spray test. I have no Idea how to check electronic injection.
You say your misfire is periodic, I think it could be a bad valve. It wouldn’t hurt do a compression check and borescope inspection.
Del Schier
Cozy N197DL
Cannon Creek Airpark 15FL
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Kieth I’d start with an ohm meter, check the resistance across each lead. You can just look for a significant difference among them, but there is an ohms per foot spec, don’t recall what it should be.Really, if you can collect and analyze the EGT data, even one misfire can be seen if studied.Tim Andres
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Might look at the SDS bulletins. There was an issue with the Borla fuel regulator having a vaccuum leak at the adjuster screw. This will cause the MAP values jump all over the place. A drop of wicking (290?) Loctite was recommended.
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Keith Spreuer wrote:The last couple flights the engine has had periodic mis-fires.... Mixture didn't correct it or lessen the frequency.... So the usual suspects, fuel and ignition. Guess I'll start with checking wiring connectors spark plugs and injectors. Marc had a similar issue, right?No - the misfire issues I had were with the previous Airflow Performance Mechanical Fuel injection - a clogged line to cylinder #2 a couple of times, and then later a broken servo elbow, which allowed WAY too much air into the system.But no issues with the SDS - runs like a sewing machine.How do I check the SDS injectors?i don't know that there is a way to check them - that would be something to talk to Ross about at SDS. I'd run this issue past him, since he's both "ignition and fuel" :-). Certainly, check the plugs and wires.I HAVE had periodic tiny blips (again, pre-SDS, but it might apply) which I attributed to water in the fuel. If there's a tiny bit of water that gets pushed to an injector, it may miss one or two firings due to an exceedingly lean mixture in one or more cylinders (water doesn't burn nearly as well as 100LL). So if the last time you added fuel, there was a tiny bit of water in it, MAYBE that's a possible contributor. And, of course, there's no freaking way to check for this - the problem just eventually goes away, after you use up all the water in the tanks. Sumping the tanks MIGHT find it, or it might not, depending upon where it's hiding. And it doesn't have to be a lot.--
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The last couple flights the engine has had periodic mis-fires. It's an O360 with SDS EFII. The first time I noticed it was at taxi RPM. I adjusted the mixture and did a run up and went ahead. Today it was in flight at full RPM an occurred half a dozen times in a 45 min flight. Mixture didn't correct it or lessen the frequency. It's too brief to see in the Egt data. So the usual suspects, fuel and ignition. Guess I'll start with checking wiring connectors spark plugs and injectors. Marc had a similar issue, right? How do I check the SDS injectors?Keith
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On 4/24/2024 10:09 PM, Marc J. Zeitlin wrote:
Folks:
Well, option 1 seems to mean they are supporting their customers. Don't know enough to comment on the other options.
I don't know when this was first released, but I don't recall seeing anything
about it on any of the mailing lists. Apparently, there's an issue with the
EchoUAT units and uAvionix has some upgrade paths available to all users. If
you have one of these units, I suggest that you read this update and follow one
of the three paths provided.
Here's the warning:
https://uavionix.com/echouat-update/
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David Froble Tel: 724-529-0450
Dave Froble Enterprises, Inc. E-Mail: davef@...
DFE Ultralights, Inc.
170 Grimplin Road
Vanderbilt, PA 15486 -
Folks:I don't know when this was first released, but I don't recall seeing anything about it on any of the mailing lists. Apparently, there's an issue with the EchoUAT units and uAvionix has some upgrade paths available to all users. If you have one of these units, I suggest that you read this update and follow one of the three paths provided.Here's the warning:Hope this is useful.--
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Steve Wolpin wrote asking of Mike T << Did you ever dig up your pics/detail of your Gib Canopy Escape linkage? Would like to see how you did that and any thoughts on refining it, after all these years. >>
Steve, the recently posted pictures and vid clip show my latch as the conceived prototype that I dreamed-up in 1983. I have had no reason to change it; it worked from the off.However, it then used the 'standard' Burt handle.
When my daughter started to fly the Vari she needed the handle extension, the yellow grip shown, as she did not have the strength to readily close the latch with the standard handle.
But the latch shown is as conceived and is unchanged since 1983.
RE. a previous request. I was unable some years back to take a photo of my nosegear door arrangement for you. It is too far buried in the mechanism to see any detail. But anyone familiar with a motorcycle gearbox 'positive-stop' rotary cam, will be able to dream-up a similar system.
( Note my email provider has 'improved it' so that I had either 'too big a font' with a risk of offending people or, for me, an 'unreadably too small font'
I hope that the bold font here is acceptable to all. )
Mike T
PS Out of interest, I have finally finished playing about-with, correcting/adding-to my book, see author M J Tooze at Amazon books.
As an autobiography I doubt any of 'us' would find it of interest, only a few chapters on my M/C racing and Eze. (Paperbacks are too expensive these days!) Some wives like biographies. but even they would buck at the (minimised) technical bits, and those that don't mind the tech stuff won't want the UK/British/'Net-Zero-stupidity' stuff, although there are ref's to my US aerospace work and the US Gi's camped opposite us before D day.
- I'll never make a salesman !! ;-)
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I went with the heavy duty Groves on my EZ. Massive!Cm
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I wrote:And a few of them have decided that they're not interested in coming out of the spark plug holes, but would rather commit suicide:So here's what I actually did to remove the stuck adapter:
- I blew air through the cylinder with the piston at TDC by attaching a compression tester adapter to the bottom plug hole
- I used a suggestion to grind away 90% of the adapter, pretty close to the helicoil (the air blew ~90% of the crap out of the cylinder, but not all. Since the adapter was the ancient steel one that LSE used to sell, I was able to use a small magnet to fish out 99% of what fell into the cylinder)
- I then used an 18mm x 1.5mm tap to re-tap the hole and was able to get the tap started in the top of the helicoil to ensure it was lined up correctly. I made it through 95% of the hole, getting clean threads and exposing the helicoil using oil on the tap and collecting chips every three threads or so (and fishing more out of the cylinder with the magnet)
- But sadly, the helicoil spun when tapping the last 2 threads in the hole (isn't that always how it goes?) so I removed the helicoil and re-tapped the helicoil insert threads with the helicoil tap
Thanks to all for the suggestions - a combination of them worked fairly well and only took a few hours.--
Long-EZ Project For Sale Notice
in Canard Aviators Mailing List (read-only)
Posted
LONG EZ without engine for sale
This aircraft was built in 1985 and has 648 hours on the Hobbs meter. The engine was removed and it sat for long enough for the registration and certification to expire. Repairs made since include:
Please see the equipment list below for further information. Located in Santa Fe, NM
Asking $18,000 OBO
View the full article