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Scott MacLean wrote:
How about taking out the other plug, then hooking up an air hose with a high-CFM compressor on it? Then you could hack/cut/drill away, and any debris would be blown OUT the hole instead of falling into the cylinder.
So this, along with grease on the drill and tap, is the route I'm going to go. Here's the plan:- Apply grease to the flutes of a drill small enough to get 98% of the insert
- Remove the lower plug and insert an compressed air fitting
- Blow 100 psi air into the lower plug hole while drilling out the insert - what the air doesn't blow out, the grease will catch
- Possibly also use a small die grinder (with the air flow) to remove what the drill can't)
- Remove the helicoil
- Re-tap for helicoil
- Replace helicoil
- Borescope cylinder and re-clean
- Install new adapter or Autolite 386/388 plugs that fit an 18mm tapped spark plug hole (at least for the short reach heads - for the long reach heads (3 out of 4 cylinders - don't ask) I'll need adapters and 12mm long reach plugs
While the EI systems were installed in the early 90's, the cylinders were re-done in a MOH in 2002 and have about 1035 hours on them. They look good in a borescope and there's no need to pull them to do anything (AFAICT).I will report back on how this goes (although it may not happen until mid-April).
Thanks for all the suggestions!-- -
On second thoughts not sure how you would limit the current flow locally.Maybe not such a good idea
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Marc,If you have a good tig welder person near you you could consider running a bead in the adapter hole. Once it cools it should be loose in the hole. I am not sure how much wall you have available. Might be a good idea to do a test to dial in parameters.Hennie
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Mark If you can get the opposite plug out. run a vacuum line in there and try to place it where the chips will fall. you will at least get most of them.Al
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Folks:Once again, tapping into the hive mind of folks that know Lycoming engines.I've got a Velocity with an IO-360 200 HP engine that's got two LSE Plasma II ignitions that were installed approximately 30 years ago. Apparently, at least SOME of the spark plug adapters are the original steel ones that LSE made back in the old days.And a few of them have decided that they're not interested in coming out of the spark plug holes, but would rather commit suicide:
which this one has done and which at least one more is going to do if I try to torque it out.I've tried soaking them in Aero-Kroil (which in the past, has loosened stuff that looked to be welded together) and also tried a square screw extractor, at the suggestion of my engine guy (Juan, at Exodus at KWJF). No joy - all the extractor does is shave off the threads. Juan thought that in order to get these out, we'd have to pull the jugs so that any crap that fell into the cylinder from drilling/whatever could be cleaned out. Removing the jugs on this Velocity requires removing the wings.If I didn't care about crap falling in the cylinders, I'd drill out the adapter, pull out the helicoil, re-tap and install a new helicoil. But I do care (at least I THINK I do).I'm trying to minimize the work, time and cost to the customer, to determine if I can remove the adapters in place without destroying the cylinder.Has anyone done this before, and if so, how? Or if not, do you have any suggestions on how we might go about doing this in the least intrusive manner?Thanks.-- -
Correction EuroCAFE 540 (kms around Denmark.)
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When building your plane or even modifying it, it is ultimately up to you to decide your priorities and the trades-off involved.
In building my Eze I tried to make as efficient a Vari Eze as I could from Burt's original model.
When it came to the cowl attachments I purchased a set of Camlocs.
However, I could make only one decision on checking the weight of these Camlocs, to be at the sensitive end of my Vari - they are still on the shelf !
I use the 10/32 ss torque screws (better than the cross heads) and just resign myself to the task whenever a cowl has to be removed.
Whether I succeeded or not is up for question.
Mike T VE O-235 G-EMMY, last EuroCAFE 450 winner.
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This AD thing is a bit convoluted, so for those of you who don't know what DRS is, it means Dynamic Regulatory System. The SocialFlight website seems to have buried that presentation Marc mentioned below so here's the shortcut course:Go to this website: https://drs.faa.gov/browse/ADFRAWD/doctypeDetailsType in your search criteria. In the screenshot below, I'm looking for stuff on a Lycoming O-360-a1a. Click apply and proceed to be bored to death.Izzy
(603)410-7277On Monday, May 29, 2023 at 01:34:54 PM EDT, Marc J. Zeitlin <marc_zeitlin@...> wrote:Folks:In my work, I generally only see planes owned by people who did NOT build their aircraft. Very few (if any) builders/owners have someone other than themselves do the Condition Inspections, since they almost always have the Repairmans Certificate for their plane. We've discussed ADs before, maybe a couple of times, but I thought I'd reiterate some things.At some point, I see the plane if it's been sold either in a Pre-Buy or Condition Inspection, and one of the things I note is that almost NO ONE keeps track of Airworthiness Directives that may be applicable to their aircraft. Since there are never ADs on COZY (or Long-EZ, or Varieze, etc.) airframes, the things that COULD have ADs issued against them are the Engine and Appliances (magnetos, carburetors, certificated FI systems, certificated navigation systems, etc.). If you happen to have a certificated C/S propeller on your plane, there might be ADs against that, but very few canards (other than Velocities) do.Now, there is some disagreement as to how and when ADs might legally apply to things on an E-AB aircraft, but if there's a safety issue, whether you're legally required to comply with an AD is meaningless - an experimental engine can have a crankshaft break, with the same consequences, as a TCd aircraft. And you should know if this (or whatever the AD references) is something that could occur.So we should ALL be checking ADs each year at our CIs and we should be signed up with the FAA to get notifications when an AD is issued for something we own. If you go here:You can create an account and sign up to get emails regarding new ADs for your particular items - engine, appliances, whatever. Do so.This:is where you search for ADs that might exist on your stuff.This site:has a Wings seminar on DRS usage and AD documentation - you have to register, but it's free, and the seminar is near the top. You can ignore information that's only applicable to TCd aircraft, but the basic idea is still the same.Generally, after the FIRST search and list creation with a disposition for each AD (which can take a while - figure 2 - 6 hours total), the amount of time and effort this takes each year at the CI is minimal - less than an hour, as most items will have ADs issued against them on very rare occasions. I find that the hardest part of this procedure is finding the engine cylinder and crankshaft P/Ns and S/Ns, so try to make sure that you have that information documented in your logbooks, and if you get the engine overhauled, that the shop gives you all relevant information for the engine.I've been telling my customers that I will not sign off Condition Inspections unless and until they've verified the AD status of their engine/appliances - for a long time, I just left it up to the customer to decide whether to even search for ADs, but I'm getting to be more of a hard-ass about this - we can certainly choose not to comply with an AD if it doesn't explicitly apply to E-AB aircraft, but if you don't know that the AD exists or MIGHT apply, then you cannot make an informed decision.My $0.02. -
We have done tons of these. The old school Piper Aztec cowlings were a nightmare: it took nearly a full day to remove all the components and screws;After installing camlocs, I can do BOTH engines, by myself, in about 10 minutes. Granted, it costs several hundred dollars, but it is WELL worth it.Doing a cowling on a canard will have some special considerations with the interface to the fuselage and wings, but pre-planning to install the camlocswill allow you to do it practically. I have not installed them on my Varieze yet, but I will leave some of the 'screws' 'un-captured' by the inner retainers,because in my application, I cannot lift one flange from the other, so I will just pull the outer screw fittings out, which will allow the two flanges to slide.Our process with the Piper cowlings, was to tape in place, support and angle and position as necessary, place a few clecos in 1/8" holes strategically,and then lay out the placement using a ruler and dividers, and place location marks on the tape. Once satisfied no further adjustments were needed,finish drilling 1/8" 'match' holes at each location, in a logical order. In our instance, we would do the rear top of the cowling to the turtledeck to providea fixed rigid reference as a mounting foundation. Then drill out the larger inner hole camloc root receptacle and the rivet holes and install. Then theouter cowling surface, with intermediate size holes to verify the location of the outer hardware relative to the now mounted receptacles.We initially were concerned about the rigidity of the cantilevered cowling structure, and tested it with weights at the spinner end, culminating in meactually standing with my full weight just behind the spinner with less than a 1/10 of an inch deflection. I am including photos for an initial fitting beforemarking, with just the top rear of the cowling fastened and camloc locations roughly overlaid, and a single cleco (red ring) left and right in the front; note the milk crate providing support (along withthe baffles with padding on the inside). The next pic is of the final camloc installation before painting. Personally, I HIGHLY recommend using thePhillips head version, just saying. Another note is the glass laminate varies in thickness at every location, so a different dash number for the outerpin length will be required at each location, so don't just go out and buy a bunch, because typically you will need a specific length at various locations.Also, I have an exploded view I did of the components in SolidWorks. You can use these for a front hatch, also.I realize these are not canard pics, but the installation will be the same.Happy Cowling.-Christian(My first send try failed, this is try #2, apologies if you get it twice)-- www.BrilliantDesignOnline.com
Solidworks Design & CNC Plasma Cutting
-a division of-
www.AlpineWorldwide.com
"We build ideas.."
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Good Morning MarcIf the items are still available, I will take them!Let me know if/how to forward paymentRoss
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Folks:In a fit of purchasing while waiting for my new engine to arrive last spring, I bought a:and some expensive hose with which to connect it to my oil separator. As it turns out, my new engine neither uses nor spits oil and also, given my configuration, mounting this thing to the exhaust would be problematic - it would interfere with the cowlSo, I'm going to sell it - it's brand new, in the box, never installed, as is the hose.These things work pretty well at reducing crankcase pressure and slowing if not eliminating oil blowing out of the breather. The only thing you need to be aware of with them is that you must remove and check the valve every 50 hours or so to remove coking buildup (if it occurs), which can block airflow and cause overpressure of the crankcase. But if you do this maintenance, they work very well.The kit was $169 and the hose was $99. I'll let both go for $175 plus shipping.Let me know if you're interested - first come, first served.--
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Folks:Thanks to Mike Beasley, the latest version of the COBA Magazine (nee' CSA Newsletter) is posted at:under "Newsletters/Literature".Happy perusing.--
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Folks:Tim Fisher (Columbia Fly-In organizer) has asked me to forward this around to the mailing lists.If you are anywhere west of the Mississippi, you shouldn't miss this canard fly-in at O22 on May 31st - June 2nd. We generally have between 25 - 35 canard aircraft show up, with presentations and a dinner on Saturday night. Rides and aircraft review available for newbies and builders (usually).If you have something you'd like to present, please get in touch with Tim at:The Fly-In website (which hasn't been updated for 2024 yet) is available at:--Tentative presentations currently include:
- Marc Zeitlin - EGP Nose Gear Retract System
- Joe Person / Gary Hertzler - prop construction/repair
- TBD!!!
If you have a suggestion for a presentation, or would like to give one, contact Tim at the email address above.See you all there! -
Another experience, I recently shipped a small package, 4 oz, from Pennsylvania to New Zealand. $13-$14, while USPS wanted maybe $40. Easyship produced a shipping label I could print and then just drop the package at the local post office.
Apparently UPS and such are making a killing off the casual shipper. -
OK guys...
First... Thank y'all ( a TEXAS word) for taking the time to send me your suggestions. Over all winner for thinking outside the box was Mike suggesting using a golf bag on the airlines ( I was going out to LAX anyway)...
Here is a favorable report on shipping using PIRATESHIP.COM
A few things I learned shipping the prop. Go to the below website and they will show you a walk-thru on how to fill the form out and answer any questions. Its a std form that UPS uses and very easy to do. Check the box labeled extra items if you want extra insurance. You only get 100 bucks base... the charges for extra are below........
Here's the breakdown of how much extra insurance costs on Pirate Ship:
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Domestic Shipments: $0.75 for up to $50, then $0.80 per $100
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International Shipments: $1.35 per $100
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Limit: $5,000 per shipment
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Limit is $400 for USPS First Class Package International and Simple Export Rate
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If you have your package ready to go at the UPS counter you cannot buy insurance from UPS unless UPS changes the label to reflect the added insurance. And I don't have any idea what the package would then cost to ship with them making a new label....and you have already paid Pirateship for the existing label on the package.
Pirateship.com will issue a new label if you decide to change something after you have paid and received your shipping label.. they seem to want you their customer to be happy.
You will have to joint their membership and receive and account (no cost to join) in order to use their services.
Basically you are using UPS to ship with. SO... Walk in with your package, they scan it, and your done.
They offer all kinds of shipping , one day , 3 day, normal ship times (for me about a week for TX to CALIF) international, United States Postal Service (for $75.33).... etc
In my opinion, Pirate has an easy and intuitive web page to use and you save BIG bucks ! For instance my cost was 48 bucks to ship the prop from TX To CALIF.
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First thing you do, cover the wood with cardboard.
That $400 does sound excessive, but, shipping is shirly crazy these days.
I'm assuming you'd just doing ground, no 1-day or 2-day stuff. -
I've had good luck shipping by Greyhound bus. It's unbelievably inexpensive. I had a Corvette (BIG) hood shipped to me protected with bubble wrap and cardboard. It showed up unscathed. It's on my Corvette right now.
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I used UPS but constructed a cardboard box. I think it was something like $150. Can’t remember exactly where it went, but it wasn’t close - Florida maybe.
Cm -
All
What's every one using to ship a two bladed prop in a wooden box nowdays?
Its been a while since I shipped one and I'm finding outrageous rates ... Like 400 bucks from TX to Calif. Last time I shipped (years ago) it was 50 bucks. Greyhound no longer accepts shipping..
Vance Atkinson -
Folks:Nate Mullins wrote this regarding the NG-2B "Foot" (and his NG-15X for COZY MKIVs) installation and gave me permission to post it:My first hands-on installation of the new Cozy MKIV fork, NG15X and Marc Zeitlin’s new NG-2B couldn’t have been easier. William Richardson’s Cozy MKIV has several upgraded features, so the new fork setup compliments the entire build. The fit and finish of all 3 parts mated to the strut perfectly. Anyone can do this swap in a couple hours to include the flox bed. I have to give my highest compliments to Marc for the excellent workmanship of the new NG-2B and its re-design which allows for a full 360deg rotation. I’m sure his new nose lift system will be nothing less than superb.-Nate323 Composites LLCHere's a closeup of the NG-2B:The newer ones are sand-blasted, so will look even nicer.And I have to return the favor with respect to the NG-15X and MKNG-15X that 3:23 Composites sells for Variezes, Long-EZs, COZY IIIs and COZY MKIVs (as well as Berkuts, etc.). They're beautiful and excellent quality, as you can see in this pic of the assembly on WR's plane:I've installed one each (Long-EZ and COZY MKIV) and they're both well made and beautiful.--
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--Folks:Some of you may have missed the first announcement and request for interest regarding a new Nose Gear Retraction/Extension System, as well as a number of parts for nose gear struts and components.This will be the last call for commitments before I lock down the number of units to be produced. While I have gotten commitments from 25 folks, there may be more of you who might be interested in one or more of the new Nose Gear parts and systems that will be available in the relatively near future.In order to provide final price and delivery information, I'll need to know exactly who wants which parts/systems.A full description of the parts and systems, with TENTATIVE pricing and links to all installation instructions, is available at:Please indicate, using the list below, which of the parts/systems you will purchase.
- NG-2B
- MKNG-2B
- NG-3AA / NG-4AA
- NG-6B/7B w/5B
- MKNG-6B/7B w/5B
- EZNoselift Clamp System
- EGP System
(including all required mechanical mounting components, including NG-3B/4B)
Once I've got all the responses and I can determine final costing (prices will be NO HIGHER than those shown on the web page, before shipping and handling), I will let everyone know the expected price / delivery and will require payment of the final purchase price (refundable only if your requested parts are not delivered) prior to my placing the vendor orders. I expect that all orders will be filled prior to July 1, 2024, but that will depend on how quickly folks respond and on the lead times for the electric actuator (currently running 14 weeks).I would greatly appreciate a commitment before Monday, March 4th, 2024 so we can get this moving - I hope to start placing orders on Tuesday, March 5th, 2024.Please respond directly to me (not to this whole list) via email, indicating which of the seven items in the list above you would like to purchase, and indicate that you're willing to pay up to the prices shown on the web page (might be less, but no guarantees) up front.Thanks. -
If it were me. I'd procure a small wheeled dolly from harbor freight. Lift the wing high enough to get the blown tire on to the dolly. Then push or pull (your choice ) the airplane back to the hangar.A small mechanics " crawler" might do the trick too.But whatever you use, it must be strong enough to support 550-600 lbs
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Hey EZ drivers !!!question :Is it easier to push an EZ from behind, or pull the canard back to the hangar with a blown main tire ?Asking for a friend !! : )GM
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Folks:I was asked what the new EGP Nose Gear System weighs, in comparison to the other systems.I weighed an original EZNoselift that I had removed from my aircraft, WITH the EZNoselift Clamp system installed along with the standard aluminum side plates. The weight was 11.0 lb, +/- 0.5 lb.The EGP Nose Gear System, with the actuator, mounting block and pins, along with the aluminum side plates, weighed 12.0 lb +/- 0.5 lb.So, it weighs 1 lb. more than the OLD EZNoselift system, which is no longer available. The new EZNoselift system apparently weighs substantially more from what I've been told, although I do not have one in hand to weigh - maybe someone who's got one can report on the weight. I also do not know the weight of the Wright system.--
Canard transport
in Canard Aviators Mailing List (read-only)
Posted
Does someone have the contact for the person with the trailer setup to transport a canard aircraft? There’s a Cozy that needs to move from Texas to Oregon. Appreciate the help.
David Kissick
Cozy Mark IV
http://www.cozyserenity.net
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